Home Forums Classifieds Blogs Today's Posts Search Social Groups



  
SIGN-UP
Notices

Glock Talk
Welcome To The Glock Talk Forums.

 
  
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-05-2014, 12:47   #1
Taz10
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: WI
Posts: 15
Question on OAL and crimp? About to start for the 1st time.

Hi all,

I am finally for the most part setup and soon to be loading for the first time. I have a few more questions of anyone would like to chime in " greatly appreciated ".

I picked up some more powder so i will be working with:
Power Pistol
Bluedot
800x ( Hand measure each load )

Firearm= G20sf Gen3
Barrels= Stock, KKM match grade and 6"
Brass= Starline
Bullet= Hornady 180gr Hap and Xtp ( starting with Haps until i find a powder and charge i am happy with )
Primer= Winchester WLP
Lee Turret Press w/ Lee dies

I will be starting at "Suggested Starting Loads" and working up from there. It will take awhile to progress as the range is about 45 minutes away from me so i cant really go on a daily basis or run back and forth. Also need to get a chronograph.

Now for the questions:

1) Will 1.254 OAL be good to start with ? or should i try to get as close to 1.260 ? I took some measurements off of some underwood 180 xtp's and they were mostly around 1.254. I used a load from underwood to setup my bullet seating die.

2) What is the best way to setup the Lee FCD for 10mm for anyone that uses it?

Sorry with the newbie questions just want to play it safe. , Thanks

Last edited by Taz10; 10-05-2014 at 12:51..
Taz10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2014, 13:01   #2
WeeWilly
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: PRK
Posts: 1,807
When you are using book load data, the OAL in a given load is the minimum OAL. That is, it is as deep a seating as the person testing the load used. Any deeper and you are likely raising pressures beyond what the person who published the load recorded.

In the real world, a few thousandths here or there is not going to be noticed. In 10mm, where you are using slower powders, OAL is even less sensitive.

You are fine at 1.254".

After you get your feet on the ground, you can use OAL (to some degree) to get your velocities more consistent and where you want them. In addition, you will likely find your G20SF pretty forgiving feed wise with regard to OAL, in some calibers, bullet profiles and/or guns, you will need to adjust OAL to get them to feed reliably.

Again, .005" +/- won't matter at all, even at max loads.
__________________
Audentes fortuna iuvat
WeeWilly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2014, 13:19   #3
Taz10
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: WI
Posts: 15
Thanks WeeWilly!
Taz10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2014, 16:26   #4
Taterhead
Counting Beans
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 3,020
Willy nailed the COL question, but I thought I'd chime in on the question about crimp. The critical thing about crimping straight-wall pistol ammo, and often misunderstood, is that you just want to remove the flare. You don't want to crimp to the point that you are engraving the bullet underneath the case mouth. I am personally a proponent of traditional taper crimp dies, but you should be able to accomplish the same with the FCD.

I would suggest adjusting seating and crimping with brass and bullet only. With a proper crimp, the flare will be removed and ensure feeding, but it isn't overdone where the bullet is being swaged or engraved. I would slowly increase crimp until it removes the bell and "kerplunks" nicely into a case gauge or your gun's chamber. At that point you can pull the bullet to look for swaging/engraving. At most you should see only a slight indentation on the bullet. If it is passing the chamber or case gauge check, and not engraving the bullet then you've set the crimp die properly.

A "heavy" crimp with the FCD will actually cause the bullet to swage down, and that will destroy neck tension. There is a common misconception that you can increase neck tension by crimping.
Taterhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2014, 17:04   #5
WeeWilly
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: PRK
Posts: 1,807
Good catch by Taterhead, the biggest mistake they ever made was calling the taper crimp a crimp. I guess it has a better ring to it than "belling straightening out step".

If you ever read someone telling you how they use a "good firm taper crimp", just quit reading after that...

To adjust the FCD, run a dummy round through your sizing, belling and seating. Then run the ram all the way up. Screw down the knob on the top of the FCD until it contacts the case mouth, then turn it 1/4 more. Take the round out and see if the belling is straight. If you still have a little flair, turn it 1/4 more and cycle the ram. Check the case mouth again, repeat until you have just taken the flair off the mouth.

Pull and check the bullet after you are done to make sure you have not gone too far and pushed the rim of the case mouth into the bullet, leaving a line around the bullet. Again, your goal is a straight case.
__________________
Audentes fortuna iuvat

Last edited by WeeWilly; 10-05-2014 at 17:06..
WeeWilly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2014, 17:55   #6
Taz10
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: WI
Posts: 15
Thanks to both of you for the help. It looks as though I have it set correctly as it is leaving a nice looking straight walled case with good seal around bullet. I also pulled the bullet to check for marks and all looks good.

Thanks again for the fast responses.
Taz10 is offline   Reply With Quote

 
  
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump




All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:51.




Homepage
FAQ
Forums
Calendar
Advertise
Gallery
GT Wiki
GT Blogs
Social Groups
Classifieds


Users Currently Online: 558
115 Members
443 Guests

Most users ever online: 2,672
Aug 11, 2014 at 2:31