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Old 01-02-2011, 17:23   #26
ottomatic
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Two things I have wondered about before I start:
1. Optics... what (besides the glass, duh!) do you mask.
2. a) If you do Krylon and change your mind, how do you get it off?
b)If removing paint involves solvents, what about "plastics" such as grips?

BTW, good post. Thanks!
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Old 01-02-2011, 20:21   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ottomatic View Post
Two things I have wondered about before I start:
1. Optics... what (besides the glass, duh!) do you mask.
2. a) If you do Krylon and change your mind, how do you get it off?
b)If removing paint involves solvents, what about "plastics" such as grips?

BTW, good post. Thanks!
1) Glass was it for me. All knobs are working fine.
2&3) Never changed my mind, I have always been happy with the result. I have seen brake cleaner recommended for removal (spray on metal, spray on rag for polymer). I can't comment on this method, as I said before I have no experience with this.
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Old 01-02-2011, 21:19   #28
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My totallynotheeasywaypitaspray.

Base coat.

The SHOT ShowCase

And some mask.

The SHOT ShowCase

Shooting the green.

The SHOT ShowCase

Final coat.

The SHOT ShowCase

Peeling the stencils.

The SHOT ShowCase

Final product.

The SHOT ShowCase
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Old 01-03-2011, 11:23   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushflyr View Post
My totallynotheeasywaypitaspray.

Base coat.

The SHOT ShowCase

And some mask.

The SHOT ShowCase

Shooting the green.

The SHOT ShowCase

Final coat.

The SHOT ShowCase

Peeling the stencils.

The SHOT ShowCase

Final product.

The SHOT ShowCase

Looks good! Did you spray on a clear coat to protect it?
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Old 01-03-2011, 12:22   #30
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Front sight is on backwards.
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Old 01-03-2011, 12:56   #31
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By mounting FS backwards, you gain another 1/2-3/4" of distance, plus, FSP doesn't care which way it's pointing.
 
Old 01-03-2011, 13:30   #32
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Bushflyr, that is a great looking job right there.
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Old 01-03-2011, 13:46   #33
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Gents, let's keep the comments in line with the purpose of the thread please.

Thanks,
Dan
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Old 01-03-2011, 13:47   #34
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Bushflyr,

Is that paint or DuraCoat?
Did you get the decals from Lauer?

Looks darn good,.......especially the Ace stock with the VTAC
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Old 01-03-2011, 14:07   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushflyr View Post
My totallynotheeasywaypitaspray.

Base coat.

The SHOT ShowCase

And some mask.

The SHOT ShowCase

Shooting the green.

The SHOT ShowCase

Final coat.

The SHOT ShowCase

Peeling the stencils.

The SHOT ShowCase

Final product.

The SHOT ShowCase

Looks DAMN good, but way too much work for me!
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Old 01-03-2011, 18:12   #36
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If you krylon, you can also use a matte clearcoat to improve abrasion resistance. Do note, that even matte clearcoat takes away some of the flatness of the paint, but not to a point where it's siny.
 
Old 01-04-2011, 16:32   #37
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So for you that have painted AR's with Krylon camo etc, how does it hold up to the oil. I have painted bolt guns with good success and wear after clear coating, but I never got oil on the paint. I am really considering painting my AR but dont want to if the oil is just gonna take it off.
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Old 01-04-2011, 16:34   #38
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My clearcoated krylon held up fine to oil, but still abrades away at contact areas, like grip and cheek.
 
Old 01-04-2011, 18:01   #39
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It's Duracote. No clear over it. It's a user so I don't care if it gets worn.

I got the stencils from Bulldogarms.com.

Yes, I realize the front BUIS is "backwards" but it gains me some sight radius, as was pointed out. Also, the V-tac is a little odd in that the top rail stops short of the front of the tube.

No I won't be doing one like this again. It was a royal PITA, I'm STILL finding little square stencils that I missed over the past couple years. I wanted to do it just because I could. Now that I've ticked that box I'll be doing it the easy way next time.

I've done Krylon before, the one drawback I found was that it got sticky where I got CLP on it and never did resolidify. It didn't affect how it shot, but was kind of irritating.
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Old 01-04-2011, 18:20   #40
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I painted a rifle once with krylon and will never do it again.. The first time any cleaning products, including CLP touched it the paint turned into a sticky stinky mess.. It was LAME>.
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Old 01-04-2011, 20:11   #41
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ive painted my bolt gun and shotgun but its always been flat od green.

my ar will be painted as soon as i can find some decent netting. i like the net pattern.
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Old 01-04-2011, 20:56   #42
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Guess I have another reason for why I never use CLP.
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Old 01-05-2011, 01:10   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pleaforwar View Post
I have seen brake cleaner recommended for removal (spray on metal, spray on rag for polymer). I can't comment on this method, as I said before I have no experience with this.
Brake cleaner worked too well... I used it to clean my milsurp M44 Mosin Nagant as I heard break cleaner worked well on Cosmoline.

I hung up my rifle, shot it with brake cleaner... saw a lot of brown coming off... and thought, man, that's a lot of cosmoline... then I realized it was the lacquer coming off the wood stock!

The rifle was clean though, not a trace of Cosmoline to be found anywhere in the metal afterwards... but I did have to refinish the wooden stock, which is fine. I got to fine sand it and raise some cartouches and re-stain the wood a nice medium red Cherry and Walnut which actually came out a nice rich Teak for some reason. It sure looked better than before with the stock Russian wooden finish.
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Old 01-05-2011, 05:18   #44
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I painted a rifle once with krylon and will never do it again.. The first time any cleaning products, including CLP touched it the paint turned into a sticky stinky mess.. It was LAME>.
Brownells Clear matte epoxy Acra coat over Krylon= no problem with cleaners or clp for me.
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Old 01-05-2011, 06:33   #45
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Quote:
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Guess I have another reason for why I never use CLP.
what do you use that doesnt affect the krylon?
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Old 01-05-2011, 06:35   #46
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My guess would be Slip2000.
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Old 01-05-2011, 08:33   #47
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Quote:
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what do you use that doesnt affect the krylon?
I come from the school of "clean every few thousand rounds" rather than the school of "complete dis-assembly and clean after every time at the range". I am more prone to wipe down the BCG and bore-snake the barrel a couple times than anything more. As you can imagine the paint is far from being in danger from my cleaning approach.

Nevermore is correct, I prefer Slip or MPro7 for cleaning my rifles.
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Old 01-05-2011, 18:45   #48
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ahh, ok. i am pretty much the same. just curious if you were using militech or something now. i do use clp but my rifle doesnt need to be dripping wet to run.
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Old 01-05-2011, 19:00   #49
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Very nice thread! I've used Norrells moly resin. Nothing fancy though, just black...okay, Evil Black

On the Norrells, it's a bit more involved since I heated the parts before applying it, and then baked it on for an hour after application.
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Old 01-06-2011, 14:34   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pleaforwar View Post
I come from the school of "clean every few thousand rounds" rather than the school of "complete dis-assembly and clean after every time at the range". I am more prone to wipe down the BCG and bore-snake the barrel a couple times than anything more. As you can imagine the paint is far from being in danger from my cleaning approach.

Nevermore is correct, I prefer Slip or MPro7 for cleaning my rifles.
I agree for chrome lined AR's but for more accurate AR setups and accurate bolt action rifles, I clean every 1-200 rnds or whenever accuracy falls off..

Thanks for the tip on Epoxy clear coat in the above posts..
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