[gofastman]

a Burris FastFire III 3MOA cost about as much as a bare longslide for my 20, which would be better for long range accuracy/hunting

[Meathead9]

I think the RMR would be better suited to ride on a 10mm slide. I would skip the Longslide, and have either L&M or TSD mill the stock slide for the RMR. I know it's more expensive, but I think it's another one of those "you get what you pay for" situations. The RDS will hands down be the better option for long range targets.

[NDCent]

I run a 3moa dot on my G35. Made a world of difference in my shooting accuracy. But, you'll have a 3 inch dot at 100 yds. and a 1.5 inch dot at 50 yds.

At 35 yards, off hand, I couldn't tell that much difference between my G27 and G35. Adding the 3moa reflex was like cheating. Once you get use to finding the dot (took me a couple boxes of shells) you won't want to shoot without one.

[gofastman]

Originally Posted by Meathead9

I think the RMR would be better suited to ride on a 10mm slide. I would skip the Longslide, and have either L&M or TSD mill the stock slide for the RMR. I know it's more expensive, but I think it's another one of those "you get what you pay for" situations. The RDS will hands down be the better option for long range targets.

Thanks for the input.
The RMR is a bit expensive for me, I was looking at eather a J-Point or FF3, leaning more toward the later

[Meathead9]

Since you said that your 2 options are the FF3 or a BARE Longslide, I think you should consider the total cost of a Longslide before you say the RMR is too expensive. After internals, barrel, guide rod, springs, sights & maybe a Cerakote type finish, you're pretty close to the cost of a milled in RMR.

[nickE10mm]

Originally Posted by gofastman

a Burris FastFire III 3MOA cost about as much as a bare longslide for my 20, which would be better for long range accuracy/hunting

No quesiton about it, go with the RMR (or FF3 if you can't afford the RMR).

I've shot both, owned the G20 longslide and have a Fusion longslide, plus, I've shot reflex sites on G20's and would definitely recommend the reflex site.

It will be more accurate, by far.

[gofastman]

No quesiton about it, go with the RMR (or FF3 if you can't afford the RMR).

I've shot both, owned the G20 longslide and have a Fusion longslide, plus, I've shot reflex sites on G20's and would definitely recommend the reflex site.

It will be more accurate, by far.

well I guess that settles it!
thanks.
I gotta ask, whats so great about the RMR? is it just a better unit all around, or something specific?

[nickE10mm]

Originally Posted by gofastman

well I guess that settles it!
thanks.
I gotta ask, whats so great about the RMR? is it just a better unit all around, or something specific?

The RMR is simply the best reflex sight on the market. Its tough and durable, has the best optics and probably the best service. HOWEVER ... don't worry if you can't afford it. I've not heard a single bad thing about the FF3 (so long as you mill your slide as opposed to using their "one size fits all" mount that is apparently NOT O.S.F.A.)

[gofastman]

do you mean the Burris dovetail mount?

[Ryno12]

This

[gofastman]

Originally Posted by Ryno12

This
Attachment 230136

is that the Burris dovetail mount or something else?

[nickE10mm]

Originally Posted by gofastman

do you mean the Burris dovetail mount?

Yes, that's what I was referring to. Everything I've heard indicates that the one-size-fits-all mounts fit ALL Glock models EXCEPT for the large frame models.

I'd LOVE to be proved wrong. I've heard of guys filing in then to make them work but never heard of any who tried the mount and it worked as sold.

Let me know what you find out! Burris would know...

[Ryno12]

Originally Posted by gofastman

is that the Burris dovetail mount or something else?

Yes, that is the Burris dovetail mount, however, it needed to be milled. It is advertised as "fits all Glocks" but it doesn't fit the G20 or 21.

[nickE10mm]

Originally Posted by Ryno12

Yes, that is the Burris dovetail mount, however, it needed to be milled. It is advertised as "fits all Glocks" but it doesn't fit the G20 or 21.

Anddddd my question is answered. :-/

[nickE10mm]

I've also heard that the fastfires can also use doctor or aim point flat base mounts I could be wrong on the companies. Also, it might only be 2nd gen Fastfires... If you mill a mount you might as well mill the slide, right?

[Yondering]

Originally Posted by gofastman

well I guess that settles it!
thanks.
I gotta ask, whats so great about the RMR? is it just a better unit all around, or something specific?

I own both, and disagree that the RMR is better for long range, if you have good vision. I find that my longslide is better at long distances, because the RMR makes it harder to estimate hold over. The long sight radius negates any accuracy advantage of the RMR, for me, and that's even with the small dot on my RM01.

Then again, it depends a lot on your vision and skill level too. The RMR certainly makes it easier to hit targets between 10-50 yards out. Closer or farther, iron sights are more natural for me, but maybe that's just me.

[gofastman]

The RMR certainly makes it easier to hit targets between 10-50 yards out.

dang, 50 yards seems like long range for a pistol to me!

[Meathead9]

Strange. I figured it would be much easier to estimate holdover using a red dot. With the red dot you can actually see your target while holding over it. Holding over with iron sights, the front sight will cover most of your target (if not all of it). How much holdover does the 10mm need at say 100yds? I would think that if a flat shooting 10mm is zeroed at 25yds, POA for 100yds shouldn't be too much different.

.

[Yondering]

The red dot makes holdover estimation difficult (for me), because there is no size reference. It's easy to learn how much front sight to hold over with iron sights for long range, but the dot doesn't work that way. On my RMR at least, the dot seems to vary in size (and clarity) a little in different lighting conditions, so it doesn't work that well to hold one dot high, for example.

Re. the front sight covering the target, you should be shooting with both eyes open, so the target is still visible. There are different ways to do it, but I keep the rear sight aligned with the target, and hold the front sight over, the amount I need, so depending on the range and caliber, I may be sighting along the top of the front sight, top of the white dot, center of the dot, etc.

Trying to align the rear sight somewhere lower on the front sight, then align the target on the top of the front sight, doesn't work well for me; some teach it, but I don't use that method. I feel it's too complex and less accurate.

[Ryno12]

Originally Posted by Meathead9

Strange. I figured it would be much easier to estimate holdover using a red dot. With the red dot you can actually see your target while holding over it. Holding over with iron sights, the front sight will cover most of your target (if not all of it). How much holdover does the 10mm need at say 100yds? I would think that if a flat shooting 10mm is zeroed at 25yds, POA for 100yds shouldn't be too much different.

.

I'm with you on this one. Two eyes open & holdover is easier with an RDS. My Burris FF is zeroed at 50yds and works great at any range I'm gonna use to.
I looked into an RMR but I couldn't justify $250 more for a "disposable" optic.

[Any Cal.]

You might define accuracy goals and distances, possibly along with expected conditions. If well lit, matte black target sights work well, but in the woods they can disappear easily. Hitting a milk jug @ 60yds isn't difficult w/ decent sights, a 4" group @ 100yds is a whole different discipline. Just having good sights and or a good trigger can be more important than the potential accuracy. You also need to be sure your loads are up to the task, and your own skills. See if you can shoot anything accurately a the distances you want, maybe you have enough gun already. None of this is meant to be a slam, just trying to give some food for thought.

If I had to hit a paper plate at 100yds at dusk with a G20, I think I would use the rail to mount it to a scoped .300 Win Mag....:-)

[PsTaN]

Carver now makes a mount for the FF3 and STS that wouldnt require a slide mill .... it's fairly pricey and wouldnt be as clean .... but reversable if you wanted to remove the optic.

http://bb-enterprise.biz/item180057.ctlg


PsTaN

[gator378]

Originally Posted by gofastman

Thanks for the input.
The RMR is a bit expensive for me, I was looking at eather a J-Point or FF3, leaning more toward the later

I have had the J-Point on the G20 for about six years and never had a problem. Next project is probably a rugged RMR.
I am a huge red dot fan. Too old to see regular sights and the red dots are now the only way to go. Faster, good to 100 yards, and real good in poor lighting.

[nickE10mm]

Originally Posted by gator378

I have had the J-Point on the G20 for about six years and never had a problem. Next project is probably a rugged RMR.
I am a huge red dot fan. Too old to see regular sights and the red dots are now the only way to go. Faster, good to 100 yards, and real good in poor lighting.

I can vouch for this, as I've shot Gators G20. Simply awesome to have the dot.... With more practice I think I could shoot golf ball sized holes at 25-35y ALL DAY LONG.

[Ladd Gardner]

Hey, guys,

Love my Glock 20LS with Burris FFIII. I've hunted with it, and backpacked with it, and exposed it to several thousand rounds of 180gr 1250fps 10mm, and the sight is doing just fine. Very, very happy with this setup.