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Old 01-02-2007, 12:44   #251
G20man32904
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Quote:
Originally posted by Blinky
I'm obviously not G20 but I can offer an answer for you. Walk at the pace you feel comfortable with, remember you need to dictate what is going on. You are the pack leader. When I walk, I like to switch it up, slow walk to fast walk back to slow to run etc. That is also good for teaching to dog that he needs to pay attention to you and not what is going on. When you transition don't announce it, just go the dog will follow and if he doesn't a quick leash correction will fix that. On a normal walk the dog should be next to you or just slightly behind you never in front of you, again you are the leader, not him. There should be just enough slack on the leash to let the dog walk comfortably next to you. Too much and the dog will try and lead and a quick correction becomes difficult.

The only time I will let a dog out in front of me is if he is pulling me on roller blades. This is different because you are giving the dog a job and that is all he is concentrating on. Off leash time or letting the dog stop and smell the roses should only be used as a reward. A proper walk is a tool for strengthening the Leader/follower relationship and more importantly burning off excess energy. If the dog is running around on his own sniffing what ever he wants all the time A. he is the leader and you have become the follower and B. It will take longer to burn off the energy because the dog isn't concentrating on just walking/running.

When you say his ears are down, that could mean a few things. Where is is tail? Look here to see what I mean. http://www.pawsacrossamerica.com/interpret.html. Either way during the walk he should have his head up and ears up looking straight forward. Keep the collar high on the neck, like you see with show dogs.


Another thing I will add is that you dictate the tone of walk before you step outside. Fist off make sure the dog come to you to put the leash on. But make sure he is calm while doing so, if he runs over and jumps on you that is a sign of dominance and should be corrected right there. Don't let the dog lead you out of the house, again who is the leader and who is the follower? I make my dog sit at the door. I will open it and and start walking. Again, don't announce what you're doing, just go. The dog will get the point that he needs to give you 100% attention.
Nice job Blinky! Your dog can hang out with mine anytime.

The only change I would make is to maybe give the dog the walk home his reward. Or let him be a dog, sniffing and such. When you get back within visual sight of the home, retake command of the situation.
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Old 01-02-2007, 12:50   #252
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Originally posted by Blinky
Again, not G20 but I can help. The heel command is used while walking your dog. Read my other post about the positioning of your dog while you are walking. You want the dog to by or behind the heel of your foot. I personally never really use the heel command while walking since normally just a quick correction will do the job. But, try this, Go into the back yard and have the dog sit next to you. Once the dog is sitting take a few steps forward while saying "heel"(use the same tone of voice you use for al the other commands). IF the dog lags behind give him a quick tug, he will get the point. If the dog tries to rush out in front of you give him a correction with a loud "no" and do a 180 and start walking the other way(don't stop walking!). Start out slowly and with short circles. When you are ready to stop just slow down and come to a stop, again the dog will get the point if he doesn't a quick correction with a "no" will get the job done. If you want him to sit when you stop just start doing that command when you get him to stop next to you. Keep it up and he will become trained to sit every time you stop without the command. Most important is to make it fun! Don't forget the treats and praise! Just remember he has to work for them.

I can go on a vacation and Blinky can fill in for me!!!

Only change was to emphasize the point.

Thanks Dood!
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Old 01-02-2007, 12:53   #253
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Originally posted by supra98
thanks blinky, yah when he see's that leash he goes crazy, i work 12 hr days , so its hard for me to spend time with him, but he likes to go out n sniff everything..when i open the gate from my backyard to the front he darts out for the street to go everywhere...
Hey Supra,
Get him a 30ft leash, for exercise. And make sure YOU go thru the gate first!
Mike
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Old 01-02-2007, 19:04   #254
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ok thank you, one last question, my GSD like to "attack" me when im abouit to feed him he gets very anxious and jumps everywhere, am i not feeding him enough or is he just always hungary??...
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Old 01-02-2007, 23:16   #255
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Originally posted by supra98
ok thank you, one last question, my GSD like to "attack" me when im abouit to feed him he gets very anxious and jumps everywhere, am i not feeding him enough or is he just always hungary??...

---disclaimer---
Not an expert, just sharing what ive read and learned.


I would check with your vet on feeding amount and all that stuff. A lot of that depends of the type of food, weight of dog, age of dog ect. But as far as him getting anxious. i will not put the bowl down until my dog sits. I give her the sit command and until she is calm and submissive she doesnt get the bowl. It wont take him long to catch on. If you feed him while he is going crazy then you are "rewarding" his bad or unwanted behavior .
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Old 01-02-2007, 23:25   #256
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G20,

are you a fan of pinning the dog on his back when he majorly crosses the line? and if so how long do you pin him?

Last edited by CentralMsGunFan; 01-02-2007 at 23:30..
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Old 01-03-2007, 04:27   #257
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Quote:
Originally posted by G20man32904
Nice job Blinky! Your dog can hang out with mine anytime.

The only change I would make is to maybe give the dog the walk home his reward. Or let him be a dog, sniffing and such. When you get back within visual sight of the home, retake command of the situation.
Right on man.
Quote:
Originally posted by G20man32904
I can go on a vacation and Blinky can fill in for me!!!

Only change was to emphasize the point.

Thanks Dood!
No problem man. We all know your the man around here, I'm just tryin' to help out.
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Last edited by Blinky; 01-03-2007 at 05:09..
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Old 01-03-2007, 04:44   #258
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Quote:
Originally posted by supra98
ok thank you, one last question, my GSD like to "attack" me when im abouit to feed him he gets very anxious and jumps everywhere, am i not feeding him enough or is he just always hungary??...
I would check with a vet to make sure you are feeding him enough and if you're not, I would start him on the food that G20 recommends. If you are feeding him enough then it becomes a dominance issue. If you've a leash on him then you need to go with a strong NO followed by a correction and then a sit and stay command. If you don't have a leash on him then a touch correction is needed. Take your slightly cupped hand, palm up, and when you say NO give him a light "jab" to the neck. Like a correction, your not trying to hurt the dog just snap him out of his current state of mind. This all needs to be done in a calm assertive manor, NO AGGRESSION!!!! Some people aren't comfortable with that method that's ok. If you're one bit unsure of that then I strongly suggest that you keep a short leash on him while he's inside so you can easily do corrections.

Again, I differ to G20 for the final answer for you.
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Old 01-03-2007, 05:09   #259
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Quote:
Originally posted by CentralMsGunFan
G20,

are you a fan of pinning the dog on his back when he majorly crosses the line? and if so how long do you pin him?
I'll give you my answer and reasoning/ G20 may think differently, I don't know yet. First off what ever you do it needs to be done in a very calm manor. Assertion with out aggression is the key. Also, you should only do it in a fight/bite situation. If a is going crazy and barking leash corrections and verbal commands should be all you need. With that said the whole point of "pinning" a dog is to emulate what happens in the wild. A dog is not going to take another dog an just sit on top of him or put his whole body weight on him if he wants to keep him down. For dogs, the neck is the key. The proper way to for a human to do this is to take your hand and make a "mouth" where your fingers are the "teeth". Take your hand and around the front and side of the dogs neck and apply pressure. One you do that start to take him to the ground and lay him on his side. You may have to use your other arm to kick his hind legs out from underneath him. If the dog immediately goes to his side and relaxes, relax your hand on his neck and wait if he stays relaxed for, oh, 30 seconds or so then you should be ok to let the dog back up. If the dog is on his side and tries to get up, tighten your grip and "bite" him. As soon as the dog relaxes again you need to relax your grip. I always pin the dog on his side, because you can tell when the dog is relaxing. At first the dog will have his legs out and tense. Sooner or later you'll notice the legs will relax and the dog will lay flat, that's the sign of total submission. The dog needs to stay that way in order for him to be let up. If you pin the dog on his back the legs will naturally be up in the air and it's harder to tell when the dog is relaxing, plus it may make it harder for the dog to breath. Again, I can't stress this enough, this should be used as a last resort and should only be done a calm manor.
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Old 01-03-2007, 11:37   #260
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Quote:
Originally posted by supra98
ok thank you, one last question, my GSD like to "attack" me when im abouit to feed him he gets very anxious and jumps everywhere, am i not feeding him enough or is he just always hungary??...
Absolutely not!

Put the leash on him and make him do a sit-stay for 30seconds with his food bowl down.

CMF got it right.
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Old 01-03-2007, 11:41   #261
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Originally posted by Blinky
I'll give you my answer and reasoning/ G20 may think differently, I don't know yet. First off what ever you do it needs to be done in a very calm manor. Assertion with out aggression is the key. Also, you should only do it in a fight/bite situation. If a is going crazy and barking leash corrections and verbal commands should be all you need. With that said the whole point of "pinning" a dog is to emulate what happens in the wild. A dog is not going to take another dog an just sit on top of him or put his whole body weight on him if he wants to keep him down. For dogs, the neck is the key. The proper way to for a human to do this is to take your hand and make a "mouth" where your fingers are the "teeth". Take your hand and around the front and side of the dogs neck and apply pressure. One you do that start to take him to the ground and lay him on his side. You may have to use your other arm to kick his hind legs out from underneath him. If the dog immediately goes to his side and relaxes, relax your hand on his neck and wait if he stays relaxed for, oh, 30 seconds or so then you should be ok to let the dog back up. If the dog is on his side and tries to get up, tighten your grip and "bite" him. As soon as the dog relaxes again you need to relax your grip. I always pin the dog on his side, because you can tell when the dog is relaxing. At first the dog will have his legs out and tense. Sooner or later you'll notice the legs will relax and the dog will lay flat, that's the sign of total submission. The dog needs to stay that way in order for him to be let up. If you pin the dog on his back the legs will naturally be up in the air and it's harder to tell when the dog is relaxing, plus it may make it harder for the dog to breath. Again, I can't stress this enough, this should be used as a last resort and should only be done a calm manor.
YEP! Well said!
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Old 01-03-2007, 13:58   #262
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G20 ... a few times in this thread you have said that there should be No Roughousing! Why is that?
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Old 01-03-2007, 18:35   #263
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Originally posted by Omphaloskepsis
G20 ... a few times in this thread you have said that there should be No Roughousing! Why is that?
It is not a game in which you (as a human) can win (while speaking dog).

Very rarely will you see the Alpha wolf "play" with another wolf. The Alpha knows all, see's all.
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Old 01-03-2007, 22:22   #264
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Quote:
Originally posted by G20man32904
YEP! Well said!


Nice to know that we are on the same page.
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Old 01-08-2007, 12:52   #265
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ok , anybody who can help, how do i stop my dog from running out the gate and going down the street when i open it. if i call him he'll come back, but i shouldnt have to do that, he should just stay put right when he walks out the gate??...( i kno wi asked this already, but now its getting annoying)...
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Old 01-08-2007, 14:04   #266
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I dont open the gate when my dog is excited...i make sure she is calm, submissive, and sitting before i open. If i walk out and she is up on the gate going crazy. I give her a firm off command. Then the sit command...when she sits...the door is open. Do that consistently for a while...he or she will catch on.
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Old 01-08-2007, 15:29   #267
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tried but he will sit with his tail wagging then he lays downs, gets back up the runs around in circles...he wont stop...
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Old 01-08-2007, 16:56   #268
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Then the door doesnt get open...you might want to practice a a few times a day for a while...giving him a treat when he does it right...and all that jazz...G20 or Blinky can prob give more advice
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Old 01-08-2007, 17:15   #269
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Quote:
Originally posted by supra98
tried but he will sit with his tail wagging then he lays downs, gets back up the runs around in circles...he wont stop...
Central has the right idea. How about using that leash thing?
The gate DOES NOT open until he is calm, cool, and collected.
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Old 01-08-2007, 22:18   #270
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Quote:
Originally posted by CentralMsGunFan
Then the door doesnt get open...you might want to practice a a few times a day for a while...giving him a treat when he does it right...and all that jazz...G20 or Blinky can prob give more advice
That's about it.


Grab the leash before you open the gate. Make sure their is some slack in it if he trys to bolt give him a very stern correction.
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Old 01-12-2007, 16:59   #271
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ok thanks to everyone for helping, gotta remember he was a stray before i brought him in, so i dont knoe how his past affects his behavior problems, NOW if u guys can help me again ill be happier, my boy doesnt like to play with balls, whatsoever, no fetch nothing, i can throw him a ball, catch it in his mouth, then he'll drop it and move on...how do i get him to fetch??...
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Old 01-12-2007, 17:41   #272
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Originally posted by supra98
ok thanks to everyone for helping, gotta remember he was a stray before i brought him in, so i dont knoe how his past affects his behavior problems, NOW if u guys can help me again ill be happier, my boy doesnt like to play with balls, whatsoever, no fetch nothing, i can throw him a ball, catch it in his mouth, then he'll drop it and move on...how do i get him to fetch??...
No problem Sup, thats what we are here for.
Ball "drive" is difficult to teach, some dogs have it, and some don't. Try getting him to chew on a ball that you can hide treats in. Like this one
Link
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Old 01-13-2007, 19:27   #273
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yo G I got one for you. Ball drive on my dog is awesome, She will run and go get it, bring it back, BUT doesnt want to drop it. Is there a methoid to teaching to drop?
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Old 01-13-2007, 21:55   #274
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Originally posted by CentralMsGunFan
yo G I got one for you. Ball drive on my dog is awesome, She will run and go get it, bring it back, BUT doesnt want to drop it. Is there a methoid to teaching to drop?
Easy one,
Play on a 30ft lead and tell her to "out" in a deep guttural tone. When she doesn't do it, give a light leash correction and a NO! Out!!
When she drops it, lots of praise! Repeat often
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Old 01-14-2007, 03:21   #275
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ok how bout weather??, do dogs tolerate that more than us??, 24 degrees outside do i leave my dog outside, or bring him in?
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