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Old 02-07-2010, 14:01   #26
fredj338
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Thanks guys I'll get that case remover. I've got an RCBS press but at the moment I can't say what load I'm using because I live in a dorm and don't bring any of that stuff here. I have been using unique and power pistol for the handgun rounds, for .40 the bullet weights have been I think 155 and I've tried 180 too. Kind of experimenting for now but I've been staying towards the middle on pressure because this is very new to me. I do have one other question though, I see there are so many types of powder, bullets and recommendations on loads, did you guys try a bunch out when you started or did you find something that worked and stick with it? Going to shoot some right now so I'll be back tonight if I have any issues, thanks again.
I recommend one powder & one bullet to start with. Too many vraiables & components around are an accident waiting to happen. Load the wrong powder & charge under the wrong bullet & kiss your new gun goodbye.
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Old 02-07-2010, 20:26   #27
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I recommend one powder & one bullet to start with. Too many vraiables & components around are an accident waiting to happen. Load the wrong powder & charge under the wrong bullet & kiss your new gun goodbye.
That's actually good news to me, I'm meticulous enough not switch things up but I think I'm gonna settle on the power pistol for a while. I shot about 130 rounds of .40 and 130 .357 today and all the rounds went off, I had three jams in the .40 but the .357 didn't have any issues. If anyone could provide me on some insight as to why my reloads jam I'd be very appreciative, also I've been looking at some wolf primers but am kind of skeptical cause of the price, has anyone had any experience with these? Thanks.
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Old 02-07-2010, 21:00   #28
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If anyone could provide me on some insight as to why my reloads jam I'd be very appreciative
As the final step, did you taper crimp the cartridge to remove the case mouth flare from the belling step?
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Old 02-07-2010, 21:17   #29
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As the final step, did you taper crimp the cartridge to remove the case mouth flare from the belling step?
I have been planning to reload the 357Sig just didn't get around to doing it. I bought a set of Lee dies including what I think is their "factory crimp" die. Wouldn't such a die be better?
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Old 02-07-2010, 21:34   #30
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As the final step, did you taper crimp the cartridge to remove the case mouth flare from the belling step?
No I didn't, may I ask how any jams would be caused by no crimp?
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Old 02-07-2010, 22:32   #31
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No I didn't, may I ask how any jams would be caused by no crimp?
All handgun ammo should have an appropriate crimp for reliable functioning. If you are expanding the mouth of the case, even slightly (as you should be), then you must turn that expanded mouth back straight or slightly into the bullet.
What kind of "jamb"? Failure to chamber, feed, what? Failur to chamber can be not crimping properly/adequately, or a bullet too long. Nose down jamb can be OAL too short. Nose up, OAL too long. Yes, reloading reliable, accurate ammo is a bit more comlicated than just stuffing powder & bullets together in a case.
Wolf primers will work fine. I find them a bit lrager in diameter & can cause you some seating issues. With the LP rpimers, I found them a bit hotter than CCI or Fed. So if you are running max loads, I would back off the powder charge 0.1gr to compensate.
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Old 02-07-2010, 22:52   #32
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Thank you Fred for the very helpful info, I guess my OAL was too long on those rounds.
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Old 02-07-2010, 23:16   #33
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Where is the head space for the 357Sig. The case mouth or the shoulder?
If it is the case mouth then a taper or factory crimp is needed, if it is at the shoulder, a roll crimp would be the best.
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Old 02-07-2010, 23:29   #34
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Where is the headspace for the 357Sig. The case mouth or the shoulder?
If it is the case mouth then a taper or factory crimp is needed, if it is at the shoulder, a roll crimp would be the best.
I found the answer, it headspaces at the case mouth.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.357_SIG
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Old 02-08-2010, 03:59   #35
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I found the answer, it headspaces at the case mouth.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.357_SIG
That is correct, although as Fred likes to point out, the shoulder can be used for headspacing as well.
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Old 02-08-2010, 04:40   #36
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Old 02-08-2010, 07:09   #37
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Thank you Fred for the very helpful info, I guess my OAL was too long on those rounds.
What was the overall length and how specifically did it jam?
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:53   #38
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What was the overall length and how specifically did it jam?
They should have all been the same but 2 rounds had there nose pointed up (which was the strangest thing I'd ever seen) and another didn't kick out fast enough and got caught by the slide.
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Old 02-08-2010, 12:42   #39
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I found the answer, it headspaces at the case mouth.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.357_SIG
No wiki is wrong, as was RCBS when they first came out w/ their dies. The round headspaces on the small shoulder. You could roll crimp, but most dies are setup for taper crimp & you need a cannelure exactly at the right place for proper OAL. SO taper crimp works. I've heard many 357sig reloaders having issues w/ early RCBS die sets. Lee, Hornady & especially Dillon (carbide sizer) got it correct. Here is a very good article on the relaoding of the 357sig. After you read it, it's pretty obvious where the case headspaces. http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar65.htm
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Old 02-08-2010, 13:03   #40
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Not to throw a grenade in to the whole where does 357Sig headspace discussion, but in reality it likely doesn't headspace on the shoulder or the case mouth. Like the vast majority of auto pistol cartridges, it will most likely headspace on the extractor. The extractor is what controlls the fore and aft movement of the cartridge. You can measure the headspace from the mid point on the shoulder or the case mouth to the bottom of the case.
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Old 02-08-2010, 13:09   #41
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They should have all been the same but 2 rounds had there nose pointed up (which was the strangest thing I'd ever seen) and another didn't kick out fast enough and got caught by the slide.
Setting the cartridge overall length for most pistol cartridges is simple. Just use measurement supplied by the bullet manufacturer. It will be within SAAMI specifications.

As far as the bell remaining from the belling step. It needs to be removed to make the case wall straight. Otherwise, it can grab things as it is feeding over the end of the magazine, up the feed ramp, and in to the chamber. I personally use Hornady taper crimp dies and they work like a champ. Ones from other manufacturers will likely work fine too.
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Old 02-08-2010, 15:03   #42
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Adding to some every helpfull info. Please spend the next hour or so at WWW.realguns.com/loads/357sig.htm Once there in the search archives block put "357 sig" Most outstanding site reguarding the 357 sig and how to build reloads in that caliber. Enjoy.
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Old 02-08-2010, 15:13   #43
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Not to throw a grenade in to the whole where does 357Sig headspace discussion, but in reality it likely doesn't headspace on the shoulder or the case mouth. Like the vast majority of auto pistol cartridges, it will most likely headspace on the extractor. The extractor is what controlls the fore and aft movement of the cartridge. You can measure the headspace from the mid point on the shoulder or the case mouth to the bottom of the case.
By the definition of headspace, it can not headspace on the extractor. It may be held in place w/ a well fitting extractor, but that is not truely headspacing.
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Old 02-08-2010, 16:01   #44
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By the definition of headspace, it can not headspace on the extractor. It may be held in place w/ a well fitting extractor, but that is not truely headspacing.
I'm just trying to illustrate what's really happening. If someone thinks that the shoulder is what is determining how far the cartridge goes in to the chamber, that would not be correct. But yes, you don't measure headspace from the extractor groove.
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Old 02-08-2010, 16:03   #45
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I've been learning to load the bottleneck 400 cor bon and if the 357 sig is anything like it,it will take alot of practice. Not enough flare and you collapse the neck during seating . Too much flare and you can buckle the case mouth during crimping or lose bullet/case mouth tension.When using a taper crimp die I found out its real easy to buckle the case shoulders(even a little bit and the round wont chamber). While I can use the(lee)seat /taper crimp die, I dont feel like it gives the short neck enough tension. So far I'm having better luck with lee's bottleneck factory crimp die, it roll crimps only the case mouth without putting any stress on the neck or shoulders. And unlike the straight wall LFCDs, it doesnt size also. But it wont fix the problem if a bullet has been seated improperly.
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Old 02-08-2010, 19:41   #46
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I've been learning to load the bottleneck 400 cor bon and if the 357 sig is anything like it,it will take alot of practice. Not enough flare and you collapse the neck during seating . Too much flare and you can buckle the case mouth during crimping or lose bullet/case mouth tension.When using a taper crimp die I found out its real easy to buckle the case shoulders(even a little bit and the round wont chamber). While I can use the(lee)seat /taper crimp die, I dont feel like it gives the short neck enough tension. So far I'm having better luck with lee's bottleneck factory crimp die, it roll crimps only the case mouth without putting any stress on the neck or shoulders. And unlike the straight wall LFCDs, it doesnt size also. But it wont fix the problem if a bullet has been seated improperly.
SOunds like you've got a handle on it. Getting proper neck tension is the key. Make sure your expander die only flares & notexpands the ID too much. Chuck it in the drill press or find a machinist to chuck it in a lathe & polish it down.
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Old 02-08-2010, 20:08   #47
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SOunds like you've got a handle on it. Getting proper neck tension is the key. Make sure your expander die only flares & notexpands the ID too much. Chuck it in the drill press or find a machinist to chuck it in a lathe & polish it down.
Good idea Fred. I'll give it a try. I work out of a machine shop though my work is outside. After reading that realgun.com article I checked my headspace and found with the slack taken out of press and sizer touching holder, the formed brass is around .025 below barrel hood. So I took some fire formed brass and adjusted sizer up a few thousands(actually played with it till I got right) And the resized brass is at or just below hood after being maybe .010 above it after shot. I made a few dummy rounds they hand cycled through allright. I will load some target rounds and see how it works.
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