So I watched this video......

brisk21 · 11-26-2010, 11:09

Takedown procedure of a Wilson Combat 1911 done by one of their gunsmiths on youtube and he did it way different that how I do it. I first make sure the gun is clear, then pull the hammer back and engage the safety. I then slide open the bushing and remove the plug. I do this first to take tension off the recoil spring before I remove the slidestop. This guy removes the slidestop with the recoil spring under tension. Seems like a harder way to do it to me, but Im sure no Wilson Combat gunsmith. How do you guys do it? (Or at least the ones who clean your guns

)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYuJh...eature=related

Quack · 11-26-2010, 11:15

on tight guns, i remove the slide, recoil spring/guide rod, move the barrel out of battery, remove the bushing.

on guns where i can get the bushing off with my fingers, i move the barrel back out of battery, remove the bushing, remove the plug & spring, then remove the slide.

here's a pic of how i do it when i can remove the bushing by hand.

brisk21 · 11-26-2010, 11:24

Thats what I do. On my TRP, I unbolt the guiderod and I can actually get the bushing off with my hands.

bac1023 · 11-26-2010, 11:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by brisk21

Thats what I do. On my TRP, I unbolt the guiderod and I can actually get the bushing off with my hands.

Yeah, that's the two piece variety.

Quack · 11-26-2010, 11:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by brisk21

Thats what I do. On my TRP, I unbolt the guiderod and I can actually get the bushing off with my hands.

the only guns that i NEED a bushing wrench on are the 3 Custom Shop guns. when i first got my TGO-1, i didn't think that i would be able to get the bushing off even with a wrench.

MD357 · 11-26-2010, 11:46

Quote:

on guns where i can get the bushing off with my fingers, i move the barrel back out of battery, remove the bushing, remove the plug & spring, then remove the slide.

Have you tried this on your Baer?

rsxr22 · 11-26-2010, 13:01

I take the slide stop out then remove the guide rod assembly, no matter whether its GI or FLGR like on my STI

bac1023 · 11-26-2010, 13:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by MD357

Have you tried this on your Baer?

Yeah, that's not going to happen.

***okie*** · 11-26-2010, 14:07

I dissemble just like he did, but when I go back together the plug is the last thing I put in

brisk21 · 11-26-2010, 14:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quack

the only guns that i NEED a bushing wrench on are the 3 Custom Shop guns. when i first got my TGO-1, i didn't think that i would be able to get the bushing off even with a wrench.

I guess Ive never had the pleasure of NEEDING a bushing wrench on a 1911 yet. Hopefully some day. That is one thing nice about the mil-spec is that it is a little loose (and quite worn in) so it field strips really easy and quick.

MD357 · 11-26-2010, 14:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by bac1023

Yeah, that's not going to happen.

If we can get him into a Baer and you a Railed 1911 then my work will be done here.

dnuggett · 11-26-2010, 19:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by MD357

If we can get him into a Baer and you a Railed 1911 then my work will be done here.

I mean really. Bac already goes for those awful front serrations. Makes a rail look traditional!

Cobra64 · 11-26-2010, 20:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by bac1023

Yeah, that's the two piece variety.

Bac, the last time I visited, I think you mentioned you use this on your Les Baer.

.

Cobra64 · 11-26-2010, 20:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quack

the only guns that i NEED a bushing wrench on are the 3 Custom Shop guns. when i first got my TGO-1, i didn't think that i would be able to get the bushing off even with a wrench.

Bac uses a wrench too. See previous post.

Cobra64 · 11-26-2010, 20:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by MD357

If we can get him into a Baer and you a Railed 1911 then my work will be done here.

If Bac gets a railed 1911, he will have lost friends and respect.

Cobra64 · 11-26-2010, 20:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by dnuggett

I mean really. Bac already goes for those awful front serrations. Makes a rail look traditional!

He's not a fan of front serrations, but they don't seem to bother him as much as it does others.

As for a tac rail, I sent my P226 to a smith and paid $300 to have it removed.

dnuggett · 11-27-2010, 17:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobra64

He's not a fan of front serrations, but they don't seem to bother him as much as it does others.

As for a tac rail, I sent my P226 to a smith and paid $300 to have it removed.

I understand that everyone has an opinion on rails and front serrations. No problems with rails here, but it has to look good. I actually have a slight problem with front serrations, but its a personal hang up.

brisk21 · 11-27-2010, 19:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by dnuggett

I understand that everyone has an opinion on rails and front serrations. No problems with rails here, but it has to look good. I actually have a slight problem with front serrations, but its a personal hang up.

As for front serrations, I like them but I definatley wouldn't mind not having them. If I had a 1911 STRICKLY for home defense I would have a railed TRP but I really don't like the looks of a rail on a 1911.