[Nicoroshi]

I have bent flats before for four different builds but have never tackled a milled re-weld before. I have been welding for over 20 years , and I saw kits at Apex for Yugo M70 underfolder de-milled rifles, and figured WTF. I have heard that some of the Yugo kits have shot out barrels, and or really bad pitting from corrosive ammo. New barrels are only a touch over $100 so I took my chances, and ordered one having always wanted a Yugo.
Much to my surprise I got a very nice kit. Very little surface rust, only some minor pitting on the carrier, and piston, and best of all after I cleaned the barrel I saw deep lands, and grooves along with a perfect crown, and a bullet test that looked like this>>>


Very nice for the price IMHO, and I guess I got lucky on the kit they sent me.
Here's the kit as I got it>>>



The wood needs some TLC as well as a few other parts but it should make a fine rifle, and fun project.

I will update this thread as I continue work on this kit.

I de-milled the rear receiver stub tonight. All parts covered in cosmoline (thin layer) so I cleaned as I de-milled. Everything is in excellent condition.

[toshbar]

So what do you do? Order one of these parts kits and a receiver and put it together with a couple of rivets? Is there anything else needed?

[DrMaxit]

try shooting it like that.... whats the worst that could happen? I'm sure its lightweight for sure.

[Nicoroshi]

@toshbar

You can order, and DROS a new receiver......if you have about $350 + fees to add to what you already spent on the kit. They do not require rivets as it's a milled receiver. You're thinking of a pressed 4130 (1mil or 1.6mil for Yugos) receiver like the ones available from NODAK Spud or one you bend yourself from AKBuilder or Tapco (to name a few).
I have bent my own flats for four builds to date like the ones that would require rivets or screws.
Like this one>>>
Start [One rusty 1979 Romy "G" kit]


Finish One resurrected 1979 Romy "G" with Ironwood Designs Maple furniture (screw build)>>>


And in action>>>>
http://firingsquad.us/albums/BLM_Lan...a_kneeling.mov




I am going to re-weld it this Yugo kit
VZ58 from other forums mills, and sells repair plates for these for $70.
There are some laws that you must abide by when building one however.
922(r):
You cannot import a whole firearm (anymore) so the rebuild needs to be built using 'no more than 10 imported parts'
An AK has 16 parts one of which is the front trunnion. A milled receiver does not have a front trunnion as it's part of the receiver so I need to use 5 US made parts in my rebuild to be 922(r) compliant. My parts are trigger, hammer, disconnector, receiver, and muzzle device/ attachment (I will explain this later as to why this part).

NFA requirements:
(in CA where I am at) 30" minimum length with minumum 16" barrel.
I want to keep the underfolder functional but that puts the rifle's overall length at 25 3/4" (felony) so I am permanently attaching a 5" muzzle device (fake can actually) to meet the 30" minimum length in CA. It already has a 16 1/4" long barrel so no worries there.
(CA only) SB23:
A center fire rifle with the ability to accept a detachable magazine cannot have a pistol grip or the foldable stock so I will affix a mag locking device (one that requires a tool to remove the mag.....and a bullet is defined as a tool.....hence bullet button), and a 10 round magazine (SB23 also states that a fixed magazine rifle cannot use more than a 10 round mag).

I know.....CA laws suck but this is, and has always been my home.

Now the good news.
It is perfectly legal to build a firearm for your own use (Yes, even in CA).
The parts kits are NOT a firearm (no receiver) so can be mailed directly to your door.
And the kicker. Technically this rifle doesn't exist (as far as paperwork goes), and is 100% legal.

My suggestion to anyone wishing to build one is do the research on your federal, state, and local laws then talk to the guys on the forums (AKForums, AR15.com, etc) that are builders. They will have very helpful, and insightful advice, and linked tutorials on 'how to'. Realize that it is a project though. The Romy above took me about 40 hours of work from start to finish. There's nothing like shooting a piece of history that you've personally resurrected though.

[toshbar]

Why are the rifles chopped up like that? For import laws right?

couldn't they just grind off and punch the rivets out and ship the parts kit and reciever separately? or is the receiver itself the problem and the only part non-importable.

[Nicoroshi]

The BATF decided (and specified exactly) how to de-mill rifles being imported.
The receiver IS the firearm. The rest is just a bucket of parts. Destroy the receiver in the manner that they do, and everything else is still good but it's no longer a firearm.

I had some time after work today to weld up the jig I will be using for aligning the receiver chunks when I re-weld them. It is important that the jig be flat, and square so I filed the 1/2" plate steel scrap flat, and used a piece of tube steel.


Bottom view:


To give you an idea of how I will use it:



I also took some time to de-mill the rear receiver chunk so it could sit flat on the jig.



Next I will be cutting the receiver pieces square to the top rail, and beveling for weld along with scraping the wood, and re-finishing.
My repair plates are on their way so these are things I can do in the mean time.

[Nicoroshi]

Did some more work on the rifle today.
Stripped the furniture, and found that the lower hand guard was a much lighter color than the upper. I stained both with walnut stain, and now the color matches much better.
Will let dry overnight, and then 3 coats of deft clear coat for them.

I also polished the carrier, and noticed that the piston was looser than my Romy kits so I took a look at how the carrier impacted on the front of the receiver, and noticed a 1/32" gap on the opposite side from the charging handle. I know it is rare for both sides to hit, and that the charging handle side is more important as there is more meat on that side to handle the impact of cycling but I wasn't just gonna let this go on this build.
I broke out the welder, and ran a bead on the receiver to build up the metal in that area then filed it down (with many checks of impact using a black marker) until both sides impacted evenly. I am pretty proud of how it came out.






I also drilled the hole in the muzzle device so that it would catch the detent on the front sight base. When screwed full on with the detent in the hole it will be a permanent modification as you will not be able to get to the detent to depress it. This will get me my 30" minimum length for CA legality.



I also took the time to bandsaw, and file the receiver chunks square tothe top rail to make fit up of the repair plates easier when I re-weld.



Furniture has been stained Walnut, and I am coating with 3 coats of Deft clear coat today.
Pictures of that when complete.

Just awaiting my repair plates now...........

[Nicoroshi]

Not the best refinishing job but a huge improvement from the way I received them.
Couple of deep gouges in the top cover that I was not able to remove but I am looking at that as 'character'.



I dyed some Paracord black for the cheek weld area of the stock.
Now just awaiting my repair plates to continue.

[Nicoroshi]

Milled repair plates came in today, and I will be welding this weekend!

[TheGrimReaper]

Man, this is neat keep us posted please. You really have peaked my interest!!!

[Nicoroshi]

Originally Posted by TheGrimReaper

Man, this is neat keep us posted please. You really have peaked my interest!!!

Not a problem GrimReaper.
Took a break today, and went shooting with a couple of old friends so welding, and fit up will commence tomorrow.
I will take pictures, and post on my progress as it happens.

[Nicoroshi]

Started fit-up, and welding today.
Finished half of the first side.
A ton of work compared to building off a bent flat or a complete milled receiver but it's coming out well.



Next I will be trimming the right side interior rail, and welding it in place. Then I can cut the ejector rail to shape, weld it into the left repair plate, and finish off welding the sides.

[Nicoroshi]

Continuing on the welding today, and have both interior rails welded up, and both side plates welded inside, and out.




Next I will be grinding the welds nearly flat, and finishing with a file, cutting the excess off the bottom, locating the FCG pin holes, and drilling then finally closing up the bottom, and cutting out for the trigger, mag catch holes, and grip mounting holes.
More pictures as I progress......

[Nicoroshi]

Cleaned up the welds inside, and out, and trimmed the bottom.
Looking more like a receiver now

[Nicoroshi]

Took some time after work today to fit the carrier, and bolt to the receiver.
This involves filing both top rails evenly until the carrier fits, and slides the full length by just tilting the receiver.
I then cut the notch in the upper rail for the bolt, and trimmed the interior rails to fit the bolt as well as smoothed out the rail connections between the repair plates, and the existing receiver (very minor filing since my layout was really close). Shaped the ejector so it would leave as much of itself as possible passing through the bolt without cocking the bolt to the right side as it passed.
Went one step further and fit the top dust cover to the receiver as well. I did my layout for overall length minus 1/32" so I could file the cover to fit rattle free.









The carrier glides smoothly from back to locked into battery by just tilting the receiver (like it should) with minimal side to side play.

Tomorrow I will lay out the FCG pin holes, and safety holes, and drill them.
I am dropping in a Tapco G2 FCG, and will need to trim the sides of the hammer to fit into the new receiver (it's 1/8" thick 4130 steel on each side so the Tapco hammer is too wide to fit inside as well as leave room for the retaining plate).

I will update again when I have more to share.

[theTactician]

nice job sir.

[space_weazel]

This is 100% bad ass, and makes me want to get a lot better at welding than I am.

[Nicoroshi]

Originally Posted by space_weazel

This is 100% bad ass, and makes me want to get a lot better at welding than I am.

Thank you Sirs.
It's a ton of work, a lot of measuring (I use a digital caliper quite a bit) but man what a blast to resurrect a piece of history, and even more fun to enjoy shooting it.

As for welding I sold my SyncroWave 250 Tig, and Stick welder last year, and bought myself a little 220v Mig welder at Harbor Freight for $170.
Mig welding is really easy compared to Tig, and IMHO even easier than stick welding.
Practice makes perfect so grab yourself some scrap, and buzz away. You'll get the feel for it rather quickly. I can tell by the sound the weld makes when I weld how to adjust it to make the bead smooth, and penetrate like I want. Think bacon frying in a pan.
I am running a shield gas of 75% Argon, and 25% CO2 with ER70s-6 wire.
It is mild steel wire, and I am welding 4130 steel (ChromeMoly) but the welds are to hold the rails in place, and the receiver together. Where they are welded does not need to be hardened to withstand the abuse of the rifle being fired.
The piece of the front of the receiver that came with the kit is heat treated, and contains the locking lugs . It also contained the rear of the receiver that will take the impact of the carrier when cycling (also a heat treated piece).
The only parts I am adding that will need to be heat treated are the ejector, and FCG pin holes which are 4130 steel, and can be treated with some Mapp gas, and a bucket of water.

The kit was $250, and I bought the repair plates for $73 from another gun forum. With 922(r) FCG ($40), and muzzle device ($30). Then some misc parts (paracord, screws, nuts, sling, Rit dye, wood finishing stuff, Dremel disks, cold blue, etc) I figure I am into it for about $450-$500. Not bad for a project to keep me out of trouble for a while, and a milled Yugo M70 underfolder rifle that I built myself.

Looking forward to drilling some holes tomorrow after work, and fitting the safety, and FCG so I can close the bottom of the receiver up.

[space_weazel]

I keep looking forward to having a garage that I can put a 6' Bridgeport, a lathe, new welding setup and obviously everything else......

Someday....

[CarlosC]

Just amazing. I can't wait to see how it turns out, but following along as the gun is resurected is very rewarding as well.

[TheGrimReaper]

Very, Very Nice. Coming along very nicely!!!

[Nicoroshi]

Did layout for, and drilled FCG holes, and safety holes.
Had to counter sink FCG pin holes so the retainer catch groove on the pin protruded far enough into the receiver to catch the retainer.

Fit hammer, and trigger to receiver (had to shave the sides as they were too wide to fit into the thick receiver).
Fit the safety, and had to weld a small piece to the base of it to make it long enough to engage the back of the trigger, and file to fit.


Long story short is I am ready (finally) to close up the bottom of this bad boy, and cut the trigger hole as well as drill for trigger guard retaining screws, and cut for the mag well.

Coming along nicely, and with any luck I should have it put together enough so I can take it apart to heat treat the FCG holes, and ejector as well as blue the receiver, and other misc parts (mostly touch up on the rest of the rifle) by this weekend.








Ever seen an AK without a bottom?

[Nicoroshi]

Welded in base plate, cleaned welds, fit mag well ('0' mag wobble :D) , and did layout for trigger hole, and cut.
The base metal I welded in is .065 in thickness, and I will have to do some work on the trigger, and the inside of the receiver to keep the hammer spring from binding on the bottom, and allow for the trigger to swivel enough for good grip on disconnector. Because of the thicker metal the back, and front of the trigger does not allow for full (enough) motion of the trigger.
Some creative dremel , and file work with many checks for function tomorrow, and I will be back in business.

[Nicoroshi]

Drilled, and tapped holes for trigger guard, and mag catch.
Did some custom dremel, and file work to account for thicker metal of the base I welded in, and to tune the trigger per the tutorial on 'Adjusting an AK Trigger' on Arizona Response Systems under notes/ AK Notes / Adjusting an AK Trigger.





After dry function testing I made a short video of a function test in my garage (wife filming) of carrier function, disconnector reset, and three round load, and ejection of hollow points.
Muzzle device attached for 30 3/4" overall length, and no pistol grip attached so I could work it without a mag lock. 10/30 magazine. Gotta stay legal you know.
(never mind the house slippers )

http://firingsquad.us/albums/Nico-Pe...ction_test.mov

I will be stripping the rifle down, and heat treating the FCG pin holes as well as the ejector then final sanding of the exterior of the re-built receiver for bluing tomorrow.
Trying to schedule a live fire test in the near future as this project is almost done.

[Nicoroshi]

Stripped, Heat treated, and final sanded.
Couple of tiny scratches still visible but it's an AK after all.
I am pretty happy with how it's shaping up, and I will be bluing it tomorrow.

Next pictures should be of a complete rifle.