A Simple Guide to Painting Your AR-15 - Page 3

MNOD Glocker · 01-09-2011, 06:42

I realize this is not an AR, but this thread got me thinking about painting my coyote rifle. I taped the action, trigger guard and trigger, scope ends, and the grip inserts on the rifle, and I covered the muzzle with a piece of tape. I painted one coat of black krylon, let it dry, used my home made stencils (strips of masking tape cut into blades of grass in a sense), painted two coats of white paint, and then removed the stencils. Maybe not my best work but I am happy with it. As someone else pointed out, its made to be functional, not a safe queen.

**NeverMore1701** · 01-09-2011, 08:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by MNOD Glocker

I realize this is not an AR, but this thread got me thinking about painting my coyote rifle. I taped the action, trigger guard and trigger, scope ends, and the grip inserts on the rifle, and I covered the muzzle with a piece of tape. I painted one coat of black krylon, let it dry, used my home made stencils (strips of masking tape cut into blades of grass in a sense), painted two coats of white paint, and then removed the stencils. Maybe not my best work but I am happy with it. As someone else pointed out, its made to be functional, not a safe queen.

Beeman · 01-09-2011, 19:58

Here's my newest .204 Ruger AR I built.

**NeverMore1701** · 01-09-2011, 20:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beeman

Here's my newest .204 Ruger AR I built.

Looks good, how did you paint it?

Still waiting for some decent painting weather here, have the Krylon and cardboard sitting in the garage, waiting. Figure I'll put another coat on my bumper while I'm at it, it's pretty scratched up.

Beeman · 01-09-2011, 20:33

I put a rope through the rear sling mount, hung it from a tree and started painting. I did the tan base first, then olive drab, and then added some dark brown. I used Krylon, and just started spraying spots, and streaks on the gun.

Tucson_1 · 01-09-2011, 20:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by pleaforwar

I recognize the Sonoran desert. You here in Tucson by any chance?

No-Limit · 01-09-2011, 21:03

Let's see if I did this right. Here's a couple pictures of a Savage 110 I painted in a desert digital camo motif. If the pics don't show up, give me a min. I did a write-up of the process on another forum, so if anyone is interested...just let me know and I will add it here too. If anyone wants to make those photos appear bigger, feel free...I just am not familiar w/ the URL way of adding photos.

pleaforwar · 01-09-2011, 21:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tucson_1

I recognize the Sonoran desert. You here in Tucson by any chance?

The saguaro cacti gave it away, didn't they?

The photos were actually taken near the town of Carefree.

pleaforwar · 01-09-2011, 21:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by No-Limit

so if anyone is interested...just let me know and I will add it here too.

That's the purpose of the thread Bud! Please enlighten us on what did/didn't work for you.

No-Limit · 01-09-2011, 21:21

You asked for it...here ya go:

I decided to give my Savage 110 30.06 a desert colored digital camo transformation. I did a lot of research and watched some youtube clips...printed out some digital camo stencils and went to town. I went ahead and painted the scope too (cheap Simmons scope that came with the rifle). Also included a pic of the gun with my Nikon Monarch 3-9x40 w/ Talley Lightweight rings.

The pictures make it look a lot lighter than it actually is. The lightest color (looks white in pics) is actually desert sand. Then the next darker is a tan color, then the darkest is a dark brown. All are ultra-flat camouflage paints...and then I gave it a couple coats of flat clear to protect it.

I used Aervo Military Digital Pattern Camo Paint in Desert Sand as the base color. Zynolyte also makes a Camo Paint, which is what I used for the other two colors. The light brown is Zynolyte Sand and the darker color is Zynolyte Earth Brown. I clear coated everything with Valspar Clear Flat enamel. You definitely want to use a flat paint, which are hard to find in different colors (from a rattle can) unless you get the "camo" paint. I actually paid way too much for the Aervo because I couldn't find a flat rattle can desert sand color anywhere around here...so I had to order it...shipping and all came to around $16 for one can! I had a vision in mind and I was willing to pay that to do it right.

First, of course, you completely disassemble the gun...applying tape everywhere you don't want painted. Cotton balls work well stuffed into both ends of the barrel and the inside of the stock.

The way I did the stencils: I found some free stencils online (I can PM you the website) and printed them out. Then I covered a sheet of wax paper with blue painters tape, overlapping each strip by 1/16 inch. Then you secure your stencil to the painters tape and cut through everything with a box cutter/exact-o knife. Then peel off the wax paper and you have an adhesive stencil to lay on the gun. These are the male stencils. You paint the gun the lightest color first, then lay on a layer of your adhesive male stencil, then spray the next color, lay on another layer of stencils, then spray the last color (darkest color). After that, you carefully peel off all the layers and then you can go back and use the female stencils (which were made when you pulled the male stencils off of the wax paper) to add to any areas that you want (this is what gives it a true digital camo look). Of course you have to be really careful to cover the rest of the gun with plastic or paper during this process so you don't have any problems with over-spray.

One of the toughest parts was visualizing what you wanted the final product to look like because you have to work backwards with the paint colors. The lightest color goes on first, then the next darker, then the darkest. The reason I say it's backwards is because you cover up wherever you want that particular color to stay with the male stencil, then spray over top of it as opposed to using a female stencil to spray the color you want in the area you want. Make sense?

You wouldn't believe it, but removing the painters tape from the wax paper was the most time consuming and tedious part of the job. Separating the two layers without ripping the little "arms" of the painters tape that you created when you cut out the stencil is actually quite difficult. Also, cutting out the stencils is pretty tedious and your fingers will hurt for a week. Your vision will also suffer from staring at digital camo for 3 days straight.

But, other than the onset of arthritis and going blind...no negative side effects and you come out with a really cool looking custom paint job that you have the satisfaction of knowing you did yourself.

I hope all of that made sense, but if not...feel free to ask more questions and I'd be glad to help you out.

All in all, I had over 20+ hours in the paint job. I sold the rifle a few months back for $300 and I've regretted it ever since!

JTLIII · 01-12-2011, 06:58

Not an AR but here is my AK I gave some color. My environment is swampland, so I wanted to go for a moldy green look. Took about 5 minutes to do and 8 months later is still holding up well

I still plan to do a quick spray on each side to put a small amount of brown to further help the swamp camo.

Andrewsky · 01-12-2011, 19:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by pleaforwar

If you are going to say the method I use is a "bad idea", do me a favor and say why it is a bad idea.

Keep in mind, I personally have a rifle that was painted using the hanging method and two that have used the method in this thread. I see no negligible difference between the texture and/or quality of paint.

Texture and quality of paint won't be affected. But it's easier to spray while holding the can vertically. Also you don't have to wait for one side to dry before you do the other side.