[Doughnutman_923]

I recently fitted a Storm Lake Barrel to my 1911 and I also bought a Wilson Combat Barrel Link Kit (5 links included) because the old link was looking a little worn out and crappy.

My question: What size link do I need? The #3 link is the same as the factory link BUT the lugs (feet?) on the new barrel are longer.

Do I need to cut them to the original barrel specs or use a shorter/longer link?

I ask because using a shorter/longer link would be easier than cutting the new barrel down. I know it's not that hard of a job, just good to ask and maybe save a couple minutes.

[Doughnutman_923]

Never mind! I found a method to eyeball lockup. It has to do with noting where the barrel hood sits with no link installed (just the slide lock pin) and then installing a link that puts the barrel hood at the same exact. position.

Sound any good?

[rock185]

Hello doughnutman, I have fit match barrels, and had a couple factory ones welded on the feet, hood, etc so that I could refit them precisely to a particular gun. All worked well. Anyway, without going into a long discussion, the thing to remember is that the link is only meant to Unlock the barrel. The barrel feet actually determine the lock up. In short, what you're doing will work. Check the lower front corner of the barrel feet after you install the link. Sometimes you need to take a little material off the barrel feet at that location to prevent barrel "bump". This is easier to do than explain. Have fun and let us know how it shoots...

[Doughnutman_923]

By "barrel bump" do you mean where the barrel feet slam into the slide stop pin while returning into battery?

Thanks for the heads up!

[Doughnutman_923]

Okay, so I have it now to where the barrel isn't sitting on the link during full-vertical engagement (which I understand will cause accuracy issues) and it doesn't ride the link (Which I understand will cause premature Link/Link Pin wear.).

I put a fine layer of fingernail polish on the lower lugs and tried each link until I found one that took a fine layer off all the way until the pistol was completely out of battery. This turned out to be the #1 Link (shortest). The #2 Link only took the fingernail polish off during full-vertical battery and the barrel rode the link anywhere else. So I guess I got this house of cards burned to the ground.

[knedrgr]

Too short of a barrel link will cause the barrel to not full cycle and hit the VIS area. This will cause great stress on the link, since it's the only thing that's pulling the barrel back. The link can be stretch, even crack and break. It'll also mess with your locking lug's engagement, or lack there of.

Too long, and there goes your solid lock up on the lower feet and slide stop.