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08-30-2010, 11:37
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#1251
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GT Sponsor
Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Oldtown Idaho USA
Posts: 3,924
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Yah, of course! This is not a problem. Replacement parts will go out as needed.
FYI: There were a few complaints regarding the frame. Our objective is to address any/every bug associated with the prototype run.
A few guys complained about the grips unlocking. We shipped the new improved grips and see this issue is resolved.
The MR issue is sure to be resolved with the release of the improved version, I am betting on it.
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08-30-2010, 12:53
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#1252
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JR
Yah, of course! This is not a problem. Replacement parts will go out as needed.
FYI: There were a few complaints regarding the frame. Our objective is to address any/every bug associated with the prototype run.
A few guys complained about the grips unlocking. We shipped the new improved grips and see this issue is resolved.
The MR issue is sure to be resolved with the release of the improved version, I am betting on it.
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JR,
Any plans to release more types of rear grips?
I ask because I really like the flat one. The curved one feels strange to me, the hump isn't in the same place as the Glock OEM grip so it feels strange.
I'd really like to see the flat one with a bob-tailed bottom, really curved at the bottom into the frame. Maybe even bob-tail the bottom of the frame as well.
I have a couple of bob-tailed 1911's and really like the feel of those. Your flat grip panel on the LWD frame really makes the Glock feel much nicer to me, not as blocky. I don't have any trouble shooting large frame pistols, but do like a slim grip more than a larger grip and a bobtail would be awesome.
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08-30-2010, 14:45
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#1253
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GT Sponsor
Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Oldtown Idaho USA
Posts: 3,924
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We can do anything we want with the grip. We will see how the situation plays out and then provide product for the masses. The most important thing right now is to get the regular production rolling. We have a viable product and a need to fill it before moving on.
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08-30-2010, 20:00
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#1254
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 72
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I want to mention how impressed I am with Lonewolf - this project is very difficult and expensive for them to undertake. I have the impression these are folks of real integrity and determination. The shooting community benefits greatly from these alternatives and I appreciate the effort.
Thanks LoneWolf.
Jim
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09-03-2010, 05:55
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#1255
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Reston Virginia
Posts: 123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JR
I didn't notice until now. The for-end seems to have dropped away? I don’t have any explanation for it?
Remove the slide and place it upside down on a table (rails on table). This way you will be able to measure the distance it curves.
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JR, I'll be away from home until after Labor Day weekend. Once back i will take more pictures and measurements and send you the info. I really want this LW receiver to work out. I feel like you have a great thing going here. Im also interested in buying the G19 and G21 versions when they are launched. I'll also be in for at least another one of the original frames when its debugged.
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09-03-2010, 11:09
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#1256
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Athens, AL, & Louisville, KY, USA
Posts: 513
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An update: I have been carrying my TimberWolf-framed G17 and shooting it when I can. My once trouble-free magazine catch has just started causing trouble. I was midway through a magazine at my backyard range when the magazine dropped to the deck.
I reinstalled the magazine and attempted to continue shooting. Got off two more shots and the magazine released. Swapped magazines to no avail as the ten OEM magazines I was using all dropped without me pressing the release button while shooting. So I took it inside and took it apart. I was hoping to perhaps find a sliver of gilding jacket metal that had lodged in the release, causing the issue, but no dice. The magazine catch just seems to no longer securely retain the magazine.
My round count is a bit over 2300 at this time.
Can I request a replacement catch when those are ready to see if it fixes my issue? I would be happy to pay for the part and the shipping.
__________________
Scott
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09-03-2010, 12:28
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#1257
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodi1
JR, I'll be away from home until after Labor Day weekend. Once back i will take more pictures and measurements and send you the info. I really want this LW receiver to work out. I feel like you have a great thing going here. Im also interested in buying the G19 and G21 versions when they are launched. I'll also be in for at least another one of the original frames when its debugged. 
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Mine looks similar to yours, just not quite as bad. It's sloped downward at the front like yours. The opposite of pig-nose.
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09-03-2010, 15:24
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#1258
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GT Sponsor
Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Oldtown Idaho USA
Posts: 3,924
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If you are experiencing grip problems, let me know and I will send replacements.
When the improved MR is available I will gladly send replacements. I will post here when they are ready.
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09-03-2010, 19:39
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#1259
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Athens, AL, & Louisville, KY, USA
Posts: 513
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Thanks for the great support of the prototype frames. That is very classy and it will be remembered.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JR
If you are experiencing grip problems, let me know and I will send replacements.
When the improved MR is available I will gladly send replacements. I will post here when they are ready.
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__________________
Scott
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09-03-2010, 22:15
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#1260
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Mountlake Terrace, WA
Posts: 342
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Just curious has any manufacturers ever done something like this? Allowing consumers to help test pre-production products before full production? Mostly people find problems after full production and you always get the "i'll wait till all the bugs are worked out until i buy" comments.
Big props to Lone Wolf for doing this.
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09-04-2010, 15:01
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#1261
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Reston Virginia
Posts: 123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juicespeare1
Mine looks similar to yours, just not quite as bad. It's sloped downward at the front like yours. The opposite of pig-nose.
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Any pictures of yours? I am going to try to post more pictures when I get home. I think it would be helpful if you show a picture on how it compares with the Glock frame.
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09-04-2010, 22:01
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#1262
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodi1
Any pictures of yours? I am going to try to post more pictures when I get home. I think it would be helpful if you show a picture on how it compares with the Glock frame.
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Pics coming soon, I can't login to my Photobucket account right now, but will soon.
I will reveal the world's first "Alligator Mouth" LWD frame in appropriate OD green color.
I will edit this post with the pics as soon as I can login.
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09-04-2010, 22:48
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#1263
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 74
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09-04-2010, 22:50
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#1264
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 74
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The images above show my son holding the firearm.
The yellowish stuff on the barrel is CLP, not rust.
As you can see mine has "Alligator Mouth" as so called by Doodi1.
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09-05-2010, 03:51
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#1265
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: MICHIGAN
Posts: 2,625
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The green looks pretty good.
__________________
*G19*G26*
*etc*etc*etc*
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09-05-2010, 04:04
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#1266
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Da Jaila'
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,226
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that OD frame seems to have reverse pig nose
__________________
Ruger is coming out with a new pistol in honor of Senators and Representatives.
It will be named the "Congressman".
It doesn't work and you can't fire it.
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09-05-2010, 05:04
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#1267
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emopunker2004
that OD frame seems to have reverse pig nose
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Yeah, Doodi1 coined the term "Alligator Mouth" for it.
I'm slowly working to fix that by heating the rail with a hair dryer and applying pressure upward on the end of the rail/dust cover to push it up to fill the gap.
My son and I worked on it a bit last night and it's now better than the pics show, but still needs more work to get it right.
The oven curing of the Cerakote OD green caused it to get worse. Also, the oven curing made my mag drop issue reappear. So it's back to sanding the inside of the grip to allow my mags to drop free again.
I don't recommend using oven cure paints for this frame. Since I have both oven cure and air cure versions and this is a proto frame, I wanted to see how the oven cure would work. I guess when I get my non-proto frame I'll use the air cure Cerakote instead.
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09-05-2010, 05:15
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#1268
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 173
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air cure is better
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09-05-2010, 11:01
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#1269
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 535
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Duracoat?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by BEER
male female or other, that critter is just not attractive.
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--On Lady Gaga
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09-05-2010, 13:58
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#1270
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Illinois
Posts: 538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juicespeare1
As you can see mine has "Alligator Mouth" as so called by Doodi1.
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How hot was the oven? How long did you bake it?
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09-05-2010, 14:58
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#1271
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WDN
How hot was the oven? How long did you bake it?
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250F for 35 minutes twice to draw out all the oils. Cleaned with 91% alcohol prior to both initial baking periods to draw out all oils. Had to bake twice as there was still a little oil seeping from one of the front rails after the first baking.
After that painted with Cerakote OG Green H formula (oven cure) and baked at 200F for 2 hours to cure.
All temps where the Nic Industries recommended temps for plastic parts.
I'm not exactly sure when the "Alligator Mouth" got worse. It might have happened during the initial baking periods or during the actual curing period.
In any case I already had some "Alligator Mouth" prior to the entire process and received it that way from LWD.
It's not really that big of a deal as some judicious heating with a hair dryer and pressure on the front of the dust cover/rail has returned it back to the initial state. My son and I will be working on it more today to get it perfect.
I've already fixed the mag drop issue that got worse after the baking and all my mags now drop free again. That only takes some sanding by trial and error, a lot of trial and error. In any case when I received my frame from LWD my mags wouldn't drop free either, so the same method I used then to fix it, I used again after the baking to fix it again.
I know that I'll be able to fix the "Alligator Mouth" with some work with the hair dryer and pressure like I stated above.
These are unfortunate issues but I believe they will both be addressed in the final product.
I still would not recommend any paint that requires baking to cure.
In any case the air cure Cerakote is just as durable as the oven cure from what I've seen. I've used the air cure on AR lowers and it's tough too.
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09-05-2010, 14:58
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#1272
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 74
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250F for 35 minutes twice to draw out all the oils. Cleaned with 91% alcohol prior to both initial baking periods to draw out all oils. Had to bake twice as there was still a little oil seeping from one of the front rails after the first baking.
After that painted with Cerakote OG Green H formula (oven cure) and baked at 200F for 2 hours to cure.
All temps where the Nic Industries recommended temps for plastic parts.
I'm not exactly sure when the "Alligator Mouth" got worse. It might have happened during the initial baking periods or during the actual curing period.
In any case I already had some "Alligator Mouth" prior to the entire process and received it that way from LWD.
It's not really that big of a deal as some judicious heating with a hair dryer and pressure on the front of the dust cover/rail has returned it back to the initial state. My son and I will be working on it more today to get it perfect.
I've already fixed the mag drop issue that got worse after the baking and all my mags now drop free again. That only takes some sanding by trial and error, a lot of trial and error. In any case when I received my frame from LWD my mags wouldn't drop free either, so the same method I used then to fix it, I used again after the baking to fix it again.
I know that I'll be able to fix the "Alligator Mouth" with some work with the hair dryer and pressure like I stated above.
These are unfortunate issues but I believe they will both be addressed in the final product.
I still would not recommend any paint that requires baking to cure.
In any case the air cure Cerakote is just as durable as the oven cure from what I've seen. I've used the air cure on AR lowers and it's tough too.
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09-05-2010, 14:58
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#1273
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 74
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Hmm that's weird, double post.
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09-05-2010, 16:51
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#1274
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Reston Virginia
Posts: 123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juicespeare1
Yeah, Doodi1 coined the term "Alligator Mouth" for it.
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That green color (which BTW, I like a lot ) really makes it the Gator Mouth!
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09-07-2010, 14:43
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#1275
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 535
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Thought I'd throw up a pic of my very first round through my G17 wearing the timberwolf Proto127. I was re-using a rifle target, and the only shot I took on this one was the pink in the center...the other are 325 WSM rifle rounds...
No matter who you are, it always feels good to hit a bullseye!
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by BEER
male female or other, that critter is just not attractive.
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--On Lady Gaga
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