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Old 10-30-2012, 11:48   #26
CaptainXL
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"I HAVE JUST ENOUGH KNOWLEDGE TO BE A DANGER TO MYSELF"

But, I guess this, unfortunately, is how people gain additional knowledge.
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Old 10-30-2012, 12:14   #27
barth
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Originally Posted by 1-2man View Post
I polish my internals at the range. 1,000 or so rounds seem to do the trick.
+1
I don't mind tuning the trigger with spring and connector changes.
But 5000+ rounds and a little oil polishes my Glock right up - LOL.

And my baby shoots sweet...
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Last edited by barth; 10-30-2012 at 12:15..
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Old 10-30-2012, 13:04   #28
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Well, as it happens I just did the twenty five cent trigger job last night and I did use a Dremel tool with black polishing compound. Now, I had noticed quite a while ago that the angle on the back of the trigger bar did not match the angle of the front of the stud on the striker. This was very obvious, because after a few hundred rounds, the trigger bar had actually dug into the striker at the top of its engagement. This indicated that the back of the trigger bar was hard, sharp, and engaging the striker only at its top.

When I did what I did, I took a 1200 grit diamond hone and took enough off the stud on the striker to take out the indent from the trigger bar. I polished the back of the trigger bar only lightly at the very top, since it was only engaging at the top anyway. I did so little that I am positive I couldn't have changed any geometry.

Now, I know I didn't create anything dangerous, because I shot the gun this morning and it was fine. I did manage to improve the trigger.

However, reading this thread I got a bit curious and maybe even a little concerned. So I did a little test. I thoroughly blackened the back of the trigger bar and the front of the striker stud with a Sharpie. Then dry fired the gun several times. Upon taking the slide off and inspecting the both parts, I discovered that there was plenty of engagement, in fact about the full thickness of the trigger bar. However, I also must have rounded the striker stud a bit from side to side, as the area of engagement was fairly narrow in that dimension, and centered.

I have a spare striker assembly. Absolutely virgin stock Glock parts. I put that in and repeated my sharpie test. Again, there is plenty of engagement vertically. And again the area of engagement is fairly narrow side to side, but this time not centered. The trigger bar is only engaging the striker stud on one side.

I don't think there's any cause for concern with my gun with either striker, but I do find it interesting. It does not seem that Glock is manufacturing these parts with any great precision. The trigger bar looks like it's straight out of the stamping mill, including the back where it engages the striker.

Last edited by dhgeyer; 10-30-2012 at 13:11.. Reason: Correct an error
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Old 10-30-2012, 13:12   #29
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dhgeyer, Do your engagement tests with a magazine with some snap caps or homemade dummies in the magazine as this will cause the slide to be lifted a few thousands just as it is when loaded.
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Old 10-30-2012, 13:33   #30
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dhgeyer, Do your engagement tests with a magazine with some snap caps or homemade dummies in the magazine as this will cause the slide to be lifted a few thousands just as it is when loaded.
Well, at first I was inclined to decline, as I hate to waste good bullets. But then I figured, what the heck, a few dummy rounds might be good to have around. They're easy to tell from live stuff - no primers. I'll probably color them somehow. I made 7. I must say it still made me nervous running what looks like live ammo through my gun in the house!

Anyway, it didn't make any difference. I have no way of precisely measuring the engagement of course, but it doesn't look any different to me. Still about the thickness of the trigger bar, or close to it. This doesn't surprise me, as there is almost no vertical play in the slide at the rear. As you say, perhaps a few thousandths, but not enough to see or make any practical difference.

Good suggestion for a test, though!
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Old 10-30-2012, 14:10   #31
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Good, some have more “slack” than others.

In addition to no primer I drill a hole or two through the case of the dummy just like the old military ordinance proving dummies.
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Old 10-30-2012, 19:45   #32
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My thanks to Bentbiker for making me aware of a tool called an inspection slide cover plate. I had never heard of such a thing. I Googled it, saw the pictures, and thought "what a great idea!".

It took me about 15 minutes to make a crude one out of a hinge I never used that was the right thickness. The hole drilled partway through is to give me a way to get it back off the slide.

Please do not click on the following link, as the photo has been removed and you will only get a "404 File Not Found".

General Glocking

It works. Looking into the back of the slide, I see what my Sharpie test showed me: there is plenty of engagement between the trigger bar and the striker stud.

So, thank you Bentbiker for that idea, and for added peace of mind.

Last edited by dhgeyer; 03-06-2013 at 10:02..
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Old 10-31-2012, 13:23   #33
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The whole idea is to make rough surfaces into smooth surfaces. An experienced 'smith can use power tools all he wants as he knows the limit on material to remove. Anyone wanting to improve their trigger should use caution and manually polish surfaces. I'm sure apprentice 'smiths manually polish surfaces as well.
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Old 10-31-2012, 13:30   #34
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Originally Posted by Arc Angel View Post
Next time, work barehanded so you can gauge heat buildup in the piece. Don't, 'touchdown' for more than 5 or 6 seconds at a time; and STAY AWAY FROM THE COMPONENT EDGES.

Better yet... If a guy doesn't know what the heck he's doing, just save up the $140 for a good drop in trigger. A new firing pin is $50 alone.
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Old 10-31-2012, 17:43   #35
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Reinstall the original connector and see if it still does it. I had the same issue at one point and traced it back to the connector.
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Old 10-31-2012, 20:00   #36
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Originally Posted by 1-2man View Post
I polish my internals at the range. 1,000 or so rounds seem to do the trick.
That's all that needs to be done. I have very closely examined the internals, of every new Glock, that I have bought. Not a single one has needed any extra polishing. The parts that move across each other are very small points and plenty slick, right out of the box. I'm sure, that I'm in the minority, but that's been my experience with Glocks. The guns stay all OEM parts and I don't remember ever getting brass in my face, failure to extract and eject properly or jams.
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Old 11-03-2012, 23:19   #37
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Reading this thread reinforces my resolve to do no modifications at all to my G23 (except the butt plug :-) It works just fine as is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinTx View Post
That's all that needs to be done. I have very closely examined the internals, of every new Glock, that I have bought. Not a single one has needed any extra polishing. The parts that move across each other are very small points and plenty slick, right out of the box. I'm sure, that I'm in the minority, but that's been my experience with Glocks. The guns stay all OEM parts and I don't remember ever getting brass in my face, failure to extract and eject properly or jams.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:24   #38
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When you dry fired the gun, continued to hold the trigger down, released for the reset, did you feel it fire again or did it just feel like the trigger was resetting?
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:43   #39
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everything felt fine when dry fired and reset. I was actually pretty proud of how good it felt dry firing. And then it all went south
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Old 03-04-2013, 16:51   #40
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When you dry fired the gun, continued to hold the trigger down, released for the reset, did you feel it fire again or did it just feel like the trigger was resetting?
Seems to me that it should have "double fired" even in a dry-fire attempt.

Why would this NOT be true?
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Old 03-04-2013, 17:34   #41
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Just a guess but maybe something reset when the slide cycled after being fired the first time but did not reset after the first dry fire?

OP Safe guess the issue has been resolved by now? Pistol is shooting well now?
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Old 03-04-2013, 19:48   #42
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Well this thread got me paranoid.

I did the polish job a year or so ago. Never had any issue other than a smoother pull.

I took mine COMPLETELY apart just for the heck of it. Before re-assembly, I took a Sharpie and colored the face of the striker. I put her back and dry-fired a few times.

I removed the slide, got a magnifying glass to check the contact point. Turns out that it is just a bit wider than the trigger bar. I assume that is sufficient as I have had no problems and it seems that more surface contact than that would really cause creep and a lack of feel for the break.

Opinions?
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Last edited by allegro; 03-04-2013 at 19:49..
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Old 03-05-2013, 17:25   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanmac45 View Post
And the dremel tool strikes again..................
yep, How much $$ are the firing pins now days?
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Old 03-05-2013, 17:28   #44
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Reading this thread reinforces my resolve to do no modifications at all to my G23 (except the butt plug :-) It works just fine as is.

butt plug
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Old 03-05-2013, 18:52   #45
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yep, How much $$ are the firing pins now days?
Around $41. Just bought a slightly used Glock and the tip of the firing pin was chipped or flawed from the factory so I replaced it. Better safe than sorry.


I did the $.25 trigger job on all my Glocks. Just used some 1500grit emery paper, some flitz and rag. Just don't round the edges.

Last edited by dkf; 03-05-2013 at 18:54..
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Old 03-06-2013, 00:15   #46
d123gaw
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Bruce the gun does fine now if I could find some dang ammo to feed it.
Like I said at first, I know I screwed up when I did it. I'm a believer in experience and failure being the best teachers.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:07   #47
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I always wondered given the metal stampings used for the trigger parts and how easy the edge can be polished away, I would think the edges would wear down by shooting.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:36   #48
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Why mess with "Perfection".
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