Reloading 101 - Page 3

NewGlockShooter · 05-17-2011, 18:43

Well, considering that my next endeavor is reloading, this information is invaluable to me, so thank you for taking the time to post stuff like this in plain english.

I guess I should also be happy that my goal for reloading is simply to reduce my target ammo cost, and not to see how

my reloads can get.

**vote Republican** · 05-17-2011, 18:52

Thread stuck. Please leave your shoes by the door so you don't track mud in.

unclebob · 05-17-2011, 18:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewGlockShooter

I guess I should also be happy that my goal for reloading is simply to reduce my target ammo cost, and not to see how

my reloads can get.

The more that you save the more you will shoot. You will start a vicious cycle. Welcome to the wonder full world of reloading.
Read my signature line.

GioaJack · 05-17-2011, 19:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by vote Republican

Thread stuck. Please leave your shoes by the door so you don't track mud in.

Yeah, sure, now the moderator shows up. Where is he when all the young'uns are making sport of sick, old people?

This place is rigged I tell ya.

Jack

Zombie Steve · 05-17-2011, 23:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by garander

Frame of mind. And reloading under the influence of bourbon!

Added under "some final thoughts". Thanks.

Zombie Steve · 05-17-2011, 23:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewGlockShooter

Well, considering that my next endeavor is reloading, this information is invaluable to me, so thank you for taking the time to post stuff like this in plain english.

I guess I should also be happy that my goal for reloading is simply to reduce my target ammo cost, and not to see how

my reloads can get.

Looking forward to seeing you in the forum.

shotgunred · 05-18-2011, 06:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewGlockShooter

Well, considering that my next endeavor is reloading, this information is invaluable to me, so thank you for taking the time to post stuff like this in plain english.

I guess I should also be happy that my goal for reloading is simply to reduce my target ammo cost, and not to see how

my reloads can get.

You can get your reloads

and stronger until you blow up your gun, and hopefully not your hand. Seeing how strong you can make a round is a bad thing for a new reloader. If you want to push the pressure envelope you should just get a bigger caliber made for it. Unless you want us to call you lefty.

byf43 · 05-18-2011, 12:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zombie Steve

Well played.

Zombie Steve · 05-19-2011, 18:46

New guys - if your ammo looks like this:

You're doing it wrong. Just thought I'd clarify.

Berto · 05-27-2011, 18:51

I thought those looked kickass.

I want a .38sp load that will drive a 200gr 1000fps, from a snubby.
Hook a brotha up.

Seriously, this is the most serious ZS thread I've seen. WTF.

Zombie Steve · 05-27-2011, 22:06

Strange things happen when I can't sleep.

glock20c10mm · 07-12-2011, 18:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zombie Steve

Taper Crimping (Auto loading handguns): The important concept to walk away with here.....Again, you just want to remove the flare you put in the case. So how far do you go? A decent rule of thumb is the thickness of the brass times two, plus the diameter of your bullet.....

Brass Thickness x 2 + Bullet Diameter = ???What???

I don't get it. In reference to what, aside from telling me how much to taper crimp? If anyone could spell this out in oversimplified terms it would be much appreciated.

I'm sure the answer is much simpler to understand than I could ever imagine, but...

Zombie Steve · 07-12-2011, 18:28

The thickness of one side of your brass wall (for example, .12") times two (one for each side) plus the diameter of your bullet. If you're shooting a .451" bullet, this would be taper crimping to roughly .69" measuring the outside of the case at the mouth.

Is that what you're asking?

glock20c10mm · 07-12-2011, 18:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zombie Steve

The thickness of one side of your brass wall (for example, .12") times two (one for each side) plus the diameter of your bullet. If you're shooting a .451" bullet, this would be taper crimping to roughly .69" measuring the outside of the case at the mouth.

Is that what you're asking?

I get that, but not what it's supposed to tell me to equal or compared to what.

Wait, I think I just figured out what I couldn't comprehend. So whatever the formula equals is what the case mouth, where it was flared before being crimped, should now equal after being crimped?

Colorado4Wheel · 07-12-2011, 19:48

Side 1 + Bullet + Side 2 = Final Crimp (outside diameter)
.120 + .451 + .120 = .691

If your bullet was .450 it would be .690"
If your case is .121 and the bullet .451 then your crimp is .693"

Or you could just hold it up to the light and look for a slight outward flare. Keep removing the flare by lowering the die a little at at time till the flare is gone. I never measure crimp. And everyone knows I like to measure stuff.

glock20c10mm · 07-12-2011, 20:44

Crazy how the obvious can be so complicated.

Thanks for your help!

Armchair · 07-13-2011, 07:35

"Trimming, Chamfering and Deburring: It’s doubtful you’ll ever do it on brass for auto loading handguns."

Wait, so you're telling me that Lee sells pistol case trimming equipment just as a way to make money off of people who, like me, don't know better?

I want to get set up to reload, but do you guys seriously never trim cases? Do you just check them with a caliper every once in a while? I'd love to skip the trimming and save money on equipment, but I've got to say (not being experienced) that I'm suspicious.

Any further information/experience would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Rinspeed · 07-13-2011, 08:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Armchair

I want to get set up to reload, but do you guys seriously never trim cases?

I've reloaded for 15 years and have never trimmed pistol brass ever.

Colorado4Wheel · 07-13-2011, 08:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Armchair

"Trimming, Chamfering and Deburring: It’s doubtful you’ll ever do it on brass for auto loading handguns."

Wait, so you're telling me that Lee sells pistol case trimming equipment just as a way to make money off of people who, like me, don't know better?

I want to get set up to reload, but do you guys seriously never trim cases? Do you just check them with a caliper every once in a while? I'd love to skip the trimming and save money on equipment, but I've got to say (not being experienced) that I'm suspicious.

Any further information/experience would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Trimming is a total waste of time in pistol. Ignore it.

unclebob · 07-13-2011, 08:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Armchair

"Trimming, Chamfering and Deburring: It’s doubtful you’ll ever do it on brass for auto loading handguns."

Wait, so you're telling me that Lee sells pistol case trimming equipment just as a way to make money off of people who, like me, don't know better? YES

I want to get set up to reload, but do you guys seriously never trim cases? Do you just check them with a caliper every once in a while? I'd love to skip the trimming and save money on equipment, but I've got to say (not being experienced) that I'm suspicious.

Any further information/experience would be much appreciated. Thanks.

You only need to trim rifle cases. Yes, there are people that like to trim Pistol brass but it is not needed. I don’t even check the pistol brass length with anything. There just is no reason in my opinion to do so.

Zombie Steve · 07-13-2011, 09:39

I only will trim rimmed cartridges like .44 mag so that when I roll crimp them into a cannelure they are more consistent. When the brass is new, they're usually within a few thousandths of each other, so I don't usually have to do this until they've been fired a few times. I'll trim them once, and usually by the time they're out of whack again, they're usually near the end of their useful life anyway (depending on the load). I almost never will trim them a second time.

I never trim .45 auto or 9mm (the only two semi-auto cartridges I load). I have screwed around with it just to see. I got slightly tighter numbers over a chronograph, but nothing that I noticed in terms of accuracy. It really just doesn't matter.

Zombie Steve · 07-13-2011, 09:43

Also - you can check them with a caliper after resizing if you'd like, or you can do the plunk test on the back end of the process (see my section on taper crimp) to make sure they aren't too long. Extremely doubtful they ever will be, but it never hurts to check.

Plunk test (not my photo, just found it online):

Armchair · 07-13-2011, 13:27

OK, then. Well, that's reassuring. The plunk test definitely sounds like a good idea. (I'm only going to be reloading 9mm and .45 ACP.)

I appreciate the responses!

One other thing, however. Roughly how many reloadings do you guys estimate that you get out of decent brass, on average? Have you developed a rule of thumb about how many times you'll reload cases, even if you haven't yet seen any cracks, etc?

Thanks.

Zombie Steve · 07-13-2011, 13:31

Well, Jack will load them even after they've split.

Most not affected by dementia will tell you with 9 and 45 you're more likely to lose them before they go bad. Just keep loading them until they split. Of course, it depends on the load. Most likely the primer pocket will get too loose before anything else happens.

Magnum rounds and rifle are a different story IMHO.

Armchair · 07-13-2011, 13:54

Gotcha. Hadn't thought about the primer pocket issue.

Do you find that cases can generally be reloaded ten times before you have more than just the odd split here and there? I'm trying to get a sense of how much brass I'll need to keep on hand, how quickly I'll likely have to replace it, and how much I'll need to spend just on brass.

I realize the answer will depend on a good number of factors, but thought there might be a ballpark number for these calibers that could be used for calculation purposes? Please excuse if this is a stupid newbie question.