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11-11-2012, 15:33
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 479
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Anyone know how to get this lead off my finish?
I tried using Shooters Choice, Hoppes 9, and neither one of them were able to take this off. All I did was put it on a cotton pad and tried to scrub it out. Not sure what abrasive I can use on this to take these lead scuff marks off my cylinder, without damaging the finish.
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11-11-2012, 16:22
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Alabama
Posts: 6,458
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Lead Away cloth will probably get that off, and fine steel wool will for sure.
But either will take off the blue if you keep on cleaning it back to bare metal.
I read a lot of advertising about lead removers but the ones I have tried don't work very well.
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I have a few facts and a lot of opinions.
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11-11-2012, 18:39
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Watson
Lead Away cloth will probably get that off, and fine steel wool will for sure.
But either will take off the blue if you keep on cleaning it back to bare metal.
I read a lot of advertising about lead removers but the ones I have tried don't work very well.
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Yeah I don't wanna damage my finish. But this stuff is NOT coming off.
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11-11-2012, 19:11
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: texas
Posts: 551
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Not bein a smart alec, but shoot three or four cylinders worth of ammo, clear the weapon and wipe with a cloth and hoppes 9. only thing thats worked for me. Hope this helps.
posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire
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you gonna skin that smokewagon or just stand there and bleed?
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11-11-2012, 19:29
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Mary Esther FL
Posts: 5,968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Watson
Lead Away cloth will probably get that off, and fine steel wool will for sure.
But either will take off the blue if you keep on cleaning it back to bare metal.
I read a lot of advertising about lead removers but the ones I have tried don't work very well.
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Lead away works great. It also will get rid of the black stuff in front of the cylinder. I know it works great on stainless guns. Not sure of blue guns.
Shooting jacket rounds after shooting lead does not remove the lead buildup.
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Last edited by unclebob; 11-11-2012 at 19:33..
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11-11-2012, 20:05
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 786
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Flitz metal polish works but used carefully. A brass brush also works.
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11-11-2012, 20:40
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 4,138
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Lead Away cleaning cloth,if your gun isn't blued because it will also remove the bluing.
The other way to remove it by just shooting and I'm not joking is to shoot six rounds of black powder,BP burns hotter and doesn't leave lead rings at the cylinder mouths.
SJ 40
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11-11-2012, 21:10
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJ 40
Lead Away cleaning cloth,if your gun isn't blued because it will also remove the bluing.
The other way to remove it by just shooting and I'm not joking is to shoot six rounds of black powder,BP burns hotter and doesn't leave lead rings at the cylinder mouths.
SJ 40
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It is blued. I think I'll just shoot a box of factory FMJ's. I don't know much about Black Powder. Never used it. Can I just load my 357's with it? I use Unique with a 158 grain LSWC right now.
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11-12-2012, 07:51
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 5,198
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don't use black powder, you will end up with RUST then.
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11-12-2012, 12:19
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 4,138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ca survivor
don't use black powder, you will end up with RUST then.
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Not if one has a clue about using black powder.
Black powder will absorb water if left for long periods of time without cleaning.
By cleaning shortly after a shooting session with for example Ballistol or MOS,Murphy's oil solution,1/3 Murphys oil soap,1/3 Hydrogen Peroxide and 1/3 rubbing alcohol.
Your guns will be clean and rust free and will have no lead rings on the cylinder faces.
A good site to learn the basics of loading BP cartridges.
http://www.davidscottharper.com/shoot/BP_for_CAS.htm
It may not be for every one but to load a box to use at the end of your shooting sessions isn't difficult. SJ 40
Last edited by SJ 40; 11-12-2012 at 12:21..
Reason: repair link
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11-12-2012, 20:29
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJ 40
Not if one has a clue about using black powder.
Black powder will absorb water if left for long periods of time without cleaning.
By cleaning shortly after a shooting session with for example Ballistol or MOS,Murphy's oil solution,1/3 Murphys oil soap,1/3 Hydrogen Peroxide and 1/3 rubbing alcohol.
Your guns will be clean and rust free and will have no lead rings on the cylinder faces.
A good site to learn the basics of loading BP cartridges.
http://www.davidscottharper.com/shoot/BP_for_CAS.htm
It may not be for every one but to load a box to use at the end of your shooting sessions isn't difficult. SJ 40
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But do you think if I ran 50 or so rounds of factory FMJ through it and wiped it right after it would come off? Would I needa apply any solvent while it's still hot? Like at the bench at the range?
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11-12-2012, 22:06
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Livin in the country of NJ
Posts: 11,786
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The problem with bluing is that it's a controlled oxidation, anything used to remove rust will remove bluing. I honestly don't know what to tell you, a brass mesh screen might work but it might mess up the bluing.
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The M1 Garand rifle is the best battle implement ever devised by man.
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11-13-2012, 11:17
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 4,138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Brines
But do you think if I ran 50 or so rounds of factory FMJ through it and wiped it right after it would come off? Would I needa apply any solvent while it's still hot? Like at the bench at the range?
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Most FMJ bullets have exposed lead bases,where as JSP or JHP do not have exposed lead bases but rather jacketed.
So no you will still have vaporized lead with FMJ's,you would need either JSP,JHP or totally metal encapsulated bullet to prevent any lead rings.
I think what I would try if it is that bothersome to you. Use a bronze bristled brush and if you can locate it Ed's red solvent or equally as well Kroil.
After you return home from your shooting session wet the face of the cylinder or better yet soak the cylinder in either one for about a hour. Then scrub the cylinder face with the brush,if the lead rings aren't fully removed by this process they will be so light as not to be objectionable.
I wish you were local to me as one,I would show you how easily BP removes lead rings from the cylinder face and how to reload BP cartridges.
Kroil.
http://www.kanolabs.com/
Ed's Red
http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleanin...prod19936.aspx
Or mix up your own Ed's red.
http://handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=9
I have used both over the years and they are the two best chemical lead removal agents I know of . For me locally it's easier to obtain Kroil but either works well. SJ 40
Last edited by SJ 40; 11-13-2012 at 11:33..
Reason: repair link
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11-14-2012, 15:32
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Marcellus NY
Posts: 72
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Old Action Pistol trick...
Remove the cylinder and soak the leaded area overnight in Hoppes or Shooters Choice. Takes overnight soaking to loosen thick lead build up--then it should just scrape right off.
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11-14-2012, 18:11
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,917
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Mr. Clean magic eraser
Don't rub too hard or too long!
Turtle Wax or any other synthetic (non-carnuba) liquid spray on wax, or armorall silicone spay to keep it off. Do not use paste polish.
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11-15-2012, 14:36
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Black Hills - South Dakota
Posts: 81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ca survivor
don't use black powder, you will end up with RUST then.
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With all due respect, Nonsense.
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