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Old 01-25-2006, 22:33   #121
G20man32904
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BigJim,
Where did you get I don't like chokers? If used properly they don't choke, and can give a very quick light correction when needed.
I love'em!


Ok, first off you have to define your walks, if they are for the dog, he/she is going to pull you in the direction they want to go sniff, pee etc. Give them their time for doing so first always.
The man that trained me told me "let them be a dog for awhile".

Anyway, this method works for all pullers btw,
Then formally start the heel command with the dog on your left side, not leaning on you or his paw touching your foot in the sitting position, Give the command to "HEEL" without yelling and sounding scary but more like you are teaching a 3yo how to read and immediately push off with your left foot first. (Yes there is a reason for this later). Now when you step off the dog is going to dart ahead of you, what you need to do is immediately and with the same tone say "NO, HEEL" and make a 180 degree turn to your right, and continue walking until he catches up with your left leg and passes your leg, then again repeat the 180 turn to you right. What this should look like is you basically walking in a circle for about 10-15mins and after that the dog will not pass your leg. ;f

Day 2 do the same training except this time on the correction "NO,(pause) Heel", on the NO part give a quick flick of your wrist when the leash is fully extended and this should give the dog a quick light snap of the collar.

You really don't need to be harsh with this, just walk the circle for a few days and the dog will have it.

Btw, this is my $$$$ maker, the LONGEST this has ever taken ME was 25minutes. After, the dog learns to heel, start to carry a super good treat in your right hand for the dog to sniff along as you walk.
Also and this is crucial, YOU MUST PRAISE THE DOG WHEN HE/SHE IS HEELING NEXT TO YOU!!! Not physical praise, just talk to him in a soft soothing voice, telling him good boy, good heel!!!!

Now, for the finale, when you stop tell him to sit, and make him sit if he doesn't do it immediately. Work this for a couple of days and about the third day or so just stop and look at him, if he sits praise the heck out of him (verbal only). Then step off with your right foot and let him be a dog.

Anybody has questions let me know, like I said I have taught this to every dog I have ever come across and shouldnt take more than a day or so of practice.
Let me know how it goes,
Mike


ps:
The key to a working choker collar for me at least is to get links that are absolutely as small as possible for your dogs neck size.
DO NOT GET A GROCERY STORE ONE, it will pop the first time. Go to a pet store that sells decent ones.

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Old 01-26-2006, 13:26   #122
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So Buddy (who you helped months back when he was 11 weeks old) is now a big 80lb golden retreiver. He was fine up until a few weeks to a month ago when he decided he is going to start jumping at you to try to get you to play or whatever.

You walk into the room and he runs up and will keep jumping at you. When you try to stop him he'll just flop over on his back and lay on your feet or he will keep jumping when you push him away/off. I'm not sure what to do to stop this behavior.

I did see your post on pulling/heel which he does so I am going to be starting to try to train on that. I use a easy walk harness ( http://www.premier.com/pages.cfm?id=74 ) which works great for walks as he can't really pull without spinning around. But having the heel work right would be great. I'm guessing these 2 problems can be addressed together in some way or with differing techniques. Any help would be great!
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Old 01-26-2006, 16:20   #123
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Quote:
Originally posted by MikeG22
So Buddy (who you helped months back when he was 11 weeks old) is now a big 80lb golden retreiver. He was fine up until a few weeks to a month ago when he decided he is going to start jumping at you to try to get you to play or whatever.

You walk into the room and he runs up and will keep jumping at you. When you try to stop him he'll just flop over on his back and lay on your feet or he will keep jumping when you push him away/off. I'm not sure what to do to stop this behavior.

I did see your post on pulling/heel which he does so I am going to be starting to try to train on that. I use a easy walk harness ( http://www.premier.com/pages.cfm?id=74 ) which works great for walks as he can't really pull without spinning around. But having the heel work right would be great. I'm guessing these 2 problems can be addressed together in some way or with differing techniques. Any help would be great!
Mike is he a skittish dog? If not I got something for ya. ;f
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Old 01-26-2006, 16:26   #124
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Oh and by the way, I hate that Gentle leader thing. I have seen many trainers use it with great success but I'm not one of them.
Get him a metal choker with small links (small as possible).

A) we can teach him to play dead, with this behavior or

B) we can stop it.

I personally I would teach him to play dead....
Let me know
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Old 01-26-2006, 20:00   #125
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Not skittish at all. Just a big oafy dog who wants to be up where you are to play. It's when you try to then grab him he'll flop down. Just need to stop the jumping, he's doing it when people come over and it's not ok. It's one thing if you know the dog but if it's a strange (to you) dog it's worse. Luckily he's a cute golden so people don't care as much but it just needs to stop.
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Old 01-26-2006, 23:35   #126
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Quote:
Originally posted by MikeG22
Not skittish at all. Just a big oafy dog who wants to be up where you are to play. It's when you try to then grab him he'll flop down. Just need to stop the jumping, he's doing it when people come over and it's not ok. It's one thing if you know the dog but if it's a strange (to you) dog it's worse. Luckily he's a cute golden so people don't care as much but it just needs to stop.
Ok, we can do that. First though, when you say he flops on his back, that is the extreme submissive position, which tells me you have tried to stop this problem before and he didn't understand. Is someone giving him positive reinforcement for jumping up? If they are, it must stop now. If it is someone that you can't control, put him on the leash, for example. Someone comes to the door, before opening the door, put the leash on him, when he tries to jump correct him and tell him "NO"!, Nothing else, just NO, and countinue about your business.
If its just you or the wife or kids, bring your knee up into his chest as he is coming up and tell him NO again then walk away immediately as if you have other important things to attend to.

He will soon learn that jumping only brings negative attention and for a very short span.
Try it for a week or so and let me know how it goes.
If you need more help, I still got an ace hidden.;z
Mike
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Old 02-04-2006, 00:21   #127
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Mike,

My wife and I recently purchased a 6 week old Male Walker Hound, this is my first time crate training a pup but my wife has done it before. I have a couple of questions for you if you don't mind:

We've learned the signals that he gives for "I need to go potty" and we have him on a schedule. But the pup "Rifler" is very playfull with my other 5 yr. old Male Walker "Buckshot". Buckshot hasn't been around alot of other people or dogs, he was a rescue and beaten severly. He's also very protective of Rifler, my wife and my daughter Lexi who is going to be 1 on Monday. Thus far Buckshot and Rifler play well with minimal fighting, but when they play Buck will knock Rifler down and pin him in a submissive position, and he will also place his mouth around Rifler's neck while holding him down, he does not apply any force but when he lets Rifler up he will bite Buckshot's neck which starts the process all over.

So my questions are:

1) Will this end or is Buckshot proclaiming his dominance? We also have been doing the dominance training with both of them: Hold them down till they are still then let them up and lots of praise. Also we leave the crate open and when Rifler gets sick of playing he will go into his crate and lay down.

2) Rifler had a broken toe that his breeder's vet said would heal on it's own, they took xrays and prescribed some medication for pain/discomfort. My wife accidentally stepped on his paw last night and he refused to walk on it for about 10 minutes, but then started running and playing as usual both yesterday and today. Will this be something to look for when he is older? Is arthritis/hip dysplacia a common problem in Walker hounds?

Both of them in true Walker hound fashion are very playfull and loving dogs, easy to train as well. Also they are very intelligent and know how to open and close doors, also they are very lazy and sleep a good 12-14 hours a day similar to a newborn. He's getting his first set of shots tomorrow and getting microchipped.

Thanks,

Jason
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Old 02-05-2006, 15:01   #128
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Jason,

Just some quick answers off the top of my head.

1) yes, this will end but in dog language they are playing, if Rifler keeps coming back for more, it is play. However, if and when Buck has enough, he might draw a little blood from the younger dog. Again no biggie. Try to let them settle it on their own, if you have established yourself as Alpha they should lessen this a bit more as time goes on. Make sure you are treating Buck as the Alpha, (feed first, let outside first, etc).

2)So he gets the Academy Award for best actor at your expense. ;f
Unfortunately, All working breeds are susceptible to arthritis and Hip and shoulder problems. Feed the best food that you can afford and try to minimize jumping as much as possible. But in the end, we know they will be dogs;f

Good Luck and Congrats on your new Pup!
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Old 02-05-2006, 15:27   #129
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I've decided to get my dog from a local shelter or rescue when I get one. I don't think I'd have the time to get into the schutzhund sport (As much as I'd love to. I love watching the dogs work.;f), so I think It'd be best to get a shepherd or mutt from the pound. Any tips on what to look for? I mean, I know a pound hound ain't gonna be comlpletely well adjusted, because there's really no telling what all it's been through, but do you have any tips for anything real important to look for at the shelter? I mean is there any particular behavior that I should let steer me away from a certain pup? I really appreciate you starting this thread.


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Old 02-05-2006, 21:07   #130
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Good Choice Walter!!!!
It makes me so happy when people adopt rather buy dogs!!
I can't really come up with any one thing except the obvious, (if the dog is growling, barking at you and tries to take a bite.;L ).
Just interact with a couple and see if any of them talk to you.
Most shelters have a small area to walk dogs and socialize them, and are happy as can be to let you walk a dog. Take a couple out and see what you like, dislike. Close your mouth and open your ears. Seriously, don't say a word to the dog and see how they react. A lot of dog language is non-verbal, so be an observer.
Good luck finding a new friend and when you do get one, I want a pic!
Mike
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Old 02-05-2006, 21:59   #131
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Well, I don't have a camera that works, so I can't promise a pic. Is there Any other things I might need to know about an adoption like this?


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Old 02-05-2006, 22:04   #132
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No, not really.
Just do like I said, maybe even go volunteer at a local shelter and get to know some of the dogs. Any problems they have, we can fix. No biggie.....
There isn't a behavior problem out there I haven't seen and already fixed many times over.
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Old 02-06-2006, 11:05   #133
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Thanks for the advice, and Rifler is really hoping for extra attention everytime he bonks his foot on something. The vet said everything is healing fine so no worries there.

Thanks again,

Jason
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Old 02-06-2006, 17:33   #134
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Quote:
Originally posted by G20man32904
Good Choice Walter!!!!
It makes me so happy when people adopt rather buy dogs!!
I can't really come up with any one thing except the obvious, (if the dog is growling, barking at you and tries to take a bite.;L ).
Just interact with a couple and see if any of them talk to you.
Most shelters have a small area to walk dogs and socialize them, and are happy as can be to let you walk a dog. Take a couple out and see what you like, dislike. Close your mouth and open your ears. Seriously, don't say a word to the dog and see how they react. A lot of dog language is non-verbal, so be an observer.
Good luck finding a new friend and when you do get one, I want a pic!
Mike
Mike, do you think you could elaborate on this a little more? What kinds of body language do I need to avoid? I need all the advice I can get on this. I'm new to it. What will be required of me by the shelter?


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Old 02-06-2006, 22:07   #135
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I also have another question. I have friends who live around the corner from me, who I also go to church with. They have a Siberian Husky who absolutely loves me. Due to the facts that, one, I grew up with him, and two, I feed him a lot of the times they go out of town. BUT, He HATES black people. Years ago, there were a couple of little black boys (I knew these two kids, and they were always getting into some kind of trouble.) who used to pester him, I guess, who Roy once caught throwing rocks at him. Another old friend of mine in CO had a dog who didn't like tall people, men, or people wearing hats, ESPECIALLY cowboy hats. Nikki was beaten by a tall man with a cowboy hat when she was a puppy. My question is, if I end up with a dog from the pound who happens to have this type problem, is it fixable? And How? I assume it will take a good amount of time to fix, Am I right?


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Old 02-06-2006, 22:44   #136
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Quote:
Originally posted by Walter45Auto
Mike, do you think you could elaborate on this a little more? What kinds of body language do I need to avoid? I need all the advice I can get on this. I'm new to it. What will be required of me by the shelter?;g ;8 ;I

Walter, just go to your local shelter and tell them your situation and that you would like to get to know a couple of dogs in the hopes of adopting one. They will tell you their requirements as each shelter and rescue are different. Some may want to come see where the dog will be staying. There are some many varibles here I couldnt possibly cover all of them. ;g

Just be yourself, try different posture and vocal tones and see how the dogs react.
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Old 02-06-2006, 22:51   #137
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Quote:
Originally posted by Walter45Auto
My question is, if I end up with a dog from the pound who happens to have this type problem, is it fixable? And How? I assume it will take a good amount of time to fix, Am I right?

Any problem can be overcome. Any problem. It is always the owner that needs fixing, not the dog. Dogs live by rules such as always and never. Example, if owner say to the dog sit and the dog sits without hesitation, the dog earns a treat. So the dog knows the sound of the word sit and equates that to food. You will get the same effect each time you say it, as long as nothing changes.

I could go on for days here so I'm trying to keep this short.
The problems you mention above are easy to fix and would take a trainer less than a week or 2 depending on how long the behavior has been engrained in the dogs head. They are problems with socialization and not with the dog but the owners.
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Old 03-04-2006, 12:49   #138
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Mike,


I've been told that an altered dog loses the prey drive, and therefore loses the drive for the bite work in schutzhubnd. is that true?


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Old 03-04-2006, 14:55   #139
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Walter,
Yes I would have to agree with that statement.
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Old 03-16-2006, 21:26   #140
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Well, I'm going to start working Schutzhund training with Boscoe on Saturday. Do you have any starting advice for a complete newbie?


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