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Old 08-09-2010, 07:55   #1201
TcRoc
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Any damage to your slide Rails from the frame rails rubbing??
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Old 08-09-2010, 12:58   #1202
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Mine pretty much show "even" wear.

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Old 08-09-2010, 13:38   #1203
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Is there any chance the "rail wear" was unnoticed from the beginning until now? What you are describing as rail wear is actually grind marks. We grind every rail after the frame has been molded. This process adds an extra step however ensures the best tolerance possible.

The first rails we produced were not stainless. They run fine in all the "in-house" frames. The prototype production released to you guys is 100% stainless. It is possible some of the original produced rails were accidently mixed into the last batch? I have no idea how it could happen but have no other way to explain.

Singlestack Wonder: There are real pepole here working on a real project. Why would you go out of your way to post a comment like that? If you don't have anything constructive to contribute why would you even bother?
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Old 08-09-2010, 13:54   #1204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JR View Post
The first rails we produced were not stainless. They run fine in all the "in-house" frames. The prototype production released to you guys is 100% stainless. It is possible some of the original produced rails were accidently mixed into the last batch? I have no idea how it could happen but have no other way to explain.
My rails are stainless.
Stainless can rust.
The discoloration (rust) is on the inside of the rails. This is the area that is stretched from being bent.
Only suggestion I can make is for the rails to be coated with oil prior to shipment.
I ordered all the parts I need today. I am gonna use the locking block out of my G21 since everyone is out of them.
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Old 08-09-2010, 14:25   #1205
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Originally Posted by DrugRunR View Post
I am gonna use the locking block out of my G21 since everyone is out of them.
Hope you mistyped that
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Old 08-09-2010, 14:56   #1206
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Here is a pic of mine,, will get out to do some testing this week.
All went together fine,no rust, pin lenths are fine , locking block popped right in,mag release just seems to light for carry.
The frame rails look as pictured by others,, will keep a eye on

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Old 08-09-2010, 16:15   #1207
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Originally Posted by DrugRunR View Post
I am gonna use the locking block out of my G21 since everyone is out of them.

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Hope you mistyped that
Locking block for a 21 is the same if it is a 2002 or later model. All current full size frames use 1447.
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Old 08-09-2010, 17:57   #1208
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Hope you mistyped that
No, I didn't mistype it

According to LoneWolf
http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.a...OD=392&CAT=137

* M17,17L,34 (current 3 pin models, mid 2002 and later)
* M20.20SF,21,21SF,Ambi 37 (fits current models only, mid 2002 and later)
* M22,24,31,35 (fits current models only, mid 2002 and later)

Part number 19 on the Glock Schematic.
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Old 08-09-2010, 19:46   #1209
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learned something new
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Old 08-09-2010, 22:41   #1210
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Originally Posted by TcRoc View Post
Any damage to your slide Rails from the frame rails rubbing??
no damage to the slides that ran on it, teniffer is still harder than stainless.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JR View Post
Is there any chance the "rail wear" was unnoticed from the beginning until now? What you are describing as rail wear is actually grind marks. We grind every rail after the frame has been molded. This process adds an extra step however ensures the best tolerance possible.

The first rails we produced were not stainless. They run fine in all the "in-house" frames. The prototype production released to you guys is 100% stainless. It is possible some of the original produced rails were accidently mixed into the last batch? I have no idea how it could happen but have no other way to explain.

Singlestack Wonder: There are real pepole here working on a real project. Why would you go out of your way to post a comment like that? If you don't have anything constructive to contribute why would you even bother?
no chance, I (and a half dozen others) went over it pretty carefully before it was even assembled, first impression was they seemed a little rough (the rails.....and some of the guys), I resisted the urge to take a stone to them and remove the sharp edges. you might have missed my earlier post. right rear rail is somewhere between .015 and .020 low measuring off the frame, I know calipers aren't the most accurate tool but I haven't found the time to get it on granite and height gauge, and to be honest, it's clearly visible and not just by the wear on the rails.

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Old 08-10-2010, 06:22   #1211
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no damage to the slides that ran on it, teniffer is still harder than stainless.



no chance, I (and a half dozen others) went over it pretty carefully before it was even assembled, first impression was they seemed a little rough (the rails.....and some of the guys), I resisted the urge to take a stone to them and remove the sharp edges. you might have missed my earlier post. right rear rail is somewhere between .015 and .020 low measuring off the frame, I know calipers aren't the most accurate tool but I haven't found the time to get it on granite and height gauge, and to be honest, it's clearly visible and not just by the wear on the rails.

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After seeing this I checked mine,,,looks similar ,, haven't fired it yet but can see the rear rails aren't quite inline with each other
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Old 08-10-2010, 13:26   #1212
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Somehow the rear rail was loading incorrectly and got into a bind, we caught the issue and made the adjustments in time for the next production run.
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Old 08-10-2010, 15:33   #1213
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Well, this past weekend I put together the frame without any further issues. JR, sorry too late to take pictures of the rusty rails. I took care of mine with Flitz and a bit of elbow grease. I'm glad to hear that they are supposed to be Stainless, but I ask you to see if it is possible to plate them for further durability and corrosion resistance. The ideal finish for me would be the Nickel Boron plating (Fails Zero or Cera Plate) followed by the nickel teflon (NP3).
All the parts went into the frame without any issues.The locking block was tight, but not a big deal. Regarding magazines, my frame is tight with all of the .40 SW Glock mags. Older mags and even the latest 22 rounders. Hard to push in and you have to yank them out. In 9mm, no problems with the Glock, KCI and ATI mags. It's strange, but this is the way the cookie crumbles.
Fit and finish are very good, I love the ergonomics, but the following are my initial observations (before shooting it):

1. The slide sits up a bit higher when its mounted on this frame. I'm using a Gen 2 slide (the only Glock 17 I have) so it will have to do. There is a noticeable gap belween the frame and the slide.

2. There is a noticeable gap between the slide and the frame around the front and the dust cover area). I will take pictures of this and include it in a future post.

I would love to see the close ups of this from others to see if this is an issue with the Gen. 2 slides or the same gap is present with the Gen. 3's and the Lonewolf slides.

3. Slide is nice and tight on the frame. No vertical or horizontal movement at all!

All in all I'm happy with this. Not bad for a prototype (Proto16X). Now, let's see how she shoots.
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Old 08-10-2010, 17:07   #1214
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Somehow the rear rail was loading incorrectly and got into a bind, we caught the issue and made the adjustments in time for the next production run.
Are the rails a 400 series stainless?
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Old 08-10-2010, 18:55   #1215
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Somehow the rear rail was loading incorrectly and got into a bind, we caught the issue and made the adjustments in time for the next production run.
despite that it is the rear rails not the front do think that the decrease in tolerance resulting from the offset rails could generate enough drag to cause the feed and ejection issues some of us have been having?

would explain why I had to use an old guide rod/spring to get it to run half decent in 9mm.

I don't suppose I could get a min rail thickness dimension?
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Old 08-10-2010, 21:35   #1216
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Somehow the rear rail was loading incorrectly and got into a bind, we caught the issue and made the adjustments in time for the next production run.
Do you happen to know what serial # range on the Proto's have the corrected rails? Thanks.

O
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Old 08-11-2010, 02:19   #1217
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Do you happen to know what serial # range on the Proto's have the corrected rails? Thanks.

O
None would be my guess ,his post says corrected for next Production run
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Old 08-11-2010, 09:14   #1218
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JR,

I have about 800 rounds now through mine. It will likely be a 1-2 weeks before I can get another 200 through it. Do you want the survey completed now or is it worth it to wait until I get to 1K rounds. I am not sure your timing on wanting the feedback.
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Old 08-11-2010, 21:05   #1219
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Seems some of the rail issues are more predominate than others. We had not investigated until it was brought up by a couple of you guys.

The issue was caused because the first rails were machined & the proto production were stamped. The holding fixture would sometimes interfere with the rounded part of the inside bend on the stamped rails. This was not an issue with machined rails.

Like I said, this issue is corrected for sure now.
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Old 08-12-2010, 05:48   #1220
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Got to the range and all went until around the 100 round mark ,,, than the magazine started falling out after each shot.
The mag release is not being touched by my hand,, the magazine will stay in place until gun is fired,
I didn't dig threw all the previous pages,,anybody else have this problem?

Other than that all was great until than,,, will take a look at issue more today
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:33   #1221
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Maybe you could ship this one back for inspection? I would like to see the problem first hand since we can not duplicate it here. Email me direct at lonewolf@lonewolfdist.com
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:48   #1222
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Maybe you could ship this one back for inspection? I would like to see the problem first hand since we can not duplicate it here. Email me direct at lonewolf@lonewolfdist.com
Email sent
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Old 08-12-2010, 19:49   #1223
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Got to the range and all went until around the 100 round mark ,,, than the magazine started falling out after each shot.
The mag release is not being touched by my hand,, the magazine will stay in place until gun is fired,
I didn't dig threw all the previous pages,,anybody else have this problem?

Quote:
Originally Posted by scratchy wilson View Post
Finally got to go out and shoot a little.

1st magazine would eject on its own without the release being pressed. After about five rounds I switched to a 33 round stick which had no problems. Shooting buddy ran a flawless standard magazine, after which I ran the remainder of the first magazine without issue.
Hope to get out this weekend to try again.
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Old 08-13-2010, 11:21   #1224
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Got to the range and all went until around the 100 round mark ,,, than the magazine started falling out after each shot.
The mag release is not being touched by my hand,, the magazine will stay in place until gun is fired,
I didn't dig threw all the previous pages,,anybody else have this problem?

Other than that all was great until than,,, will take a look at issue more today
Update

Ok ,went back to the range,,here is what I found,
look at the 2 mags ,, the one on the left is the one falling out,, the one on the right is new.

The one on the left with the deforming works fine in my stock RTF Frame,but is falling out when fired out of the Proto frame.

The one on the right I just fired 100 accucrate rounds thru 1 target with the Proto Frame posted below with zero issues.

So the wearing on the older mag is the problem,, if a mag is a little worn it may fall out of the proto.
The only thing is it didn't develop the problem til around the 100 round mark
I will use the mag on the right for more testing to see if it holds up.

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Old 08-14-2010, 17:01   #1225
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Finally picked up my frame, and it was my FFL's first transfer!! Assembly went pretty smooth, feels a little rough, but not too bad. I'm already concerned with how the mag release is gonna do.
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