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Old 10-30-2010, 06:12   #1
Kwesi
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Corn cob mixture question: pls advise

I've read several threads about using Nu Finish + something to cut it with (low odor paint thinner?). I came across a bottle of "denatured alcohol" and was wondering if that is fine to use?

Would the denatured be fine to use for cleaning the primer slide bar, etc (been using Isopropyl alcohol)?

Getting ready to tumble some real dirty 9mm brass. These roller locked weapons & flutes keep things dirty + I'm shooting some in a MP5SD (clone) that really leaves the brass black.

I'm still using the bottle of polish that came with my tumbler kit. Recipe advice please.
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Old 10-30-2010, 06:43   #2
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For cleaning primer slides denatured alcohol beats isopropyl, as most isopropyl has water. I always keep powdered graphite around to lube primer parts. Acetone works too, but may harm some plastics.

An old rule of thumb is corn cob polishes better, but walnut cuts heavy crud better. Walnut is more expensive, but I use corn cob as I got a giant bag of it free years ago. I use things like Lyman's media recharger for really dirty cases, but use plain cob for most things, though I often run tumbler for days.

I have reloaded many cases fired from fluted chambers, HK rifles/pistols, Tokarev rifles. I have some times just wiped the dirt off them, but rifle cases are better polished for the dies sake. Pistol rounds often just get run in the carbide die as is. Currently I have a CETME and SVT-40 Tokarev rifles I have been loading for no problems. I have read of someone saying 10mm cases fired from MP-5s split- don't know, years ago I reloaded cases from a P-7 many times, but sub guns get a lot more wear...... Hope this was useful.
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Old 10-30-2010, 07:55   #3
Kwesi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoffy View Post
I have read of someone saying 10mm cases fired from MP-5s split- don't know, years ago I reloaded cases from a P-7 many times, but sub guns get a lot more wear...... Hope this was useful.
Thanks. I have a MP5-10 (Coharie) that I run full auto. I did have a couple cases with a split but not often.

Can anyone else advise on using "denatured" alcohol to cut the Nu Finish?
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Old 10-30-2010, 08:46   #4
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Don't know about the alcohol, but most people use mineral spirits. I just use straight nu finish and it works great.
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Old 10-30-2010, 09:08   #5
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Kwesi, I use both walnut and cob in a Lyman 1200, depending upon the need. The walnut is used primarily and has tumbled so many cases that it is a sooty gray color. I add maybe 2 tablespoons of paint thinner (odorless mineral spirits is basically the same thing) to help recharge it and to clean the crud. If I want the brass polished, I'll use the cob afterwards and occasionally add a little less than a cap ful of straight Nu-Finish, undiluted. It only takes about five minutes for the straight Nu-Finish to distribute in the cob with the tumbler running. You do not want that polish to build up in the cob.

I've read of a few who use paint thinner to cut the Nu-Finish. I don't know if the two might react against each other - seems like the solvent might would break down the molecular structure of the polish (I sure wouldn't want a solvent on my car's paint). With alcohol, there is also the possibility of a reaction.
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Old 10-30-2010, 10:36   #6
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Kwesi, I use both walnut and cob in a Lyman 1200, depending upon the need. The walnut is used primarily and has tumbled so many cases that it is a sooty gray color. I add maybe 2 tablespoons of paint thinner (odorless mineral spirits is basically the same thing) to help recharge it and to clean the crud. If I want the brass polished, I'll use the cob afterwards and occasionally add a little less than a cap ful of straight Nu-Finish, undiluted. It only takes about five minutes for the straight Nu-Finish to distribute in the cob with the tumbler running. You do not want that polish to build up in the cob.

I've read of a few who use paint thinner to cut the Nu-Finish. I don't know if the two might react against each other - seems like the solvent might would break down the molecular structure of the polish (I sure wouldn't want a solvent on my car's paint). With alcohol, there is also the possibility of a reaction.
Thank you! My buddy uses the mineral spirits and Nu Finish together all the time as have others that have posted. Guess I'll use the denatured alcohol for cleaning the primer bar, etc.
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Old 10-30-2010, 11:18   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwesi View Post
I've read several threads about using Nu Finish + something to cut it with (low odor paint thinner?). I came across a bottle of "denatured alcohol" and was wondering if that is fine to use?

Would the denatured be fine to use for cleaning the primer slide bar, etc (been using Isopropyl alcohol)?

Getting ready to tumble some real dirty 9mm brass. These roller locked weapons & flutes keep things dirty + I'm shooting some in a MP5SD (clone) that really leaves the brass black.

I'm still using the bottle of polish that came with my tumbler kit. Recipe advice please.
Go to your local wal mart. In the dishwasher detergent section is a product called lemi shine. It is citrus acid. Put some hot water in a plastic container (NOT METAL) throw in 1 table spoon of lemi shine and your brass. A few minuets later you will have shinny clean brass. Take your brass out and dry brass. After it dries do a quick polish with Nu Finish and you will have vain reloader quality brass. Doing this also greatly extends the life of your cleaning media.
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Last edited by shotgunred; 10-30-2010 at 11:19..
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Old 10-30-2010, 14:15   #8
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Originally Posted by shotgunred View Post
Go to your local wal mart. In the dishwasher detergent section is a product called lemi shine. It is citrus acid. Put some hot water in a plastic container (NOT METAL) throw in 1 table spoon of lemi shine and your brass. A few minuets later you will have shinny clean brass. Take your brass out and dry brass. After it dries do a quick polish with Nu Finish and you will have vain reloader quality brass. Doing this also greatly extends the life of your cleaning media.
Thanks for the tip! Do you use the Nu Finish straight up or do you cut it with mineral spirits, etc?
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Old 10-30-2010, 14:26   #9
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straight up.
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Old 10-30-2010, 17:59   #10
EL_NinO619
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Cut. Are we doing coke? Just use Nu-Finish and let it run for 5 min before you add brass. Add a couple strips of fabric softener and your good as gold. Mineral spirits is oil based and can "will" leave a film on the bottom of your bowl, and will gunk up pretty fast.
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As Reloaders we should adapt the load to the gun, not the gun to the load.
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Old 10-31-2010, 04:55   #11
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Originally Posted by EL_NinO619 View Post
Cut. Are we doing coke? Just use Nu-Finish and let it run for 5 min before you add brass. Add a couple strips of fabric softener and your good as gold. Mineral spirits is oil based and can "will" leave a film on the bottom of your bowl, and will gunk up pretty fast.
Got it...thanks!
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Old 10-31-2010, 07:19   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EL_NinO619 View Post
Cut. Are we doing coke? Just use Nu-Finish and let it run for 5 min before you add brass. Add a couple strips of fabric softener and your good as gold. Mineral spirits is oil based and can "will" leave a film on the bottom of your bowl, and will gunk up pretty fast.
I agree with the comment straight Nu-Finish and some used fabric softener sheets. The bowl seems to stay cleaner and the sheets come out black showing they absorbed a bunch of crud. I tried the polish and mineral spirit mix and the bowl gets even dirtier and the crud takes some scrubbing to get it off.

The citric acid soak works pretty good too but I only use it on once fired military brass the first time I clean it. I buy the stuff that has not been cleaned or had the primer crimp removed so it is usually filthy.

Last edited by oldsoldier; 10-31-2010 at 07:24..
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Old 10-31-2010, 20:55   #13
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Here are some pics of before and after. This is only using Nu-Finish and dryer sheets and about 2 hours.

ReloadingReloadingReloading
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se carga el diablo de la pistola...
25acp,.223,25-20win,.308, 8mm M, 7mm Rem Mag, 9mm,.40,10mm .45acp, .475 Wildey Mag
On 2 Hornady LNL's And a Super 1050

As Reloaders we should adapt the load to the gun, not the gun to the load.
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