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Old 01-09-2010, 10:05   #61
Hoser
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If you get too tall looking inside a case to verify powder can be a pain... Even worse if you have a strong mount.
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Old 01-09-2010, 10:13   #62
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Originally Posted by Cobra64 View Post
This one?

Reloading

That's Jack's drive.

He hired an illegal at $6.50 an hour to stripe the end of his driveway.

There's not an inch of asphalt within almost a mile of my place. Real men live on dirt... oh, BTW, is the recession over... where can I get a job that pays $6.50 an hour. My God, talk about inflation.

Jack
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Old 01-09-2010, 10:17   #63
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Iím 6í2Ē my bench is 42Ē With the Dillon 550 and 650 with strong mount it is at the right height for me. My Mec 650 is a little too height and my Rock Chucker is a little too low.
Most of my loading is on the Dillon, so the other ones I can live with. About all I do with the Rock Chucker is depriming screwed up primers anyway. For The Mec 650 I have been trashing over the idea in building a box too stand on. Well see when I really start loading a couple of hundred rounds back on it too decide what I want too do.
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Old 01-09-2010, 10:47   #64
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Originally Posted by Hozer View Post
If you get too tall looking inside a case to verify powder can be a pain... Even worse if you have a strong mount.
The point of a 42 inch high bench is not to use a strong mount. It looks like your 1050's are on a 36" cabinet. That puts them about the same height as a 550 on a strong mount. I am going to need to hold off on anything till I decide what if anything I do with my 550/casefeeder/whatever setup. If I get a 650 (just for discussion) I could set it up to be at my ideal height, no strong mount needed. There are plenty of ways to get the bullet tray where you want it with out buying a bullet tray/strong mount setup. I also find with the right countertop setup it does not flex. But a basic countertop with out proper support does flex a little to much and probably benifits from the strong mount. I may end up just ditching that whole idea and going with a more universal height of 38" (lets say), put the presses on strong mounts and then any single stage would work well on a stool. I will have to fiddle with all this before I make anything.
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Old 01-09-2010, 10:56   #65
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There is more than a little truth in the statement, 'Man plans and God laughs'. Although I've built, rebuilt and then re-re-built many benches over the years for some reason I always settled on 40" high. Seemed to work pretty well for me... keeping in mind that they only one who really notices the difference of an inch or two is a woman. (A totally unreasonable and unrealistic vertical height demand that only Ron Jeramy can meet so why even worry about it.)

When I settled on the workable height of my benches I was 6' 3 1/4 " tall and 25 pounds lighter. (Envision a Greek warrior but make him more macho to the 4th power and you'll get the idea.)

When I settled on the 40 inches I failed to take into account the unexpected... quick, severe and irreversible shrinkage. (Yes, that too but it has no effect on my BULLET LOADING, and you can't buy a pill to increase the height of your benches.)

I have learned first hand that when bone cancer causes all of your vertebrae, (except the cervical) to collapse you get shorter... a lot shorter.

My last doctor's visit revealed that I am apparently losing the battle of the vertical war... going from the manly height of 6' 3 1/4" to just slightly over 5' 11 1/2". Pretty soon I'll be able to walk under the coffee table and check for cobwebs

My highly educated Oncologist, (I base this assumption on all of the medical degrees hanging on his office wall... although I don't know why they're all in foreign languages) probably explained my prognosis best.

He asked me if I'd ever been 4' 6" tall... I explained to him that on my way to 6' 3 1/4 " I had probably zoomed through 4' 6". He glanced down at my chart, made some notes, looked up at me, initiated a well practiced and highly professional sigh and said... "Good, looks like you're going to get there again." I can't believe I actually pay this guy money!

When you build your benches don't worry as much about the 'perfect' height... worry more about how you'll learn to adapt to changing conditions.

One upside is that everyday a big screen flat panel looks more and more like a drive in movie screen.
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Old 01-09-2010, 11:49   #66
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Yep, I was just thinking about that. I can always make a mount to raise a press but can't easily lower the bench. I know I don't want it 36". I want it higher so that I can stand and not stoop over at all. I also konw I can easily use some steel plate to make a mount to raise any press to the height I want. If I dont want to use steel, I just use LVL and stack and glue it. Uncle Bobs post about his many presses all require different heights really got me thinking.
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Old 01-09-2010, 12:35   #67
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If you watch the videos on You Tube of all of these people reloading on different pressís. Just about everyone one of them are bending over when they pull the handle down. The height that I have for me I can look inside the case for powder and I do not do any bending. The Rock Chucker if I used it enough I could build like a strong mount for it. The shotgun reloading Iím just now getting back into skeet shooting. As for right now I do not plain on shooting that like I use too 25 years ago. So only shooting 75 to maybe 150 rds a week of skeet, I thank I can live with the height. Gun cleaning and other things that I do on the reloading table are okay. The biggest thing is the height for the Dillon 650. I got the post from the Dillon SL900 shot bucket. I cut about 3Ē off the top of that post so the case feeder was not so high and also that turned the case feeder too the left so that I have more room too open the cabinets in the back.
I also like using the strong mount that way nothing is over hanging in front of the tabletop. Iím forever, when I need too get something out of the bottom cabinet hitting my head on the Rock Chucker.
The bullet tray. The bullets are right there. Basically my left had just rest on the tray itself and feed bullets.
The strong mount is also a mount for my halogen light and underneath for the spent primer catcher I have loaded both ways with and without the strong mount. I like the strong mount and bullet tray.
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Old 01-09-2010, 13:08   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colorado4Wheel View Post
The point of a 42 inch high bench is not to use a strong mount. It looks like your 1050's are on a 36" cabinet. That puts them about the same height as a 550 on a strong mount. I am going to need to hold off on anything till I decide what if anything I do with my 550/casefeeder/whatever setup. If I get a 650 (just for discussion) I could set it up to be at my ideal height, no strong mount needed. There are plenty of ways to get the bullet tray where you want it with out buying a bullet tray/strong mount setup. I also find with the right countertop setup it does not flex. But a basic countertop with out proper support does flex a little to much and probably benifits from the strong mount. I may end up just ditching that whole idea and going with a more universal height of 38" (lets say), put the presses on strong mounts and then any single stage would work well on a stool. I will have to fiddle with all this before I make anything.
I'm with you on your thought process. I looked into a countertop as well, but I was concerned that they can't take the resizing torque pressure.
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Old 01-09-2010, 13:22   #69
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Personally, standing for 2-3 hours at a time reloading is not what I wanted to be doing. My bench is just over 36" off the floor with the 550b mounted directly on top as could be seen in the pics. I am 6', and sit on a 30" bar stool (that's on a throw rug) when reloading. Left foot resting on the shelf, bullets to the left, cases to the right, and go at it at a leisurely 250-300rph. Makes for very comfortable reloading. The height is perfect for me for checking cases for powder.
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Old 01-09-2010, 13:35   #70
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Personally, standing for 2-3 hours at a time reloading is not what I wanted to be doing. My bench is just over 36" off the floor with the 550b mounted directly on top as could be seen in the pics. I am 6', and sit on a 30" bar stool (that's on a throw rug) when reloading. Left foot resting on the shelf, bullets to the left, cases to the right, and go at it at a leisurely 250-300rph. Makes for very comfortable reloading. The height is perfect for me for checking cases for powder.
Reminds of Simon & Garfunkle lyrics: "clowns to the left of me, jokers to the right, here I am."

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Old 01-09-2010, 17:29   #71
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I'm with you on your thought process. I looked into a countertop as well, but I was concerned that they can't take the resizing torque pressure.
I am using a countertop now. The easy way to support it and make it very rigid is to make a simple bracket from below the press to some place on the wall behind it. This trianglulates the entire setup and makes it rigid. I used a spare piece of closet rod. If the countertop is going on top of a cabinet, just build the area where the press is going to mount up. Some 1 inch material connecting the top 1" of the cabinets, screw and glue them from the sides. You would have to hold them back a little because most cabinets have a bracket in every corner to attact the cabinet to the top in that area. But if you stiffen the top of the cabinet and attach that to your countertop it will translate into a much stiffer top as well. Even if it's not right under the press.
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Old 01-09-2010, 17:35   #72
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Originally Posted by Colorado4Wheel View Post
I am using a countertop now. The easy way to support it and make it very rigid is to make a simple bracket from below the press to some place on the wall behind it. This trianglulates the entire setup and makes it rigid. I used a spare piece of closet rod. If the countertop is going on top of a cabinet, just build the area where the press is going to mount up. Some 1 inch material connecting the top 1" of the cabinets, screw and glue them from the sides. You would have to hold them back a little because most cabinets have a bracket in every corner to attact the cabinet to the top in that area. But if you stiffen the top of the cabinet and attach that to your countertop it will translate into a much stiffer top as well. Even if it's not right under the press.
Very true. The cabinets will provide the structural support and rigidity you need.
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Old 01-09-2010, 18:47   #73
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I say that 99% of kitchens counter heights or 36", 99% of bathroom counter heights or 32" and all the bar tops I have done are at 42" finished height.
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Old 01-10-2010, 12:44   #74
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This my reloading bench.
http://s139.photobucket.com/albums/q...ading%20bench/
Follow this link too my photo bucket album.
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Old 01-10-2010, 17:44   #75
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Originally Posted by PCJim View Post
Personally, standing for 2-3 hours at a time reloading is not what I wanted to be doing. My bench is just over 36" off the floor with the 550b mounted directly on top as could be seen in the pics. I am 6', and sit on a 30" bar stool (that's on a throw rug) when reloading. Left foot resting on the shelf, bullets to the left, cases to the right, and go at it at a leisurely 250-300rph. Makes for very comfortable reloading. The height is perfect for me for checking cases for powder.
Sounds just like my setup. I'm going to reload in comfort.
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:04   #76
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This my reloading bench.
http://s139.photobucket.com/albums/q...ading%20bench/
Follow this link too my photo bucket album.
Wow, very nice. Thanks for doing that.
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Old 01-11-2010, 10:35   #77
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The bottom cabinet was made about 33 years ago. When we lived in base housing. So being in the Air Force and the longest I ever stayed up too that point was 18 months in anyone place. Boy was I wrong on that one. Got here in 1976 and have been here ever since. So it was designed to be taken apart and reassemble. I could completely dissemble in too individual pieces or front, back, and two sides. And since I was living in base housing attaching it too the wall was out of the question.
At the time I only had the 4 Mec 650 and the Rock chucker presses. The Rock Chucker hangs down off the bench and since there were doors that would be opened. Using a2X4 across the front, I would not be able too open the doors all the way. So I used a 2X6 across the front. 4X4 Legs and 2X4 for the rest ľ” plywood for the sides and back 3/4” plywood for the two shelves.
The tabletop is like I said before 2x12 in front and 2x6 glued and bolted together. Then two layers of MDF on top. The insert in the middle if for different tools and press that I do not use all the time. All I do is pull the blank insert out and put the one with the tool already mounted in the slot and two bolts hold it in place. Unless you are interested in how I did it I well leave it at that.
The back cabinets are the second one I made. That is why the top and bottom cabinets are a different color. The top cabinet is attached too the tabletop. Since I could not attach it too the wall also. The door panels, I was going too make and put in stain glass of scenes like deer, ducks, etc. But never got around in doing it and lost interest.
Hope this gave you some ideas.
You are welcome. Glad too have done it.
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Old 01-11-2010, 16:35   #78
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Heres my bench, its 45 inches high as im tall.

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/w...765/Bench1.jpg

http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/w...765/Bench2.jpg


http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/w...765/Bench3.jpg
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Old 01-11-2010, 17:07   #79
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Ok, I finally got some photos of my bench. I've been remodeling my office, because it looked like a grenade went off in there. The sheet rock was all messed up, the ceiling had water damage from a leak in the old roof, the linoleum flooring did not cover the entire floor... It was not a good looking space.

I'm still working on it; I have baseboard to go around the floors, and I'll need some 1/4 round to cover the gaps where the walls meet, but the bench is done.

The sheet rock on the back wall came out completely. I ran some new romex, and added several outlets. Then I covered it with 3/4 in ply. I took good notes on where the studs were, so when it came time to install the bench, I was able to hit the studs every time.

The shelf on the bottom is 2x4 with a 3/4" sheet. It is bolted to the studs on the back wall and supported by legs in the front. The bench is supported on the back by a 2x4 bolted 6 times to the studs on the back wall. The front is all 4x6 beam.

Reloading

The side supports were notched into the 2x4 on the back, and the 4x6 on the front. I also cut a 1 1/2 inch notch out of the 4x6 for the two sheets of 3/4" ply to sit so that it is recessed on the top.

Reloading

When I bolted it all together I concealed all the hardware so nothing is seen in the front.

Reloading

Reloading

Reloading

This thing is SOLID. With two layers of 3/4" ply on the top, that gives me a 1 1/2" deck, supported by the studs on the back, and a 4x6 beam on the front. I'm fairly certain that when I get the press bolted up there won't be any movement.

.
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Old 01-11-2010, 17:42   #80
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I am not a fan of the lag screw or strong tie look. You can make kitchen quality cabinets with a table saw, router and a Kreg pocket hole jig. I have finished my bathroom cabinets with the pocket hole jig and I am now working on the kitchen. After that I will have time to build some for reloading.

http://www.kregtool.com/index.php
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