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Old 01-21-2010, 09:03   #81
Colorado4Wheel
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Originally Posted by kcbrown View Post
I suspect that in my case, having the Dillon makes all the difference in the world. It also helps that I don't shoot in competition (that may change, however).

How many rounds had you made by the time you noticed the kind of wear you saw in the indexing pawl? Sounds like it may have been a defective part or something, unless you had made many tens of thousands of rounds or something (which I rather doubt).


How much slower are you with the push to prime system? If the difference is minimal then I'm curious why you'd prefer the 1050/Loadmaster priming method. If it's not minimal then why is there such a large difference?
It's been too long to rember accurately, but it was 3 lbs of powder or so before I finally gave up.

As far as speed is concerned. I have never used a non-push to prime that worked well enough to really compare. LM jamed in some fashion every 100-200 rds. I am faster with my 550 then my loadmaster by far.
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:23   #82
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Originally Posted by Colorado4Wheel View Post
It's been too long to rember accurately, but it was 3 lbs of powder or so before I finally gave up.

As far as speed is concerned. I have never used a non-push to prime that worked well enough to really compare. LM jamed in some fashion every 100-200 rds. I am faster with my 550 then my loadmaster by far.
You're clearly craving a 1050.

Did you ever post anything on the loadmastervideos.com forums about the problems you were having? I'd be curious what they had to say about them if you did...
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Old 01-21-2010, 17:22   #83
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any chance that once you get it completely running as reliably as it possibly can you could post a step by step thread of how to set it up and mod it from the shipping box it came in to the box of shells that it created. start to finish? using the info from this thread and anything you come up with in the time between now and then. that way its straight forward without all the experimenting and trial and error that has gone on in this thread. it would be like a cleaned up continuation of this thread.

i know its alot for a new member like me to ask of you but i would greatly appreciate it and i believe many many others would also. it would make a great sticky at the top of the forum. from they way you handled this with the attention to every detail i'd say your the perfect person for the job

i was actually moments away from ordering the lee pro 1000 when i decided against it due to the negative reviews and problems posted all over the net. i instead ended up ordering the breech lock challanger but i'd buy the lee pro in a heartbeat and use the challanger as a backup if you decide to do the step by step.
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Old 01-21-2010, 19:16   #84
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I just finished loading 200 rounds. Not a single problem with indexing. Combined with the 400 or so cases I've put through the press since I last put it together, I'd say it's likely I've got the indexing problem licked.

This time I managed to average about 300 rounds an hour, and that was while using my usual leisurely strokes. I was using nickel-plated brass this time, which made the strokes a bit harder than usual. A few cases failed to deprime and caused me to have to stop and examine the priming mechanism to see what had happened, but in each of those cases the primer was unharmed and I was able to use it.

The cases spilled a lot less powder as a result of the shellplate snapping into position than they had previously -- it was almost negligible.


The positioning of the shellplate after the end of the stroke was the same after the run as it was at the beginning of the run (priming pin centered in the shellplate cutout), so the indexing is now completely consistent over time. Aside from dimensional changes resulting from temperature changes, I have no reason to believe that the press will require readjustment to the indexing.

I guess I'll have to get a Loadmaster soon.
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Old 01-21-2010, 21:26   #85
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You get what you pay for.
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:29   #86
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any chance that once you get it completely running as reliably as it possibly can you could post a step by step thread of how to set it up and mod it from the shipping box it came in to the box of shells that it created. start to finish? using the info from this thread and anything you come up with in the time between now and then. that way its straight forward without all the experimenting and trial and error that has gone on in this thread. it would be like a cleaned up continuation of this thread.

i know its alot for a new member like me to ask of you but i would greatly appreciate it and i believe many many others would also. it would make a great sticky at the top of the forum. from they way you handled this with the attention to every detail i'd say your the perfect person for the job
This is a good idea, and I'll start giving thought to exactly how to go about doing it.

There are a lot of things to consider, and part of the problem is that the issues I ran into aren't necessarily the issues someone else would run into, and it's difficult for me to anticipate what problems some else might run into. Nevertheless, I think the modifications I made are useful and increase the reliability of the press, and there are some general principles which, if followed, I think would help anyone trying to set up one of these.

I may have to take some additional pictures to illustrate my points as well.


Quote:
i was actually moments away from ordering the lee pro 1000 when i decided against it due to the negative reviews and problems posted all over the net. i instead ended up ordering the breech lock challanger but i'd buy the lee pro in a heartbeat and use the challanger as a backup if you decide to do the step by step.
Oddly enough, the reviews I've seen of the Pro 1000 have largely been positive. The ones on Midway are generally good, for instance (noticeably better than those for the Loadmaster, it seems, though the Loadmaster does have its share of good reviews, probably by people who were very careful when setting it up and didn't have any defective parts to contend with).
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:38   #87
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part of the determinting factor in the choice was i just started reloading a couple months ago and just got everything down using a single press and i saw tons of people that had been reloading alot longer than me saying how it was a major pain to setup, and a full time job keeping it working.

but at the rate i shoot and rate i reload i definatly need a progressive for atleast 10mm and .223. im just getting ready to start loading for the 10mm but i was spending a couple hours a day 3 days a week to be able to go to the range twice a week to shoot groups with my AR. i'd also like to be able to load faster that way i can not only load what i need for the range but a little extra each time to store for SHTF scenarios.
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:25   #88
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You get what you pay for.
Well, you always pay for what you get, but you don't always get what you pay for!

In this case, you're paying a bit more in terms of personal labor in exchange for a lower price. For some people, that's a worthwhile trade, while for others it isn't.

If out-of-the-box reliability is what you're after, then you want a Dillon. Even the Hornady LNL seems to have its out-of-the-box problems (look at DoctaGlocka's experience, for instance). And even with a Dillon, you'll need to go over the press and tighten everything up because some things come a little loose from shipping and can cause problems later on (ask me how I know).

But you pay for that out-of-the-box reliability.


The Pro 1k is my second progressive press. I got it so I wouldn't have to do a caliber conversion on my Dillon 650 all the time. I strongly considered the Dillon Square Deal B, but became intrigued with the Pro 1000 after reading about it a bit.

The thing about the Pro 1000 is that, when you get right down to it, it is a very simple press and yet, at the same time, about as full featured as any progressive press except for the number of stations. The casefeeder is an excellent example of that simplicity: a case pusher which moves along a slide as a result of being connected to the press via a pivoting link, a set of 4 tubes that can manually be rotated into position to drop cases in front of the case pusher, and a case collator which is just a bowl with 4 holes that sits on top of the tubes.

Simplicity and reliability usually go hand in hand as long as one is careful to respect the limitations involved. Making any piece of equipment run with maximum reliably requires some understanding of how it works, so that one will know where the limits are.

The simplicity of the Pro 1000 is the reason I fully expected to be able to get the press operating reliably. It's been an interesting journey to get to that point, but I believe I have been vindicated. Of course, only time will tell.


I expect the Loadmaster would be more of a handful, because it is not as simple as the Pro 1000.
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Old 01-22-2010, 10:31   #89
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part of the determinting factor in the choice was i just started reloading a couple months ago and just got everything down using a single press and i saw tons of people that had been reloading alot longer than me saying how it was a major pain to setup, and a full time job keeping it working.

but at the rate i shoot and rate i reload i definatly need a progressive for atleast 10mm and .223. im just getting ready to start loading for the 10mm but i was spending a couple hours a day 3 days a week to be able to go to the range twice a week to shoot groups with my AR. i'd also like to be able to load faster that way i can not only load what i need for the range but a little extra each time to store for SHTF scenarios.

The real question is: just what is your financial situation for this? Would a Dillon stretch your budget?

For me, the Pro 1000 is cheap enough that I could afford to lose the investment in it if it didn't work out. If that's the case for you, then dive right in (but see below). If not, then I think we need to talk about what your options really are, and for that we'll need to know how much you can really spend.

The Pro 1000 is about $160 from Midway, complete with dies. You really want the case collator, so add another $12 to that. Figure another $30 for a reasonable set of spare parts (the press comes with some but it's relatively minimal). I ordered about $70 worth of spares from Lee but I got enough to last a lifetime or two, and it includes some things that basically shouldn't wear out but which could be lost or something (e.g., the spring and ball used to locate the shellplate, the indexing column, a couple of shellplate drive bolts, etc.).

Some of the spare parts are available from Midway but some, such as a replacement ratchet gear, are only available from Lee, so you'll probably want to get what spares you can from Midway and order the rest from Lee since you're already paying shipping from Midway anyway.

Substitute whatever place you would buy the Pro 1k from for "Midway" in the above.


The thing is, you're going to be loading for rifle. For that, you're going to want a press with more than just 3 stations. For one thing, it's absolutely something I would not do on a progressive without a powder cop die of some kind, and that alone will eat a station.

The Loadmaster is a 4 station press in practice, not a 5 station one as advertised. And since you're looking for good, step by step instructions for setup that will result in a reliable press, the Loadmaster may prove riskier than you'd like (I highly recommend you go check out loadmastervideos.com, both for the setup instructions and for the forums). But if the Loadmaster is all you can afford then that may be what you'll have to go with.

So again, what's your budget like for this? If you're willing to limit yourself to pistol on a progressive then the Pro 1000 will work for you, but the fact that you shoot a decent amount of rifle would have me looking for something more flexible, like a Hornady LNL or a Dillon 550 (or, better, a 650, but that may be well outside of your price range).

ETA: If you're seriously budget constrained, don't overlook the Lee Classic Turret press for this. You'll be able to get some 200 rounds an hour out of it, and it will reportedly do rifle all day long. It can hold 4 dies, so with the right setup you'd be able to use a powder cop die. About the only thing you wouldn't necessarily be able to do on the press is trim cases.

Last edited by kcbrown; 01-22-2010 at 13:07..
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Old 01-22-2010, 10:50   #90
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the thing I have found that helps a lot on the LM is to make sure the arms that position the cases on the shell plate are tight aand pushing the cases all the way into the slots on the shell plate. when you get cocked primers on a LM,look at the arm.

My 1k and LM run very well.
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Old 01-22-2010, 13:09   #91
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the thing I have found that helps a lot on the LM is to make sure the arms that position the cases on the shell plate are tight aand pushing the cases all the way into the slots on the shell plate. when you get cocked primers on a LM,look at the arm.

My 1k and LM run very well.
How many rounds would you say you've gotten from your Loadmaster so far? More importantly, on average, how many rounds do you manage to produce without some sort of stoppage due to a press malfunction?
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Old 01-22-2010, 13:35   #92
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How many rounds would you say you've gotten from your Loadmaster so far? More importantly, on average, how many rounds do you manage to produce without some sort of stoppage due to a press malfunction?
looking at the amount of 40sw bullets i have bought,I ahve loaded 7k 40 through my Lm and 8k 9mm.

Very often can get 500 without any problems as long as I keep the primers full and the arms tight.

My Lm was ordered as a 40sw and to convert it to 9mm You are supposed to use the small lider for the caes feed. too cheap to get it so on the 9mm I get a little more problems with the case feeder.

Like many have said,"BOLT THAT THING DOWN" or you will ahve problems

Last edited by Wash-ar15; 01-22-2010 at 13:37..
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:20   #93
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You're clearly craving a 1050.

Did you ever post anything on the loadmastervideos.com forums about the problems you were having? I'd be curious what they had to say about them if you did...
The site didn't exist. I did talk to Darrin and Uncle Don via this forum.
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:21   #94
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To me the real question is LM/Pro 1000/LCT. Speed vs Simplicity. Oh the agony.
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Old 01-23-2010, 10:47   #95
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The site didn't exist. I did talk to Darrin and Uncle Don via this forum.
I think quite a lot has been learned since then about how to properly set up a Loadmaster and keep it running. It would be most interesting if you decided to revisit the Loadmaster to see if any of that makes a difference.
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Old 01-23-2010, 10:53   #96
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I sold the press. I tried all the "tricks of the time" Not sure what else new has come around. But I sized in station #2, never let the trough go really low, checked indexing, shellplate alignment, dirt, debured the slider and the chute. Not sure what else, it's been a while. I never broke a chain, never had a issue with the casefeeder. Besides priming, for me the press was perfectly fine if not a little beyond my expectations. I do read a lot of complaints from people and it's obvious they are being ham handed or just not careful. But I did try everything. Even when new and working at it's best it's not nearlly as reliable as my 550. As it got older, it got even worse. Every issue resulted in the priming slider getting nicked. So every time something flipped you had to wonder "did I just damage that slider? Do I need to pull it out and check it yet again?" That gets old really fast.
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Old 01-23-2010, 12:05   #97
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One of these days I'm going to treat myself to a new 1000 so I can load multiple calibers without changing things. I know caliber changes are easy, but I'm almost as lazy as Jack. I'll shoot whatever caliber the press is set on so I don't have to change things over.

I have the money to buy a new one, but I'm cheaper than I am lazy.
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Old 01-30-2010, 07:52   #98
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One thing of note: the spring tension underneath the steel ball that's used to align the shellplate is too high for loading 9mm. It causes the shellplate to snap into position with too much gusto, and the result is that a small amount of powder will jump out of the case and land on the shellplate. Since this press is relatively sensitive to such contamination if it gets into the priming system, this isn't a trivial matter.

Oddly enough, the Dillon 650 has the same issue but that is easy enough
Yeah this is a common problem, I have made it part of my routine to reach in with a bullet ready but place my finger over the top of the casing till it pops in place, I then visually verify the powder level and place the bullet and start over. A big thing it prevents by doing this is the powder that pops out will eventually fall and stick into the groove of the shellplate, when this happens the casing will not seat all the way back and you will begin having problems with the casing lining up under the dies. Periodically clean the grooves as a maintenance.
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Old 01-30-2010, 08:07   #99
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I took 25 cases out of a group of 100 I was going to reload (40SW). I put them in a box and hit them with two quick bursts of furniture polish, maybe one second total spraying. I threw the other 75 in the box and shook them around and ran them throught the 1000. The furniture polish really reduced the effort to pull the handle. I think it saves the pivot points in the linkage a lot of stress too. I'm going to continue to load like this from now on and can't figure out how I got away from it.
Why would you lube pistol cartridges to begin with?
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Old 01-30-2010, 08:28   #100
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First, I'm not knocking anyone's press. Just listening to all the input about the 1000 Pro and other machines makes me really grateful that I have a Dillon 550. Also have a 1050. My Dillon 550 was my first press and was advised not to buy a 'progressive' as my first press. My dealer said 'baloney'. I watched a lot of forums for months listening to all the problems with various loaders before deciding on the Dillon. From the first day I set it up NEVER had a problem with it not working flawlessly. Only problems were of my own creation. Inexperience with things caused my problems. Never a powder drop problem, primer problem, etc. Of course you pay more for this machine over other machines so that it does work without spending most of your time getting the kinks out of it or 'fixing' it so it does work. I feel that a reloader should never have to be tinkered with to make it function properly considering what we're making here. My 1050 requires a bit more attention to detail since it has 8 stations to watch. All in all, presses are what they are and paying more for something that works out of the box without fussing is my choice. Hope no one takes offense in my remarks.
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