Originally posted by G21forME
I'm going to need a parts breakdown on that beast, that is one sweet 21!
OK, I'll do my best to remember everything I've done to this pistol in the past 4 years. Now, let's see:
The grip is large, but not too large, so I went to a bicycle shop and purchased a 2' piece of skateboard tape. Then, I took some notebook paper and traced out my own grip overlays. Next, I cut these patterns out with an X-Acto razor knife. My personal experience has been that the areas under your trigger finger and thumb are the most important places to cover.
I tried several different brands of commercial grip covers; but, none stood up to the, ‘test of time’. This skateboard tape is, easily, capable of staying put for as long as two years. My original 2’ piece of (standard width) skateboard tape cost me just over 5 bucks and will, probably, last the decade! So far I’ve made one change and found that you can use the old tape pattern in order to trace out the next new one.
(Be sure to lay the old piece down on a sheet of paper to get rid of the sticky glue. Remember to, ‘reverse’ the pattern, too, before - you start cutting. Otherwise, your new cutouts will have the sticky side facing the wrong way!)
The butt has a Jentra grip plug installed; and I do think it keeps the action cleaner. I’ve been able to give the frame a good shot of solvent, shake it all around and, then, invert the frame and pour it out in order to quickly wash the action. I like the profile of the Jentra plug, too; it makes for a nicer looking weapon.
The next change was to throw out the factory plastic guide rod. On WalterGA’s advice I bought a Wolff, non-captured, all-steel guide rod. (Complete with 17# Wolff recoil spring and a 5.5# firing pin spring.) This worked so well, that I decided to get rid of the too soft and spongy factory magazine springs. I went with +5% Wolff magazine springs: They’re thinner, harder, and a lot more, ‘springy’. On the 10 round magazines I, also, found that the thinner diameter Wolff magazine springs allowed me to stuff in that (formerly) difficult 10th round without a problem.
The final spring changes I made were to the firing pin and trigger. First, I took out the factory 5.5# FP spring and installed the Wolff, ‘extra power’ 6# FP spring. Then I removed the factory 5# trigger return spring and installed a heavier 6# Wolff trigger spring. Of course these spring changes required me to have to polish the action in order to bring the trigger pull weight down from a resulting high of 5.6#’s.
This raised the issue of which connector to use? Let me save you a lot of experimenting: The Glock factory 3.5# connector is excellent; it actually measures in at between 4.5# and 4.8#’s, though. The other connectors I tried were, all, acceptable - but not as smooth and, ‘pressure free’ as the factory connector.
Then, I got lucky! The first Lone Wolf 3.5# connector I installed was smooth, but, ‘heavy’. (You could feel a slight, ‘pressure’ when the trigger was pulled.) I complained to, ‘JR’ at Lone Wolf; and he sent me their brand new LWD, ‘skeletonized’ 3.5# connector. After installing it, all I can say is, ‘Wow!’ What a beautiful, super smooth, connector this new LWD turned out to be! It, also, has the added benefit of a slightly different angle that significantly minimizes the usual, ‘front-end trigger slop’ that all other 3.5# connectors are famous for.
Lone Wolf came across with another innovation that has worked out very well for me; but, it did take some extra effort and tinkering in order to get it to work properly: I purchased their, ‘Glock Ultimate Trigger Stop’. When I, first, installed the, ‘GUTS’ unit it wouldn’t hold it’s adjustment for more than, about, 5 or 6 hundred rounds. I liked it; so I took it out, very carefully reset it, test-fired the pistol, and when I was satisfied with the adjustment, I used, ‘PC-7’ epoxy to fix the setscrew, firmly, in place. I’ve, now, got a Glock Model G-21 with PERMANENT zero (trigger) overtravel and minimal front-end, 'mush'.
It’s not exactly a, 'match-grade' trigger; but, trust me, it’s very nice!
Once I had the right action parts in hand, I got out my Dremel tool and Flitz polish. I used an assortment of different shaped felt pads and ran the tool at, about, 5,000 rpm. You’ve got to go nice and slow and apply very little pressure. (Just let the compound do the work for you; and be sure to hold the parts in your bare hands in order to check for overheating!) It took me, something more than, 3 hours to polish up the ENTIRE action: lock block, FP, connector, trigger bar, FP safety, extractor, and depressor guide rod. I brought up ALL surfaces to a bright mirror shine.
You need to pay particular attention to the contact areas around the: (1) striker and cruciform, (2) trigger bar, ‘safety plunger cam’ and FP safety, and (3) friction points between the sides of the trigger bar and connector. (4) ALL of the FP safety, also, needs to be carefully polished, too.
The final result of these changes produced one of the smoothest 4.9#-5.2# trigger pulls I (or anyone else who’s shot my Glock) have ever felt! The pistol will fire ANY ammunition, too – no matter how hard the primer.
In order to give a visual indicator to anyone who handles my pistol that it’s, ‘different’ I used one of LWD’s bright red aluminum slide covers on the rear of the slide. (It’s funny, other shooters always ask me, ‘What’s that red cover all about?’ I smile and reply, ‘See, it’s already working!’
Now we get into a highly subjective area: My personal philosophy of combat shooting involves never firing only one shot, as well as never firing slowly. All of my own pistol practice is double and triple tap – just as fast as I can pull the trigger. Consequently I’m a firm believer in narrow-slit, MUZZLE porting. (Ain’t got no use, at all, for slide porting.) I ordered an oversized 5 1/8”, muzzle ported, match barrel from Bar-Sto Precision; and, then, I used a set of diamond knife sharpeners to fit the barrel to my pistol.
(It’s slow, careful work that you need to do in good light. Most of the fitting is around the vertical sides and across the top of the hood. It’s not, really, all that hard to do. You can use a crayon or, ‘magic marker’ in order to highlight the areas you’re working on. Just take slow easy strokes with a fine, flat surfaced, diamond file. Stop often to fit the parts, together, and check how you’re doing, too.)
For a backup magazine I purchased an extension kit from Arredondo. (Again, on the original advice of WalterGA.) The Arredondo extension kit can be ordered with an oversized Wolff magazine spring; and it works flawlessly – without any risk of ever suddenly, ‘speed-dumping’ on ya. It allows my G-21 to carry 18 rounds! Yes, it’s also too large to carry around all the time installed in the pistol; but, it does make an excellent extra SINGLE magazine to carry on the opposite side of your gun belt.
At the range I always use a Blade-Tech, Kydex holster. It’s very fast, easy to pull from, and cleans up a lot easier than leather. However, for general street use I decided to go, ‘for my lungs’ and purchased a Wm. Tucker, ‘HF-1’, (w/Silver Concho) leather holster and gun belt.
Well, I think that’s about it! Oh, yeah, the sights are Meprolight night sights. I would have gone with the Heinie, ‘Slant Pro, Straight 8’; but, I’m getting on in years; and the larger Meprolight sights are better suited to my present vision. You can’t really do precision pistol shooting with the Mepro's; but, my own combat pistol work ain’t about punching out the center of the target, anyway. I want everything fired quickly and inside 6” at 10 to 15 yards. The Meprolights have proven to be just fine for this sort of shooting.
PS: It'll do this for me. (Maybe better for you!)
At 7 1/2 yards, rapid:
At 16 yards, rapid: