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Old 02-19-2012, 18:53   #1
3/4Flap
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Want Your Ejection Problems Solved? Listen to Dave.

DaveKnowlin's fix may be The Fix.

I just did it and then ran out the back door and fired 4 rounds into the dirst right-handed. All 4 empties went straight out to the right.

Gotta shoot some more, but this looks promising.
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Old 02-19-2012, 18:56   #2
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details?
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Old 03-02-2012, 18:57   #3
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details?
Man, just reading what you have..nice arsenal
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:38   #4
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waiting on the Apex extractors...
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Old 03-03-2012, 07:58   #5
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I went home last night and detail stripped my slide. My extractor is tight in the slide (I had to pry it out), and has wear marks at certain contact points. The last time I shot, a few cases smacked me in the face, so I'm going to do some stoning/polishing and see if it helps.
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:11   #6
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Just curious, but was the extractor and cut also loaded with crud when you got it out?

I noticed on mine that Ive removed, there was a lot of junk in the cut and around the extractor, even though I try to blast it out now and then while cleaning with air and/or Gun Scrubber.

I wonder if that doenst also contribute to the problem, especially if the fit is tight to start with.
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Old 02-19-2012, 19:08   #7
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OP said he would explain, so opened...
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Old 02-19-2012, 19:39   #8
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Are you talking about ejections in a G30? http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/show...57&postcount=6

Last edited by bentbiker; 02-19-2012 at 19:40..
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Old 02-19-2012, 19:42   #9
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Referenced here;

http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1402918

The fix involves removal of the extractor and reduction of the step that limits extractor travel inward, allowing the extractor to swing inward and maintain tension on the case for what must be just a micro-second of extra time, which effects ejection.

The jury is not back in yet on my pistol but initial examination of the ejection pattern of the 4 RWS rounds I fired into the dirt outside the house was dramatically different than previously; all went straight out to the side. This from a gun that is increasingly tossing them all over...including at my face.

Maybe a good gun to experiment on as Glock told me they have experienced some issues with "L" barrels in regular G17's like mine, whereby they encourage stouter loads to insure adequate ejection. So far I have never experienced a JAM in this pistol, but the degrading of ejection PATTERN has me annoyed. I might make a jaunto the range tomorrow and shoot it some more. wife bought me some WWB 115 yesterday when she made the trip to the Big City for supplies so we'll see what that junk does.

I hope Dave weighs in, also.
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Old 02-19-2012, 19:44   #10
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Seems like the more expensive "high end" pistols just make my old G17 seem so much better..
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Old 02-19-2012, 19:50   #11
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PS: I used a couple jeweler's files and a hard stone.

ENTIRELY what I did was;

1} Cleaned up the extractor claw a bit to allow better bite of the case.
2} Polished both sides of the extractor.
3} Took some material off the shoulder/step whatever you call it. Don't ask how much. Due to the angles it was not easy to gauge the start dimension with my calipers. I aimed at Dave's nominal .005". I know I took some material off. Not alot.

Now, since the Glock extractor acts in the same way as a Mauser 98 extractor more-or-less, you want to make sure the radius of the cartridge case head does not but against the bottom of the presented extractor during feeding. Should ride up nicely UNDER the extractor as the round rises.
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Old 02-19-2012, 19:54   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3/4Flap View Post
PS: I used a couple jeweler's files and a hard stone.

ENTIRELY what I did was;

1} Cleaned up the extractor claw a bit to allow better bite of the case.
2} Polished both sides of the extractor.
3} Took some material off the shoulder/step whatever you call it. Don't ask how much. Due to the angles it was not easy to gauge the start dimension with my calipers. I aimed at Dave's nominal .005". I know I took some material off. Not alot.

Now, since the Glock extractor acts in the same way as a Mauser 98 extractor more-or-less, you want to make sure the radius of the cartridge case head does not but against the bottom of the presented extractor during feeding. Should ride up nicely UNDER the extractor as the round rises.
I thought you just exchanged it for a Walther PPQ...just kidding

Last edited by NucPhysics; 02-19-2012 at 20:02..
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Old 02-19-2012, 20:06   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3/4Flap View Post
PS: I used a couple jeweler's files and a hard stone.

ENTIRELY what I did was;

1} Cleaned up the extractor claw a bit to allow better bite of the case.
2} Polished both sides of the extractor.
3} Took some material off the shoulder/step whatever you call it. Don't ask how much. Due to the angles it was not easy to gauge the start dimension with my calipers. I aimed at Dave's nominal .005". I know I took some material off. Not alot.

Now, since the Glock extractor acts in the same way as a Mauser 98 extractor more-or-less, you want to make sure the radius of the cartridge case head does not but against the bottom of the presented extractor during feeding. Should ride up nicely UNDER the extractor as the round rises.
Sounds like a good idea. Maybe order another extractor before taking these steps...


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Old 02-19-2012, 20:43   #14
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for sure on the spare. good thing is they are el cheapo part.
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Sounds like a good idea. Maybe order another extractor before taking these steps...


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Old 02-19-2012, 20:11   #15
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Can we get some pics?
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Old 02-19-2012, 20:37   #16
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3/4 Flap, I sure wish you'd done your experiment in two stages -- first with polishing the top and bottom surfaces and then the reduction to the step that limits how far inward the extractor rotates. I say that because many people have had success by just polishing the top and bottom (and sometimes the pivot "cone"). I don't remember anyone ever touching the step, but I welcome people trying different things. As much as I would like to believe the step is an issue, since the extractors are clearly rotated out with a cartridge in the chamber vs an empty chamber, the only affect of the step is during loading, as you pointed out, and when it again touches during extraction. While the removal of .005" would theoretically allow pressure for some extra time, I would think it to be way less than minuscule. I'd be very suspicious that your success, if it continues, is the result of freeing up the extractor by polishing the two surfaces, and cleaning up the claw.

Please keep us up to date on your further testing. I could well be following in your footsteps in the next few days.

Last edited by bentbiker; 02-19-2012 at 20:39..
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:27   #17
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3/4 Flap, I sure wish you'd done your experiment in two stages -- first with polishing the top and bottom surfaces and then the reduction to the step that limits how far inward the extractor rotates. I say that because many people have had success by just polishing the top and bottom (and sometimes the pivot "cone"). I don't remember anyone ever touching the step, but I welcome people trying different things. As much as I would like to believe the step is an issue, since the extractors are clearly rotated out with a cartridge in the chamber vs an empty chamber, the only affect of the step is during loading, as you pointed out, and when it again touches during extraction. While the removal of .005" would theoretically allow pressure for some extra time, I would think it to be way less than minuscule. I'd be very suspicious that your success, if it continues, is the result of freeing up the extractor by polishing the two surfaces, and cleaning up the claw.

Please keep us up to date on your further testing. I could well be following in your footsteps in the next few days.
+1. Top and bottom polish ALONE fixed my issues.
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:31   #18
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+1. Top and bottom polish ALONE fixed my issues.
#1 is the area just be cautious of removing to much, I would suggest a light polish and then a test fire. It is not an expensive part but going to far will ruin it.
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:43   #19
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#1 is the area just be cautious of removing to much, I would suggest a light polish and then a test fire. It is not an expensive part but going to far will ruin it.
Correct.

#1.

And yes, don't go too far.

Again; tho it is tempting, and possibly correct to assumed the EXTRACTOR is to blame, its bearing surface inside the slide COULD be partly or wholly involved. Mod to the extractor is of course preferable to possibly ruining the frame.

It's just that there is so much we don't know about actual Glock manufacturing processes that we must work to some degree in the dark.

I also like Dave's idea of an increased-strength extractor spring. I do not see much downside to this and do see how it could help.

I also see no worldly need for the complex part that the Glock extractor is. I just don't get it. The thing looks completely over-engineered to me. It totally lacks intuitive "simplicity" that the Glock basically exhibits.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:49   #20
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Just finished my 19 and took it into our back yard to shoot 5 quick rounds. According to my Wife, all 5 cases were in about the same consistent line to the right side. I'm Happy. No more embarrassment at the Range because I would get my football helment and gogles out. Now off to my 27. Thanks for the info!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Last edited by jw38; 02-20-2012 at 11:50..
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