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Old 01-04-2011, 15:04   #1
REA9mm
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So, I've decided to paint my rifle on the cheap.

First, a little background. This rifle is an old, out of production Olympic Arms OA-93 carbine. It was given to me by a good family friend, and I can only assume that it sat in his safe for many years prior. There is rust on the barrel and on the tube along the top. The fore guard/heat shield has a few nicks in it and it's also discolored and is more gray than the rest of the rifle. I'm not sure if all this shows up in the pic below, so I thought I'd describe it.

Here is my plan. I'm gonna get some matte black engine enamel paint at Lowes that is graded to withstand 500 degrees F and basically go to town on the front end of this thing. Before that I was gonna go over it with some steel wool and some cleaner.

Now, I realize some of you purists are a little miffed at me by now, but, short of convincing me that this will cause the gun to stop functioning properly, I don't think I can be talked out of it. So, any recommendations that won't put me above my established budget on this project, which is about $10?

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Old 01-04-2011, 15:16   #2
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People paint their ARs all the time. Go for it. Interesting looking rifle, I've never seen one with the giant tube on top like that.
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Old 01-04-2011, 15:25   #3
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Originally Posted by NeverMore1701 View Post
People paint their ARs all the time. Go for it. Interesting looking rifle, I've never seen one with the giant tube on top like that.
Thanks, after reading in this forum a bit more, maybe I'm not as crazy as I thought I was. Maybe I should paint the whole thing, instead of just the front.

You're right, it is a very odd rifle. I did some research when I first got it, but I didnt find out a whole lot. That tube has a recoil spring in it and the cocking lever is on the right side there, just below the rail.
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Old 01-04-2011, 15:27   #4
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What's it all made out of? Is it painted now, or a blued finish? A blueing kit is about $15.
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Old 01-04-2011, 15:32   #5
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What's it all made out of? Is it painted now, or a blued finish? A blueing kit is about $15.
It's all blued right now except for the plastic grip and stock. Is the blueing going to be a lot harder than spray painting?
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Old 01-04-2011, 15:36   #6
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Wait? Blued? Don't you mean parkerized?
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Old 01-04-2011, 15:51   #7
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REA9mm,....that's a rather rare beast!

If I were you, I'd leave it as is!
No paint, just keep it oiled and leave it be. Those old Oly's are collectable to some!

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Old 01-04-2011, 15:56   #8
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I am not trying to be negative but from my own past experiences regular paint does not holdup very well on firearms. Sometimes gun oils will cause the paint to lift and quality gun action cleaners will strip the paint completely off.

General tips when painting a firearm.

1- If possible, strip the firearm down as much as possible but only what you feel confident with.

2- Clean and prepare all areas of the firearm that will be painted with a degreaser and if possible dry it with compressed air. Rags will leave lint. A clean paintbrush can be used to remove the lint.

3- Tape off any threads on screws and plug any screw holes. Painted screws and holes can bind causing the screw to strip or break.

4- Plug and pin holes and do not paint pins. This could cause unwanted binding and paint chipping.


5- You can use foam earplugs to plug the end of the barrel so that you do not get paint inside it.


6- Tape off the sights. You want to make sure that they do not shine, otherwise they will be difficult to use on sunny days.
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Old 01-04-2011, 15:58   #9
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Also, see this thread:
http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1300087
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Old 01-04-2011, 16:24   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faawrenchbndr View Post
REA9mm,....that's a rather rare beast!

If I were you, I'd leave it as is!
No paint, just keep it oiled and leave it be. Those old Oly's are collectable to some!
Agreed. Clean off the rust, oil it and admire it as a piece of history.
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Old 01-04-2011, 17:11   #11
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Agreed. Clean off the rust, oil it and admire it as a piece of history.
Yep. I'd leave it alone until some more research is done.

It's a pistol model.

Very interesting.
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Old 01-04-2011, 17:38   #12
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Thanks for the input guys. I would be content to leave it be, but the rust on it is what bothers me. I already went to town on it with some fine grain steel wool and some Breakfree CLP. It did take of some of the rust, but not all. And where it did remove the rust, the color of the finish was removed too, so the bare steel is exposed.
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Old 01-04-2011, 18:12   #13
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I see your concern,.......& it makes sense.

Please post some good pics when done,....would love a few close ups!
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Old 01-04-2011, 21:33   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokin762 View Post
I am not trying to be negative but from my own past experiences regular paint does not holdup very well on firearms. Sometimes gun oils will cause the paint to lift and quality gun action cleaners will strip the paint completely off.

General tips when painting a firearm.

1- If possible, strip the firearm down as much as possible but only what you feel confident with.

2- Clean and prepare all areas of the firearm that will be painted with a degreaser and if possible dry it with compressed air. Rags will leave lint. A clean paintbrush can be used to remove the lint.

3- Tape off any threads on screws and plug any screw holes. Painted screws and holes can bind causing the screw to strip or break.

4- Plug and pin holes and do not paint pins. This could cause unwanted binding and paint chipping.


5- You can use foam earplugs to plug the end of the barrel so that you do not get paint inside it.


6- Tape off the sights. You want to make sure that they do not shine, otherwise they will be difficult to use on sunny days.
On # 2, make sure after you use a degreaser that you thoroughly wash the same area with a little dawn detergent with water and a scotch brite pad and allow to air dry. I learned the hard way when I prepped a car hood by cleaning it with degreaser. When my friend shot the paint it all fish eyed because the degreaser has petroleum products in it.
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Old 01-04-2011, 23:47   #15
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Bluing is not easy. You have to detail clean every part of the surface to get rid of all the oils or else you will have spots.

Even the cold bluing kit is not that easy to do.

Look up the Birchwood Casey kit and find the instructions online to see what it entails. I pretty much gave up and made a reservation to get my gun Duracoated or whatever it's called instead.
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:43   #16
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The OA-93's are collectible enough that I would definitely NOT do it with BBQ paint. That's fine for a user/duty gun, but for anything that has value (although not THAT much) I would do a good job on it. If it were mine I would use Norrells Molyresin. Probably in the flat black. It's not going to cost much more and, if you do a good job (full disassembly degrease and all that) I don't think it will hurt the value all that much. It may even improve it.

I've done guns in Krylon, Norrells, and Duracote and of the three I prefer Norrells far and away above the other products.

(And totally OT) That looks like an ATI stock on your shotgun, if it is ditch that worthless POS and go back to factory. It'll snap the first time you drop the gun.
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Old 01-05-2011, 15:17   #17
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On # 2, make sure after you use a degreaser that you thoroughly wash the same area with a little dawn detergent with water and a scotch brite pad and allow to air dry. I learned the hard way when I prepped a car hood by cleaning it with degreaser. When my friend shot the paint it all fish eyed because the degreaser has petroleum products in it.

Whenever I have done any automotive painting, I have always preferred to stay away from any detergents. I always wiped it down with some Depont Prep-Sol to make sure the surface was oil free.

I also always added the recommended amount of Depont Fisheye eliminator additive to paints when painting automotive parts.

Not all Degreaser’s are petroleum based. You just need to find the right one.
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Old 01-05-2011, 15:34   #18
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well, I just finished painting it. I did about 3 coats with good drying time in between, do you think that is enough?
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Old 01-05-2011, 15:36   #19
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Bluing is not easy. You have to detail clean every part of the surface to get rid of all the oils or else you will have spots.

Even the cold bluing kit is not that easy to do.

Look up the Birchwood Casey kit and find the instructions online to see what it entails. I pretty much gave up and made a reservation to get my gun Duracoated or whatever it's called instead.
I like painting with Dura Coat. I have seen people around here complain about how it is not durable enough for them. Then you read later that they baked it for the recommend time and shortly later, they started carrying that firearm.

Dura Coat has in their instruction sheet that baking the firearm is the same as letting it air dry for the first 24 hours. It still needs to air dry for 3-4 weeks to properly cure. I always let mine cure for 5-6 weeks. The longer you wait the more durable it will become.

I have a bench vise that I have painted three or four times with leftover paint from the sprayer pot. After beating on metal brackets and other things that vise still looks good.
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Old 01-05-2011, 15:39   #20
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well, I just finished painting it. I did about 3 coats with good drying time in between, do you think that is enough?
The question is. How does it look to you?
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