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Old 11-17-2014, 18:45   #1
ram1000
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Questions about tuning

I have a Kimber Eclipse 10mm that tosses the shell out to about 25-30 feet with normal, not heavy loads. I understand that this means the return spring needs to be stronger so I replaced it with a Wolf 22# spring but haven't tried it yet. What I'm wondering is whether I need a frame buffer with this set up or is it a waste of time to use one? I think the Wilson 10mm pistol comes with one but not sure? Will the heavier return spring increase wear against the frame?
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Old 11-18-2014, 10:17   #2
MajorD
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Heavier spring will decrease not increase wear. Most 1911 experts say stay away from buffers as they eventually crack tying up the gun. 10mm's chuck brass just the way it is. If your gun runs with the heavier spring go for it
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Old 11-18-2014, 10:37   #3
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I once bought a used 1911 and gave it directly to a gunsmith. Got a phone call a few days later berating me for having a buffer in "my" 1911. I tried to explain that I never opened the gun, had just got it, would never do such a thing, etc. But, he was on a roll and it took fifteen minutes to calm him down.

Don't want to go through that again, so would never even *think* of putting a buffer in a John Browning pistol.

Don't ever piss off your gunsmith.
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Old 11-18-2014, 16:43   #4
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As long as it is (was) in the same spot and all is working well, who cares?

What's the point of dropping cases in a bucket 2.457m from you?

Your perceived recoil has just gone up from the spring change, and it will be harder to rack the slide. Plastic, and steel frames do not need recoil buffers. Alloy frames,...maybe if you are reloading ammo (if you are buying and using factory box ammo, you are unlikely rich enough to buy enough ammo to damage the frame).

I take that back-- no buffers-- by the time you have spent enough money on ammo to wear out the frame, it is time to treat yourself to a new gun. You are unlikely to get there.

Last edited by cciman; 11-18-2014 at 16:52..
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Old 11-18-2014, 16:45   #5
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Did you pay him money for that phone experience, or did he pay you?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Three-Five-Seven View Post
I once bought a used 1911 and gave it directly to a gunsmith. Got a phone call a few days later berating me for having a buffer in "my" 1911. I tried to explain that I never opened the gun, had just got it, would never do such a thing, etc. But, he was on a roll and it took fifteen minutes to calm him down.

Don't want to go through that again, so would never even *think* of putting a buffer in a John Browning pistol.

Don't ever piss off your gunsmith.
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Old 11-18-2014, 16:51   #6
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There were even these plastic bumpers made for FALs and AKs. Seriously?
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Old 11-18-2014, 17:44   #7
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I would go up in spring weight by 2 pounds at a time to find the right one. Many places sell calibration packs of recoil springs.
Lighter spring and standard to heavier loads will be the thing to watch out for.
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Old 11-18-2014, 18:47   #8
ram1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cciman View Post
As long as it is (was) in the same spot and all is working well, who cares?



Your perceived recoil has just gone up from the spring change, and it will be harder to rack the slide. Plastic, and steel frames do not need recoil buffers. Alloy frames,...maybe if you are reloading ammo (if you are buying and using factory box ammo, you are unlikely rich enough to buy enough ammo to damage the frame).
This makes a lot of sense...thanks
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Old 11-18-2014, 19:05   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MajorD View Post
Heavier spring will decrease not increase wear. Most 1911 experts say stay away from buffers as they eventually crack tying up the gun. 10mm's chuck brass just the way it is. If your gun runs with the heavier spring go for it

?????? May reduce impact to the rear but slams forward to increase wear on slidestop pin and lower barrel lugs.
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Old 11-18-2014, 22:23   #10
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A heavier recoil and hammer spring will help slow the slide down some and keep brass a little closer when shooting the hot stuff.

Truth be told, 650-700 ft/lbs of energy is going to be hard on any semi handgun. The hammer spring is free "slow down" power as it only leaves th recoil energy in your hand. The recoil spring stores the energy and pays it back slamming the gun back into battery.

If you shoot a steady diet of the really ho stuff it will loosen things up while you are still counting rounds in the K's, not the 10's of K's

Frankly, 1100fps is plenty for a quality 180 gr JHP in a SD role and for a 200gr WFNGC in a hunting role. More is pretty much surplus.
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Old 11-29-2014, 16:23   #11
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Just came back from the range testing out the 10mm Kimber with a Wolf 22# return spring and the cartridges landed just 4-6 feet from me to the right, so I guess the pundits commenting about spring rates were right on this account. No more cartridges out to 30 feet. THings felt a little less harsh as well.

Still waiting on my new Tripp magazines hoping they will solve another problem on the new Kimber- that of the constant FTF's with HP bullets. Tripp emailed me to say they ran out unexpectedly, so they may not ship till next week.
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Old 12-02-2014, 19:54   #12
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I don't have any buffers in my 1911s but from what I understand some pretty smart 1911 folks do so I guess to each is own.
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Old 12-03-2014, 15:13   #13
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I used them in the two that I shot, a lot. They are cheap and easy to change. If they are dry rotting in your gun, change them more often. If you're using your gun to fight with, I'd stay away from them in the event one does come apart on you and clogs something up.

For the range, as long as your slide cycles good enough to spit the casing out like you want and it feeds well and goes into battery, go for it, IMO, especially with that round. It definitely isn't going to hurt it any worse and may let you get some more rounds out of your frame. The things do break on occasion.
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Old 12-03-2014, 16:02   #14
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Springfield ships the TGO1 with buffers installed. I've put plenty of rounds through mine without any issues.
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Old 12-03-2014, 17:50   #15
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You can also fit a EGW firing pin stop that changes how the hammer is cammed. The stop is blank and you shape it with a small radius. In your case, anything that slows that slide down is good.

http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1396557
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Old 12-07-2014, 19:41   #16
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Well the Tripp magazines did nothing to resolve my FTF problems. So I guess I'll have to contact Kimber and send the gun to them in hopes they will do whatever it takes to make this thing fir a complete magazine of HP's without half of them FTF!
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Old 12-08-2014, 15:08   #17
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Well that didn't go well! I spoke with Kimber and the guy pretty much assured me there is nothing that can be done with my FTF using HP bullets although I insisted that he let me send it back. Obviously I purchased from the wrong manufacturer. I mentioned that I don't see other threads about 10mm problems- his answer was that the 1911 isn't well suited to the 10, I then told him I meant the 1911's from other manufacturers- no response. I am also getting brass deposits in the slide just behind and above the ejection port. He again said that the 10mm wasn't a good caliber in a 1911- not quoting him. What does one do with a gun that is 50% unreliable? Even the FMJ bullets FTF at a rate of about 1 in 50.
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Old 12-08-2014, 15:32   #18
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How does the ramp look? Could it stand a bit of delicate polishing maybe with something like a typing eraser back and forth the direction the bullet should feed? What about the extractor? Is it not springy enough or lacking in room for the rim to slip behind it against the breach? Is the firing pin staying away from the cartridge while the gun is cycling? Is the recoil spring heavy enough? What about lube where the slide slides?

Don't know that any of these will matter, but some seemed to help when I was fighting a Kimber.


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Old 12-08-2014, 22:44   #19
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I bought some polish and did the ramp a little bit which helped a lot on FMJ bullets but seemingly no help for the HP's. Don't have any idea about the other thing you were referring to. Lube wise it is getting plenty and I suspect the other thing isn't pertinant since it feeds FMJ bullets fairly regular.
Thanks for suggestions though...

Last edited by ram1000; 12-08-2014 at 22:46..
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Old 12-09-2014, 14:00   #20
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If Kimber doesn't want to fix it and you can spend the money send it off to Wilson Combator someone else who understands how the 1911 in 10MM works. I wonder if a Wilson flat recoil spring that would allow longer dwell time when the slide comes all the way back might help.
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