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Old 01-24-2010, 19:59   #21
Geezer1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_R View Post
I am not sure who advised you on not shooting reloads but every gun manual I have ever seen says not to shoot reloads. It is standard to say not to do it but obviously a lot of people do.

The retailer told me not to shoot reloads or lead. The only objection I have is he never mentioned anything about reloads or lead until the deal was over......nor did he mention any history about potential KBs. When I picked the weapon up the next day I asked him about both and simply said Glock has made improvements.

As far as reloading, I believe any responsible reloader inspects shotgun hulls, rifle and pistol brass prior to reloading.....and follows the specs. I sure do. As for my 22, I am going to shoot nothing but factory ammo for a few hundred rounds.

It appears to me the lack of full case support is potenitally a problem when poor cases are reloaded and reloaded hot. Nothing new there. I was interested in "Lead" comment about "older" Glocks not having as much support. I was really trying to nail down if Glock has indeed improved the barrel to accomodate the 40 pressures. Good forum
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Old 01-24-2010, 20:41   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umrek View Post
I agree with WiskyT, urban legend caused by fear and the need to sell after market parts. I've put thousands and thousands of lead reloads through many polygonal barrels, including a glock 23 and 27, with ZERO problems. My advice would be: 1.) Don't load near the max, 2) Inspect your brass carefully before reusing it and throw out anything questionable (it's cheap insurance), and 3) Clean your barrel after every shooting session. Do that and you won't have any problems because of lead.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiskyT View Post
I must be Einstien smart. I have been loading 40SW with lead bullets for over a decade and never had a problem. I guess if you are just of average intelligence, you should stay away from loading 40SW
I think both these posts are right on. I used to shoot led SWC's with no problems at all out of my Glock 22. Just keep things clean and stay away from the smoke'n hot loads.
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Old 01-24-2010, 21:35   #23
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The times that I have shot the moly coated lead bullets in my G-24 have resulted in a ton of hard to get out lead or moly stuck in my barrel. I don't know if you should or shouldn't shoot lead in a Polygonal barrel like the Glock or HK, but I have chronoed all of my loads and found that these barrels give poor performance with moly coated lead bullets. My 40 S&W, 5 inch, 1911, Bar Sto barrel always out performs my G-24's 6 inch factory barrel with lead, my HK USPc is terrible with these bullets. I was surprised to discover the difference between the two barrel types. The 1911 doesn't lead up either -- with the same bullets. I run the aftermarket barrels in my Glocks for the improved performance and the lack of lead build up with non jacketed bullets. I stick to Jacketed in the HK.
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Old 01-24-2010, 22:14   #24
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Originally Posted by Colorado4Wheel View Post
No love for TiteGroup?
Or solo 1000. They both have their place but not for beginners with the 40.
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:52   #25
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Originally Posted by shotgunred View Post
Or solo 1000. They both have their place but not for beginners with the 40.
I can see your point with Solo1000 and beginners. But Titegroup? It's so common and so easy to use for a fast powder. Is it just the speed that you object to?
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Old 01-25-2010, 17:09   #26
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Originally Posted by d62_4life View Post
thank you everyone so far . . . i dont plan to use lead since the overall advice is dont use it
Sometimes quality jacketed bullets cost more than twice what cast/moly flat points do ($60/k); for that reason, a LoneWolf barrel (typically $99!), conventionally rifled, would 'pay for itself' within as little as 2,000 rounds.....(thru savings!)

(The LW bbls, which have slightly smaller diameter chambers (.001" at least!), give higher velocity than most Glock bbls anyway, allowing .1 gr less powder, another $1 saved per 1,000 rounds!
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Old 01-25-2010, 17:14   #27
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It's not the polygonal rifling that makes the Glock barrels prone to lead fouling. It's the Tenifer surface treatment of the barrels that makes them more prone to lead fouling. There are plenty of non-Tenifer finish polygonal rifled barrels that work fine with lead bullets and don't foul any more than other types of rifling. With a Glock barrel the lead fouling can be a problem with some lead bullets.

Tenifer treated polygonal rifled barrels not for lead bullets. (made in Austria)

http://www.impulsegunbarrels.com/onl...-06-ersatz.htm

Non-Tenifer treated polygonal rifled barrels made for lead bullets. (made in Austria)

http://www.impulsegunbarrels.com/onl...ng-08-BLEI.HTM

Last edited by GIockGuy24; 01-25-2010 at 17:18..
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Old 01-25-2010, 18:25   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSgt Dotson View Post
Sometimes quality jacketed bullets cost more than twice what cast/moly flat points do ($60/k); for that reason, a LoneWolf barrel (typically $99!), conventionally rifled, would 'pay for itself' within as little as 2,000 rounds.....(thru savings!)

(The LW bbls, which have slightly smaller diameter chambers (.001" at least!), give higher velocity than most Glock bbls anyway, allowing .1 gr less powder, another $1 saved per 1,000 rounds!
I agree...
My latest acquisition a used but excellent condition Storm Lake .40 S&W barrel for my G23 paid $65 delivered.
Montana Gold 180g FMJ bullets $122 - 139 for 1K delivered depending on whether you buy just a thousand or a case of 2500.
Unique precision 180g LFP, lubed and ready to load. $60.50 delivered ( buying 2K at flat rate postage)

I've paid for the barrel is one thousand rounds of savings. How can you go wrong?
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Old 02-01-2010, 19:43   #29
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I've been lerking on this site for quite a while now and I don't think I've even made my first post yet till now. I think I've bitten my tongue long enough.
I guess I will start it with a question. How many lead reloads can I shoot through my G35 before it goes kaboom? The reason I ask is because I'm pushing my 2000th lead reload and its still functions flawlessly so I have to be getting close.
This wasn't without some trial and error though to find the right combination. Two bullets that I have had extremly good luck with are laser cast and redline. Now I use redline exclusively. Namely their 180gn FP. I spoke with the owner of the company and he says his bullets are between a 20 and 21 bhn hardness. I've found that this bullet works great with Unique, Bullseye, and Titegroups powders pushed to moderate to fast volicities. When I take it out I usually put 150 to 200 rounds through it per session then inspect the barrel carefully before cleaning. Guess what, no leading....just a couple of passes with some Hopps #9 and put her up until next weekend.
Ok now for question #2. I just purchased a G21 and plan on shooting lead through it too so does anyone have any good receipes for it?
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Old 02-01-2010, 20:06   #30
havensal
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My G23 and G35 like my reloads. No lead though.
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