[everydaycarry]

I have the opportunity to get a very good deal on a mint condition used P226 in .40 S&W. I know my Glocks up and down, but don't know much about the timeline of the SIG P226, so I have a few questions.

1) Are there any past models of the P226 that I should avoid?
2) What are the tell tale places to check the condition of a used SIG?
3) Any other things I should verify before purchase ?

The particular gun has the newer rubber wraparound grips, but does not have a light rail, so I'm not sure when it was made. It has the standard DA/SA operation with decocker.

Any help you guys give me would be greatly appreciated.

-edc

[RedTape]

Look for a date code (two letters) probably under the front of the slide. A=0 B=1 C=2 etc. That will let you know how old it is.

Is it a standard aluminum model or all stainless?

I wouldn't say there's really any past models to avoid. A lot of people complain about the newer Sigs. I prefer the old W. German models.

The main things to check on a used Sig are the rails and the barrel. If the Sig is actually in mint condition, there shouldn't be any problems.

[Glock-it-to-me]

Check with:
Tom at Top Gun Supply http://www.topgunsupply.com/
Steve at SCP Firearms http://www.scpfirearms.com/
Either of these guys will answer your questions and steer you in the right direction. I recently bought my first Glock from Steve.

[Cobra64]

Originally Posted by RedTape

Look for a date code (two letters) probably under the front of the slide. A=0 B=1 C=2 etc. That will let you know how old it is.

Not always. It depends on where the gun was produced.

My P229ST frame was manufacured in Germany but was assembled in Exeter, NH. Thus there are no proof marks or date codes.

Nor do my P220ST, P226ST, P239TT have date codes.

.

[RedTape]

True, not all of the newer ones are. Older German Sigs are typically dated as so, which makes them easy to check. I don't know how to check the newer guns without date code other than calling Sig.