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Old 09-16-2011, 15:48   #1
brianfede
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Just bought my first 1911

Ordered a Ruger1911 in May, dealer just informed me that he probably won't have that firearm until next year, so I decided to look for another gun. I went to my local gun shop intent on purchasing a Kimber Stainless used for $720 or a new SA GI. Well, long story short, I ended up with a brand new Colt series 70 100 years of service 1911. Paid $870, not sure if that was a good deal or not. Anyway, can't wait to shoot it. I do have a question if someone can give me a hand. When I line up the stop slide to press it back into the gun, it seem that the only way to push the stop slide back into the weapon is by either 1. tapping on it with a rubber end of my screw driver or 2. using a ball point pen to push back the pin. I'm brand new to the 1911 platform so excuse my ignorance but is this really how I am supposed to put the stop slide back? Or is there a better way?
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Old 09-16-2011, 16:09   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianfede View Post
Well, long story short, I ended up with a brand new Colt series 70 100 years of service 1911. Paid $870, not sure if that was a good deal or not.
That's a good price. A very good price for a brand stankin' new Colt Series 70.

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When I line up the stop slide to press it back into the gun, it seem that the only way to push the stop slide back into the weapon is by either 1. tapping on it with a rubber end of my screw driver or 2. using a ball point pen to push back the pin. I'm brand new to the 1911 platform so excuse my ignorance but is this really how I am supposed to put the stop slide back? Or is there a better way?
Some of them are fairly tight in the beginning, so yes, it's not unusual to need a rubber mallet to bang it back in place or push it out. Lots of people scratch the hell out of their gun's frames while putting the slide stop lever back in. DON'T be that person. If it doesn't want to go in, then either a) you've missed the swinging link (donut hole mounted to the barrel), or b) the slide needs a bit of wiggling. Be patient the first several times, shoot it a bit and it should loosen enough to push out and in with nothing but your finger strength.
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Old 09-16-2011, 16:13   #3
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I figured out how to line it up perfect with the beveled part, just wasn't so sure that using a rubber mallet was the norm. thanks for the reply. BTW that was part of the reason I didnt buy the Kimber, it was pretty scratched up near the stop slide lever.
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Old 09-16-2011, 16:21   #4
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You should NOT have to use any force to re-insert the slide stop.

Line up the barrel link with the pin holes in the frame by using a punch.

Insert the pin to the detent and CAREFULLY use the protrusion on the slide stop pin to cam the detent back into the tube and out of the way of the pin.

With practice, you'll get this down pretty good. A little lubrication between the two surfaces helps, but makes the job more slippery to control.

If you mark the frame with the pin, that's called an idiot mark. Appropriately so.
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Old 09-16-2011, 17:31   #5
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I suspect there are more long-time 1911 users that have guns with idiot marks than don't. Some lessons seem best learned the hard way. The option to "hammering in" the slide stop is to use a narrow blade (or edge of a credit card) to push in the plunger as you push in the slide stop. Congrats on the new Colt!!!
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Old 09-16-2011, 17:36   #6
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Old 09-16-2011, 17:39   #7
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Let's not get carried away. You don't have to hammer anything in, just a bit of a love tap with a rubber mallet or the handle of a screwdriver. Same thing with pushing it out when disassemble.

Some guns need it, some guns don't. After a while, everything snick in and out just by finger pressures.
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Old 09-16-2011, 17:44   #8
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Congrats on your 1911.As for the slide stop, I use a small flat tip screwdriver to carefully push the plunger spring in as push the slide stop into the frame.
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Old 09-16-2011, 17:49   #9
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Congrats on the new pistol!
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Old 09-16-2011, 17:55   #10
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Great buy! Any pics?

I had trouble putting my Springfield's slide stop back in at first. I was afraid I'd miss and scratch the finish.
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Old 09-16-2011, 20:10   #11
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Yeah, its impossible to get the slide stop lever in without a tap becuz the pin is just too long. Anyway, thanks for the replies. I post some pics tom.
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Old 09-17-2011, 01:47   #12
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I like the fact that you wrote "FIRST 1911" in your title...apparently you've been paying attention as it certainly won't be your last
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Old 09-17-2011, 18:32   #13
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Congrats.
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Old 09-17-2011, 19:09   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianfede View Post
Ordered a Ruger1911 in May, dealer just informed me that he probably won't have that firearm until next year, so I decided to look for another gun. I went to my local gun shop intent on purchasing a Kimber Stainless used for $720 or a new SA GI. Well, long story short, I ended up with a brand new Colt series 70 100 years of service 1911. Paid $870, not sure if that was a good deal or not. Anyway, can't wait to shoot it. I do have a question if someone can give me a hand. When I line up the stop slide to press it back into the gun, it seem that the only way to push the stop slide back into the weapon is by either 1. tapping on it with a rubber end of my screw driver or 2. using a ball point pen to push back the pin. I'm brand new to the 1911 platform so excuse my ignorance but is this really how I am supposed to put the stop slide back? Or is there a better way?
You made a very very good decision. The slide stop will function smoothly after a dozen rounds or so.

Last edited by Feanor; 09-17-2011 at 19:12..
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Old 09-17-2011, 19:32   #15
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When I read through the OP, I was like: "Meh... yuck!... hmm :/, oooh! aah! A COLT!"

You did good.

The slide stop is not bevelled so the plunger can snag on it. Just be careful putting it back in so you don't wind up with an idiot mark. Sometimes you may pop the thumb safety out a little to ease the pressure on the plunger. Then use a drivers license to put the thumb safety back in.
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Old 09-17-2011, 19:33   #16
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Congrats on the new 1911. My Kimber has an "idiot mark" from the first time I re-assembled it. I couldn't care less, its a gun, not a museum piece. It's all about learning about and enjoying the gun.
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Old 09-18-2011, 07:48   #17
brianfede
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I'm hooked

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Originally Posted by fistpoint View Post
I like the fact that you wrote "FIRST 1911" in your title...apparently you've been paying attention as it certainly won't be your last

Put 500 rounds though it last night. Absolute blast to shoot, though I didn't shoot it great, guess I need to head back to the range to practice. I can see how this platform can get expensive. Shot a guy's Colt, Baer and a Wison Combat. Must said the classic colt was sweet, just thinking about who carried that weapon in the day. The Wison Combat was the most accurate for me. Still want to try a Kimber. Any, rec's for cleaning the stainless on the outside of my Colt? it was pretty dirty. I used break free and it didnt work too well.
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Old 09-18-2011, 09:56   #18
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Old 09-18-2011, 14:30   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianfede View Post
Put 500 rounds though it last night. Absolute blast to shoot, though I didn't shoot it great, guess I need to head back to the range to practice. I can see how this platform can get expensive. Shot a guy's Colt, Baer and a Wison Combat. Must said the classic colt was sweet, just thinking about who carried that weapon in the day. The Wison Combat was the most accurate for me. Still want to try a Kimber. Any, rec's for cleaning the stainless on the outside of my Colt? it was pretty dirty. I used break free and it didnt work too well.
Break Free is garbage. Hoppes #9 all the way! It has never failed me.
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Old 09-18-2011, 14:56   #20
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Break Free is garbage. Hoppes #9 all the way! It has never failed me.
I also like good old Hoppes 9.
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Old 09-18-2011, 15:27   #21
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i give the hoppes #9 a try then...any oil recommendations? CLP ok there???
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