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Old 10-15-2012, 13:37   #1
sig357fan
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mold storage

What are you all using to protect/preserve your steel molds for long term storage?
I used some white lithum grease and had a real difficult time getting it all off the mold, had to scrub it with a nylon bristle brush and acetone to get it clean for casting.

sig357fan

Last edited by sig357fan; 10-15-2012 at 13:37..
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Old 10-15-2012, 13:50   #2
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No, a grease is a disaster as yo uhave found out. Any good rust rpeve oil works fine. I use to use WD40, but it laquers over time, ugly. So Any decent oil thin oil will work fine, then I use spray degreaser to remove it before casting.
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Old 10-15-2012, 17:10   #3
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Yep what Fred said. Then I keep mine in my safe where I have a Golden Rod, it keeps the safe heated and everything dry and rust free.
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Old 10-15-2012, 19:25   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredj338 View Post
No, a grease is a disaster as yo uhave found out. Any good rust rpeve oil works fine. I use to use WD40, but it laquers over time, ugly. So Any decent oil thin oil will work fine, then I use spray degreaser to remove it before casting.
I have used EVOO,extra virgin olive oil for more than 10 years.
It doesn't dry or lacquer up,cleans of easily and if one happens to use it for cooking it's usually on hand. SJ 40
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Old 10-15-2012, 19:31   #5
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Put them in a plastic ziploc bag and drop in a piece of Champhor

Woodworkers used this, for many years, to prevent their steel hand tools from rusting.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camphor

"Solid camphor releases fumes that form a rust-preventative coating, and is therefore stored in tool chests to protect tools against rust.[7]"
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Old 10-15-2012, 19:49   #6
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Put them in a plastic ziploc bag and drop in a piece of Champhor

Woodworkers used this, for many years, to prevent their steel hand tools from rusting.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camphor

"Solid camphor releases fumes that form a rust-preventative coating, and is therefore stored in tool chests to protect tools against rust.[7]"
That sounds pretty cool, thanks for the tip. I have a Woodcraft down the street I'll have to go check it out.

And I love your avatar.
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Old 10-15-2012, 20:07   #7
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Quote:
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That sounds pretty cool, thanks for the tip. I have a Woodcraft down the street I'll have to go check it out.

And I love your avatar.


Thank you. I love him too.
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Old 10-16-2012, 13:20   #8
sig357fan
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O.K., no grease, use a light oil, thanks guys.

Now that Fred mentioned it, I recall using whatever spray lube (WD40, PowerBlaster) I had on hand, figured that the white lithum grease would be good as it lubes well and stays in place, defenently gonna try the olive oil.

So, how about you all share how you clean a mold and get it ready to cast, (C4W, Zombie Steve, think sticky on casting).

Thanks for the info,

Sig357fan

Last edited by sig357fan; 10-16-2012 at 13:21..
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Old 10-16-2012, 13:27   #9
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I'll have to try the Camphor/baggy thing. That would prevent me having to remove the oil before casting.
THX!
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Old 10-16-2012, 14:18   #10
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Originally Posted by sig357fan View Post
O.K., no grease, use a light oil, thanks guys.

Now that Fred mentioned it, I recall using whatever spray lube (WD40, PowerBlaster) I had on hand, figured that the white lithum grease would be good as it lubes well and stays in place, defenently gonna try the olive oil.

So, how about you all share how you clean a mold and get it ready to cast, (C4W, Zombie Steve, think sticky on casting).

Thanks for the info,

Sig357fan
I clean the mould up with hot water and dish soap scrubbing it with a nylon parts cleaning brush.
Followed by a couple of quick blasts of compressed air to blow away any water as water and molten lead Do Not play well together,think molten lead volcano.
Any spray parts cleaner would do just as well. SJ 40
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