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Old 02-22-2013, 20:25   #1
China boy
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Newbie Q: General Cleaning and Lubing

I have 300-500 rounds through my new glock 23 gen 3. Loved every round so far. Its my first gun and I'm wondering what I should be doing so far with cleaning and lubing.

How often/ how many rounds should I be cleaning the gun?
How do I clean the gun? What parts do I clean?

How ofeten/ how many rounds should I be lubing the gun?
What type of lube? Where do I lube?

Thanks for any replies?
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Old 02-22-2013, 20:43   #2
BMiracletx
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Loys of videos on youtube that show you how to clean and where to lube.
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Old 02-22-2013, 21:07   #3
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I clean mine after every shooting event. I really enjoy cleaning weapons, so no biggie for me.

As far as necessity, its a GLOCK and will run nearly forever without cleaning. Use quality ammo, be aware of how the weapon is cycling and enjoy.
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Old 02-22-2013, 22:57   #4
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One can't go wrong following this fellows methods.


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Old 02-23-2013, 06:20   #5
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I found these two videos helpful as well:

I use Ballistol oil to lubricate and for the slide rails, I hold the slide with the muzzle down and put a small drop of oil into the rear of each rail and let gravity carry it to the muzzle end.

Any bore solvent will work fine for the bore, I use Hoppe's #9. For cleaning everything else including plastic I use Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner. Any metal surface that I clean, I then wipe down with oil then wipe dry including the bore for corrosion protection. The gun oil I use is Ballistol, just about anything will work fine, another good one is Breakfree CLP. I also have a cotton rag for general wiping down, as well as a Hoppe's nylon Utility Brush for brushing the breech face and under the extractor claw. I buy Hoppe's Sontara synthetic patches in 500 packs, and I use an old expired soft plastic ID card to wrap patches or a rag around to clean in the slide rails and under the frame rails.
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:37   #6
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Then, if you like to read, there's always this series of explanations:

http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/blog.php?b=630
http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/blog.php?b=629
http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/blog.php?b=628

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Old 02-23-2013, 08:13   #7
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As many disinformative as informative demos on YouTube. Any decent solvent (Hoppes, etc.), agitation/scrubbing with brush/patches/q-tips, 5 or so drops of any gun oil. Rubbing alcohol, spit, butter, etc. do not leave a clean gun. A clean patch has nothing to do with a clean gun. A proper solvent is necessary to remove copper/lead/powder fouling. The stock brush is more than adequate to properly clean the gun (side note- boresnakes are for dusting, they don't clean the bore.. They're great for what they do, just not for cleaning). There is no reason to replace with a bronze or other brush unless you are using chemicals that degrade the stock nylon brush. Old school solvents like Hoppe's #9 work fine, as does Breakfree CLP, but they have their drawbacks. Hoppe's takes forever to remove barrel fouling (a clean barrel is mirror-like, with no grey streaks, no dull areas, completely shiny). CLP is excellent, does the job great, but it's like spraying armor-all over your entire vehicle, then wiping off except for the tires. It requires you to apply lube to your whole gun to clean it, while 5 drops is all the lube a glock needs. That said, CLP is probably the best one-fluid-does-all out there. It's just better suited for "wet" guns like M4's and 1911's than glocks. I use boretech eliminator followed by a few drops of a light gun oil, any gun oil. JB bore cleaner/paste is a quick way to take a heavily fouled barrel and get it back to truly clean condition. The good news is- you don't have to clean a glock properly for it to function well. Most don't shoot enough for a proper cleaning to be really necessary over their ownership period. Detail stripping is simply uncecessary unless the gun is dunked or gunked, save for a once annual inspection for posterity. Good luck.
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:19   #8
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It's not really true that there's, 'no reason' to change from a nylon to a phosphor-bronze cleaning brush.

MANY TIMES I've had to switch from a nylon, or Tynex, cleaning brush to a PB cleaning brush in order to more quickly and easily remove a stubborn lead or guilding metal deposit from a barrel. When all else fails to, 'get the crud out' nothing beats using a phosphor-bronze brush - Nothing!
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:26   #9
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Hickok45

Quote:
Originally Posted by SJ 40 View Post
One can't go wrong following this fellows methods. SJ 40
+1 on Hickok45
IMHO He is has reached near legendary status with Glockers.
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:29   #10
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My main self defence / home defence guns get cleaned & lubed after every time they are fired - even if I only shoot 1 mag through them.

I may have ODC but it makes me feel better -

I also normally keep my other guns clean - even if they are "just" a range gun - but if I know I will be shooting the gun again in a few weeks - I will wait.

Since you have just one gun - keeping it clean should be a priority -

First time I cleaned a pistol it took me a good hour - second time was 40 minutes - now I can clean & lube a Glock in a few minutes - it would seem silly to leave the gun dirty.
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:59   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Lumberg View Post
There is no reason to replace with a bronze or other brush unless you are using chemicals that degrade the stock nylon brush.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc Angel View Post
It's not really true that there's, 'no reason' to change from a nylon to a phosphor-bronze cleaning brush.
When all else fails to, 'get the crud out' nothing beats using a phosphor-bronze brush - Nothing!

I've always run bronze brush through my barrels.
Never had any problem over 25 years.
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:50   #12
Bruce M
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The manual that comes with the gun can be of some assistance also. I believe it reads to the effect that the gun should be cleaned and lubricated (but the copper colored anti sieze left in place) before the first time it is used and after every time it is fired. Also if it is exposed to any severe conditions it should be cleaned and lubricated.
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:58   #13
Ryobi
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Absolutely true regarding the brush. Before modern chemicals, a bronze or phosphor brush was best for many guns. Such is simply not the case with glocks and modern solvents. There's just no need for them in a glock, unless you're talking about one with a full on corroded barrel. While they're not necessarily detrimental, utterly unnecessary in the application the OP posted about.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Lumberg View Post
As many disinformative as informative demos on YouTube. Any decent solvent (Hoppes, etc.), agitation/scrubbing with brush/patches/q-tips, 5 or so drops of any gun oil. Rubbing alcohol, spit, butter, etc. do not leave a clean gun. A clean patch has nothing to do with a clean gun. A proper solvent is necessary to remove copper/lead/powder fouling. The stock brush is more than adequate to properly clean the gun (side note- boresnakes are for dusting, they don't clean the bore.. They're great for what they do, just not for cleaning). There is no reason to replace with a bronze or other brush unless you are using chemicals that degrade the stock nylon brush. Old school solvents like Hoppe's #9 work fine, as does Breakfree CLP, but they have their drawbacks. Hoppe's takes forever to remove barrel fouling (a clean barrel is mirror-like, with no grey streaks, no dull areas, completely shiny). CLP is excellent, does the job great, but it's like spraying armor-all over your entire vehicle, then wiping off except for the tires. It requires you to apply lube to your whole gun to clean it, while 5 drops is all the lube a glock needs. That said, CLP is probably the best one-fluid-does-all out there. It's just better suited for "wet" guns like M4's and 1911's than glocks. I use boretech eliminator followed by a few drops of a light gun oil, any gun oil. JB bore cleaner/paste is a quick way to take a heavily fouled barrel and get it back to truly clean condition. The good news is- you don't have to clean a glock properly for it to function well. Most don't shoot enough for a proper cleaning to be really necessary over their ownership period. Detail stripping is simply uncecessary unless the gun is dunked or gunked, save for a once annual inspection for posterity. Good luck.
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:01   #14
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+1 again on Hickok45. Simple, quick method that works!
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:37   #15
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try to avoid nasty solvents and bronze brushes. your Glock will thank you.

on my G23 which I bought many years ago, nothing has touches it other than cotton patches, q-tips, nylon brush, Mil-Comm TW25B grease, MC2500 oil and MC25 cleaner. that's it. no issues. easy to wipe carbon off after a shoot.

glockmeister sells TW25B, but some other dealers like Top Gun Supply carry the whole line, including the product in the NRA licensed Gun Care packaging. same stuff. mil-comm.com has a full dealer list
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:44   #16
Bill Lumberg
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Solvents are necessary to remove fouling. Skipping solvent does not leave the gun clean. It merely allows you to remove powder residue, leaving the fouling to build up shoot after shoot. But it takes a long time for the resulting buildup to affect function or accuracy, and many owners get by just fine with no more cleaning thatn drcohen describes.
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:54   #17
SJ 40
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If one wants to remove 99.5% of any fouling follow these instructions. SJ 40
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:04   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Lumberg View Post
Solvents are necessary to remove fouling. Skipping solvent does not leave the gun clean. It merely allows you to remove powder residue, leaving the fouling to build up shoot after shoot. But it takes a long time for the resulting buildup to affect function or accuracy, and many owners get by just fine with no more cleaning thatn drcohen describes.
if you are using traditional products, that is true. However, if you are using a very effective performance lubricant, buildup is prevented, if not minimized. Strong solvents should only be used with hard buildup ... but if you don't have that problem, you don't need to touch that stuff. what i use makes cleaning and lubricating easier.
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:05   #19
China boy
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Awesome! Thanks for all the replies guys. Man, my gun is going to be soooo clean. haha I appreciate the info, really. Thanks
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:09   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by China boy View Post
I have 300-500 rounds through my new glock 23 gen 3. Loved every round so far. Its my first gun and I'm wondering what I should be doing so far with cleaning and lubing.

How often/ how many rounds should I be cleaning the gun?
How do I clean the gun? What parts do I clean?

How ofeten/ how many rounds should I be lubing the gun?
What type of lube? Where do I lube?

Thanks for any replies?
Good news is glock is by far easiest gun to field strip, clean/lube, and re assemble.

We can write you novels of how to go about this, but there is already millions of posts and videos on this subject. Search in the forum your exact topic above or hit up YouTube. Videos are the best IMO because some steps are so easy to SEE but not as easy to READ and explain via words on paper.

After you break it down first time you will be amazed at how easy and simple it was. Thank Mr. Glock for that
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