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Old 04-20-2010, 13:21   #1
ssgrock3
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reaming an aftermarket barrel

ended up with a barrel purchased online that is match tolerence. Would like it to be more glock mfg tolerance. Can this be done by my non-gunsmith self or who where can do it?
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Old 04-20-2010, 16:46   #2
eisman
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What are you asking?

Match Grade is used to refer to the tolerance (uniformity) of the barrel, measured between the lands. Do you really want to rebore the barrel to a looser tolerance?

If so, anyone can do this. Get a cordless drill and a bit, and just go to town.

Last edited by eisman; 04-20-2010 at 16:47..
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Old 04-20-2010, 16:49   #3
Orion's Belt
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If you want a barrel with Glock tolerance, why don't you stick with the stock barrel?
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Old 04-20-2010, 17:14   #4
Brian Lee
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When barrel makers sell "match fit" barrels they are talking about the fit of the barrel hood into he slide, and NOT just referring to a (supposedly) better & smoother bore. On Glocks, it's also about the side-to-side clearance where the rear barrel protrusion goes into the groove in the breech face (which always matches the width of the cartridge) I fitted mine myself because I am a tool & die maker and had access to better machine shop equipment than 99 percent of all gunsmiths do.

I only needed to remove a little bit of steel from the rearward protrusion that fits into the breech face of the slide, and did it with a surface grinder. If a person was really careful, I suppose it could be done with a bench type belt sander, but it wouldn't be as nice a job, and there would be a lot more risk of taking off more material than you wanted to. Personally I think I could have done it with a file and done a nicer job than a belt sander would do, but I have a lot of metal working experience, so it's easy for me to say that.

The thing about buying match barrels that require fitting is that what you pay for someone else to do the fitting could easily be a lot more than it's worth to you, considering that you could have just bought a "drop in" barrel in the first place.

The other thing about match barrels is that the chamber diameter might be about .003 to .004 smaller than a Glock chamber, (notice that I said CHAMBER diameter and NOT bore - a match bore isn't any smaller) and you'd need a really nice lath to change that. Don't let some "butcher smith" with a table top Unimat or Harbor Freight lath try it or they'll probably just screw it up for you.

There is NEVER any difference in the land/groove diameters of the bore in a match grade barrel. At least not in the sense that you want to ream it out bigger. Just better smoothness and better consistency - if your lucky. The better bore tolerances of a match barrel are not something you'd change to get it fitted to your gun. It's all about having a barrel that does not have any wobble or slop at the back end when the gun is locked into battery. That's why they fit them to individual guns - to compensate for small variations in the slides.

Last edited by Brian Lee; 04-20-2010 at 17:26..
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Old 04-20-2010, 19:02   #5
ssgrock3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Lee View Post
When barrel makers sell "match fit" barrels they are talking about the fit of the barrel hood into he slide, and NOT just referring to a (supposedly) better & smoother bore. On Glocks, it's also about the side-to-side clearance where the rear barrel protrusion goes into the groove in the breech face (which always matches the width of the cartridge) I fitted mine myself because I am a tool & die maker and had access to better machine shop equipment than 99 percent of all gunsmiths do.

I only needed to remove a little bit of steel from the rearward protrusion that fits into the breech face of the slide, and did it with a surface grinder. If a person was really careful, I suppose it could be done with a bench type belt sander, but it wouldn't be as nice a job, and there would be a lot more risk of taking off more material than you wanted to. Personally I think I could have done it with a file and done a nicer job than a belt sander would do, but I have a lot of metal working experience, so it's easy for me to say that.

The thing about buying match barrels that require fitting is that what you pay for someone else to do the fitting could easily be a lot more than it's worth to you, considering that you could have just bought a "drop in" barrel in the first place.

The other thing about match barrels is that the chamber diameter might be about .003 to .004 smaller than a Glock chamber, (notice that I said CHAMBER diameter and NOT bore - a match bore isn't any smaller) and you'd need a really nice lath to change that. Don't let some "butcher smith" with a table top Unimat or Harbor Freight lath try it or they'll probably just screw it up for you.

There is NEVER any difference in the land/groove diameters of the bore in a match grade barrel. At least not in the sense that you want to ream it out bigger. Just better smoothness and better consistency - if your lucky. The better bore tolerances of a match barrel are not something you'd change to get it fitted to your gun. It's all about having a barrel that does not have any wobble or slop at the back end when the gun is locked into battery. That's why they fit them to individual guns - to compensate for small variations in the slides.
I should have said chamber..you are correct. What I want is a standard rifled barrel that has a liiiiiitle bit looser tolerance than the one I have. I reload, they are good but some barrels are finicky and will not feed every bullet profile I can come up with in a 9mm. My barrel is very tight, I would like it to relax a little.

to the poster asking why go aftermarket or looser tolerance. I shoot lead also, so prefer a standard rifled barrel over the stock polygonal version.
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Old 04-20-2010, 19:03   #6
ssgrock3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orion's Belt View Post
If you want a barrel with Glock tolerance, why don't you stick with the stock barrel?
shooting lead and a variety of reloads.
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Old 04-20-2010, 19:57   #7
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ssgrock3,

It's always better to try and solve the problem by altering the ammo before the gun, especially since you reload. I would highly recommend 2 dies, and to use both:

1) the Lee U-Die (the one from EGW is ground to get closer the shell plate)
http://egw-guns.com/store/index.php?...products_id=40

2) The Lee Carbide Factory crimp die (gives the entire case a full length resize while taper crimping as a seperate step)
http://www.leeprecision.com/html/cat...ies-crimp.html

and of course experiment with different cartridge OAL to achieve reliable feeding.
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Old 04-20-2010, 20:50   #8
ssgrock3
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true statement, but I think this might be an old federal barrel, and may just need cleaned up.

You guys are right, always better to work on the ammo. Truth be known I have only had one round jam, but it was jammed bad enough to lock the gun up completely. I would imagine I didn't seat this to total depth on my down stroke, but I have a low tolerance for this sort of thing. I dug a few bags of ammo that I load several years ago out for fun, probably a newbie mistake. Thanks for all the help guys.
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