Home Forums Classifieds Blogs Today's Posts Search Social Groups



  
SIGN-UP
Notices

Glock Talk
Welcome To The Glock Talk Forums.

 
  
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-16-2010, 17:51   #1
bjesse60
Senior Member
 
bjesse60's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: KY
Posts: 307
Inspecting .40 s&w brass (newb here!)

I am soon going to be reloading .40 for my G23 and have been studying as much as I can here. I just recieved some brass that has been cleaned but I would like to get some opinions on sorting it, all Speer headstamp and alot of it seems to have the ever so slight Glock buldge. What are your opinions on sorting for the forty, obviously I will discard any that look over stressed or split but how do you guys determine with the buldge? I will just be med. loading for range use only and would prefer to get the most life out of the brass. Thank's
bjesse60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2010, 17:57   #2
Glockin26
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Renton, WA
Posts: 528
Toss anything thats cracked or split. The glock bulge can be remedied by your resizing die. What loading system are you using?
Glockin26 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2010, 18:02   #3
bjesse60
Senior Member
 
bjesse60's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: KY
Posts: 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glockin26 View Post
Toss anything thats cracked or split. The glock bulge can be remedied by your resizing die. What loading system are you using?
Please don't flame me but I will be using a Lee Classic turret with all the components, I still need a few things such a powder scale, bullets & powder though.
bjesse60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2010, 18:07   #4
Glockin26
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Renton, WA
Posts: 528
Quote:
Originally Posted by bjesse60 View Post
Please don't flame me but I will be using a Lee Classic turret with all the components, I still need a few things such a powder scale, bullets & powder though.
LCT is a great place to start, that's what quite a few of us started with and still use. Don't forget a set of calipers.
Glockin26 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2010, 18:09   #5
at_liberty
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 435
Quote:
Originally Posted by bjesse60 View Post
I am soon going to be reloading .40 for my G23 and have been studying as much as I can here. I just recieved some brass that has been cleaned but I would like to get some opinions on sorting it, all Speer headstamp and alot of it seems to have the ever so slight Glock buldge. What are your opinions on sorting for the forty, obviously I will discard any that look over stressed or split but how do you guys determine with the buldge? I will just be med. loading for range use only and would prefer to get the most life out of the brass. Thank's
No advice here but just describing what I do. Bottom line, the case has to freely go in your gun's chamber. I prefer to use a Lyman Gauge, which also allows checking primer insertion depth and max OAL. I want any cases that will not go into my gauge discovered before I have them loaded.

I run all my .40 SW used brass through a pass through sizer. I have both the Lee Bulge Buster and the Redding G-Rx. They both work but only the Lee will work on loaded ammo, which is a feature that surprisingly came in handy on someone else's remanufactured ammo, some of which wouldn't chamber. The Lee specifies that cases be sized first (and decapped) but both dies work okay without presizing. That way you won't have sizing dies making sharp ridges at the head of the bulge. Get the bulge first, even if needing some lube.

The sequence leaves the bulge area sized a little bit larger than the forward area sized by the regular sizing die. I try to achieve a seamless transition without boundary line, no evidence of special treatment and irregular places that could fail to feed.

Since you are pushing an entire case through these bulge busters, any extractor ding or burr on the head can cause extreme resistance against passing through the die. They will go but deserve a look with some magnification once through. Some extra TLC with a file may be necessary. If it will freely drop in the gauge, it's good.

I don't find many problems but still gauge every case after this resizing process. These cases are returning from scrap status, unable to be loaded as-is, so a bit extra effort beats having to buy new cases.

Last edited by at_liberty; 08-16-2010 at 18:11..
at_liberty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2010, 18:13   #6
DWARREN123
Grumpy Old Guy
 
DWARREN123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: CLARKSVILLE TN
Posts: 4,743
As long as there are no cracks, splits or damaged case heads then resize and go for it.
__________________
Have a Nice Day
DWARREN123 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2010, 18:31   #7
LoadedTech
Senior Member
 
LoadedTech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: virginia beach
Posts: 1,058
No flaming here. I have the Lee loadmaster and hand press, and haven't blown anything up as of yet. If you've been following along, you know there are differences of opinions on equipment. It's a great start, if your just making plinking rounds, you dont really have to sort out the cases. Just inspect them, like G26 said, and reload them. Once you get started, it's additive!
__________________
EDC G27 Virginia CHP holder VCDL member-Glad to have them fighting for my 2A! Nra member
LoadedTech is offline   Reply With Quote

 
  
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump




All times are GMT -6. The time now is 20:49.




Homepage
FAQ
Forums
Calendar
Advertise
Gallery
GT Wiki
GT Blogs
Social Groups
Classifieds


Users Currently Online: 1,146
344 Members
802 Guests

Most users ever online: 2,672
Aug 11, 2014 at 2:31