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Old 02-07-2010, 00:27   #21
G-31
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Originally Posted by nraman View Post
What about bullets? I understand that there are 357Sig specific bullets that have a longer bearing surface for better neck tension.
If your talking to me I figured out that I wasn't completely inserting the cases into the die and not resizing them correctly, I figured that out when I had the same issue with some .233's. To everyone else I have bought several more books including the ABC's which I just finished so thanks for the advice. If anyone needs a laugh I put an unlubed .223 case into my resizing die and effectively destroyed the die getting it out. I'm sure I'll have more questions soon but for now thanks for the help.
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Old 02-07-2010, 01:11   #22
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Originally Posted by G-31 View Post
If your talking to me I figured out that I wasn't completely inserting the cases into the die and not resizing them correctly, I figured that out when I had the same issue with some .233's. To everyone else I have bought several more books including the ABC's which I just finished so thanks for the advice. If anyone needs a laugh I put an unlubed .223 case into my resizing die and effectively destroyed the die getting it out. I'm sure I'll have more questions soon but for now thanks for the help.
Yep, $20 for a book & reading the instructions before reloading; priceless. Maybe RCBS will give you another die if you send it back. A note, should you get the case stuck again, there are tools designed for removing it w/o damaging the die. Always best to ask questions. I know it's a guy thing, you know, we always know what we are doing & where we are going, who needs directions? Really though, in reloading ammunition, if you fail to study & follow directions, you can seriously hurt yourself, ruin equip (oh yeah, you know that) or a gun. Be safe.
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:41   #23
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If anyone needs a laugh I put an unlubed .223 case into my resizing die and effectively destroyed the die getting it out.
No need to destroy the die. There is a kit from RCBS that removes stuck cases.
I use something similar. A socket, a drill bit, a tap and some washers.
I drill and tap through the primer hole 1/4x24 I then use the socket and a 1/4x24 bolt to pull the stuck case.
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:11   #24
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Originally Posted by G-31 View Post
If your talking to me I figured out that I wasn't completely inserting the cases into the die and not resizing them correctly, I figured that out when I had the same issue with some .233's. To everyone else I have bought several more books including the ABC's which I just finished so thanks for the advice. If anyone needs a laugh I put an unlubed .223 case into my resizing die and effectively destroyed the die getting it out. I'm sure I'll have more questions soon but for now thanks for the help.
Laugh? We have all stuck a case at one time or other.
Use this for future reference.
http://ultimatereloader.com/?page_id=366
You don't need a lathe though. A 1/4 inch $10 tap and drill set from you local hardware store and a hand drill work fine. I also use a deep socket for my spacer rather than some nuts. but it will get your case out without hurting your die.

Also did you mention what press you were using?
what is your 40 load? bullet weight? powder and charge?
It is real important with the 40 to start with a medium burning powder and not to go for top pressure loads.
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Old 02-07-2010, 14:18   #25
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Thanks guys I'll get that case remover. I've got an RCBS press but at the moment I can't say what load I'm using because I live in a dorm and don't bring any of that stuff here. I have been using unique and power pistol for the handgun rounds, for .40 the bullet weights have been I think 155 and I've tried 180 too. Kind of experimenting for now but I've been staying towards the middle on pressure because this is very new to me. I do have one other question though, I see there are so many types of powder, bullets and recommendations on loads, did you guys try a bunch out when you started or did you find something that worked and stick with it? Going to shoot some right now so I'll be back tonight if I have any issues, thanks again.
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Old 02-07-2010, 15:01   #26
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Thanks guys I'll get that case remover. I've got an RCBS press but at the moment I can't say what load I'm using because I live in a dorm and don't bring any of that stuff here. I have been using unique and power pistol for the handgun rounds, for .40 the bullet weights have been I think 155 and I've tried 180 too. Kind of experimenting for now but I've been staying towards the middle on pressure because this is very new to me. I do have one other question though, I see there are so many types of powder, bullets and recommendations on loads, did you guys try a bunch out when you started or did you find something that worked and stick with it? Going to shoot some right now so I'll be back tonight if I have any issues, thanks again.
I recommend one powder & one bullet to start with. Too many vraiables & components around are an accident waiting to happen. Load the wrong powder & charge under the wrong bullet & kiss your new gun goodbye.
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Old 02-07-2010, 21:26   #27
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I recommend one powder & one bullet to start with. Too many vraiables & components around are an accident waiting to happen. Load the wrong powder & charge under the wrong bullet & kiss your new gun goodbye.
That's actually good news to me, I'm meticulous enough not switch things up but I think I'm gonna settle on the power pistol for a while. I shot about 130 rounds of .40 and 130 .357 today and all the rounds went off, I had three jams in the .40 but the .357 didn't have any issues. If anyone could provide me on some insight as to why my reloads jam I'd be very appreciative, also I've been looking at some wolf primers but am kind of skeptical cause of the price, has anyone had any experience with these? Thanks.
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Old 02-07-2010, 22:00   #28
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If anyone could provide me on some insight as to why my reloads jam I'd be very appreciative
As the final step, did you taper crimp the cartridge to remove the case mouth flare from the belling step?
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Old 02-07-2010, 22:17   #29
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As the final step, did you taper crimp the cartridge to remove the case mouth flare from the belling step?
I have been planning to reload the 357Sig just didn't get around to doing it. I bought a set of Lee dies including what I think is their "factory crimp" die. Wouldn't such a die be better?
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Old 02-07-2010, 22:34   #30
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As the final step, did you taper crimp the cartridge to remove the case mouth flare from the belling step?
No I didn't, may I ask how any jams would be caused by no crimp?
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Old 02-07-2010, 23:32   #31
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No I didn't, may I ask how any jams would be caused by no crimp?
All handgun ammo should have an appropriate crimp for reliable functioning. If you are expanding the mouth of the case, even slightly (as you should be), then you must turn that expanded mouth back straight or slightly into the bullet.
What kind of "jamb"? Failure to chamber, feed, what? Failur to chamber can be not crimping properly/adequately, or a bullet too long. Nose down jamb can be OAL too short. Nose up, OAL too long. Yes, reloading reliable, accurate ammo is a bit more comlicated than just stuffing powder & bullets together in a case.
Wolf primers will work fine. I find them a bit lrager in diameter & can cause you some seating issues. With the LP rpimers, I found them a bit hotter than CCI or Fed. So if you are running max loads, I would back off the powder charge 0.1gr to compensate.
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Old 02-07-2010, 23:52   #32
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Thank you Fred for the very helpful info, I guess my OAL was too long on those rounds.
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Old 02-08-2010, 00:16   #33
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Where is the head space for the 357Sig. The case mouth or the shoulder?
If it is the case mouth then a taper or factory crimp is needed, if it is at the shoulder, a roll crimp would be the best.
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Old 02-08-2010, 00:29   #34
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Where is the headspace for the 357Sig. The case mouth or the shoulder?
If it is the case mouth then a taper or factory crimp is needed, if it is at the shoulder, a roll crimp would be the best.
I found the answer, it headspaces at the case mouth.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.357_SIG
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Old 02-08-2010, 04:59   #35
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I found the answer, it headspaces at the case mouth.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.357_SIG
That is correct, although as Fred likes to point out, the shoulder can be used for headspacing as well.
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Old 02-08-2010, 05:40   #36
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:09   #37
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Thank you Fred for the very helpful info, I guess my OAL was too long on those rounds.
What was the overall length and how specifically did it jam?
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Old 02-08-2010, 11:53   #38
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What was the overall length and how specifically did it jam?
They should have all been the same but 2 rounds had there nose pointed up (which was the strangest thing I'd ever seen) and another didn't kick out fast enough and got caught by the slide.
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Old 02-08-2010, 13:42   #39
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I found the answer, it headspaces at the case mouth.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.357_SIG
No wiki is wrong, as was RCBS when they first came out w/ their dies. The round headspaces on the small shoulder. You could roll crimp, but most dies are setup for taper crimp & you need a cannelure exactly at the right place for proper OAL. SO taper crimp works. I've heard many 357sig reloaders having issues w/ early RCBS die sets. Lee, Hornady & especially Dillon (carbide sizer) got it correct. Here is a very good article on the relaoding of the 357sig. After you read it, it's pretty obvious where the case headspaces. http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar65.htm
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Old 02-08-2010, 14:03   #40
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Not to throw a grenade in to the whole where does 357Sig headspace discussion, but in reality it likely doesn't headspace on the shoulder or the case mouth. Like the vast majority of auto pistol cartridges, it will most likely headspace on the extractor. The extractor is what controlls the fore and aft movement of the cartridge. You can measure the headspace from the mid point on the shoulder or the case mouth to the bottom of the case.
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