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12-08-2009, 16:02
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#1
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FYPM
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Crossroads of America
Posts: 5,471
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Inspection tips for buying used Glock
In the near future, I will be looking at my first potential purchase of a used Glock (I've always bought new) and I'm curious as to what you would specifically look for when inspecting used Glocks (or any gun for that matter) prior to purchase. I will probably not have a chance to shoot this gun before making my decision. My checklist currently includes:
1. Visual inspection of exterior for damage, scars, wear.
2. Dry fire for function.
3. Load mags for function.
4. Cycle loaded mag through gun by racking slide.
5. Field strip
6. Inspect internals for cleanliness, wear.
7. Check documentation of test fire date, S/N, matching numbers
8. Check for aftermarket internals.
Your suggestions to add to this list will be appreciated.
__________________
G17, G26, G30SF, Gen4 G23
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither safety nor liberty." Ben Franklin
Last edited by beforeobamabans; 12-08-2009 at 17:57..
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12-08-2009, 16:57
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#2
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Member Me
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: kennesaw GA.
Posts: 9,086
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Make sure all the numbers match ...
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12-08-2009, 17:00
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Maine
Posts: 1,222
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check for aftermarket internals, such as firing pin and connector.
Most used glocks will be a little dirty. the only time i have been bitten is with aftermarked parts..but the gun DID shoot fine for about 8k rounds before becoming a problem.
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12-08-2009, 17:55
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#4
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FYPM
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Crossroads of America
Posts: 5,471
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Thanks. The gun I'm going to be looking at is an early gen G30 (no rail). The seller also bought this gun used, claims to have only put 50 rds thru and hasn't been able to provide any prior history. He does have the original case and mags. I have a Jan '09 G30SF, so I feel pretty comfortable working the gun and taking it apart. I am very curious to get a look at the trigger bar after all the furor over scratched bars and related slide interference problems on recent vintage G30SFs. The seller is asking $350 which I view as fair. It will be an interesting exercise for me and hopefully that reknown Glock reliability will carry me through anything I overlook.
SCC and Maine: OP updated to include your suggestions. Thanks.
__________________
G17, G26, G30SF, Gen4 G23
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither safety nor liberty." Ben Franklin
Last edited by beforeobamabans; 12-08-2009 at 17:58..
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12-08-2009, 18:18
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#5
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Member Me
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: kennesaw GA.
Posts: 9,086
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Find a gssf near you and they will go over it and replace any parts that need to be replaced for you for free ....
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12-08-2009, 18:27
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#6
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CLM Number 245
Charter Lifetime Member
Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 6,396
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As long as the frame, barrel and slide are not cracked or otherwise damaged, you will be fine. I know a guy who went to a GSSF match with a Glock he got taken on used that had no trigger guts or housing, just a paperclip holding the trigger in place. Armorer put ALL new parts in and sent him off to shoot the match.
Look for hogged out pin holes in the frame. I press them out and put them back to make sure everything is correct. Dirty does not matter much to me, means they are not trying to cover somehting up (usually) and shot it. Run your pinched fingers down the barrel feeling for bulges, and then look for any rings or pitting IN the barrel. Make sure the extractor is not broken (if it is, bargain the price down and still get it). I don't care a bit about hand cycling rounds, gives no indication of proper function, so shoot it if you can meet seller at the range.
__________________
Good Shooting, MarkCO
.40 S&W Club #1, 1911 Club #1067
NRA Life Member and Certified Instructor
www.CarbonArms.us
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12-08-2009, 18:28
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#7
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GT Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 207
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In before the explosion jokes :P
In all seriousness though that list you compiled is good, except #4 might make some gun store workers nervous, or might not even be allowed for liability reasons
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12-08-2009, 22:16
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NEAR GREENWOOD, IN. 46217
Posts: 545
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Check the breach face. If it has a inward dimple around the firing pin hole, this will indicate the pistol has been shot alot, maybe with hot hand loads.
OVERTHEHILLGUY
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12-09-2009, 05:42
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#9
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-----
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: SE Colorado
Posts: 8,453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkCO
As long as the frame, barrel and slide are not cracked or otherwise damaged, you will be fine. I know a guy who went to a GSSF match with a Glock he got taken on used that had no trigger guts or housing, just a paperclip holding the trigger in place. Armorer put ALL new parts in and sent him off to shoot the match.
Look for hogged out pin holes in the frame. I press them out and put them back to make sure everything is correct. Dirty does not matter much to me, means they are not trying to cover somehting up (usually) and shot it. Run your pinched fingers down the barrel feeling for bulges, and then look for any rings or pitting IN the barrel. Make sure the extractor is not broken (if it is, bargain the price down and still get it). I don't care a bit about hand cycling rounds, gives no indication of proper function, so shoot it if you can meet seller at the range.
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My philosophy. Make sure the gun isn't stolen or anything, matching serial numbers, and as long as the slide, barrel, and frame are in good condition I'll buy it, but not for more than $400 because if I have to replace internals anything over $400 I might've been better off buying a new one. The pin holes in the frame is a good suggestion, some people detail strip so often that these holes get too enlarged.
__________________
G23 G27 .40 S&W Club Member# 4520
Stay safe, stay Second Amendment!
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12-09-2009, 05:57
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Mid Atlantic
Posts: 87
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Yea, I don't know about #4. Personally, I wouldn't let a prospective buyer load a pistol (ever see Terminator?).
I dry fire the pistol, and with the trigger held back, push on the top of the chamber. If there is a lot of movement, it's pretty worn. If there is just a little, less so, but keep in mind, even the new guns will have a little play when you do this.
It's usually not hard to see if a pistol has been taken car of or not.
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12-20-2009, 11:10
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#11
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GrudgingGlocker
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wandering to and fro w/in the USA
Posts: 59
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Excellent idea for a thread. Interestingly I’ve never bought a new firearm and I have “some”.
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Although I’d probably do it if the seller allowed, I think that #4 could be an issue. I have a Sig 226 40S&W that hangs up when chambering while cycling by hand (even after polishing the feed ramp, etc.) BUT it has no issues cycling when firing or chambering via the slide release.
<o:p></o:p>
Markasaurus: in my part of CA it is rare to walk into a gunshop and not see a used Glock. In a State near me they discount them to sell them but they cannot keep revolvers on the shelves! Go figure? <o:p></o:p>
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02-17-2010, 22:19
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#12
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Rad Tupperware
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 9
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Shoot under water.  J/K!
Your list looks good. I like to Check recoil spring by aiming gun verticle (unloaded ofcourse) no magazine, pull slide back and slowly let forward to see how slide goes into full battery. Doing this with a new gun will give a good point of ref. May have to upgrade to a new style trigger bar being a 4256-1 vs. old style 4256.
Last edited by AZDUDE95; 02-17-2010 at 22:21..
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03-27-2011, 08:18
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Greenville, S.C.
Posts: 1
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Great thread. Thanks for all of info. I would feel pretty comfortable purchasing a used gun. Utilizing all of the posts, here's the current check sheet:
1. Visual inspection of exterior for damage, scars, wear.
2. Look for hogged out pin holes in the frame. Press them out and put them back to make sure everything is correct.
3. Check the breach face. If it has a inward dimple around the firing pin hole, this will indicate the pistol has been shot alot, maybe with hot hand loads.
4. Check recoil spring by aiming gun verticle (unloaded), no magazine, pull slide back and slowly let forward to see how slide goes into full battery.
5. Load mags for function.
6. Cycle loaded mag through gun by racking slide.
7. Dry fire for function. With the trigger held back, push on the top of the chamber. If there is a lot of movement, it's pretty worn. If there is just a little, less so, but keep in mind, even the new guns will have a little play when you do this.
8. Field strip
9. Inspect internals for cleanliness, wear.
10. Check for aftermarket internals.
11. Run your pinched fingers down the barrel feeling for bulges.
12. Look for any rings or pitting IN the barrel.
13. Make sure the extractor is not broken
14.Check documentation of test fire date, S/N, matching numbers
Last edited by bmwmpb; 03-27-2011 at 08:19..
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03-28-2011, 09:10
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#14
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BTF Inventor
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 5,876
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With privately owned guns, I worry about amateur gunsmithing or aftermarket parts. With LE guns, I don't worry- moderately high round count and immaculate functionally.
__________________
Did someone talk to you about that TPS report?
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04-18-2011, 03:35
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Lumberg
With privately owned guns, I worry about amateur gunsmithing or aftermarket parts. With LE guns, I don't worry- moderately high round count and immaculate functionally.
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So true....
Most LE guns may look worn to all hell, but a lot of that is just holster wear, and exposure. They undergo routine maintenance for the most part, and fired somewhat regularly to ensure functionality (and officer ability) and are usually very well taken care of.
What a difference knowing that your weapon most likely will be your lifeline in an oh S$%& situation sure does make you want to take much better care of it.
I admit, some of my weapons do not receive near the maintenance or care that my go to weapons do, but all get cleaned/checked after use.
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05-29-2011, 13:37
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 11
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All these guys know more than I about Glocks! But, I would add the cliche: "more important than the deal is the GUY in the deal" !!
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09-23-2011, 02:30
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#17
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Milwaukee, WI, USA
Posts: 51
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re: cycling through a magazine by hand
Use snap caps
__________________
Not guilty!
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10-16-2011, 11:43
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: middle ga.
Posts: 998
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Non-matching Serial #s
Glock replaced the frame on my 23 and now numbers don't match.
Just how much did this lower the value?
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11-27-2011, 11:31
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 63
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Is there a reason why you wouldn't be able to fire it?
Glock 30
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11-27-2011, 11:41
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#20
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Senior User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Columbus, Georgia
Posts: 2,565
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Or send it to GLOCK and they will check it out and replace what is needed.
__________________
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11-27-2011, 15:18
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#21
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Hilljack
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Above ground
Posts: 2,194
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One thing I learned the hard way was to check the barrel for bulges. I got a good deal on a Gen1 G17. I gave it a quick look over and bought it. Took it to the Marietta Oh GSSF match to get updated. The armorer found it had a bulged barrel. Now I know to field strip the pistol and drop the barrel back thru the muzzle end of the slide to check for bulges. Mine in particular was bulged right past the chamber, it didn't show on a normal cycle of the slide. Glock offered to replace the barrel, but I would have to send in the bulged barrel. In the end I bought a used Glock barrel and kept the original barrel.
__________________
how's that hope and change working for you?
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11-27-2011, 15:53
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,655
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Check the serial number list here on GT if you are looking to avoid a perceived issue such as late model gen 3's.
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01-10-2012, 14:29
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#23
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: fl
Posts: 7
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1)CHECK ID
Pretty much what everyone stated.
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01-21-2012, 15:53
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#24
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Lay Them Waste!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwmpb
4. Check recoil spring by... pull[ing] the slide back and slowly let forward to see how slide goes into full battery.
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When I bought my used Glock, I did this. I also did it quickly. Each time, the gun functioned just fine, including locking back on an empty magazine as it's supposed to. What I didn't realize, however, (because I wasn't familiar with how all the 'parts & pieces' should look) was that the end of the 'captured recoil spring/guide rod assy' was missing so that the spring was no longer 'captured.' While it didn't effect the gun's functioning, it was nevertheless broken... Only a quick field strip would have shown me that.
If I had known, I would have still bought the gun but I would have had a great bargaining chip with which to drive the great price I paid even lower...
I guess the saying is true-- "Knowledge is power."
__________________
"I'd rather die on my feet than live on my knees." - Emiliano Zapata
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03-14-2012, 21:15
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#25
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 44
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It's a Glock, not a Hi-Point. There is no bad Glock, some are better than others.
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:snoopy:
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