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Old 09-01-2010, 21:00   #1
AZson
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Thinking of reloading 357 sig

Anybody have any tips or advice to give me or any brass they want to sell?
Do you use gas checks on lead bullets?
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Last edited by AZson; 09-02-2010 at 16:53..
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Old 09-02-2010, 02:03   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZson View Post
Anybody have any tips or advice to give me or any brass they want to sell?
Do you use gas checks on lead bullets?
Try some of the online, once fired brass places. Lots of LEA stuff for $50/1K or so.
Gas checks on a lead bullet for the 357sig would not be recommended. Any bullet you use is going to go below the cases neck & can strip the GC off during firing. That could cause an obstruction. A GC isn't rally need anyway. Cast from ww alloy, water dropped, the bullet will be plenty hard to take the pressure. Sized correctly w/ a dcent lube, leading will be minimum. I shoot ww alloy, aircooled, 125grLTC @ 1200fps w/ no leading in my P239.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:28   #3
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I reload .357 Sig quite a lot for my G32 and have had good success.

One thing that's been helpful for me is Hornady One Shot Case Lube. I get a big (1 gallon) zip lock bag, throw a few hundred cases in there, spray a few shots in and shake. Does an easy and quick job of giving cases just enough lube so they don't get stuck in the sizing die. And One Shot is a wax based lube so you don't have to dry the cases after.

I have not tried lead bullets cause I have the factory G32 barrel, but have had good success with both jacketed and plated 125gr bullets. One thing I did find was that using a fast burning powder with plated bullets can lead to keyholing and other erratica.... I just use Unique now and it works pretty well across the board.

The one-fired cases from Dillon, Midway, or elsewhere are a deal - that's what I use all the time to replace mine from lost brass events etc.

Hope this helps!
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Old 09-02-2010, 12:11   #4
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I have not tried lead bullets cause I have the factory G32 barrel, but have had good success with both jacketed and plated 125gr bullets. One thing I did find was that using a fast burning powder with plated bullets can lead to keyholing and other erratica.... I just use Unique now and it works pretty well across the board.

The one-fired cases from Dillon, Midway, or elsewhere are a deal - that's what I use all the time to replace mine from lost brass events etc.

Hope this helps!
I do not use anything slower than Unique in the 357sig, but I doubt that a faster powder is causing keyholing. As long as you reach the appr. vel levels, it shouldn't matter what powder gets you there. I do know some powders give far better accuracy than others, maybe that is an issue. Also, severe crimping can damage the plating & that will certainly cause some keyholing or at least loss of accuracy.
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Old 09-02-2010, 16:52   #5
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I do not use anything slower than Unique in the 357sig, but I doubt that a faster powder is causing keyholing. As long as you reach the appr. vel levels, it shouldn't matter what powder gets you there. I do know some powders give far better accuracy than others, maybe that is an issue. Also, severe crimping can damage the plating & that will certainly cause some keyholing or at least loss of accuracy.
I've got tons of Unique, how many grains?
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Old 09-02-2010, 18:05   #6
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I've got tons of Unique, how many grains?
A 124gr plated or lead bullet o/ 7gr is a leisurely 1200fps+ in my P239. If I want more gas, I go to a slower powder. Works fine for my lead plinking loads though.
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Old 09-02-2010, 18:19   #7
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A 124gr plated or lead bullet o/ 7gr is a leisurely 1200fps+ in my P239. If I want more gas, I go to a slower powder. Works fine for my lead plinking loads though.
What kind of lube? I've got a lot of Lee Alux.
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Old 09-02-2010, 18:27   #8
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A 124gr plated or lead bullet o/ 7gr is a leisurely 1200fps+ in my P239. If I want more gas, I go to a slower powder. Works fine for my lead plinking loads though.
Can you pan lube them even if they are non-micro band?
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Old 09-02-2010, 20:34   #9
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Yeah, not an Alox lover. Back in the day, I used to pan lube. All you need is a lube soft enough, after melting & rehardening, to be able to punch the bullets out. Take a alum pie pan, stand the bullets nose up with some room between them & pour the melted lube into the pan to cover the lube groove. Then I refrig the pan, pop the solid slab of lube out w/ the bullets stuck to it & pop them out. You can then size them in a Lee sizer on your ss press (another reason to have one) or shoot them as cast. Google WhiteLabel Lubes, good stuff, I like the BAC & Carnuba mixed 50/50 for pan lubing.
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Old 09-03-2010, 07:16   #10
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To eliminate the need for lube, use a 40S&W Sizing die in the first station and the 357 Sig Sizing die in station 2. Works very well.

For bullets I've had success with Precision Bullets Molly coated. About $65/1000. Also Berry's 124gr FP.

Hard to beat this brass price. $32.50/1000.

http://www.southernbellebrass.com/PistolBrass.htm
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Old 09-03-2010, 17:11   #11
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Where do you get your bullets from?
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Old 09-03-2010, 17:40   #12
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Where do you get your bullets from?
Berry'; direct, MontanaGold, direct. I cast my own 125grLTC, but the style is available from several companies, TwoAlpha comes to mind.
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