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Old 08-16-2011, 07:26   #1
Machine154
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3x got 'click' only in USPSA shoot - looking for help

I was shooting USPSA (rookie shooter) this past weekend with my 3rd Gen G17. It probably has 3k rounds through it and is stock except sights. I am shooting the same reloads as always and it was actually a little cooler than usual, so my W231 loads of 4.25gr with 124gr FMJ should have been more effective if anything. I also case gauge every round. I have only done the recommended manual maintenance and never a full takedown.

Anyway, three different times mid-course of fire I had just a click with no primer fire. Under the gun for time, I just stripped the round off by racking and it went flying behind me, so I obviously can't comment on the primer strike. I texted an acquaintance of mine that took an armorers school and he said to look at the disconnect and trigger safety, since I replied 'yes' to his question of whether it was a 'mushy' click. I am not exactly what to look for, since it isn't a total failure. I was thinking maybe it would be a recoil spring issue maybe (not fully in battery?) or maybe a dirty striker.

Anyone have this issue and resolve it? I haven't had any previous issues with this gun and am shooting the same reloads.

Last edited by Machine154; 08-16-2011 at 07:33..
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:42   #2
Taykaim
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I know this is probably not what you want to hear, but if you had that many trigger pulls, where the primer didn't ignite, and the gun hasnt has issues before, its probably not the gun.

If its all from one batch, I'd shoot more from that batch and see if you have issues with them. Also, double check your primers. My glocks have always been able to handle harder primers, so this hasn't been an issue for me. I know you said yours is stock, but if you had a reduced power spring, and or a lighter striker, that would be a recipe for inconsistent primer ignition.

In short, I'd say shoot it more, and make sure to test fire from every batch before taking them into competition. If you got it used, you might detail strip it and look for crap in the striker channel, or those aftermarket items I mentioned. Actually, if you (or the previous owner if applicable) have bad lubrication and cleaning habits, it might be a good idea to check whats in the striker channel regardless.
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:44   #3
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you may want to try taking the glock to the range and going through some drills to see if you can recreate the issue, but I wouldn't think it needed.

Have you ever detail stripped a glock? Or is your armorer friend close enough that he could do it?

Any other issues with your gun during the match?
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Old 08-16-2011, 08:01   #4
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Thanks for the quick replies. I bought the gun new. I shot 300 rounds Sunday across 6 stages (3 reshoots due to stage equipment failures). Two of the occurrences were in one stage and the third was a different stage I have never detail stripped it, but am pretty good about cleaning it. I guess it is time for me to learn probably, considering the # rounds I am shooting now. Is there a recommended book or video without doing an armorers school? I am a DIY kind of guy whenever possible.

Oh- no other issues during the match (except bad trigger control by the operator).

Last edited by Machine154; 08-16-2011 at 08:17..
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Old 08-16-2011, 08:14   #5
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There are a few glock armorers manuals on the net in PDF form as well as many videos, feel free to shoot me a PM if you get stuck and I can call you, but honestly, Glocks are very easy to detail strip, just make sure you know what you are supposed to do, and you will need a 3/32 punch. Also, don't worry about removing the spring cups/striker spring from the striker unless you have to as that is not only a pain, but those spring cups like to go missing.
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Old 08-16-2011, 14:17   #6
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You are having failure to ignite primers. Either your primers are faulty, or too hard, or your striker is being impeded

Detail strip your slide, as you are intending. Remember than anything under the back slide cover is under spring tension and will fly off the first time you remove it. Google "glock schematic" to see the parts that will come out.

Clean the inside of the firing (striker) pin channel with a Q-tip-- (if possible blow out with air or brake cleaner) as well as the striker assembly. Examine the pieces- springs, striker tip, beech face. If pieces of plastic fall out of the channel, you need to replace the channel cup.

DO NOT LUBE the channels. You can upgrade to a Wolf 6 pound striker spring for extra measure.
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Old 08-16-2011, 14:29   #7
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Originally Posted by cciman View Post
You are having failure to ignite primers. Either your primers are faulty, or too hard, or your striker is being impeded

Detail strip your slide, as you are intending. Remember than anything under the back slide cover is under spring tension and will fly off the first time you remove it. Google "glock schematic" to see the parts that will come out.

Clean the inside of the firing (striker) pin channel with a Q-tip-- (if possible blow out with air or brake cleaner) as well as the striker assembly. Examine the pieces- springs, striker tip, beech face. If pieces of plastic fall out of the channel, you need to replace the channel cup.

DO NOT LUBE the channels. You can upgrade to a Wolf 6 pound striker spring for extra measure.
Or not fully seated. Are your primers slightly recessed when seated? If not, the striker can be pushing the primer farther into the pocket causing the primer not to ignite. My money is on this.
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Old 08-16-2011, 21:24   #8
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Stating the obvious, but 'Glocks do not work well with reloads. and/or reloads do not work well in Glocks".

You cannot sustain the same tolerance consistency as mass produced ammo-- analogous to trying to make Miller beer consistently at home.

Having been to multiple hi-volume shooting schools, the guys with the most FTF's (in both Glocks, and Sigs) were those shooting reloads.
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Old 08-17-2011, 00:07   #9
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My purely speculative guess would be a failure to fully lock into battery, perhaps caused by worn brass. Even though you gauge every round (a very good idea, IMO), you might have a few cases that have a dent and/or burr on the case rim. When the round slides up under the extractor, any raised area hitting the extractor might cause the slide to stop slightly short of fully locking, but when the striker falls, it may complete the chambering/locking motion, so when you look at the gun after the dreaded "click", everything looks fine.

Shoot up more of this ammo batch (if you have any) in practice, and if you have any more stoppages, extract and recover the round and check it closely for burrs/dents or other case defects which might pass the gauge check but cause a stoppage when firing. The list would include burrs, flat spots on the rim, dented rims, or bent rims (reduces the size of the extractor cut-out or groove, ahead of the rim, and can also bind the extractor). I wouldn't worry about the weapon unless it starts doing it with factory loads, or it gets much worse and you absolutely can't find any problems with the ammo.
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Old 08-22-2011, 15:00   #10
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Originally Posted by cciman View Post
Stating the obvious, but 'Glocks do not work well with reloads. and/or reloads do not work well in Glocks".You cannot sustain the same tolerance consistency as mass produced ammo-- analogous to trying to make Miller beer consistently at home.

Having been to multiple hi-volume shooting schools, the guys with the most FTF's (in both Glocks, and Sigs) were those shooting reloads.
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Old 08-23-2011, 21:52   #11
Machine154
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Well, I have never had any troubles with my reloads.

I took my gun apart tonight, the first time as a detail strip, and found that the firing pin channel was pretty cruddy and the spacer sleeve was almost sticky. I imagine that the outside surface of the spacer sleeve doesn't matter though, right? I turned 3 Q-tips black cleaning out the interior spaces. There was even a small chunk of crud that came out with the extractor.

We'll see, but it seems that it was dirty enough that maybe the firing pin was being restrained.
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