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Old 07-20-2009, 19:21   #1
nsb22
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nsb's new project.

1988 Stingray Maxum 22' with a 350.

It's a theft recovery, but the only things that were stolen are the pump for the tilt and trim, bilge pump, the light above the outdrive, the gas cap and two cleats off the back.

Engine may or may not be good, last used in '00. All the vinyl needs replaced and 94% of the wood is still solid.

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Old 07-20-2009, 19:21   #2
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Old 07-20-2009, 19:23   #3
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Forgot to say I picked it up for $500 and should only take a thousand give or take to get ship shape.
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Old 07-20-2009, 19:41   #4
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1000 plus another 2500 in labor. Been there done that. It'll come out nice and you'll have a sweet water taxi. Congrats and good luck with her.
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Old 07-20-2009, 19:44   #5
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No labor charges. It'll be me fixing it and the seller said he'd help with the upholstery if I needed it. He's retired.
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Old 07-20-2009, 20:13   #6
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<---used to fix boats for Uncle Sam
<---cringed when you said cleats was missing

Those cleats COULD become a nightmare. I've had precisely 0 success repairing a cleat that had been pulled off. And dont know anyone who has ever really repaired one. Which isnt relevant to you if they just unbolted them BUT! What may be relevant is the difficulty of getting the replacements to bolt down. the thickness of the fiberglass deck does crazy things to bolt alignment. Just a friendly warnin of potential headache! the originals could have been installed with an impact driver. You might need one for the replacements. Test fit first! Lock-tite and bedding compound are your friends!!!!! How's the flotation foam? dry?


<---not a motor guy, a hull/gear guy
<---available for whatever online assistance can be provided
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Old 07-20-2009, 20:19   #7
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It looks like the cleats were unbolted. I happen to have an impact driver due to my love afair with motorcycles.


Flotation foam?


There is a touch of fiberglass that has spider cracked down by where it sits on the trailer.
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Old 07-20-2009, 20:55   #8
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Flotation foam is between the inner and out hull It oughta be dry or your boat will be HEAVY! Spiderwebbing is not a huge deal most of the time. Fiberglass aint all that hard to work. Gelcoat requires some more knowledge. I always painted the boats, no gelcoat
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Old 07-20-2009, 21:34   #9
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I'm going to assume the foam is good as all the wood is good except for the sun deck and rear seats.
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Old 07-20-2009, 22:53   #10
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The swim platforms, foot rests and center hatch are teak. Think I can save them or am I better off getting new? They are pretty dried out and a little piece of the storage cover came off when I opened it.
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Old 07-21-2009, 13:38   #11
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The swim platforms, foot rests and center hatch are teak. Think I can save them or am I better off getting new? They are pretty dried out and a little piece of the storage cover came off when I opened it.
I'd try and save the teak. Baine De Soleil? Soemthin like that. Its the product we put on teak back in the day. If ya take ANY bolt outta the fiberglass put Bedding Compound on when ya replace it! It'll go a long way toward keepin your flotation a floatin!
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Old 07-21-2009, 15:53   #12
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Cool!
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Old 07-21-2009, 20:21   #13
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I copy I'll be heading to scheels and get some bedding compound.

How many yards o' fabric do you suppose it would take?

Would you mind making a small checklist of things I need to checkout?

Can I really use a hydro pump off a snow plow for the tilt/trim?

Anyway I can check the engine to see if it's still good without pulling it?

Any other little tidbits of info you wanna share is cool with me!
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Old 07-21-2009, 20:44   #14
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Thanks Eddie!
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Old 07-22-2009, 13:27   #15
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Getting and using the bedding compound is a good starting point. hydro pump off a plow?? Was the original pump hydraulic? If so...it shouldnt matter as long as the size/power is in the right ranges.

Checks:
1. BILGE PUMP!!!!!!!!!!!! Ya oughta have an electric and a manual. And both should work.
2. Bilge Plug: seals on it good?
3. basic Gear: moorings lines (spliced, not tied!), life jackets that meet USCG specs, fenders with good lines
4. more as I think of them!

Engine: not my strongest suit but...ya oughta be able to turn the crank with a breaker bar to verify it aint locked up. And there should be a water connection that can be used to run the motor with the boat not in the water. Running the motor without the water going through it will be Very Bad For Business.
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Old 07-22-2009, 20:01   #16
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Thank you sir. As far as the hydro pump, is this what I'd be needing:?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCR...ssoriesQ5fGear
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Old 07-22-2009, 20:36   #17
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Thank you sir. As far as the hydro pump, is this what I'd be needing:?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCR...ssoriesQ5fGear
Dunno For that, I'd really go to my local marine store. Too many different possible variations on the whole deal for me to jump in and screw it up for ya. But your local marine store could be a GREAT research tool for your ebay shoppin!
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Old 07-22-2009, 21:11   #18
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I called around to a few of them today. One made me laugh saying all the things that would HAVE to be replaced, even though he hadn't even looked at the boat.

The other one said they'd be able to hook me up with a used pump that they have for around $200.
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Old 07-23-2009, 13:40   #19
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I called around to a few of them today. One made me laugh saying all the things that would HAVE to be replaced, even though he hadn't even looked at the boat.

The other one said they'd be able to hook me up with a used pump that they have for around $200.
I suspect I'd try the used one and forget the other palce existed! LOL!
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Old 07-23-2009, 13:52   #20
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So can I be the chick that points out that nsb already HAS a project vehicle?
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