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Old 10-02-2012, 18:19   #41
JackMac
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not smart to tumble live ammo. suggest using fine steel wool and lightly wipe the projectile and cartridge. next step is to shoot it and have fun doing so. be safe.
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Old 10-03-2012, 00:08   #42
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Originally Posted by SCmasterblaster View Post
SO TRUE. The propellant would be altered greatly via vibration. There's now way that I would shoot tumbled ammunition.
Thats been proven false in independent testing multiple times.
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Old 10-03-2012, 00:14   #43
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I say again that tumbling the live rounds will very likely break apart the propellant granules and thereby greatly increase the pressure. If you must clean the brass, just use Brasso and a rag on each one.
Nope, you would be wrong.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=498890

These guys tumbled loaded ammo for 48 hours. They then broke down some ammo and took high def pics, no powder degradation at all! They then chronographed, all numbers were within the normal spread.
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:31   #44
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Update

I think it's safe to say that there really is no definitive answer for the "can you tumble ammo" question. It seems way too subjective, based on the many combinations of different techniques and machinery that many people use.
I can personally testify to the fact that I tumbled various brands of ammunition in .223 and 5.56 completely without incident. For those who are interested in what I did, here you go:

This is the exact tumbler I used:

http://www.harborfreight.com/dual-dr...ler-67632.html

This is the exact product I used as my media

http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...ductId=2753590

I didn't measure how much media I used per how many rounds I put in each canister. One of those aforementioned subjective things. I tumbled the rounds for 1.5 hours on average "load." Maximum was 3 hours, and the results were not very much more noticeable than the 1.5 hour loads. The 3 hour load was for the more corroded soft point ammo that had a lot of corrosion at the lead tip.

I wasn't going for bright and shiny, I just wanted to mitigate the existing corrosion, and ensure that the rounds would be free of anything that might keep them from working in a rifle correctly (tolerance, etc.). Mission accomplished.

I'd say that I have, absolutely, no reservations on my apparatus and technique. I would bet that the rounds have no more damage than when I started. I applied the media in order to keep the rounds from hitting any surface in the canister (which is rubber, BTW), or other rounds too harshly. Think of it as a gentle scrubbing. Wow, that sounds a lot like some replies telling me to scrub the rounds with steel wool, etc. How interesting...

Obviously, I'm not taking ANY responsibility for my method/apparatus if anyone tries exactly what I did (this is the internet, after all). I am saying that there was no dings/dents in my ammo, and nothing went boom the entire time. All that was left was ammo that looks better than it did, has very little-almost no corrosion, and looks ready to fire. I'll try to take some more pictures soon.
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:02   #45
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You are making a bold statement about something you don't have a clue on.
You do every time you shoot factory ammo! It is the last step before packaging.
I should have said that I was only making an educated guess. I didn't mean to make you angry.
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:48   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCmasterblaster View Post
I say again that tumbling the live rounds will very likely break apart the propellant granules and thereby greatly increase the pressure. If you must clean the brass, just use Brasso and a rag on each one.
Quote:
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I should have said that I was only making an educated guess. I didn't mean to make you angry.
But you didn't. What you did was make a matter of fact statement. I wouldn't call it an educated guess so much as pulling crap out of...uh..."thin air". That is something we should not be doing.
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Old 10-03-2012, 14:00   #47
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Originally Posted by SCmasterblaster:
I say again that tumbling the live rounds will very likely break apart the propellant granules and thereby greatly increase the pressure. If you must clean the brass, just use Brasso and a rag on each one.

Now I'm no expert, but I thought the idea was to keep chemicals away from any points of a cartidge that the chemicals could get inside (i.e.:primer, where projectile enters shell). I would think that is more dangerous than tumbling.

Many replies to this thread, as well as many replies linking to proven tumbling results elsewhere, are showing that there is absolutely nothing wrong with tumbling ammunition.
I didn't realize it when I started this thread, but this is one of the biggest wive's tale fueled debates on the internet! Sheesh. I would say I need to shoot these rounds to prove my findings, but there are just too many people out there that have done just that (in serious detail) and lived to tell the tale. Apparently, the folks who object to it have never done it themselves, or been involved in someone else's undertaking of it.
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Old 10-03-2012, 21:23   #48
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I would shoot the ammo you have shown without tumbling. Speaking of tumbling, what is the purpose of making the ammo pretty before shooting it ? you realize they will shoot just fine as they are right ? and there will not be any feeding issues either if your rifle is OK, and you will not damage the gun either.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:07   #49
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I would shoot the ammo you have shown without tumbling. Speaking of tumbling, what is the purpose of making the ammo pretty before shooting it ? you realize they will shoot just fine as they are right ? and there will not be any feeding issues either if your rifle is OK, and you will not damage the gun either.
Many of us who reload prefer to have our ammo as high quality as possible, and having it clean and shiney is just part of that.

As an aside, I dont want to put dirty cases into a firearm either.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:58   #50
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I did a final tally of everything, and came out with a nice stock of ammo.

.223 hollow tipped rounds (I cannot ID manu.): 40rds
.223 lead tipped jacketed rounds (I cannot ID manu.): 70rds
.223 NORMA: 70rds

Valcartier "IVI 70" headstamped rounds (doesn't say if .223 or 5.56): 12rds

Lake City (doesn't say if .223 or 5.56): 60rds

5.56 rounds (I cannot ID manu.): 38

The NORMA rounds were in the best shape, and required little time in the tumbler. The lead-tipped jacketed rounds were in the poorest shape. I learned much about the different .223 rounds out there, but there is still much to learn. I have some family members who are interested in shooting some of these rounds. If all goes well, I'll get out to the range this weekend and see how healthy these rounds are after sitting around for decades in various unknown conditions. I'll try to post after that trip.
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:25   #51
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Thanks

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Thats been proven false in independent testing multiple times.
I didn't know that.
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:35   #52
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Try a buffing wheel with "soft Scrub". Clean residue, wipe on some "Pledge" and let dry......... DOC
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:37   #53
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Shoot them.

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Old 10-04-2012, 11:05   #54
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Shoot them.

That's correct. That is the fastest way to solve the supposed problem!
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Old 10-04-2012, 15:06   #55
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I didn't know that.
Many people don't. It doesnt help that there is contradictory statements from manufacturers, etc all over. I think most of that is because of ammo and powder manufacturers playing CYA.
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Old 10-04-2012, 19:24   #56
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Many people don't. It doesnt help that there is contradictory statements from manufacturers, etc all over. I think most of that is because of ammo and powder manufacturers playing CYA.
Definitely this. Seems to be the way of all things these days.
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:26   #57
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Many people don't. It doesnt help that there is contradictory statements from manufacturers, etc all over. I think most of that is because of ammo and powder manufacturers playing CYA.
Thanks. I never thought of the CYA factor.
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