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Old 04-17-2012, 07:55   #1
RJHUB
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Duracoat on 870

Was planning on spraying duracoat on a used 870 receiver and bolt.
Anyone done this? DO's and DON'T's?

Not in too bad of shape, just scuffed and surface rust.
I plan to lightly sand and degrease.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-17-2012, 15:12   #2
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I've Duracoated a couple guns, but not an 870. Like any finish, it's all in the prep work.
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Old 04-17-2012, 15:58   #3
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I would not duracoat the bolt.

Dc is a pretty thick finish.

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Old 04-18-2012, 13:35   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by method View Post
I've Duracoated a couple guns, but not an 870. Like any finish, it's all in the prep work.
Do not paint the bolt. I did an older beat up 870 wingmaster and it turned out great. Just go to youtube and see how you need to prep it and paint it.
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Old 04-18-2012, 13:49   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJHUB View Post
Was planning on spraying duracoat on a used 870 receiver and bolt.
Anyone done this? DO's and DON'T's?

Not in too bad of shape, just scuffed and surface rust.
I plan to lightly sand and degrease.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I have duracoated a Remington 700 VS and it went fine, with no problems. Be sure to degrease and I blasted it with aluminum oxide first. I can fit shotgun parts in my oven, so they get GunKote, which seems to be a much better finish, IMO. I have refnished both 870's and 1100's with GunKote.
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Old 04-18-2012, 19:17   #6
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I've done an 870. Bolt looked like crap quickly.
I polished it, and that was a better choice, but getting duracoat off it was a PITA. It also wore on the action/slide bars a little. Overall, it has done well.
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Old 04-18-2012, 20:13   #7
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After looking closer, I am just coating the bolt part that shows in the ejection window. It is shiny, and I want it to be black again. Not going to paint where it actually rides or touches anything. I am using tactical black. Anybody know if this will match the wilson +2 extension. The extension tube is not here yet. I guess I can wait a few more days until I get it to see if it will match.
Wilson also has a sale on synthetic police stock and forend, $38.
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Old 04-18-2012, 21:16   #8
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It is illegal to paint an 870 and punishable by loss of gun ownership rights. Well, not really but it should be.
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Old 04-18-2012, 21:31   #9
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I like Cerakote.
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Old 04-19-2012, 05:29   #10
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I handled some duracoated guns.....

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Old 04-19-2012, 07:17   #11
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The idea of "spraying a finish on something" should not be associated with firearms. Loath the idea of "spraying" a finish on a firearm. Maybe it is because I have an 870 that has a "sprayed-on" finish and absolutely hate it. Gathering parts at this time and going to have that finish stripped off and the entire package parkerized. Glocks have their finish, Stainless guns are naked, hard chrome if you need it and otherwise everything is blued or parkerized or hard coat anodized. No more "spray on" finishes for me!
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:42   #12
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If you want it sprayed get a Tomcat!
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Old 04-19-2012, 11:38   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTR View Post
The idea of "spraying a finish on something" should not be associated with firearms. Loath the idea of "spraying" a finish on a firearm. Maybe it is because I have an 870 that has a "sprayed-on" finish and absolutely hate it. Gathering parts at this time and going to have that finish stripped off and the entire package parkerized. Glocks have their finish, Stainless guns are naked, hard chrome if you need it and otherwise everything is blued or parkerized or hard coat anodized. No more "spray on" finishes for me!
I must wholeheartedly agree... I despise duracoated stuff.. Ive handled some at the LGS's and my God they feel like painted toys... I find they look like painted toys as well.
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Old 04-19-2012, 12:11   #14
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The breech bolt is not something to paint, not that any 870 should be painted but that part should never be painted. It will not wear well and will look like **** after a couple range session. The part you are claiming, only shows through the ejection port is the breech bolt.

The leading customizers paint their model because it is so much easier then parkerizing. Not better, just easier. I will not even take a painted weapon in to parkerize unless the client strips it completely. That mess glogs up my blast cabinet and contaminates the media. I then have a two hour job of cleaning the cabinet and blast gun then sifting the media or bite the bullet and throw it out. I hate painted weapons. Bunch of mess.
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Old 04-19-2012, 14:21   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RYT 2BER View Post
I handled some duracoated guns.....

That's why I like the GunKote better, for anything I can fit in the oven. Duracoat tends to look and feel more like spray paint, while GunKote tends to look and feeel more like a parkerized finish.

GunKote also comes in a convenient spray can, so you don't need an airbrush, compressor, etc.

The plus side of the spray finishes is that they cover the metal, so they prevent rust a LOT better than parkerizing or bluing.
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Old 04-19-2012, 20:15   #16
RJHUB
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WOW. I feel like I have done something wrong.
I know it is the breech bolt, I was just saying not the whole thing, just part you see when bolt is fully forward. Newer one is black. This one looks like it was polished(no finish in this area).

I like stock finish, but it is scuffed and has surface rust. Figure it will just keep getting worse.
How hard is it to parkerize? I thought Duracoat was a good alternative and not to hard to put on.
Now it sounds like its the same as using a can of spray paint.

Aippi, what do you suggest? It is an older model exp mag.
Leave it in the shape it is in, or parkerize? I have not done anything yet.
Trying to get it to match my 870 HD without spending too much.
Already has the Remington 18.5 barrel and Wilson +2ext and police butt stock/forend set.

Last edited by RJHUB; 04-19-2012 at 20:31..
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Old 04-19-2012, 20:37   #17
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.....

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Old 04-19-2012, 20:45   #18
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Now JD....

Click the image to open in full size.

Don't tell me you wouldn't get a clean 3-5 second drop on the bad guy just on the WTF? factor with that.

And you know you like the matching knife/light.

Last edited by Aceman; 04-19-2012 at 20:47..
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Old 04-19-2012, 20:45   #19
aippi
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If it is a beater and you want to go on the cheap go to Home Depot or some place and get some flat black BBQ paint. Wire whell the finish off the receiver and barrel and use some Cylco Parts and break cleaner from any auto parts store to degrease and clean the metal. Spay a light base coat and let it dry a day then spay another coat. Don't paint the breech bolt as that will come off. You can stell wool the hell out of the breech bolt and cold blue it. You now have a cheap finish as good as any of that mess you will pay all that money for.

Parkerizing is an art. I am not bragging, well yes I am, as I am one of the best in the country. Here is a picture from my web site of the before and after of an abused 870P. I even show the serial number in the pictures so some clown can't say they are different weapons.
Attachment 224654
Attachment 224655

Not something to DYI. It took a professional blast cabinet to get those pits out. And it take one to prep the metal correctly. Add to that leaning what the right media is and how to effectively use the equipment. Expensive parkerizing tanks, pipe burner and other tanks. Learning to age and cook the park and how to prep the metal. All this and you still are not assured a perfect finish like in the second picture. There is vodoo or something at work or you have to park when the planets are in a certain alignment or some mess like that. Hell, I have done the exact same thing in the exact way and had a tank of pure mess that would coat a fart and no idea why. But about 1,500 weapons later I can still say I am one of the best around so I must have figured out something right.

I don't know why the above pictures are so small. On my web site you can click on them and get almost as big as your screen and really see the finish.
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Last edited by aippi; 06-02-2012 at 20:24..
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Old 04-19-2012, 21:09   #20
RJHUB
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Thanks for the quick reply.
Man, that does look good.
Mine is really not that bad, but I thought while putting new synthetic stocks on I would try to make finish a little nicer and get rid of light rust.
How much does it cost to have one parkerized?
I will take a look on your site.
I already have it apart and I don't think anyone around me does it.
I might just give that bbq method a try.
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:50   #21
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Parkerize that gun.
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Old 04-28-2012, 19:52   #22
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Update on duracoat.
Didn't do it.

Light sand, and steel wool until surface rust and dings gone. Degreased and used Perma blue for 4 or 5 applications. Did the outside of receiver and outside surface of breech bolt. After drying I immediately coated with balistol. Bolt looks new, receiver looks good but not as deep blueing(dark).

Drilled holes in magazine tube for Wilson +2 extension with 1/4" drill bit and deburred and honed with dremel. Also reblued that area.

Replaced butt stock and forend with Remington Police set from Wilson Combat.

Replaced original 28" barrel with parkerized 18".

Reassembled and looks like a twin brother to model 25077 except for magazine/barrel clamp.

Thanks for all the info for all who contributed.
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