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Old 10-08-2012, 08:54   #21
ColoCG
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It also sounds as if you should invest in at least 1, 2 or more are better good reloading manuals such as Lyman, Speer, or Hornady are a few. These manuals will aswer most of your questions about die set up, and reloading equipment in general, as well as providing starting loads listed in grains of weight for most cartridges.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:16   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADK_40GLKr View Post
...seriously rethinking my "Inexpensive reloading" venture. It seems a little more equipment will be a wise investment...
I'm retired from my 9 to 5 and on a "fixed" income and see that as even a greater reason to buy wisely the first time around.

You will without a doubt find that most around here recommend Dillon products - for a reason. But Dillon products aside, you also need a few bucks worth of 'support' equipment to make reloading less painful and more enjoyable AND safer.

I see you are using plated bullets. Is your crimp okay? Do you have a kinetic bullet puller to check the plating on the bullet at your crimp?

You will need a reliable caliper - not necessarily digital.

Above all, you will need a reliable scale - not necessarily digital. Read the recommendations and wise reviewers always return to Dillon in either case.

You will need a set of check-weights - NOT the calibration weights that come with the scale.

You may want some way to clean your brass - there are also threads about tumblers and ultrasonic cleaners.

There are in fact so many odds and ends that I've spent far more on those, than on my initial Dillon 650 press purchase. But I tend to NOT buy junk and continue to purchase things that make reloading easier and more enjoyable.

Before making any more purchase decisions, I would suggest that you keep reading this forum for a while to get an idea of who on here knows what they are talking about - and I am NOT putting myself in that group as I have only been reloading since March. I am however, like a sponge - and my mind works in wonderfully analytical ways so reloading has worked out for me so far.

Last edited by SARDG; 10-08-2012 at 09:17..
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:06   #23
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You really should follow the advice in the stickies. VERY hard to go wrong doing that. I prefer Dillon after owning nearly every press in the sticky so I speak from personal experience.
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Old 10-08-2012, 13:45   #24
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Originally Posted by SARDG View Post
Do you have a kinetic bullet puller to check the plating on the bullet at your crimp?
Pay heed to the 'kinetic bullet puller'. The collet style works well for rifle bullets, doesn't work at all for semi-wadcutter pistol bullets and is only marginal for other pistol bullets.

Although I have the RCBS version, this one looks like it will work just as well and it's cheaper:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/215...-bullet-puller

SARDG's point was that when you use a taper crimp die to close up the case mouth, you don't want to go so far that you dent the plating. The way to test the adjustment is to assemble a round and then pull the bullet. If there is no mark from the crimp, at least the round is not over-crimped. But you need to crimp far enough that the case is straight and the mouth doesn't stick up.

Oh, and you really do want to use a taper crimp die even if it didn't come in the die set.

Richard
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Last edited by F106 Fan; 10-08-2012 at 14:45.. Reason: not overcrimped
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Old 10-08-2012, 14:37   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F106 Fan View Post
Pay heed to the 'kinetic bullet puller'. The collet style works well for rifle bullets, doesn't work at all for semi-wadcutter pistol bullets and is only marginal for other pistol bullets.

Although I have the RCBS version, this one looks like it will work just as well and it's cheaper:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/215...-bullet-puller

SARDG's point was that when you use a taper crimp die to close up the case mouth, you don't want to go so far that you dent the plating. The way to test the adjustment is to assemble a round and then pull the bullet. If there is no mark from the crimp, at least the round is over-crimped. But you need to crimp far enough that the case is straight and the mouth doesn't stick up.

Oh, and you really do want to use a taper crimp die even if it didn't come in the die set.

Richard
Hey Richard you did mean " at least the round is not over-crimped" didn't you?
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Old 10-08-2012, 14:46   #26
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Hey Richard you did mean " at least the round is not over-crimped" didn't you?
Yup! Fixed

I didn't think anyone ever read the stuff I posted...

Richard
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Old 10-08-2012, 14:46   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F106 Fan View Post
Pay heed to the 'kinetic bullet puller'. The collet style works well for rifle bullets, doesn't work at all for semi-wadcutter pistol bullets and is only marginal for other pistol bullets....

SARDG's point was that when you use a taper crimp die to close up the case mouth, you don't want to go so far that you dent the plating. The way to test the adjustment is to assemble a round and then pull the bullet. If there is no mark from the crimp, at least the round is over-crimped. But you need to crimp far enough that the case is straight and the mouth doesn't stick up.

Oh, and you really do want to use a taper crimp die even if it didn't come in the die set.

Richard
Thanks for your sage advice and continuation of my crimp comments. BTW, didn't you mean 'the round is NOT over-crimped'?

Also, I have an RCBS 9mil collet style puller and a $22 Lee press dedicated to it for pulling my Montana Gold 147 CMJs (right now), and it works wonderfully. It probably has something to do with the bullet profile and enough straight edge of the bullet above the case, before the ogive - and with a 147gr and long OAL (1.135) I have plenty.

My philosophy for 'stuff' is; see it, buy it, try it. This puller works well for me, but YMMV.
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Old 10-08-2012, 14:47   #28
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Yup! Fixed

I didn't think anyone ever read the stuff I posted...

Richard
Richard who????
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Old 10-08-2012, 14:56   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SARDG View Post
Thanks for your sage advice and continuation of my crimp comments. BTW, didn't you mean 'the round is NOT over-crimped'?

Also, I have an RCBS 9mil collet style puller and a $22 Lee press dedicated to it for pulling my Montana Gold 147 CMJs (right now), and it works wonderfully. It probably has something to do with the bullet profile and enough straight edge of the bullet above the case, before the ogive - and with a 147gr and long OAL (1.135) I have plenty.

My philosophy for 'stuff' is; see it, buy it, try it. This puller works well for me, but YMMV.
Yes, I fixed the NOT thing. Duh...

I agree that the collet style puller will work on some pistol bullets. I haven't had any luck with it on .45 FMJ or LRN and, for me, it just isn't worth the hassle for pistol stuff.

I do have a collet puller set up on my Redding T7 set for .308. It works great.

Richard
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Old 10-08-2012, 14:57   #30
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Richard who????
See?

Besides, I usually include a disclaimer about not accepting anything written by an old man with failing eyesight and marginal typing skills.

Richard
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Old 10-08-2012, 14:58   #31
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Yup! Fixed

I didn't think anyone ever read the stuff I posted...

Richard
That makes 2 of us
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Old 10-08-2012, 15:03   #32
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Originally Posted by F106 Fan View Post
...I agree that the collet style puller will work on some pistol bullets. I haven't had any luck with it on .45 FMJ or LRN and, for me, it just isn't worth the hassle for pistol stuff.

I do have a collet puller set up on my Redding T7 set for .308. It works great.

Richard
I also have the collet for .45s, but haven't even tried it yet. By the looks of my load, it may not be as succesful as my 9mil collet. dunno
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Old 10-08-2012, 16:33   #33
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Just get a Impact Bullet Puller.

Reloading

A friend of mine gave me 3500 40sw after he blew up his gun. I pulled them all with the RCBS hammer. I still have and use that hammer.
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Old 10-15-2012, 19:47   #34
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2nd batch went smoother

Digital scale, kinetic bullet puller, fully sizing the shell, consistent flare stroke and tapping out 6.8 grains of Power Pistol in each round gave me a much smoother loading session this time. The bullets all seated properly this time. (Yeah, also checked that primers were seated flush with base of case.)

I think my next investment will be a case tumbler. All I'm cleaning the brass with so far is the white nylon bore brush that came with one of my Glocks.

I'll keep on loading .40 and shooting the G27 at IDPA until my 38 comes back, then will start loading GAP.
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Old 10-15-2012, 19:51   #35
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Just get a Impact Bullet Puller.

Reloading

A friend of mine gave me 3500 40sw after he blew up his gun. I pulled them all with the RCBS hammer. I still have and use that hammer.
Looks exactly like my bullet puller. I find that, with a little patience and a lot of good strong whacks, it even works on WAAAAY overcrimped bullets. (Really gets rid of any aggressions, too.)

You pulled 3500 bullets with that hammer? Must have been mellow for a month after that!

Is that anything like ?

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Last edited by ADK_40GLKr; 10-15-2012 at 19:58..
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Old 10-16-2012, 00:21   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shotgunred View Post
Just get a Impact Bullet Puller.

A friend of mine gave me 3500 40sw after he blew up his gun. I pulled them all with the RCBS hammer. I still have and use that hammer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADK_40GLKr View Post
Looks exactly like my bullet puller. I find that, with a little patience and a lot of good strong whacks, it even works on WAAAAY overcrimped bullets. (Really gets rid of any aggressions, too.)

You pulled 3500 bullets with that hammer? Must have been mellow for a month after that!
When faced with nearly 100 bullets to pull, I wimped out and got a SS press and dedicated it to a collet puller.

That hammer is too much like work!
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