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Old 09-04-2010, 15:01   #1261
doodi1
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Originally Posted by juicespeare1 View Post
Mine looks similar to yours, just not quite as bad. It's sloped downward at the front like yours. The opposite of pig-nose.
Any pictures of yours? I am going to try to post more pictures when I get home. I think it would be helpful if you show a picture on how it compares with the Glock frame.
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Old 09-04-2010, 22:01   #1262
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Any pictures of yours? I am going to try to post more pictures when I get home. I think it would be helpful if you show a picture on how it compares with the Glock frame.

Pics coming soon, I can't login to my Photobucket account right now, but will soon.

I will reveal the world's first "Alligator Mouth" LWD frame in appropriate OD green color.

I will edit this post with the pics as soon as I can login.

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Last edited by juicespeare1; 09-04-2010 at 22:54..
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Old 09-04-2010, 22:48   #1263
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Old 09-04-2010, 22:50   #1264
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The images above show my son holding the firearm.

The yellowish stuff on the barrel is CLP, not rust.

As you can see mine has "Alligator Mouth" as so called by Doodi1.

Last edited by juicespeare1; 09-04-2010 at 22:51..
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Old 09-05-2010, 03:51   #1265
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The green looks pretty good.
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Old 09-05-2010, 04:04   #1266
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that OD frame seems to have reverse pig nose
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Old 09-05-2010, 05:04   #1267
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Originally Posted by emopunker2004 View Post
that OD frame seems to have reverse pig nose
Yeah, Doodi1 coined the term "Alligator Mouth" for it.

I'm slowly working to fix that by heating the rail with a hair dryer and applying pressure upward on the end of the rail/dust cover to push it up to fill the gap.

My son and I worked on it a bit last night and it's now better than the pics show, but still needs more work to get it right.

The oven curing of the Cerakote OD green caused it to get worse. Also, the oven curing made my mag drop issue reappear. So it's back to sanding the inside of the grip to allow my mags to drop free again.

I don't recommend using oven cure paints for this frame. Since I have both oven cure and air cure versions and this is a proto frame, I wanted to see how the oven cure would work. I guess when I get my non-proto frame I'll use the air cure Cerakote instead.
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Old 09-05-2010, 05:15   #1268
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air cure is better
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:01   #1269
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Old 09-05-2010, 13:58   #1270
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Originally Posted by juicespeare1 View Post

As you can see mine has "Alligator Mouth" as so called by Doodi1.
How hot was the oven? How long did you bake it?
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Old 09-05-2010, 14:58   #1271
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How hot was the oven? How long did you bake it?
250F for 35 minutes twice to draw out all the oils. Cleaned with 91% alcohol prior to both initial baking periods to draw out all oils. Had to bake twice as there was still a little oil seeping from one of the front rails after the first baking.

After that painted with Cerakote OG Green H formula (oven cure) and baked at 200F for 2 hours to cure.

All temps where the Nic Industries recommended temps for plastic parts.

I'm not exactly sure when the "Alligator Mouth" got worse. It might have happened during the initial baking periods or during the actual curing period.

In any case I already had some "Alligator Mouth" prior to the entire process and received it that way from LWD.

It's not really that big of a deal as some judicious heating with a hair dryer and pressure on the front of the dust cover/rail has returned it back to the initial state. My son and I will be working on it more today to get it perfect.

I've already fixed the mag drop issue that got worse after the baking and all my mags now drop free again. That only takes some sanding by trial and error, a lot of trial and error. In any case when I received my frame from LWD my mags wouldn't drop free either, so the same method I used then to fix it, I used again after the baking to fix it again.

I know that I'll be able to fix the "Alligator Mouth" with some work with the hair dryer and pressure like I stated above.

These are unfortunate issues but I believe they will both be addressed in the final product.

I still would not recommend any paint that requires baking to cure.

In any case the air cure Cerakote is just as durable as the oven cure from what I've seen. I've used the air cure on AR lowers and it's tough too.

Last edited by juicespeare1; 09-07-2010 at 11:46..
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Old 09-05-2010, 14:58   #1272
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250F for 35 minutes twice to draw out all the oils. Cleaned with 91% alcohol prior to both initial baking periods to draw out all oils. Had to bake twice as there was still a little oil seeping from one of the front rails after the first baking.

After that painted with Cerakote OG Green H formula (oven cure) and baked at 200F for 2 hours to cure.

All temps where the Nic Industries recommended temps for plastic parts.

I'm not exactly sure when the "Alligator Mouth" got worse. It might have happened during the initial baking periods or during the actual curing period.

In any case I already had some "Alligator Mouth" prior to the entire process and received it that way from LWD.

It's not really that big of a deal as some judicious heating with a hair dryer and pressure on the front of the dust cover/rail has returned it back to the initial state. My son and I will be working on it more today to get it perfect.

I've already fixed the mag drop issue that got worse after the baking and all my mags now drop free again. That only takes some sanding by trial and error, a lot of trial and error. In any case when I received my frame from LWD my mags wouldn't drop free either, so the same method I used then to fix it, I used again after the baking to fix it again.

I know that I'll be able to fix the "Alligator Mouth" with some work with the hair dryer and pressure like I stated above.

These are unfortunate issues but I believe they will both be addressed in the final product.

I still would not recommend any paint that requires baking to cure.

In any case the air cure Cerakote is just as durable as the oven cure from what I've seen. I've used the air cure on AR lowers and it's tough too.

Last edited by juicespeare1; 09-05-2010 at 18:07..
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Old 09-05-2010, 14:58   #1273
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Hmm that's weird, double post.
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Old 09-05-2010, 16:51   #1274
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Originally Posted by juicespeare1 View Post
Yeah, Doodi1 coined the term "Alligator Mouth" for it.
That green color (which BTW, I like a lot ) really makes it the Gator Mouth!
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Old 09-07-2010, 14:43   #1275
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Thought I'd throw up a pic of my very first round through my G17 wearing the timberwolf Proto127. I was re-using a rifle target, and the only shot I took on this one was the pink in the center...the other are 325 WSM rifle rounds...

No matter who you are, it always feels good to hit a bullseye!

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Old 09-08-2010, 15:52   #1276
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Thought I'd throw up a pic of my very first round through my G17 wearing the timberwolf Proto127. I was re-using a rifle target, and the only shot I took on this one was the pink in the center...the other are 325 WSM rifle rounds...

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any close ups of your pistol with the lonewolf frame? I honestly didn't like how the OD green one posted above looked.
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Old 09-08-2010, 16:23   #1277
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all these concerns are making me shy away from the product.. eh maybe next time.
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Old 09-08-2010, 18:55   #1278
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It takes a little trial and error to make something work. I am hoping they get the bugs worked out cause I want one for a Mech Tech CCU
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Old 09-08-2010, 20:19   #1279
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any close ups of your pistol with the lonewolf frame? I honestly didn't like how the OD green one posted above looked.
Don't let the "Alligator Mouth" turn you off. I've already fixed mine. A heat gun or hair dryer and some pressure fixes that issue, just like the "Pig Nose" problem with Glock frames. My OD green Glock OEM frame had pig nose so bad that the front of the dust cover/rail touched the slide and rubbed every time I shot it. This is the other extreme. I also fixed that with a hair dryer and pressure.

Just takes maybe 30 minutes and some trial and error heating and applying pressure to the frame dust cover/rail area in the direction you want it to move. You could probably fix it in 5 minutes if you aren't as careful as I am. I always work on something in little increments so I don't over do things.

The tight mags took much more time to fix and JR has already stated this problem was with some of the proto frames and will not be an issue with the final product.

I'm pretty pleased now with how mine turned out. The Cerakote is very tough as we heated it with a hair dryer at first and then with a heat gun today and applied pressure and the Cerakote looks no different than after I initially painted it. It's tough stuff and flexes with the frame. That's one of the reasons to use Cerakote besides the heat resistance. It's a very flexible finish.
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Old 09-08-2010, 20:24   #1280
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I guess after a few more range reports and some trial and error from other good folks out there I could give it a try. For now I'll standby. Thanks
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