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Old 01-11-2012, 20:44   #1
big_gun_man
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Value of Steyr HS .50 and Zeiss Daivari V 6x24x56 scope

Got a chance to shoot one today that had Zeiss Diavari V 6x24x56 scope on it. It was an awesome experience. I have the chance to buy the gun and scope as a combo and couldnt find any recent one that have sold to get a value.

Anybody have this gun or scope or both and what what be a good price to ay fr the combo, the gun is ready to go with rings and a biod which I believe is factory on the HS .50

Also will this gun likely go up in value.

Thanks in advance for any input.
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Old 01-14-2012, 21:05   #2
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Anybody the gun is in great shape with the exception of a few marks under the stock from where the dumb ass who previously owned it folded te bipod the wrong way and niced up the stock, I don't know how much that will effect te value on a rifle like this but it's only cosmetic.

As far as the scope goes, des anybody know if it's still in production, also is STeyr still importing these rifles.
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:56   #3
D3S3RT_P3NGU1N
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The whole combo is worth maybe $4000-$4500 max. You can find a brand new HS for $3000 if you look hard and the Diavari's I've seen sell brand new for $1700 over on the hide. Without pics of the marks and without knowing the round count you'll have to figure out exactly how much off the NIB price to offer. The HS isn't the most popular .50 out there, so they don't hold their value as well as some other rifles


If you're looking at getting into .50 bmg though, you really need to look hard at the AR-50. You could pick up a brand new AR-50 with a Nightforce NXS 8-32x56 scope with mil turrets and an MLR reticle(matching your turrets to your reticle is VERY important, both for shooting and for if you ever want to sell the thing, selling a high end optic without turrets matching the reticle is a nightmare) for pretty much the same money. There's a reason why you see so many AR-50's at matches, they're accurate, very well built and very reliable. IMO they're the best .50 bmg in that price range.
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Old 02-05-2012, 20:44   #4
big_gun_man
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Originally Posted by D3S3RT_P3NGU1N View Post
The whole combo is worth maybe $4000-$4500 max. You can find a brand new HS for $3000 if you look hard and the Diavari's I've seen sell brand new for $1700 over on the hide. Without pics of the marks and without knowing the round count you'll have to figure out exactly how much off the NIB price to offer. The HS isn't the most popular .50 out there, so they don't hold their value as well as some other rifles


If you're looking at getting into .50 bmg though, you really need to look hard at the AR-50. You could pick up a brand new AR-50 with a Nightforce NXS 8-32x56 scope with mil turrets and an MLR reticle(matching your turrets to your reticle is VERY important, both for shooting and for if you ever want to sell the thing, selling a high end optic without turrets matching the reticle is a nightmare) for pretty much the same money. There's a reason why you see so many AR-50's at matches, they're accurate, very well built and very reliable. IMO they're the best .50 bmg in that price range.

Is the Zeiss Davari a good scope capable of doing what you are talking about with the Nightforce scope, I don't want t ak a stupid question but I don't know, there's a lot I don't know about long range shooting and scopes.
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Old 02-05-2012, 22:42   #5
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Originally Posted by big_gun_man View Post
Is the Zeiss Davari a good scope capable of doing what you are talking about with the Nightforce scope, I don't want t ak a stupid question but I don't know, there's a lot I don't know about long range shooting and scopes.
No problem, getting started in long range shooting can be difficult. I would like to mention though that a .50 isn't the ideal way to begin your long range education, it can make for an expensive learning curve. It may be worth your while picking up a decent but affordable .308 first or even to go with the .50 to allow you to learn a little cheaper. You could pick up a 700 AAC-SD for maybe $650 and shoot 175gr SMK FGMM for less than $20 a box, which would easily take you out to 1000 yards. You could even share optics with the .50 if you didn't want to buy a second scope.

Optically the Zeiss is absolutely top notch, no question about that. My biggest problem with it is the pretty limited adjustment range. That really limits you if you're looking to really reach out there in terms of range, which is obviously one of the main reasons to own a .50. Even if you're not looking to do that yourself, if you're trying to keep resale value in mind, future buyers will very likely be looking at that, which could hinder your sale. What you need to find out before you even consider it though is exactly what reticle and what knobs the scope has. You want a mil reticle with mil knobs or an moa reticle with moa knobs. I generally prefer mils, they're just easier to use, but either will work as long as they match. If you get a scope with knobs that don't match the reticle it'll be a PITA to use and very difficult to sell. If they don't match I wouldn't touch the thing

If you go the NF route the 8-32x56mm NXS will give you some more adjustment and higher top end magnification. The 5.5-22x56mm will give you similar top end magnification to the Zeiss but will give you double the adjustment range, which for ELR shooting is absolutely huge. Between the two I would go with the 5.5-22x56mm NXS. I like having extra magnification, but when you're really looking to reach out there you need adjustment. They're also easy to sell should you ever want to do that.
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:27   #6
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Originally Posted by D3S3RT_P3NGU1N View Post
No problem, getting started in long range shooting can be difficult. I would like to mention though that a .50 isn't the ideal way to begin your long range education, it can make for an expensive learning curve. It may be worth your while picking up a decent but affordable .308 first or even to go with the .50 to allow you to learn a little cheaper. You could pick up a 700 AAC-SD for maybe $650 and shoot 175gr SMK FGMM for less than $20 a box, which would easily take you out to 1000 yards. You could even share optics with the .50 if you didn't want to buy a second scope.

Optically the Zeiss is absolutely top notch, no question about that. My biggest problem with it is the pretty limited adjustment range. That really limits you if you're looking to really reach out there in terms of range, which is obviously one of the main reasons to own a .50. Even if you're not looking to do that yourself, if you're trying to keep resale value in mind, future buyers will very likely be looking at that, which could hinder your sale. What you need to find out before you even consider it though is exactly what reticle and what knobs the scope has. You want a mil reticle with mil knobs or an moa reticle with moa knobs. I generally prefer mils, they're just easier to use, but either will work as long as they match. If you get a scope with knobs that don't match the reticle it'll be a PITA to use and very difficult to sell. If they don't match I wouldn't touch the thing

If you go the NF route the 8-32x56mm NXS will give you some more adjustment and higher top end magnification. The 5.5-22x56mm will give you similar top end magnification to the Zeiss but will give you double the adjustment range, which for ELR shooting is absolutely huge. Between the two I would go with the 5.5-22x56mm NXS. I like having extra magnification, but when you're really looking to reach out there you need adjustment. They're also easy to sell should you ever want to do that.

Thanks for the response, how is the best way to tell if the scope is mill/ mill or moa/ moa will it be posted on the scope.

Thanks
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Old 02-06-2012, 11:38   #7
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Originally Posted by big_gun_man View Post
Thanks for the response, how is the best way to tell if the scope is mill/ mill or moa/ moa will it be posted on the scope.

Thanks
You just need to look at the turrets and the reticle.

The turrets should say something along the lines of the following

For mil turrets: .1 mil, .1 mrad, 1 cm at 100 meters, 0.5cm at 100 meters etc. Basically if they say anything about mils, mrads or cm you're dealing with mils.

For moa turrets: .25 moa, 0.125 moa, 1/4" at 100 yards, 1/3" at 100 yards. If you see anything about inches or moa you're dealing with moa

For reticles you need to identify the one in the scope.

It will more than likely be one of the following

Reticle 43(Zeiss mil dot reticle)

General Firearms Forum

Rapid-Z series

RZ-1000

General Firearms Forum

RZ Varminter

General Firearms Forum

If you come across something different or if you're not sure what you've got just take some pics of the reticle and turrets and I'll do my best to help you ID what you're dealing with

Ideally though you're looking for mil turrets with the mil dot reticle 43. Keep in mind though that it is an SFP (second focal plane) scope, which means the reticle will not grow and shrink as you move around the magnification range, so the reticle will only be accurate at a single power setting.
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Old 02-06-2012, 16:59   #8
big_gun_man
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Originally Posted by D3S3RT_P3NGU1N View Post
You just need to look at the turrets and the reticle.

The turrets should say something along the lines of the following

For mil turrets: .1 mil, .1 mrad, 1 cm at 100 meters, 0.5cm at 100 meters etc. Basically if they say anything about mils, mrads or cm you're dealing with mils.

For moa turrets: .25 moa, 0.125 moa, 1/4" at 100 yards, 1/3" at 100 yards. If you see anything about inches or moa you're dealing with moa

For reticles you need to identify the one in the scope.

It will more than likely be one of the following

Reticle 43(Zeiss mil dot reticle)

General Firearms Forum

Rapid-Z series

RZ-1000

General Firearms Forum

RZ Varminter

General Firearms Forum

If you come across something different or if you're not sure what you've got just take some pics of the reticle and turrets and I'll do my best to help you ID what you're dealing with

Ideally though you're looking for mil turrets with the mil dot reticle 43. Keep in mind though that it is an SFP (second focal plane) scope, which means the reticle will not grow and shrink as you move around the magnification range, so the reticle will only be accurate at a single power setting.
I checked today and the scope is mill/mill, am I understanding you correctly and do you mean that if I sight the scope in at 200 yards with the scope set on 8 power, that the scope will only be accurate using 8 power.

Thanks, you have been a big help.
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Old 02-06-2012, 17:46   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big_gun_man View Post
I checked today and the scope is mill/mill, am I understanding you correctly and do you mean that if I sight the scope in at 200 yards with the scope set on 8 power, that the scope will only be accurate using 8 power.

Thanks, you have been a big help.
No, the scope will be accurate at any magnification setting, but your reticle will only be accurate at one magnification.

When you're shooting, as long as you dial in the correct adjustments you will still be on target, it doesn't matter if you're at 8x or at 24x

The difference between SFP and FFP scopes is the usability of the reticle. Becuase the reticle on an FFP scope appears to grow or shrink as you move through the power range, the reticle is accurate at any setting. The reticle on an SFP optic is only accurate at one setting.

Here's a simplified example. Say you're looking at a 1 yard high target at 1000 yards. With your scope set at 24x it takes up 1 mil on your reticle, as its supposed to (1 mil is 1/1000th of the distance you're shooting, therefore a 1 yard high target at 1000 yards should take up 1 mil). Now if you go ahead and back the scope down to say 6x, your 1 yard high target will appear to only take up a fraction of the 1 mil it took up on your reticle at 24x, even though you know that mathematically that target is 1 mil high.

Check out this gif of a Premier 1.1-8x24mm FFP scope. Notice how because the reticle appears to grow and shrink it means the light always takes up the same amount of mils on the reticle.

General Firearms Forum

A SFP scope won't do this, if the scope in the gif was SFP rather than FFP it would mean that the light would appear to take up more and more mils on the reticle as the level of magnification increases.

Here's an explanation of some of the things you can do with an FFP optic at any magnification setting if posted in a previous thread

Quote:
Some examples of how much easier an FFP mil/mil optic makes shooting:

Say you're shooting your rifle at a target at an unknown distance using an FFP mil/mil scope. You fire your first shot and you see through your reticle that your first shot was about 1.2 mils low and .5 mils left according to the markings on your reticle. Now because your turret matches your reticle, just dial in 12 clicks elevation and 5 windage (0.1 mils per click) and you're right on.

If you know the size of your target, you can use your reticle to very quickly and accurately calculate the range of your target before you take a shot. Say you know your target is 36" tall. On your reticle you see that it takes up 2.5 mils. Knowing that 1 mil equals 1/1000th of the distance you're shooting, you can work out the range with simple calculations. Since 36" = 1 yard, and you know that at 1000 yards a 1 yard tall target will take up 1 mil, you can go ahead and divide 1000 by 2.5 which gives you 400 yards.

If you're shooting at say 600 yards and you didn't see the impact but your buddy tells your shot was off by about 9 inches and you want to correct this. In your head you know that a mil is 1/1000th of 600 yards, or .6 of a yard. Knowing a yard is 36 inches, you work out that .6 of a yard is 21.6 inches (I do this by dividing 36 in half to get .5 of a mil or 18 inches, then adding on 3.6 inches for the extra .1 of a mil to make .6, but you can get here lots of ways). Dividing 21.6 by 10 gives you 2.16 inches, which is what each of your .1 mil clicks will equal at this distance. You proceed to dial in .4 mils to bring you to within .4 of an inch of the correction, which is well within the shooter and spotter margin of error.
You can still do these things with an SFP optic, but you can only do them accurately on a single power setting.
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