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Old 03-02-2005, 19:41   #41
G20man32904
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Quote:
Originally posted by scowan007
sleeps in kennel. Can easily go all night with out peeing. Will pee in kennel about 25% of the time when I leave for 1 to 2 hours (I take him outside before I crate him).

Usually he is tethered to me, or my work area.

Sometimes when I take out the trash, or grab the mail, I will leave him out to see how he behaves (I mean, its been 6 months!).

He barks his "baby bark." the high pitched plaintive bark with the occasional whimper. He doesn't do his "big boy" WOOOOOOOF bark. But its still full blown, lost his little mind, nonstop, gonzo barking. About 2 times in 5 he'll pee right by the front door (that's the only place he does it). He even did this when i visited my dad. I asked dad to watch him while I ran to get something from the truck. i figured as long as someone was with him, he would be ok. Wrong! Its ME he misses, not company in general apparently. I come back to barking and a puddle inside dad's front door and a less than amused dad.
Ok let first start with the peeing in the crate, this has to stop.
Make the crate smaller and remove anything that will soak up urine (bedding) and cut way back on water, give him access to the water every 3-4 hours unless excersing. Make sure he is empty before putting him in. Before you leave and immediately upon returning home ignore him for at least 15 minutes. That means everybody in the house and even when he is barking, or peeing. YOU CANNOT CORRECT him at this point for this. Let it go
Its really hard to say without observing you and the family interacting with him.
I've got a plan for you
Start here and either post or pm me in a week or so.
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Old 03-03-2005, 08:44   #42
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G20man32904

Thanks for your help.
He is healthy, but I do not know if he can hold it for the 8 to 9 hours we are gone for the day. He has started to pee in his crate. Tonight I am going to make the crate a little smaller, although he is growing fast. At 18 weeks, he is 54lbs already. His dad weighs in at 238lbs right now, so he is going to be a big boy. So I will also get him one of those water containers you suggested for his crate. I told my wife about tying a leash to ourselves and keeping him with us and she was a little curious how we are supposed to do that. We have a baby gate in our computer room where we spend most of our time going to school so he is there all the time with us. Should we have him tied to us even when he plays? Whenever we leave the room, he is right by our side, so having him on a leash will not be a problem there. It will actually help him stay to one side of us instead of cutting us off all the time. Thanks again for your help.

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Old 03-03-2005, 13:04   #43
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Quote:
Originally posted by cocor
G20man32904

Thanks for your help.
He is healthy, but I do not know if he can hold it for the 8 to 9 hours we are gone for the day. He has started to pee in his crate. Tonight I am going to make the crate a little smaller, although he is growing fast. At 18 weeks, he is 54lbs already. His dad weighs in at 238lbs right now, so he is going to be a big boy. So I will also get him one of those water containers you suggested for his crate. I told my wife about tying a leash to ourselves and keeping him with us and she was a little curious how we are supposed to do that. We have a baby gate in our computer room where we spend most of our time going to school so he is there all the time with us. Should we have him tied to us even when he plays? Whenever we leave the room, he is right by our side, so having him on a leash will not be a problem there. It will actually help him stay to one side of us instead of cutting us off all the time. Thanks again for your help.

Steve
THe way I leash my pooch to me is with a longer than normal leash (like 8-9) feet. Put a carabiner in the loop of the leash, wrap the leash around your waist and clip the 'biner to the leash
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Old 03-03-2005, 15:11   #44
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Steve, use Scowan's idea (fantastic by the way, thanks scow!)
He should be leashed and tied to you at all times when you are home. Our concern right now is not whether he gets enough play time but getting him housebroken ASAP.
Any chance of being able to come home at lunch for the next 2 weeks? Or maybe a pet walking service, someone you trust to let him pee somewhere around the middle of your day?? It is asking a lot of him because he is a super large breed and therefore develops more slowly. By 20 weeks he is certainly capable of holding it for 10hours during the day....
Also make sure there is NO bedding in the crate to absorb any pee. If you bought the super huge Vari kennel, cut it in half and see how he does.
let me know how its going.
;c
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Old 03-04-2005, 07:16   #45
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Thanks for your help. I will keep you both informed on his/our progress.
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Old 03-07-2005, 15:20   #46
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Hey All,

Using your method, we went all weekend without an accident! Thanks again for the advice. Here are some pics of the pup. (Hopefully they go through)
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Old 03-07-2005, 15:27   #47
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Excellent!!! Another happy customer
Now dont fall into the trap of letting him off the leash for good behavior. As soon as you unclip him and he has to go, he will sneak off and go. Keep him attached for a good 3-4weeks.
Keep up the good work!!;f
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Old 03-16-2005, 20:40   #48
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Question for G20man32904,

I looking to get a male, Great Dane pup. When I get him, he will be about 10 weeks. If I am gone 3 hours during the day, is that too long? I have one class in may so I don't have much to do. I will just be out of the house from 1-3:50. Just curious what your thoughts were. I will have a crate and use my bathroom as a training room. Thanks, Tyler
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Old 03-17-2005, 18:59   #49
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Tyler,
Here is my schedule for getting a dog.
8-9 weeks old: I am home pretty much the entire time, might take a few short trips to the local store and I will take the dog along but leave him in the car.
10-12 weeks old: I work an 8-9 hour day and come home at luch to let him out. I am home if not at work.
12-14 weeks old: Still come at lunch and maybe go out 1 night for a few hours.
16 weeks old: normal schedule
Danes mature a little slower than most so that might need to be adjusted slightly.
Training room? I'm not real sure what that is? If housebreaking is done correctly there is no "room" needed.
Check out this book for a step-by-step guide on how to housebreak your pup.
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Old 03-20-2005, 20:44   #50
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Quote:
Originally posted by G20man32904
Tyler,
Here is my schedule for getting a dog.
8-9 weeks old: I am home pretty much the entire time, might take a few short trips to the local store and I will take the dog along but leave him in the car.
10-12 weeks old: I work an 8-9 hour day and come home at luch to let him out. I am home if not at work.
12-14 weeks old: Still come at lunch and maybe go out 1 night for a few hours.
16 weeks old: normal schedule
Danes mature a little slower than most so that might need to be adjusted slightly.
Training room? I'm not real sure what that is? If housebreaking is done correctly there is no "room" needed.
Check out this book for a step-by-step guide on how to housebreak your pup.
What book are you talking about?? Thanks, Tyler

P.S. So my 8-9 week old dane will be ok if i'm out of the house during the day for 3 hours? Other than that I will be home with him. but I have one class, 4 days a week. Thanks.
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Old 03-20-2005, 21:17   #51
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Tyler,
Notice how "this" is in a different color? That shows you its a link. Click on it and it will take you to Amazon.com and book called,
The Art of Raising a Puppy, by the Monks of New Skete. Its the best housebreaking guide in print IMO.

Yes, your Dane should be fine for three hours.
Mike
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Old 03-23-2005, 21:09   #52
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G20,
I am DennisP's wife and I'm writing with a HUGE problem. Now I'm new to this whole GT thing, but I'm trusting you can help me out since he's out fighting crime at work and I'm at my wits end. We have a 14 month old german shepherd that we got from a local breeder here in Tampa who breeds shepherds for HCSO. Now, when we met with the breeder to get her he mentioned she had a high prey drive... back then we shrugged it off and figured it would be no biggie- we've had a dobbie and we now have a lab- training is nothing new to us, we could handle it, that's part of the breed... WELL, tonight at our advanced dog obedience class at our local Petsmart we were informed that some of the other trainers saw our shepherd, Liberty, at the previous class and they thought she was "aggressive". Now we have scheduled a private class on Friday to meet with the head trainer who has aggressive dog experience. Needless to say I'm a little surprised. Not by the fact that they said something, but more because it is her third class there- why now? And... honestly, being told your dog may be aggressive kinda makes you feel like you've been called by the principal at school for bad behavior. So here's the deal. Liberty has some issues, and we need the help. She barks- and I mean barks at things she isn't familiar with- kids, other people, other dogs. Depending on the situation, she has adapted well to exposure to these unfamiliar things- Here's a perfect example- we take her to a running trail. At first she barked at every person, dog, or living thing... now, she couldn't care less. We have taken her to the dog park- and although she barks like mad outside the fence, once inside she is fine and plays with the other dogs. My husband has brought her to my work and she hasn't barked there. Now we do have some neighborhood kids who she still barks at on a regular basis.. but she used to bark at everyone, and now she doesn't. We don't want her to bark, but how do you get her to stop? When she is out with the lab she doesn't bark as much- almost as though he is her security. So, we take her separately thinking she will be forced to be alone and work through it- doesn't really work. We praise her like crazy when she leaves it and doesn't bark. Some days it will be great, other days, horrible. There's no consistency. It's hard having one dog as a registered therapy dog and the other as a "possible threat". I can't help but think there's more to the issue than just her breeding, especially since the behavior hasn't been there forever-it only started in the last 4 months or so. Now we've been told not to take her to the dog park because she may be unreliable. We were also told not to tell her "No" or "No Bark" like previously told, but instead we were encouraged to try not to respond negatively at all for fear it would pass our anxiety on to her... so we have tried the Dog Whisperer thing of putting a choke collar really high up on her neck and slightly tugging if she attempts to bark. That works some of the time too, yet it isn't practical at all times since the collar slips down. I know this was long, and I apologize, but I sure hope you can help. We don't want our really sweet and loveable dog to be seen and labeled as an "aggressive" dog nor do we want people to be afraid of her (unless for the right reason). Please help!!
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Old 03-23-2005, 22:15   #53
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Always Runnin' away

I got a question for you. We've got a 15 week old Chihuahua who is always running away when we try to pick him up. It's like a game that get's oooold fast. Will working on "come" with the leash as you have advised work with this?

Another question. Our little guy pees in his kennel at night. I get up once in the night to let him out so he's not waiting more than 5 hours at a time. Is that too much for his age? Also, should I remove his bedding as you have suggested for others? Otherwise he does a really good job of using his litter and going outside when we take him out.

Thanks
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Old 03-23-2005, 22:17   #54
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peepee chi

Here is a picture of the little turd.
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Old 03-23-2005, 22:24   #55
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Not a trainer but...

Quote:
Originally posted by 10mm4ME!


Another question. Our little guy pees in his kennel at night. I get up once in the night to let him out so he's not waiting more than 5 hours at a time. Is that too much for his age?

Thanks
From all that I have read, you dog can wait as many hours to pee as it is old.

EXAMPLE
2 month old puppy can go 2 hours
3 month old puppy can go 3 hours...
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Old 03-24-2005, 09:44   #56
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Mrs. Dennis P,
Welcome to GT and here are my suggestions:

I have seen this situation many times and itís really not too big of a deal to get a handle on.
My favorite analogy for this is: You bought a Ferrari to get the groceries home and now its not quite running as well as it should so you take it to the local mechanic who has no idea how to fix it.
Bottom line you have a dog with strong drives and those drives need to be worked, and worked a lot.
My suggestion would be to find a Schutzhund club in Tampa and start going every weekend. The reason behind this is 2 fold, first it will give your girl more confidence and 2 teach her when it is ok to bark and when it is not.
Donít worry about the aggressive dog comments, you own a shepherd that was bred for police working environments. YES your dog can be aggressive, just by the nature of its breeding, but with proper training it could be the best dog you have ever owned.
As far as not telling the dog ďnoĒ, I know a few trainers that use this technique with good success over longer periods of time, however I like faster results and so do my clients. I use ďnoď and a firm, quick, leash correction with the collar up as high as possible. The key here is to be prepared, before moving into an environment where she might bark lift the collar up high and then flood her stimuli to get her to bark. When she barks just say NO, 1 word that is crucial. If you go off on a long speech the lesson is lost. Just say NO, give a firm leash correction, and when you win (she stops barking) start to walk closer to the stimuli with her in the heel position. If she is doing a proper ďheelĒ she canít be barking right? Use your OB commands to distract her and donít just stand still in front of the stimuli trying to correct her. Use the ďheelĒ command and get her thinking about what you want, instead of what she wants. The barking started about a year old because thatís when the dominance starts. She is telling you she should be the alpha female because you are not responding to all of these threats around her.
I would use a good food reward with the kids as long as the kids donít taunt her thru a fence or while she is outside. Kids like to do that kind of thing and the dog will remember that. If thatís the case just use the NO with the leash correction. Also when correcting her for barking, you cannot stop until you win. What that means is she has to be focused 100% on you before you move on. If not she wins.
Just found an email addy for a Tampa Schutzhund club, just send them an email and maybe go watch them practice one morning. You will be shocked at what they can do. ;P
Topdawgsch@aol.com
I hope that covers most of your questions, let me know what you think
and how it goes and if I can answer anymore questions. I love to help LEO families out as a thank you for their service to us.
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Old 03-24-2005, 10:03   #57
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Re: Always Runnin' away

10mm4ME,
Very Cute PUP!!
This one is easy.
Ok, first up, no chasing the little guy, only he can win at this. Keep him on a leash while you are on home and tie it to you, this is for housebreaking, chewing, stealing, barking etc. He should be coming to you not you going to him if you are the alpha. This will take some time for him to get used to you to going to him but if he gets NO attention other than when he comes to you he will soon realize the jig is up and he is not the alpha.

Peeing at night in the cage,
Ok 2 hours before your bedtime no more water for him. Yes remove the bedding asap. Have you tried a small room with his crate open and a litter box in his area? As long as he doesnít get into anything I would go that route for litter box training. BUT either train him for the litter box OR outside, not both at this point. I would use the box for now and when that is 100% then teach him he can also go outside if opportunity permits. Doing both at once is just confusing him. There is no reason for him not to be holding it all night unless the possibility of a Urinary tract infection or some other health problem.
Let me know how it goes and if I can answer anything else.

bigblueyeddevil, while that is a little on the conservative side, it is also talking about daytime and actual holding time. Nighttime is very different because the pup is sleeping most of this time, so 8-10 hours for 12-14 week old shouldn't be a big deal if a water schedule has been followed.
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Old 03-25-2005, 06:17   #58
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G20,
I just wanted to say thanks for the advice, it really was a great comfort to my wife and I. We will try your tips and we will go take a look at the schutzhund group. Also your analagoy was first rate.
Thanks again.
Dennis P.
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Old 03-28-2005, 17:35   #59
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My wife and I have a Mastiff named Odin that's approaching 8 months old. He is a big sweet lap dog thats getting bigger every day. He is very good around people, with other dogs he tends to get excited and try to play, But he can be fairly easily held back and calmed down.

The only problem we have is when he is left alone, be it as short as 5min or as long as a few hours, he will clear off the coffee table and chew whatever was left on it. He started with the tv remote. Come home to find him chewing it up and I firmly told him no and stared him down. A week goes by with no problems. I think this is because we didn't leave anything on the table for him to get at. Then one night we left and came home to find that a glass that was left on the table was broken and scattered about the living room. I think he broke it by dropping it on the tile floor, He only managed to get a small cut on his tounge and we recovered all the peices of the glass so he didn't eat any of it. The next incident was when a coke can was left on the table with some mail. Yep you guessed it, all chewed up. He swallowed a good bit of the coke can but passed it without any problems, still made us nervous. I got to thinking and designed a little "Training tool", That consisted of a paint roller cover with a few stripes of hot chili sauce on it. We left it on a plate on the coffee table and leave. We come home to find the roller on the floor un chewed and Odin sitting on the couch slowly rolling his tounge around in his mouth. Sucess right....Wrong, last week when I stepped out of the house for no more than a few a few min, I returned to find the dvd remote almost chewed in half.

Looking at the great advice you have given others I figured I'de ask for the same. The only solution I can come up with is to not leave anything on the table while we're gone. I don't like this solution because we can forget somthing on the table and he could hurt himself. When we are at home he dosen't touch aything on the coffe table, There have been a few time when he goes for an empty ice cream bowl and I shoo him away and I tell him no. He dosen't chew anything anywhere else in the house. We are going to get him some new toys and have thought it would be a good idea to give him a rawhide bone or other chewable treat to keep him busy while we are gone. You advice would be reatly appreciated, thanks.

Here is a picture of him at 5 months or so. He's almost doubled in size.

Woof Memorial Critter's Corner
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Old 03-29-2005, 17:41   #60
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Soldat,
He is AWESOME, I love a Mastiff until I get slimed lol.

The occasional thief is the biggest challenge you will face but it can be overcome.
First keep everything he destroys from here on out, we will use it against him. Since I am guessing that the remote control is one of his favorites, take a broken one and completely cover one side of it in Bitter lime gel. Walk outside for 5-10minutes and come back in. If he is chewing on it, go ballistic screaming NO and take it out of his mouth and put back on the coffee table. If he chewed something but you didnít catch him, stick it in his mouth, hold his muzzle shut and tell him no until you see him swallow. You will know because his mouth may start to water, and his eyes will start to water as well. Then take it out of his mouth and leave it on the coffee table. Put some old magazines out there as well. Flood the coffee table for a few weeks and every time you return home, if he has chewed something use it the following day for training.
You can also take like a 32oz. fosters beer can and put about 20-30 pennies in it (rinse thoroughly) and tape the top of it closed. Now every time he walks near the table shake the can and tell him NO. Then start taping the can to objects on the table in a very discreet way. As a booby trap so to speak. What we want is for him to be corrected by the objects on the table and not from us UNLESS WE CATCH HIM IN THE ACT.
Try these 2 things first and let me know his reactions, we can go stronger or weaker from here.
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