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Old 11-17-2012, 08:58   #26
mjkeat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Brazier View Post
I can understand why professionals buy DD, Noveske, or any of the other high end or custom AR's, they shoot most everyday and need a tool that will perform, that I get. On the other hand a shooter like the me who will shoot maybe 300rds a month (ballpark around what I shoot) I believe dosent need to spend that much for a rifle that will meet their needs, and be 100% reliable. If the buyer does their homework, knows what to look for in a quality rifle, there are some great values out there. Have you ever handled a DS rifle, or shot one?
A shooter doesn't need to spend large amounts to get a "high end" AR. That's why people recommend Colt, BCM, and DD.

I've done my homework and that's why I chose the ARs I did. Many others have done their homework as well and ended up at the same conclusion and thus recommend those quality companies. It's good advice.

I'm not saying that everyone needs a Noveske. If that was w/i his budget then it would be a great recommendation though. DD is slightly over his $1k budget as well. Now the thing to watch for is spending the same on a sub par AR when a quality one could have been had. A good example of that is DPMS's Warrior model. It runs in the same ballpark as the 6920. I think we all agree that getting the most for your money is good and would recommend it. Good advice?

Recommend, recommend, recommend.

Meow, do you know why I pulled you over? To make a recommendation.
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Old 11-17-2012, 09:37   #27
K. Foster
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The reason people recommend Colt, LMT, DD, etc, is that they use better parts, better assembly and QC than some other companies. Any company can put out a lemon but the better companies do not do so often. If you’re just going to shoot a couple thousand rounds a year, you’ll be fine with most brands. If you plan on high volume shooting, 6k to 10,000 rounds a year, You will see the difference between the upper and lower shelf brands. With 55g FMJ costing over $300 a case, it won’t take long for you to spend more on ammo that what your rifle and accessories cost so why not get the better gun? The buy once cry once philosophy has worked for me many times and never let me down.
Here’s a short explanation of some commonly discussed features, and why they are important.
Hope it helps.

Barrel Twist: The faster 1:7 twist will better stabilize the longer/heavier bullets above 69 grains. You can shoot 50 and 55 grain bullets just fine but your best accuracy will be with the heavier projectiles.
1:9 will generally provide better accuracy with 55 grain ammo than a 1:7 rifled barrel. As long as you stay between 50 and 69g your best accuracy will be determined more by bullet type then weight. In other words, match hollow points will give better results than FMJ.
1:8 obviously falls in the middle and although not as popular, is possibly the best all-around choice.
Barrel Steel: There are 2 basic grades of steel in common use. (Not counting stainless) 4150 is the preferred mil spec and is more resistant to heat than 4140. 4140 is often termed inferior, however it is in common use in the barrel making industry and for the casual shooter, you will likely never have a problem with it. IMO, a good reason to get a 4150 barrel is it is more likely to have come from a quality manufacturer. Keep in mind, most AR companies do not make their own barrels.
HPT: High Pressure Test. This involves firing a high pressure or "proof load" through the barrel and or bolt to see if it will take the stress.
MPI: Magnetic Particle Inspection. This is used to check for surface cracks in the part that may not be detectable by the naked eye, after the proof round has been fired. Just because you have HP/MPI parts does not mean they will never break, just that they are far less likely to. Also, HP/MPI is one more step in quality control and companies that perform or pay to have them performed are likely using all quality parts and doing everything else right, as well.
Staking: The gas key and the castle nut need to be staked to prevent them from vibrating loose. This is a very important step in the assembly process that some lower tier builders fail to accomplish. If you can see that metal from the gas key has been pushed up against both bolts, it’s done right.
“F” Front Sight Base: If you are buying a flat top carbine, you need an F (taller) FSB to be compatible with various aftermarket rear sights.
.223 & 5.56 chambers: These are not completely identical. Do some research. Most people recommend the slightly larger 5.56 as it allows both types of ammo to be used.
Chrome lined barrel: As a default recommendation, get a chrome lined barrel. The chrome lining will make extraction easier and make the barrel last longer and be less susceptible to corrosion.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:23   #28
Rooster Rugburn
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If you are just starting the deciding process, your best bet will be to read up at M4Carbine.net, Arfcom, Chatterbox, and AR15 armory. There are a lot of folks at those boards whose expertise is at expert level. Those boards are dedicated to the AR15, and it's not just a sub-forum of another board.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:33   #29
M&P15T
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Wanna buy mine?

I'm thinking of selling to get into a Daniel Defense.

Black Rifle Forum
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