Well I took the 340 to the range again today...

Ganesh · 12-13-2009, 21:59

Shot 50 standard .38 specials, 50 .38 +P, and 50 fairly warm .357s out of her. Brought her home to clean up. All came fairly clean except up near where the steel plate is located up by the forcing cone and of course, the front of the cylinder. Any of you have good luck gettin the DLC coating cleaned up in those locations or is it just something one has to live with.

I just lived with it on the PD I had before, and never had a problem with it on my stainless models. Just wondered if that finish tended to hold fast to the carbon/scorch marks more.

All I've used on it so far is, remington 40-x bore cleaner in the barrel, hoppe's no. 9 followed next along with the hoppe's and a nylon brush on carbon/scorched surfaces. And Rem oil as a pass through for the barrel.

Finished off by wipin down the whole gun with a rag sprayed lightly with break free clp.

She looks good and clean except for thos two areas, heh. Guess Ive gotten used to my glocks, which wipe up with ease.

What do you guys use?

Berto · 12-14-2009, 17:37

On the Ti/scan guns, I stick with patches on the cylinder, nothing abrasive.

LSP972 · 12-15-2009, 16:53

Nylon brush will be okay. But if you break the integrity of that clear coat, all will go to hell in short order.

.

Chup · 12-16-2009, 05:12

I used the lead away cloths by Klean Bore and Flitz Meatal Polish on my 642. Is it the same Finish?

Berto · 12-16-2009, 18:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chup

I used the lead away cloths by Klean Bore and Flitz Meatal Polish on my 642. Is it the same Finish?

That's fine on the 642/442, they are alloy framed, but matte blued or stainless steel cylinders.
The Titainium cylindered guns have a protective coat on them as Ti is sensitive to flame/heat corrosion vs steel, and you have to be careful not to use heavy abrasives on them.

Ganesh · 12-17-2009, 22:57

Na, the M&P line of .357 J frames use the same DLC coated Scandium frames but instead of a titanium cylinder, they come with a DLC coated stainless steel cylinder. Which puts them about 2 ounces heavier than their PD brothers, but to me, I like that cuz it cuts out the "shoot no less than 120 grain bullets" warning. cuts down on my limitations. Kind of why i went with the M&P over say...a .38 airweight. I can choose any weight and two calibers.

Berto · 12-18-2009, 19:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganesh

Na, the M&P line of .357 J frames use the same DLC coated Scandium frames but instead of a titanium cylinder, they come with a DLC coated stainless steel cylinder. Which puts them about 2 ounces heavier than their PD brothers, but to me, I like that cuz it cuts out the "shoot no less than 120 grain bullets" warning. cuts down on my limitations. Kind of why i went with the M&P over say...a .38 airweight. I can choose any weight and two calibers.

Ah...that's good. I like the Ti cylinder in my 242, but definitely like steel better.

fowler · 12-24-2009, 07:42

I did not like my 3340 or the metal in the cyl. which consumes itself while you shoot it and clean it. What was SW thinking or not???

den888 · 12-27-2009, 16:49

Lead away cloths work the best.

Ganesh · 01-21-2010, 20:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by fowler

I did not like my 3340 or the metal in the cyl. which consumes itself while you shoot it and clean it. What was SW thinking or not???

Are you meanin the titanium in the PD models? If so, it was a good savings in weight. But I too would rather have a metal that takes more abuse. Kinda why i went with the M&P model.

ar15ed · 01-29-2010, 14:41

i have had a 340pd for a few years. it have determined that the front cylinder area is just gonna slowly darken up a little. i think abrasive cleaning is a no-no. it doesn't look like new any more, but man, it is still light!
good luck!
ed