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Old 11-10-2012, 16:01   #1
RM686
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G19 Gen 4 trigger pull

I recently bought a G19 4 Gen with a dot connector with a measured pull weight of 7 to 8 lbs. The trigger was terrible.
By a 25 cent trigger job and after market 3.5 connector I have gotten to a 5 lb pull measured from the middle of the trigger with a RCBS trigger gage. I get the same pull weight from 3 different model Sig's I have measured in single action mode.
I went to a number of different dealers who had G19 Gen 4 in stock and those triggers were fantastic. Also a G26. Tried a PPQ and thought it was a 1911, has to be 4 lbs or less.
On a gen 4 has anyone measured there trigger pull stock out of the box. I feel my gun was an exception.
My main concern is this gun is for CCW and is 5 lbs too light. If stock actually measures 5.5 lbs I wont be too concerned.
I am very happy with the gun now but would be interested in what other Gen 4 owners are experiencing out of the box with there pistols. Thinking of carrying my Sig's around with the hammer cocked in single action at 5 lbs is a little scary. It commands a completely different mind set like never even put your finger near the trigger if the gun is loaded. I don't mind making this adjustment since the choice is terrible trigger , sell the gun, or real nice trigger change mind set.
Would appriciate any comments.
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Old 11-10-2012, 16:23   #2
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This may be a dumb question (others will be along to comment on this probably) but does your G19 have the regular trigger spring?

I just discovered my G26 (police trade-in) has a NY1 trigger spring after I tried to put in a 3.5 connector. I'm gonna buy a regular trigger spring for it now, and put the 3.5 in my G19, now that I know why the G26's trigger was so bad.

Not to hi-jack, but does glock ship out glocks with NY1 trigger springs to law enforcement, or is it added after purchase? Do any civilian sale glocks get the NY1 spring?

Last edited by rcbif; 11-10-2012 at 16:26..
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Old 11-10-2012, 16:27   #3
Bruce M
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Maybe I am oversimplifying this but if you fear the trigger pull is too light maybe it would be closer to what you want with the stock connector, shooting it alot, and then the so called twenty-five cent trigger job if necessary.
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Old 11-10-2012, 16:32   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcbif View Post
...

Not to hi-jack, but does glock ship out glocks with NY1 trigger springs to law enforcement, or is it added after purchase? Do any civilian sale glocks get the NY1 spring?
None of my blue label G26s came with the NY1 spring but I am betting Glock would gladly ship them with the NY1 at least to an agency that requested it. My local store would probably be kind enough to order one like that for me and then take one off the shelf, put the NY1 in, write NY1 on the tag with a magic marker, and then call me a day or two later saying my gun was in.
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Last edited by Bruce M; 11-10-2012 at 16:33..
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Old 11-10-2012, 16:34   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcbif View Post
This may be a dumb question (others will be along to comment on this probably) but does your G19 have the regular trigger spring?

I just discovered my G26 (police trade-in) has a NY1 trigger spring after I tried to put in a 3.5 connector. I'm gonna buy a regular trigger spring for it now, and put the 3.5 in my G19, now that I know why the G26's trigger was so bad.

Not to hi-jack, but does glock ship out glocks with NY1 trigger springs to law enforcement, or is it added after purchase? Do any civilian sale glocks get the NY1 spring?
Yes new gun came with stock trigger spring.
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Old 11-10-2012, 16:36   #6
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Maybe I am oversimplifying this but if you fear the trigger pull is too light maybe it would be closer to what you want with the stock connector, shooting it alot, and then the so called twenty-five cent trigger job if necessary.
Did the trigger job using the stock connector. Trigger was still terrable.
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Old 11-10-2012, 17:29   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RM686 View Post
Did the trigger job using the stock connector. Trigger was still terrable.

The - connectors normally reduce the trigger pull of a Glock approximately 8 oz. lower than a . connector and the . connector feels good in most Glocks. Have a Glock Armorer look at your pistol.
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Old 11-10-2012, 17:59   #8
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Yup all my stock glocks had that pull weight right out of the box, they are not the 5.5 as claimed...tested with two different scales.. One a Timney (spelling?) And the other a digital one can't remember name of it ... But it's a name brand... But all my guns now have the Ny1 and minus connector in them...

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Old 11-10-2012, 18:16   #9
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Originally Posted by lyodbraun View Post
Yup all my stock glocks had that pull weight right out of the box, they are not the 5.5 as claimed...tested with two different scales.. One a Timney (spelling?) And the other a digital one can't remember name of it ... But it's a name brand... But all my guns now have the Ny1 and minus connector in them...

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What is you pull weight with this set up. Does the trigger break or is it a longer smooth pull?
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Old 11-10-2012, 18:28   #10
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The - connectors normally reduce the trigger pull of a Glock approximately 8 oz. lower than a . connector and the . connector feels good in most Glocks. Have a Glock Armorer look at your pistol.
Tried the - connector not much better than dot connector.
The shop I bought the gun from was a Glock Armorer who just said the trrigers on the Gen 4s was terrable. He started rambling about $200 in parts just for a triger job which is where I stopped listeing what he had to say. This is how I went on my own quest for parts and got to where I am now. Will be buying my guns on line from now on. My experience in dealing with local shops and gunsmiths has not been good. My reaction is when I hear gunsmith sell the gun. I do not want to deal with those people.
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Old 11-10-2012, 19:00   #11
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Originally Posted by RM686 View Post
What is you pull weight with this set up. Does the trigger break or is it a longer smooth pull?
yes much more smooth and more of a clean break IMO and shorter take up, I took an average of 3 for the pull weight and its, 7.0#s, with the Lyman digital scale, in my Gen4 G23.. I like this set up the best ..and it works for me ..

Last edited by lyodbraun; 11-10-2012 at 19:02..
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Old 11-10-2012, 19:27   #12
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The triggers on both my Gen4 guns (17 and 19) are stock except for some polishing. I have not replaced anything. I haven't measured them, but they feel fine to me. I wouldn't want them any lighter, and they are smooth and consistent.
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Old 11-10-2012, 20:27   #13
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Sand the bump on the trigger bar a little and polish the safety plunger and the bump. That will smooth the trigger out
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Old 11-10-2012, 20:55   #14
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Originally Posted by dhgeyer View Post
The triggers on both my Gen4 guns (17 and 19) are stock except for some polishing. I have not replaced anything. I haven't measured them, but they feel fine to me. I wouldn't want them any lighter, and they are smooth and consistent.
I think the majority of guns fall into the catagory you are in. I think I got the small pertenage that dont work with stock parts.
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Old 11-10-2012, 20:56   #15
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Sand the bump on the trigger bar a little and polish the safety plunger and the bump. That will smooth the trigger out
Did that, standard and - connector no effect. only after going to a aftermrket 3.5 did I see results.
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Old 11-17-2012, 10:44   #16
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Gen 4 trigger issue

I did some work on a friends Gen 4 G22 (.40) recently and thought the trigger spring had broken and got caught in between the connector and trigger bar. I absolutely could not believe how bad the trigger was!

The problem is twofold:

1. The trigger bar in a Gen 4 is at a different cant than the Gen 3 guns due to the Gen 4's SF frame (I'm talking INSIDE the gun, not outside with the backstraps) changing the trigger housing by 5 degrees. There is about a .5 lb pull difference between a Gen 3 and Gen 4.

2. The other issue, and I don't care if people think it's hype, but I've seen the difference first hand, is the little dimple on the side of the vertical extension (part of the trigger bar that depresses the firing pin safety) of the trigger bar. While I have this same dimple on my Gen 3 G30SF, the slide is MUCH WIDER, so the dimple does not rub against the inside of the slide. In the Gen 4 regular sized guns, the slide is too narrow, and this dimple does rub against the inside channel of the slide.

For me, the best, and easiest fix was to swap out the gen 4 trigger bar with the Gen 3 trigger bar of the same gun. This will give you a trigger pull like a Gen 3 version.

Take it a step further and add a "-" connector, and you'll be even happier with your trigger pull!
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Old 11-17-2012, 11:47   #17
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This is the reason I have always bought my guns from a local dealer. I ask to see all of the guns in that model he has in stock and then examine them and try the triggers. My last purchase was a new Gen4 G34 and I tried three G34's. The trigger on the one I bought was VERY good, the other two were just O.K. All I had to do was install Warren Tacticals.

Several decages ago I used to shoot S&W revolvers. Did a lot of buying and selling. Did action jobs on about 30 guns. You would be amazed at the differences in trigger pulls from gun to gun straight out of the box. Every one had a personality. Some were great and required minimal work. Others I would spend days on and still have a mediocre DA trigger. Nothing has really changed today.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:03   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dakota Shooter View Post
I did some work on a friends Gen 4 G22 (.40) recently and thought the trigger spring had broken and got caught in between the connector and trigger bar. I absolutely could not believe how bad the trigger was!

The problem is twofold:

1. The trigger bar in a Gen 4 is at a different cant than the Gen 3 guns due to the Gen 4's SF frame (I'm talking INSIDE the gun, not outside with the backstraps) changing the trigger housing by 5 degrees. There is about a .5 lb pull difference between a Gen 3 and Gen 4.

2. The other issue, and I don't care if people think it's hype, but I've seen the difference first hand, is the little dimple on the side of the vertical extension (part of the trigger bar that depresses the firing pin safety) of the trigger bar. While I have this same dimple on my Gen 3 G30SF, the slide is MUCH WIDER, so the dimple does not rub against the inside of the slide. In the Gen 4 regular sized guns, the slide is too narrow, and this dimple does rub against the inside channel of the slide.

For me, the best, and easiest fix was to swap out the gen 4 trigger bar with the Gen 3 trigger bar of the same gun. This will give you a trigger pull like a Gen 3 version.

Take it a step further and add a "-" connector, and you'll be even happier with your trigger pull!
I think the problem is going to be when you turn your Gen 4 upside down and look with a flashlight at the firing pin bar saftey where the protrusion on the trigger bar rides over it. It rides right at the edge of the trigger bar saftey not down the center. Any futhur over towards the slide it would hit the side of the saftey. I have tried different triggers including an aftermarket and they are all the same. I think this is what the bunp is for to keep it on the saftey. I tried a zev tech rounded tititanium saftey and it did not work well since it is rounded too much and the trigger bar is glancing the side of the saftey since it is narrower than the stock saftey.
Also the trigger bar rides very close to the frame so a bump is needed.
The trigger seems also to vary from gen 4 to gen 4. Mine G19 Gen 4 was horrible 8 lbs. I tried 2 different ones at a different dealer after I bought mine and the trigger were much better.
I wonder what the long term effects on pistol wear would be with your suggestion? How do you even order a gen 3 trigger with a bump? Is there a seperate part nunber for this. How do you get on with the smooth face.
Since your are a Glock armorer I would be very interested in you commenting on my remarks. I am kind of at my wits end and have tried a lot of different Gen parts but also have wasted a lot of money. My best set up so far has been the stock trigger with The zev tech 4 connector. The LW connerctor is also good but a 1/4 lb heaver pull. The Glock - connector was 1/4 lb lighter than the dot connector and was horrible. All parts were given the 25 cent polish job. My pull weight now is 5 lbs with the zev tech measerd with a RCBS trigger guage.
Also what about a drop in like the fulcum trigger. I just sent back a phampton because the trigger screw keep coming lose even with blue loctite. Other wise I like the trigger and this may have been a annolomly. RYG has said they will give me a refund. We shall see.
At this point I really dont want to put anymore money into this gun.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:45   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RM686 View Post
I think the problem is going to be when you turn your Gen 4 upside down and look with a flashlight at the firing pin bar saftey where the protrusion on the trigger bar rides over it. It rides right at the edge of the trigger bar saftey not down the center.
Yes the firing pin safety rotates as it is depressed. This is one reason you want to polish the entire safety and not just the top when you do the polish job, as there is more friction from the FPS going in and out of the slide than there is having the vertical extension of the trigger bar go across it.

The thing is that the Gen 3 triggers do not have the dimple. They were added to the Gen 4's as a precautionary measure. Remember that the trigger bar is secured front and rear. The only way the trigger bar would go so far over that it would miss the FPS is if it was bent/defective.


Quote:
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The trigger seems also to vary from gen 4 to gen 4.
Very true, and yours seems to be on the bad side of the variation.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RM686 View Post
I wonder what the long term effects on pistol wear would be with your suggestion?
I would say none, but don't have a long enough experience with it yet. Again though, the Gen 3 9's and .40's never had the hump, and they are still running. The slide is the same, so the reliability result should be the same as well.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RM686 View Post
How do you even order a gen 3 trigger with a bump?
You don't want the one with the dimple. You want the stock Gen 3 trigger bar WITHOUT the dimple. That will also have a different angle where the trigger bar meets the connector, and reduce the pull.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RM686 View Post
How do you get on with the smooth face.
Just order one for the full sized gun of the same caliber. The smaller guns needed the serrated triggers to gain enough "points" to be imported.

Here's a link to exactly what I'm talking about: TRIGGER BAR


Quote:
Originally Posted by RM686 View Post
Also what about a drop in like the fulcum trigger.
They are nice, but very expensive IMO. You can get a very similar feel with a Ghost Rocket since setting it up correctly will eliminate the overtravel. Pre-travel isn't really an issue once you get used to the way the GLOCK's shoot, and start staging your trigger. In other words, start pulling the trigger back as you are pressing the gun out towards your target. This takes the slack out of the trigger. Then you focus on your front sight and press the trigger to the rear. Remember this phrase: "Slack-Out > Front Sight > Press"


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At this point I really dont want to put anymore money into this gun.
The trigger with trigger bar is only $15. You can probably find one shipped for under $20. That would be far less expensive than a new drop in trigger frome any place.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:53   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyG View Post
This is the reason I have always bought my guns from a local dealer. I ask to see all of the guns in that model he has in stock and then examine them and try the triggers. My last purchase was a new Gen4 G34 and I tried three G34's. The trigger on the one I bought was VERY good, the other two were just O.K. All I had to do was install Warren Tacticals.

Several decages ago I used to shoot S&W revolvers. Did a lot of buying and selling. Did action jobs on about 30 guns. You would be amazed at the differences in trigger pulls from gun to gun straight out of the box. Every one had a personality. Some were great and required minimal work. Others I would spend days on and still have a mediocre DA trigger. Nothing has really changed today.
Very good post
You can imagine how many opinions on various blogs are based on one persons experience with a particular firearm. I came to the same conclusion, as least as far as Glocks are concerned, after having bought mine and then going to different dealers finding other guns of same model had much better triggers than mine. Got thrown off the sig forum because I wrote such a negative review of my Glock and the administrator is a Glock lover. Good foreum self centerd jerk administrator.
I must have had very good luck because of the 25 Sigs and S&W and Ruger revolvers I have had They were all very good. One or 2 had to go back to S&W for adjustments.
But I believe your post is one of the more important posts I have seen in a while. It does give one thought to buying a gun on the internet. I believe you are correct one will save themself a lot of greif by trying a gun before you purchase a firearm. $20 or $30 in the long run is not going to make a differance.
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