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Old 11-26-2010, 12:09   #1
brisk21
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So I watched this video......

Takedown procedure of a Wilson Combat 1911 done by one of their gunsmiths on youtube and he did it way different that how I do it. I first make sure the gun is clear, then pull the hammer back and engage the safety. I then slide open the bushing and remove the plug. I do this first to take tension off the recoil spring before I remove the slidestop. This guy removes the slidestop with the recoil spring under tension. Seems like a harder way to do it to me, but Im sure no Wilson Combat gunsmith. How do you guys do it? (Or at least the ones who clean your guns)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYuJh...eature=related

Last edited by brisk21; 11-26-2010 at 12:17..
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:15   #2
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on tight guns, i remove the slide, recoil spring/guide rod, move the barrel out of battery, remove the bushing.

on guns where i can get the bushing off with my fingers, i move the barrel back out of battery, remove the bushing, remove the plug & spring, then remove the slide.

here's a pic of how i do it when i can remove the bushing by hand.
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:24   #3
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Thats what I do. On my TRP, I unbolt the guiderod and I can actually get the bushing off with my hands.
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:25   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brisk21 View Post
Thats what I do. On my TRP, I unbolt the guiderod and I can actually get the bushing off with my hands.
Yeah, that's the two piece variety.
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:30   #5
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Thats what I do. On my TRP, I unbolt the guiderod and I can actually get the bushing off with my hands.
the only guns that i NEED a bushing wrench on are the 3 Custom Shop guns. when i first got my TGO-1, i didn't think that i would be able to get the bushing off even with a wrench.
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Old 11-26-2010, 12:46   #6
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on guns where i can get the bushing off with my fingers, i move the barrel back out of battery, remove the bushing, remove the plug & spring, then remove the slide.
Have you tried this on your Baer?

Last edited by MD357; 11-26-2010 at 12:46..
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Old 11-26-2010, 14:01   #7
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I take the slide stop out then remove the guide rod assembly, no matter whether its GI or FLGR like on my STI
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Old 11-26-2010, 14:41   #8
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Have you tried this on your Baer?
Yeah, that's not going to happen.
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Old 11-26-2010, 15:07   #9
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I dissemble just like he did, but when I go back together the plug is the last thing I put in
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Old 11-26-2010, 15:21   #10
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Originally Posted by Quack View Post
the only guns that i NEED a bushing wrench on are the 3 Custom Shop guns. when i first got my TGO-1, i didn't think that i would be able to get the bushing off even with a wrench.

I guess Ive never had the pleasure of NEEDING a bushing wrench on a 1911 yet. Hopefully some day. That is one thing nice about the mil-spec is that it is a little loose (and quite worn in) so it field strips really easy and quick.
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Old 11-26-2010, 15:27   #11
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Yeah, that's not going to happen.
If we can get him into a Baer and you a Railed 1911 then my work will be done here.
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Old 11-26-2010, 20:17   #12
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If we can get him into a Baer and you a Railed 1911 then my work will be done here.
I mean really. Bac already goes for those awful front serrations. Makes a rail look traditional!

Last edited by dnuggett; 11-26-2010 at 20:19..
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Old 11-26-2010, 21:46   #13
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Quote:
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Yeah, that's the two piece variety.
Bac, the last time I visited, I think you mentioned you use this on your Les Baer.


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Old 11-26-2010, 21:47   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quack View Post

the only guns that i NEED a bushing wrench on are the 3 Custom Shop guns. when i first got my TGO-1, i didn't think that i would be able to get the bushing off even with a wrench.
Bac uses a wrench too. See previous post.
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Old 11-26-2010, 21:50   #15
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If we can get him into a Baer and you a Railed 1911 then my work will be done here.
If Bac gets a railed 1911, he will have lost friends and respect.
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Old 11-26-2010, 21:53   #16
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Originally Posted by dnuggett View Post

I mean really. Bac already goes for those awful front serrations. Makes a rail look traditional!
He's not a fan of front serrations, but they don't seem to bother him as much as it does others.

As for a tac rail, I sent my P226 to a smith and paid $300 to have it removed.
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Old 11-27-2010, 18:55   #17
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He's not a fan of front serrations, but they don't seem to bother him as much as it does others.

As for a tac rail, I sent my P226 to a smith and paid $300 to have it removed.
I understand that everyone has an opinion on rails and front serrations. No problems with rails here, but it has to look good. I actually have a slight problem with front serrations, but its a personal hang up.
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Old 11-27-2010, 20:31   #18
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Originally Posted by dnuggett View Post
I understand that everyone has an opinion on rails and front serrations. No problems with rails here, but it has to look good. I actually have a slight problem with front serrations, but its a personal hang up.

As for front serrations, I like them but I definatley wouldn't mind not having them. If I had a 1911 STRICKLY for home defense I would have a railed TRP but I really don't like the looks of a rail on a 1911.
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