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So, I love my G35's trigger. To my knowledge the only differences between my G35 and G21sf triggers were the minus connector. I bought the "Glock" minus connector, through it in and...yuck! Lots of creep nothing like my g35. What gives???
So, I love my G35's trigger. To my knowledge the only differences between my G35 and G21sf triggers were the minus connector. I bought the "Glock" minus connector, through it in and...yuck! Lots of creep nothing like my g35. What gives???
-Toyz
Did you ask the Glock Certified Armorer who installed it for you to check it? Maybe he/she installed it wrong.
So, I love my G35's trigger. To my knowledge the only differences between my G35 and G21sf triggers were the minus connector. I bought the "Glock" minus connector, through it in and...yuck! Lots of creep nothing like my g35. What gives???
-Toyz
Not so.
I did not buy an SF version of the 21 when I got my last one (3rd for me)... because every G21sf I ever tried in stores had a much heavier pull than a standard G21. Instead, I got a regular 21 & did a grip reduction.
I had believed it was because the connector was rocked backward some when the trigger housing was reworked for the SF models. An armorer at a GSSF match told me that was not true. I do not know the reason for sure (I have not had a G21sf to study), but the pull is definitely harder. Others agree with me on this.
So, it follows that the minus connector in a G21sf would not result in the same pull as a G34.
If the break weight is OK, but creep is the main problem... check to see if the slot in the G21sf trigger housing is loose & allows the connector to "wiggle" (front to rear of the pistol). I had that problem with one housing recently. That delays the break point after contact of the trigger bar with the connector.
Did you ask the Glock Certified Armorer who installed it for you to check it? Maybe he/she installed it wrong.
Where in his post did you get that idea?
Or is that your way of saying only an armorer should do any work on a Glock.
Anyone can change parts on a Glock. It doesn't take any training or anything special to change parts on a Glock.
I put a minus connector in my 21SF and didn't like it either. I put the factory connector back in.
All that without an armorer. How about that?
Where in his post did you get that idea?
Or is that your way of saying only an armorer should do any work on a Glock.
Anyone can change parts on a Glock. It doesn't take any training or anything special to change parts on a Glock.
I put a minus connector in my 21SF and didn't like it either. I put the factory connector back in.
All that without an armorer. How about that?
Yes. ANYONE can do it. But, it seems he perceived he MIGHT have a problem. The problem MIGHT have been incorrect installation.....
I support the TRAINED, CERTIFIED people doing ALL work beyond what Glock says is okay in their manuals.
Since he ASSUMED the - connector is the only difference, and he ASSUMED WRONG, it have been a good idea to go to an Armorer. His problem? I'm not sure Glock would APPROVE an Armorer making that particular change. IIRC, if he ever sends it in to Glock for servicing or an update, Glock wil lremove the non-stock parts and return it to factory original before he gets it back. Glock considers the - connector to ONLY be factory original IF the firearm left the factory with it. To get a - connector through channels, a Glock Certified Armorer {IIRC} needs to let Glock know the the SPECIFIC firearm it is for. They check it against their database.
GCAs can confirm or deny if I recall correctly.....
Something worth checking out: The difference in the grip between the 21SF and the conventional 35 frame can make the hand locate differently on the grip, which would make a difference in the positioning of the trigger finger reach/angle/position/etc. Therefore, the difference in trigger "feel" between the two setups may be a difference in how the finger/hand/arm muscles are perceiving the movement of the finger when pulling the trigger. Minor ergonomic changes can make a large difference in the "feel" of a mechanism.
I tried the glock - connector in my first 21SF and it was nasty feeling. Went with the 3.5# ghost connector and the stock springs result is a crisp smooth trigger pull that breaks at 4#'s. I have the same connector in all 8 of my SF's all are identical in "feel". No, did not have a "armorer" install any of them. I don't allow any other person other than a manufacturer "warranty" touch any of my weapons.
Have seen "Certified Glock Armorers" that may have passed the course that obviously know nothing about handleing or useing firearms. Most are also a-hole's to non-Glock owns that "bother" them.
I agree, it only goes in one way. It may not feel the way he wants it too but I would be willing it is installed correctly.
He could have gotten a "bad part" or maybe it was not lubed.
I prefer the Ghost 3.5# connector, it seems a more smooth and crisp than the Glock - connector
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I'm your huckleberry............
Yes. ANYONE can do it. But, it seems he perceived he MIGHT have a problem. The problem MIGHT have been incorrect installation.....
I support the TRAINED, CERTIFIED people doing ALL work beyond what Glock says is okay in their manuals.
Since he ASSUMED the - connector is the only difference, and he ASSUMED WRONG, it have been a good idea to go to an Armorer. His problem? I'm not sure Glock would APPROVE an Armorer making that particular change. IIRC, if he ever sends it in to Glock for servicing or an update, Glock wil lremove the non-stock parts and return it to factory original before he gets it back. Glock considers the - connector to ONLY be factory original IF the firearm left the factory with it. To get a - connector through channels, a Glock Certified Armorer {IIRC} needs to let Glock know the the SPECIFIC firearm it is for. They check it against their database.
GCAs can confirm or deny if I recall correctly.....
I tend to agree, Scott... as a GCA, the minus connector is not listed as available on the spare parts order for unless its for Law Enforcement... that alone tells me that Glock doesn't want the minus connector out there...
I tend to agree, Scott... as a GCA, the minus connector is not listed as available on the spare parts order for unless its for Law Enforcement... that alone tells me that Glock doesn't want the minus connector out there...
Wow,.......if Glock does not "want that part out there" they sure do manufacture
and sell a BUTT LOAD of them to parts distributors!
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I'm your huckleberry............
Ahh, but Glock Inc., of Smyrna, GA does not sell them to vendors. Vendors must buy them on the black market. That is why factory "-" connectors cost so much. Glock Inc., of Smryna, GA does not sell them to anyone, and that is because of liability issues.
Ahh, but Glock Inc., of Smyrna, GA does not sell them to vendors. Vendors must buy them on the black market. That is why factory "-" connectors cost so much. Glock Inc., of Smryna, GA does not sell them to anyone, and that is because of liability issues.
Holy cow,.......I've never heard that before. But is does make sense,......
You always seem to have the "inside information"
Thanks DannyR!
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I'm your huckleberry............
Don't shoot the messenger, I'm just telling you want the parts order form says... "LE Agencies Only".
I'm constantly perplexed by the number of people who have issues with their Glocks after modifying them in a way that Glock does not recommend.
Not "shooting the messenger"
Simply stated that it's hard to believe that if Glock does not
want these parts released, they sure do make a bunch of them.
You can get them from nearly every parts distributor.
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I'm your huckleberry............
Yes, but try to buy one from Glock. You have to prove to them that it is to replace a damaged or faulty "-" connector in a pistol that was factory fitted with it--G17L, G24, G24C, G34, G35. Have you ever seen a damaged/faulty connector? Earliest G17L's had the old, black connectors that were subject to corrosion. You had to furnish the serial number to Glock to get a replacement, and Glock keeps track.
If you have a pistol other than a G17L, G24, G24C, G34 or G35 worked on by a factory armorer and it has a "-" connector in it, it will be removed and returned to you, regardless of whether it is factory or aftermarket.
I just installed a Glock 3.5 connector in my 31. I put the gun back together and tried it and wasn't impressed so I tore the gun apart and started to to a .25 cent trigger job on it , when I came to the connector I noticed a small bump on the slanted part so i stoned it level, polished it and put the gun back together. The trigger is noticeably better now.
Yes it is installed correctly. No it was not modified.
For the sake of being clear I'm going to refer to the trigger as a 2 stage (yes I know, some may argue that its striker fire, but… I’m going to refer to the trigger as having a 1st stage, a 2nd stage and a break)
It does break cleanly.
Its length of the 2nd stage, its noticeably longer than the 35.
AND the 2nd stage is very uneven/unsmooth.
I'll definitely check for unevenness or bumps in the connector.
I'll also take a look at the slot in the trigger housing, good idea.
There's got to be more different than just the connector. The connector alone doesnt seem to explain the longer 2nd stage pull.
My OCD won’t let me buy a non GLOCK part, interesting about the Ghost connector though. I became a GLOCK "believer" (at one time I was that "guy" making fun of the Tupperware) because they are extremely reliable, fairly accurate guns from the factory. So much so in fact that I replaced a Walther P99 and Sig 229 with a 22 for IDPA… Yes I understand the minus connector isn’t "stock" on the 21 but "it’s still a factory GLOCK part". Does that make sense??? It’s the OCD talking….
I just sold a 22 and have a 35 and the 21sf. I believe the only one I’m missing is the 34 at this point. I’m truly impressed with the 34/35 trigger!! I gotta make this work!
I did not buy an SF version of the 21 when I got my last one (3rd for me)... because every G21sf I ever tried in stores had a much heavier pull than a standard G21. Instead, I got a regular 21 & did a grip reduction.
I had believed it was because the connector was rocked backward some when the trigger housing was reworked for the SF models. An armorer at a GSSF match told me that was not true. I do not know the reason for sure (I have not had a G21sf to study), but the pull is definitely harder. Others agree with me on this.
So, it follows that the minus connector in a G21sf would not result in the same pull as a G34.
If the break weight is OK, but creep is the main problem... check to see if the slot in the G21sf trigger housing is loose & allows the connector to "wiggle" (front to rear of the pistol). I had that problem with one housing recently. That delays the break point after contact of the trigger bar with the connector.
I don't know about the regular Glock 21 trigger since I never really tired one. (The regular G21 is too big for my hands!) However, My 21SF did have a rather heavy trigger when I purchased it. I did a little stoning and polishing and it smoothed the trigger considerably. It didn't really lighten the trigger as much as it smoothed it out, which is what I was after anyhow. But I agree that the G21 trigger is heavier than the other Glock stock triggers that I have been used to.
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If it's not the TRUTH, it is just another WRONG opinion.
It CAN'T be installed wrong, if installed in the wrong direction, 
Linear Mode
