[aggiekcc]

Hello all,
Got a quick question before I actually load my first 10mm rounds. I have the turret mounted and got the dies set to produce 1.26 OAL 180 gr rounds. I just finished double and triple checking my powder drop from the Lee Auto Disk for 5.4-5.5 gr Titegroup powder and I think everything is ready to go except....I pull out my brand new Starline brass and maybe have a dumb question.

With new brass do you need to put it thru the sizing die/ decap? I know it doesn't need the old primer removed but didn't know if I need to make sure and true the brass. Also, do you need any type of lube if using the Lee carbide dies? I read that some say no lube needed but then others say yes. All the info is appreciated.

[Whaledriver]

Answers to your most commonly asked questions regarding reloading of new brass.
Does one need to full-length size brass prior to loading?

Generally speaking, Starline cases require no resizing prior to loading. Due to variances in diameter of different bullet types, it is a good practice to size the case only as far down as the bullet seating depth. When full length sizing is required, it will be noted in the box with the brass. The only Starline case that requires full sizing is the 454 Casull.

[Snapper2]

Originally Posted by aggiekcc

Hello all,
Got a quick question before I actually load my first 10mm rounds. I have the turret mounted and got the dies set to produce 1.26 OAL 180 gr rounds. I just finished double and triple checking my powder drop from the Lee Auto Disk for 5.4-5.5 gr Titegroup powder and I think everything is ready to go except....I pull out my brand new Starline brass and maybe have a dumb question.

With new brass do you need to put it thru the sizing die/ decap? I know it doesn't need the old primer removed but didn't know if I need to make sure and true the brass. Also, do you need any type of lube if using the Lee carbide dies? I read that some say no lube needed but then others say yes. All the info is appreciated.

I've been full length sizing new brass to ensure better bullet/case tension and make it harder for bullet to get setback. Then only removing flare on the crimp on a separate die. When using 200gr xtp I've had to use a Lyman m expander die to keep from deforming the hollow point, but for full metal jacket bullets a slight flare works.

[_The_Shadow]

I size my new cases also for unifority, this provides an inspection at this step, an insures the flash holes are open and not plugged with any forien materials such as tumbling media. I always seat and taper crimp in seperate steps...adds to the reliable functioning process.

Load'em up man!

[aggiekcc]

Thanks again for the responses. Do you need to use case lube if you are using Lee carbide dies?

[Snapper2]

Originally Posted by aggiekcc

Thanks again for the responses. Do you need to use case lube if you are using Lee carbide dies?

I've been using Winchester brass lately and haven't lubed anything for carbide dies(lee). I do inspect the case mouth and lightly deburr if necessary. I also use a 40cal brass brush inside the brass before flaring and seating. Not that its necessary. I 've been cleaning my carbide sizing die with q tips and rubbing alcohol.

PS. I use to have a bull-mastiff named Aggie(aggravated assault)