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Old 01-10-2010, 01:23   #1
XDRoX
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Some 10/22 modifications

IMO the 10/22 is an awesome little plinker right out of the box. But for little money you can make some drastic improvements to it making it even more fun to shoot.
IMO these few mods will make the gun much easier to use and more fun to shoot.

I'm not a gunsmith so if you attempt to do any of these mods you do so at your own risk.
Also, I didn't invent any of these mods by any means. Most of these I took from rimfirecentral over the years. I just did these mods tonight on a used 10/22 I picked up few weeks ago for $169. It is a basic carbine 10/22. I think the manufacture date was around 1994.
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There are five mods that will really improve any factory stock 10/22.
1. Polishing the internals
2. Modifying the bolt release
3. Changing the magazine release
4. Changing the bolt buffer
5. Changing the extractor

Polishing
There are 3 pieces to polish. Polishing these internals will not lighten the trigger pull. The easiest way to lighten a trigger is to buy an aftermarket hammer. I choose not to replace the hammer in this 10/22 because I use it to teach kids to shoot, and don't mind the 8 lb stock trigger.
On the disconnector I polished one face. The hammer rubs against the disconnector on this face.
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On the hammer I polished one face and the curved end. The flat face is where the hammer makes contact with the bolt and the curved end is where the hammer makes contact with the sear.
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The sear gets polished in 3 places.
This picture shows where the sear makes contact with the hammer.
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This picture shows where the sear makes contact with the disconnector.
I polished the following 2 faces.
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That's all for the polishing. These mods will make the trigger much more crisp and reset better as well. The difference is felt immediately.

Last edited by XDRoX; 01-10-2010 at 01:58..
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Old 01-10-2010, 01:23   #2
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Bolt Release
For those of us that have a 10/22, we know that the bolt can be very frustrating to release. For some reason Ruger likes to make you fiddle with a button while pulling on the bolt. This mod makes the rifle act like any other semi-auto rifle, and it is easy to do. You just have to use a dremel to take off some of the material of the bolt release. This picture shows how much you have to take off.
The factory bolt release is on the right.
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Mag Release
I don't have huge hands, but I have a very hard time pushing the small mag release button to take out a mag. So I think an extended mag release button is a must on any 10/22. Lots of companies make these, so just pick one that you like, you really can't go wrong.
The one I installed tonight is made by Butler Creek. I don't know if they still make these (bought this one about 15 years ago) but I like it because it is barely noticeable, but still makes taking the mag out much easier.
You can see it in this photo:
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Bolt Buffer
You can also see the bolt buffer that I changed as well. This is basically a piece of rubber that replaces a metal pin. Instead of the bolt slamming against metal it hits rubber. This also makes the gun cycle much quieter. The one in this picture is made my Volquartsen, I'm not sure if they still make these, but a company called Tuffer Buffer makes great ones as well. They cost $7.

Last edited by XDRoX; 01-10-2010 at 01:44..
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Old 01-10-2010, 01:32   #3
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Extractor
The last thing I like to change is the extractor. This can help with shell extraction, which sometimes 10/22's don't do as well as they should. With this used 10/22 I was getting about 1 stovepipe every 25 rounds or so. In the past when I changed the extractor, this FTE problem was fixed.
I use an extractor made by Volquartsen like this one here:
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It cost $12.

That's it. Hope this helps and hope this makes some old 10/22's run better and stronger than ever before.
A few more pics.
Fully disassembled pieces and my finished product.
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Last edited by XDRoX; 01-10-2010 at 01:53..
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Old 01-10-2010, 06:49   #4
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10 22

XDRoX
Great post, you did pretty much what I did to mine that I "kept stock" excdept I did the Power Custom adjustable sear and hammer as well as a new trigger. Mine is the synthetic - stainless version.
One mod that is free which you may want to consider is shooting without the bbl band. If the rifle shoots better without it (mine did) I took my dremel to it and relieved the underside where it touched to bbl. Put back on and it looks no different than before but the band no londer toouches the bbl. As an added bonus the band no oonger marks the bbl when I remove it to clean the gun.

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Old 01-10-2010, 11:16   #5
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Excellent info and good posting.

Thanks.
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Old 01-10-2010, 18:21   #6
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The cheapest and best mods go along with yours. I bought a Volq target hammer and auto bolt release combo for $35.00 and an extended mag release for $6.00. Best $41.00 dollars I have spent on the rifle. Makes the rifle user friendly and easier to shoot. I was going to replace the barrel, but I don't think I need to now.
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Old 01-10-2010, 18:56   #7
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You forgot one. I don't have pictures.

The firing pin is set in a channel and can drift up and strike the round in a manner that will not fire.

You can drive a roll pin into the channel to limit the movement of the firing pin, or, you can drill a horizontal hole just above the firing pin and insert a pin in it. Or, you can pay someone to do it for you.

My 10/22 was ****. Every 3rd round was a misfire. Luckily, a guy at the club told me about the firing pin thing. I sent the bolt off for this:

http://community-2.webtv.net/RandyAt...022BoltRework/

and now, it's just a jammomatic with feed problems. CPC released me from the FT fire problem, so now I just have to figure out why it jams.

The CPC treatment helped accuracy too.


I've never understood why Ruger hasn't implemented these changes into the design.


Thanks OP for the post. I was about to buy another bolt release. I'll try that first.

ETA: having polished all those trigger assembly parts, I've come to the conclusion it is best just to buy a third party trigger. I polished them all, but it didn't help much.
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Last edited by Rooster Rugburn; 01-10-2010 at 18:58..
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Old 01-13-2010, 20:11   #8
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I cut the little finger off the bolt release, but It still doesnt release when you pull back on the bolt. Do I need grind a bit more off? other then just the finger that is?
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Old 01-13-2010, 22:02   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rys2k8Altima View Post
I cut the little finger off the bolt release, but It still doesnt release when you pull back on the bolt. Do I need grind a bit more off? other then just the finger that is?
Yes, if you look at my picture I didn't only take off the finger, I took off a lot more. When you're done you don't even want it to be straight, you want it to be a little curved as shown below. By not taking off enough (which sounds like you did) it will not work correctly.
Hope this helps.
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Old 01-13-2010, 22:18   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cop414 View Post
XDRoX
Great post, you did pretty much what I did to mine that I "kept stock" excdept I did the Power Custom adjustable sear and hammer as well as a new trigger. Mine is the synthetic - stainless version.
One mod that is free which you may want to consider is shooting without the bbl band. If the rifle shoots better without it (mine did) I took my dremel to it and relieved the underside where it touched to bbl. Put back on and it looks no different than before but the band no londer toouches the bbl. As an added bonus the band no oonger marks the bbl when I remove it to clean the gun.

Sgt.
Tim
I have heard of taking off the barrel band but never what you did. Very interesting. I will consider it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSSF17 View Post
Excellent info and good posting.

Thanks.
You're welcome.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frog1 View Post
The cheapest and best mods go along with yours. I bought a Volq target hammer and auto bolt release combo for $35.00 and an extended mag release for $6.00. Best $41.00 dollars I have spent on the rifle. Makes the rifle user friendly and easier to shoot. I was going to replace the barrel, but I don't think I need to now.
The hammer is a great mod if you want a lighter trigger, I agree. Money well spent.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster Rugburn View Post
You forgot one. I don't have pictures.

The firing pin is set in a channel and can drift up and strike the round in a manner that will not fire.


You can drive a roll pin into the channel to limit the movement of the firing pin, or, you can drill a horizontal hole just above the firing pin and insert a pin in it. Or, you can pay someone to do it for you.

My 10/22 was ****. Every 3rd round was a misfire. Luckily, a guy at the club told me about the firing pin thing. I sent the bolt off for this:

http://community-2.webtv.net/RandyAt...022BoltRework/

and now, it's just a jammomatic with feed problems. CPC released me from the FT fire problem, so now I just have to figure out why it jams.

The CPC treatment helped accuracy too.


I've never understood why Ruger hasn't implemented these changes into the design.


Thanks OP for the post. I was about to buy another bolt release. I'll try that first.

ETA: having polished all those trigger assembly parts, I've come to the conclusion it is best just to buy a third party trigger. I polished them all, but it didn't help much.
I have read about this mod but never tried it. I don't get very many misfires, but if I do I will certainly try this.

Definitely give it a shot.

Did you try polishing them and adding an after market hammer? On the rifle below I polished all pieces, re-shaped the sear using JB weld and added a Power Custom hammer.
The results are fanominal. But I agree with you. Simply polishing the pieces will not be enough for most target shooters. I wanted to keep the 8lb pull and just clean it up a little.
I've honestly never felt a finer trigger on a rifle than this one has.
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Old 01-13-2010, 22:34   #11
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With a lighter hammer, do you have any light strike issues? I would really like a lighter trigger pull but I dont want to have to worry about having to buy better ammo or a stronger pin spring
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Old 01-13-2010, 22:34   #12
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Oh, I did just file that tab off. I guess Ill pull it apart again tomorrow.
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Old 01-13-2010, 22:43   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rys2k8Altima View Post
With a lighter hammer, do you have any light strike issues? I would really like a lighter trigger pull but I dont want to have to worry about having to buy better ammo or a stronger pin spring
No. The hammer isn't actually lighter, it is just contoured at a different angle making the trigger easier to pull. The same force is still hitting the shell as before. These after market hammers that lessen the trigger pull are really the best mod someone can put on a 10/22. I should have been more specific in my original post about this. A VQ hammer alone will take a trigger from 8 lbs to under 3lbs. That's a huge difference especially when firing from a bench.
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Old 01-13-2010, 22:47   #14
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OH! Thats awesome then... I think Ill end up picking one up then. I would really like the trigger pull down to that of my Glock.
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Old 01-13-2010, 22:50   #15
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One of the only mods that can require you to buy better ammo is a new barrel. Many of the target bull barrels are made with such tight tolerances that cheap ammo can sometimes have trouble feeding. Some of my target 10/22's became very picky with certain cheap bulk ammo after I put a nice barrel on them. That's one of the reasons that I left the rifle in my original post mostly stock. It eats everything and doesn't care what mag I have in it.
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Old 01-13-2010, 22:53   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rys2k8Altima View Post
OH! Thats awesome then... I think Ill end up picking one up then. I would really like the trigger pull down to that of my Glock.
If you buy this hammer and polish the pieces, the trigger will blow your glock away. You don't need to use the springs. Keep the original ones. You can use the shims if you think you need them.
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Old 01-14-2010, 09:21   #17
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So dont use the springs then?
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Old 01-14-2010, 10:54   #18
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So dont use the springs then?
Don't use them. The stock ones are better.
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Old 01-14-2010, 18:33   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDRoX View Post
Don't use them. The stock ones are better.
I have tried both ways, and I have to respectfully disagree. Try it with the stock springs, then with the kit springs. I prefer the springs that came with the kit over stock.

just my .02
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Old 01-14-2010, 20:39   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSSF17 View Post
I have tried both ways, and I have to respectfully disagree. Try it with the stofck springs, then with the kit springs. I prefer the springs that came with the kit over stock.

just my .02
I have actually never tried the VQ springs, so thank you for the post. I was simply stating what I have read for years at rimfirecentral. Back when I was into this stuff the consensus was to always use the stock springs, so that's why I posted what I did.
What exactly about the VQ springs did you like better?
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