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Old 11-27-2011, 16:18   #21
shadow_dog
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One thing I learned the hard way was to check the barrel for bulges. I got a good deal on a Gen1 G17. I gave it a quick look over and bought it. Took it to the Marietta Oh GSSF match to get updated. The armorer found it had a bulged barrel. Now I know to field strip the pistol and drop the barrel back thru the muzzle end of the slide to check for bulges. Mine in particular was bulged right past the chamber, it didn't show on a normal cycle of the slide. Glock offered to replace the barrel, but I would have to send in the bulged barrel. In the end I bought a used Glock barrel and kept the original barrel.
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Old 11-27-2011, 16:53   #22
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Check the serial number list here on GT if you are looking to avoid a perceived issue such as late model gen 3's.
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Old 01-10-2012, 15:29   #23
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1)CHECK ID
Pretty much what everyone stated.
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Old 01-21-2012, 16:53   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwmpb View Post
4. Check recoil spring by... pull[ing] the slide back and slowly let forward to see how slide goes into full battery.
When I bought my used Glock, I did this. I also did it quickly. Each time, the gun functioned just fine, including locking back on an empty magazine as it's supposed to. What I didn't realize, however, (because I wasn't familiar with how all the 'parts & pieces' should look) was that the end of the 'captured recoil spring/guide rod assy' was missing so that the spring was no longer 'captured.' While it didn't effect the gun's functioning, it was nevertheless broken... Only a quick field strip would have shown me that.

If I had known, I would have still bought the gun but I would have had a great bargaining chip with which to drive the great price I paid even lower...

I guess the saying is true-- "Knowledge is power."
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Old 03-14-2012, 21:15   #25
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It's a Glock, not a Hi-Point. There is no bad Glock, some are better than others.
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Old 04-05-2012, 22:50   #26
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The G21 I just bought from Bud's Police Supply has the "1" stamped before the serial number on the slide. Did some research and apparently its a frame recall from 01-02. Glock says its fine and don't worry, but I'd keep an eye out for that. I don't know if it affects the overall vale though, its a police trade in.
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:10   #27
roadkill46
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hi points have a lifetime, no questions asked warranty and it does not matter if you are the first or the 1000 owner. jus sayin! (995's are fun guns!)
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Old 04-06-2012, 17:15   #28
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Shoot under water.J/K!
Your list looks good. I like to Check recoil spring by aiming gun verticle (unloaded ofcourse) no magazine, pull slide back and slowly let forward to see how slide goes into full battery. Doing this with a new gun will give a good point of ref. May have to upgrade to a new style trigger bar being a 4256-1 vs. old style 4256.
+1 to adding this to the list. From what I understand, this is the glock armorer's method to checking recoil spring wear.
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Old 04-07-2012, 05:45   #29
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Correct.
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:22   #30
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Yea i dont see a dealer letting you cycle ammo. But could always ask if they have snap caps. Could help with a function check.
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Old 06-11-2012, 19:10   #31
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hi points have a lifetime, no questions asked warranty and it does not matter if you are the first or the 1000 owner. jus sayin! (995's are fun guns!)
Not to derail but they sent me new grips because I screwed them up trying to stipple them and they broke, I offered to pay and they would not accept the money. Good CS.

p.s. I like my Glock better
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Old 06-13-2012, 19:54   #32
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I looked at 1 once that looked like the frame had been attacked with chemicals it was melted. Other than that , I bought a Glock in a ziplock bag mismatched missing parts . I took it to Glock they rebuilt it for free and made it better than new . I am a happy customer
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Old 06-13-2012, 21:03   #33
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Check firing pin safety pull trigger on empty chamber hold trigger shake gun next to ear should rattle now cycle slide should not rattle, some other little things to check. Most problems other than damage slide or frame can be fixed for not a lot of money
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:32   #34
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Not to sounds like a total newb here, but I have been adding a few glocks to my stable recently, and the presence of the "copper" colored lube is from the factory correct? I put a used 19 on law away yesterday and it looked like new and had the copper stuff all over the slide rails. It looked like it had never been fired, or just had a really good cleaning.


ETA: sorry for bringing up an old thread

Last edited by dunndealin; 09-05-2012 at 08:34..
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:47   #35
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It is factory but some people continue to re-use it I would assume? Sounds like you have a nice weapon!
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Old 12-01-2012, 23:09   #36
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An somewhat unrelated item. I am not sure where you live. But her in IL, the no carry land, even private sales need a three day waiting period. A LE was hassled on this a while back. So purchase but pick up three days latter? Not sure how we are expected to prove this?
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:17   #37
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hi points have a lifetime, no questions asked warranty and it does not matter if you are the first or the 1000 owner. jus sayin! (995's are fun guns!)

I agree, My C9 hi point runs great and has actually saved my life while my $2000+ handguns sat in a safe at home.
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Old 02-15-2013, 20:00   #38
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In the near future, I will be looking at my first potential purchase of a used Glock (I've always bought new) and I'm curious as to what you would specifically look for when inspecting used Glocks (or any gun for that matter) prior to purchase. I will probably not have a chance to shoot this gun before making my decision. My checklist currently includes:

1. Visual inspection of exterior for damage, scars, wear.
2. Dry fire for function.
3. Load mags for function.
4. Cycle loaded mag through gun by racking slide.
5. Field strip
6. Inspect internals for cleanliness, wear.
7. Check documentation of test fire date, S/N, matching numbers
8. Check for aftermarket internals.

Your suggestions to add to this list will be appreciated.
Remember the recoil spring test:

-Make sure the gun is unloaded (I know this goes w/o saying, but...)

-Dry fire the gun.

-Hold the trigger back and pull the slide back all the way and hold it.

-Point the muzzle straight up and SLOWLY let the slide go forward.

-The gun should go completely into battery. If it doesn't, you need a new recoil spring assembly.
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Old 03-29-2013, 19:48   #39
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Originally Posted by bmwmpb View Post
Great thread. Thanks for all of info. I would feel pretty comfortable purchasing a used gun. Utilizing all of the posts, here's the current check sheet:


1. Visual inspection of exterior for damage, scars, wear.
2. Look for hogged out pin holes in the frame. Press them out and put them back to make sure everything is correct.
3. Check the breach face. If it has a inward dimple around the firing pin hole, this will indicate the pistol has been shot alot, maybe with hot hand loads.
4. Check recoil spring by aiming gun verticle (unloaded), no magazine, pull slide back and slowly let forward to see how slide goes into full battery.
5. Load mags for function.
6. Cycle loaded mag through gun by racking slide.
7. Dry fire for function. With the trigger held back, push on the top of the chamber. If there is a lot of movement, it's pretty worn. If there is just a little, less so, but keep in mind, even the new guns will have a little play when you do this.
8. Field strip
9. Inspect internals for cleanliness, wear.
10. Check for aftermarket internals.
11. Run your pinched fingers down the barrel feeling for bulges.
12. Look for any rings or pitting IN the barrel.
13. Make sure the extractor is not broken
14.Check documentation of test fire date, S/N, matching numbers
Looking at a used 17. Can someone explain or show a pic of the breach face, I'm not exactly sure what I should be looking for. Also pulling the trigger and holding it back and pushing on chamber should this be done with the slide on or off? Is there anyone that can shed more light on these two "tests"..thanks
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Old 04-01-2013, 20:00   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glocked-up View Post
Looking at a used 17. Can someone explain or show a pic of the breach face, I'm not exactly sure what I should be looking for. Also pulling the trigger and holding it back and pushing on chamber should this be done with the slide on or off? Is there anyone that can shed more light on these two "tests"..thanks
Top photo from here.


The breech face is part of the slide. In the photo, the oblong slot is where the firing pin protrudes. The depression is caused by excessive pressures.

Valuable Info


Other damage to the breech face can be caused by hot gasses bypassing the primers (gun is a 1911):
Valuable Info


A thread showing several more damaged breeches here.

Last edited by cobalt327; 04-01-2013 at 20:08..
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