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Old 08-22-2012, 14:58   #1
LINKz
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Lubrication on 1911?

So my buddy asked me to clean a couple of his guns because he lost his supplies in the move, one of them being a Springfield Armory TRP 1911. I have it all cleaned, and am ready to lube and reassemble. I've never actually owned a 1911 , but it's to my understanding that they require much more lubrication than my Glock. Are there key points on the 1911 that need attention that Glocks don't? Any tips would be appreciatied.
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Old 08-22-2012, 15:42   #2
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Tons of info on YouTube.....I use SlideGlide on rails & Slip 2000 EWL everywhere else
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Old 08-22-2012, 18:48   #3
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I have always used standard gun oil on my 1911's since I was a kid. Lube the rails, barrel hood, barrel bushing, hammer joints, underside of the slide that trips the dis connector and the barrel itself. All lightly of course.

The last few years I have used MilTec-1. It's excellent stuff and is supposed to condition the metal after a few applications.

The 1911 in its original build spec is not an overly tight gun, nor was it ever meant to be. The old 1911's of which I have had several are loose enough that you can run them bone dry if you had to. My Colt's were all the same way. Do they need more lube than a Glock? Absolutely, and so does just about everything else known to man.

Lube them lightly with a good oil as you would any other gun and shoot them. They will be fine.

The 1911 was never meant to be made match tight, like a Kimber, or a Les Baer. Those are great guns, but not what John Browning intended for the design of the weapon. The 1911 has always been know as a rugged and reliable weapon in adverse conditions and in its original build specs it is just that. You start tightening things up to bank vault specs, then you had better have a master gunsmith doing that work or you can expect problems.

Me personally I like my 1911's slightly loose or mil spec. No full length guide rods, and super tight barrel bushings etc. Now you can get a super tight gun that is reliable too such as a Les Baer etc, but you must be willing to pay the money for it.

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-22-2012, 21:58   #4
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Barely lube the contact points like rails, locking lugs, around the muzzle, etc.

For some ungodly reasons people think that guns; be they old or new, needed to be drenched with oil/grease. A little goes a long way.
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Old 08-22-2012, 22:36   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fnfalman View Post
Barely lube the contact points like rails, locking lugs, around the muzzle, etc.

For some ungodly reasons people think that guns; be they old or new, needed to be drenched with oil/grease. A little goes a long way.
I agree with you, depending on the kind of lube/oil used.
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Old 08-22-2012, 23:46   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glock2740 View Post
I agree with you, depending on the kind of lube/oil used.
Unless one is about to blast 500-rounds non-stop, any type of gun lube will do.

It's a freakin' gun that is 101-years-old in design with a handful of moving parts. It's not a V-4 motorcycle engine that can rev up to 16,000-RPM.
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Old 08-23-2012, 02:16   #7
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Originally Posted by fnfalman View Post
Unless one is about to blast 500-rounds non-stop, any type of gun lube will.......
Can not agree with this.
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:16   #8
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>>any type of gun lube will do.<<

Aw c'mon.... we haven't had a good "my lube's better than your lube" thread in a while now!
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:46   #9
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:42   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fnfalman View Post
Barely lube the contact points like rails, locking lugs, around the muzzle, etc.

For some ungodly reasons people think that guns; be they old or new, needed to be drenched with oil/grease. A little goes a long way.

I agree it doesn't require a ton of lube to run, but just like you can't over stir spaghetti sauce, you can't over-lube a 1911. It just runs out of the gun. Too much is preferable to not enough.
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:50   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faawrenchbndr View Post
Can not agree with this.
If you were to only blast a few rounds through your gun, then why would you need a magic lube that doesn't break down from extreme heat?

Tetra grease is a lot better than Rem Oil on paper, but how does it really help in real life? If you're going to carry the gun for self-defense and it's lubed up with Rem Oil, how would that hurt?

If you're going to a competition or a shooting fest that's going to be pumping through a lot of rounds in a short amount of time, then magic lube/magic grease would come in real handy, but otherwise, they are far from necessary.

Magic lube works really well for certain applications but not for the mundane shooting and carrying.
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:31   #12
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<----- has a pretty strong Chem background..... lots of lubes are the same in terms of actual lubrication. Corrosion resistance is a different story.

Right now I use Weaponshield with Slide glide, works great. Have used several different in the past, will say that all the mobil 1 + ATF mixes work really well, but are stinky.
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:33   #13
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To some previous cliche comments about tight fitting guns needing lube.....

Watch and enjoy....

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Old 08-23-2012, 14:17   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fnfalman View Post
If you were to only blast a few rounds through your gun, then why would you need a magic lube that doesn't break down from extreme heat?

Tetra grease is a lot better than Rem Oil on paper, but how does it really help in real life? If you're going to carry the gun for self-defense and it's lubed up with Rem Oil, how would that hurt?

If you're going to a competition or a shooting fest that's going to be pumping through a lot of rounds in a short amount of time, then magic lube/magic grease would come in real handy, but otherwise, they are far from necessary.

Magic lube works really well for certain applications but not for the mundane shooting and carrying.
I like "magic lube".............
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Old 08-23-2012, 14:34   #15
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I use Slide Glide and Tetra on mine. If I am going to do an intensive shoot (300-500 rounds in the day at a Gunfighting Course) I will take down the gun at Lunch and wipe, check for dirty powder residue and re-lube. I have a solid guide rod in mine and only have to remove the slide lock to take the top end off in one piece. Real fast and easy.
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Old 08-23-2012, 14:56   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie Steve View Post
I agree it doesn't require a ton of lube to run, but just like you can't over stir spaghetti sauce, you can't over-lube a 1911. It just runs out of the gun. Too much is preferable to not enough.
Yes, it just runs out and gets all over your hands. Then your grip is too slippery to control the pistol, not to mention attracting dirt and sand like crazy.

So, unless you're in a critical situation, overlube doesn't amount to anything but an inconvenience.
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Old 08-23-2012, 15:02   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fnfalman View Post
Yes, it just runs out and gets all over your hands. Then your grip is too slippery to control the pistol, not to mention attracting dirt and sand like crazy.

So, unless you're in a critical situation, overlube doesn't amount to anything but an inconvenience.
You are having the problem because you are using the WRONG lube!
SlideGlide on rails, Slip 2000 EWL everywhere else!
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Old 08-23-2012, 16:15   #18
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Going waaaay back to my days building shoebox racers the winners tended to use walnut oil, it was similar to WD-40 in consistency,it was an excellent short term lube but needed frequent reapplication. I was plaesed to see that a recent competitor on the STMFFAO* competition circuit has has rediscovered the benefits but in keeping with the organic nature of the walnut oil is upprading it with another organic that has a longer lasting quality. He is now championing his own mixture of 38% walnut oil and 62% tiger semen.

As you may imagine, obtaining the walnut oil is the most difficult part of making the formula, unless one owns a walnut tree and the means to extract the oil from the nut. It is rather a specialty item and is subject to seasonal price variations and climatic condition that effect the price drastically.

If this catches on, of course you can expect to see shortages of tiger semen at your local outlets as well.

* (STMFFAO- Shoot the MF'er Fast and Often)
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Old 08-23-2012, 20:40   #19
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Old 08-23-2012, 22:34   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faawrenchbndr View Post
You are having the problem because you are using the WRONG lube!
SlideGlide on rails, Slip 2000 EWL everywhere else!
If Uncle Sam were to want the M1911 to be lubed with something else, he wouldn't have issued Break-Free.
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Old 08-24-2012, 05:05   #21
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I prefer Wilsons Ultima Lube. It stays where you put it.
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Old 08-24-2012, 06:01   #22
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The Breakfree these days is crap........none for me
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Old 08-24-2012, 15:04   #23
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I use Militec-1 one on the barrel, slide rails, and shiny parts. And a dab of gun grease on the slide stop shaft and disconnector.
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Old 08-24-2012, 15:39   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MD357 View Post
To some previous cliche comments about tight fitting guns needing lube.....

Watch and enjoy....

1911 No Lube Test - YouTube
Why all the fuss about types and brands of lubes ? According to the vid above 1911's require no lube and run just fine without any at all.So, why worry about having the latest , greatest space age ,high tech, huckleberry kumquat,space shuttle rated lube ? **** it, I'm gonna run mine dry.

Last edited by 3rdgen40; 08-24-2012 at 15:41..
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Old 08-24-2012, 16:44   #25
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Yea,.....you do that. Bring your car over, we'll drain it's oil as well.
It will run without any,...........for a short time before **** hits the fan!
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