Can we create a stick on good vs bad brass to reload? - Page 9

Marksman44 · 02-28-2010, 12:53

Anyone familiar with the 9mm headstamp, DAG?

Njanear · 02-28-2010, 15:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marksman44

Anyone familiar with the 9mm headstamp, DAG?

I know that DAG is a West German headstamp, but I have only seen it on 7.62x51mm cases myself.

MarcusT · 03-14-2010, 11:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marksman44

Anyone familiar with the 9mm headstamp, DAG?

Yeah I got a few of them in some range brass and the flash hole is to small to punch out the primer so they go in the scrap bucket.

I keep seeing people saying S&B is bad but I have no problems with it on my dillon 550.

Linear Thinker · 03-14-2010, 11:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marksman44

Anyone familiar with the 9mm headstamp, DAG?

DAG is Dynamit Nobel AG, the giant German munitions maker. I've shot their 9mm, 223, 7.62x51 and 50BMG ammo.
Their military headstamp is DAG, the commercial ammo is marketed as Geco.
They owned RWS as well last time I checked.
LT

BBJones · 04-09-2010, 14:40

Had good luck with both AP and RAI in 9mm. Not sure who makes either but got some in once fired brass I ordered and it loads and shoots fine.

For people who have no trouble with S&B are you swaging it or not? I have a big pile of S&B but was going to swage it first since many people tend to complain about the primer pockets.

MarcusT · 04-14-2010, 10:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by BBJones

Had good luck with both AP and RAI in 9mm. Not sure who makes either but got some in once fired brass I ordered and it loads and shoots fine.

For people who have no trouble with S&B are you swaging it or not? I have a big pile of S&B but was going to swage it first since many people tend to complain about the primer pockets.

I have not swaged any of the S&B and have had no problems with CCI primers.

FlyfishermanMike · 04-14-2010, 16:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarcusT

I have not swaged any of the S&B and have had no problems with CCI primers.

I just primed 50+ random range S&B's with CCI's and everything was as normal. I'm not sure what all the fuss is about. This was in .45 though.

Aquanewt · 05-06-2010, 02:08

I have to be honest, I'm not sure if this has come up in the previous 9 pages worth of posts, but I discard any military .38 spl I come up with (usually from commerial reloads) I reload flush seated wadcutters and as military brass tends to be thicker, the cases bulge around the loaded projectile. You can resize them but it's a lot of work when you consider the availabilty of commercial brass. I also tend to use +P brass for +P loads and avoid nickled cases for my wadcutters. Just my 2 cents

mboylan · 05-30-2010, 18:44

S&B is good brass for reloading. It does have military crimped primer pockets. The primer pocket on once fired brass needs to be swaged just like most military brass. After that it's good to go and high quality.

Streetking · 06-11-2010, 01:21

I load range brass. A lot of it shot from Glocks of which I own four. 19,20,26,23. I have heard on this forum that glock brasss cannot be reloaded. I have some that I shoot from my own glocks and have reloaded it 10+ times. It is not a problem when it is full length sized. I do reduce pressure on target loads and that has a significant impact on longevity.

Mattog22 · 08-15-2010, 21:45

Anyone have problems with Magtech .308 brass? I had some reloads that I thought were too hot running through my FAL. At a big 3 gun match I had some fail to eject, would put empty case back into chamber and lock up there. I started noticing that in my reloads it was only with the Magtech brass. I actually had the rim rip off of one and get left in the chamber. So I was going to take the blame thinking my loads were too hot and thought my Lake City could just stand up to it and the softer Magtech brass wouldn't. Now I have to blame Magtech. I had factory Magtech 147 gr .308 and had the same thing happen again today! This was factory brass! I turned the gas on the rifle to full open and still had stuck cases. You would see the rim bent from trying to get extracted. So I switched to federal soft points and even closed the gas off and they ran great. I am through with Magtech. Has anyone else had any problem like this?

robert91922 · 08-16-2010, 11:59

Recently I loaded 100 factory new MFS (hungarian) 9mm cases but had much problems with resizing. Although they were properly lubed with Dillon lube it was quite hard to push them in and pull them out of resizing die. Finally, when loaded, about 20 rounds were useless, cases were bulged at the bottom and didn't pass the chamber checker. I used Speer 130gr FMJ bullets. I'm reloading 9mm on friend's Dillon XL650 with Dillon dies and never had such problems although I pick & load almost every brass that could be found on range, after proper washing and tumbling, of course.
So, if you find some new cheap MFS 9mm brass be carefull, try at start some few before you buy a big bulk.

TheGrimReaper · 08-17-2010, 19:02

Loaded RWS and it was good to go for me.

ColdShot · 10-13-2010, 18:55

I recently got a batch of 9MM with the headstamp WCC 06 and it has a red dye around
the primers.....well they are a BIOTCH......I am not sure what the red dye is but when decapping the pockets get all messed up with metal filings and wont reprime in my 550B..
But the brass I have (asst) without that red dye is never a problem.....
Geezzz

alank2 · 10-13-2010, 18:59

Hi,

Quote:

Originally Posted by ColdShot

I recently got a batch of 9MM with the headstamp WCC 06 and it has a red dye around
the primers.....well they are a BIOTCH......I am not sure what the red dye is but when decapping the pockets get all messed up with metal filings and wont reprime in my 550B..
But the brass I have (asst) without that red dye is never a problem.....
Geezzz

Are they CRIMPED ? Look inside the primer pocket to see...

Thanks,

Alan

ColdShot · 10-13-2010, 19:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by alank2

Hi,

Are they CRIMPED ? Look inside the primer pocket to see...

Thanks,

Alan

I just found out from Yankee that its military crimped brass......
I am not sure if its usable but wont work in my press

mboylan · 10-13-2010, 19:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by ColdShot

I recently got a batch of 9MM with the headstamp WCC 06 and it has a red dye around
the primers.....well they are a BIOTCH......I am not sure what the red dye is but when decapping the pockets get all messed up with metal filings and wont reprime in my 550B..
But the brass I have (asst) without that red dye is never a problem.....
Geezzz

Military style brass. The primer pockets have to be swaged.

When I get stuff like that, I just form them into 9x18 cases. Since I'm going to have to go through an extra step anyway.

Bob2223 · 10-13-2010, 19:43

Used one for 10-12 years on crimped brass.

Guess it depends on how much you have or think you might get it the future ?

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=880694

Bob

ColdShot · 10-15-2010, 04:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by mboylan

Military style brass. The primer pockets have to be swaged.

When I get stuff like that, I just form them into 9x18 cases. Since I'm going to have to go through an extra step anyway.

so I have learned,I prefer not to do that extra step
I learned something new

TexasLongslide · 11-04-2010, 16:00

Those of you having issues with S&B 9mm brass, try Federal primers. I loaded hundreds of them the other night with absolutely no primer issues.

Good
S&B
Winchester
Federal

Bad
NATO Brass

NATO brass only works about 1/3rd of the time, it destroys many a primer. I don't bother to pick it up.

njl · 11-04-2010, 19:24

NATO brass likely has crimped primer pockets which need to be dealt with before you try repriming them.

Aquanewt · 11-19-2010, 23:13

In my experience with .38 spl brass I have found the following to be helpful:
1: I seperate +P brass from regular and do not flush seat WC bullets in +P brass. Nickel Plated Brass +P seems to be even worse and the case bulges over the bullet unless it's a hollow base WC, and then the bullet distorts.
2: Once Fired brass is seperated by make. After it's reloaded once it becomes "Used Multiple times" brass and although loaded the same way, it's practice brass only. I will sometimes load up a batch of 2x brass for a match where I know I'm not going to recover it.
3: I seperate plated and non-plated brass in my " Used Multiple Times" Buckets
4: I do not reload .38 spl "military" head stamped brass as I find it's thicker and tends to bulge over the loaded bullet.

gwalchmai · 11-20-2010, 05:07

I loaded some 124gr FMJ into once-fired 9mm S&B brass last night. They worked great, with only the slightest bit of extra resistance during priming. It may have been because I used Wolf SPPs. I'll measure the primers and see if they're slightly smaller. Maybe metric primers are slightly smaller than real ones...

sigman69 · 12-27-2010, 04:52

Geco brass any good I got some in 9mm.

AMERC is junk I dont even attempt to reload goes in the recycle bucket every time.

I have never had an issue with Winchester, and federal headstamped handgun brass. Some of the WCC with the NATO stamp had real tight primer pockets.

mboylan · 12-27-2010, 11:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by sigman69

Geco brass any good I got some in 9mm.

AMERC is junk I dont even attempt to reload goes in the recycle bucket every time.

I have never had an issue with Winchester, and federal headstamped handgun brass. Some of the WCC with the NATO stamp had real tight primer pockets.

You have to swage the primer pockets on all military brass. The 5.56 guys do it all the time. That doesn't make the brass good or bad. It adds a step the first time you reload it.