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Old 01-04-2015, 23:10   #1
njl
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S&B SP primers

I bought some of these recently, and figured I should try some out. I was worried they might be oversize/hard to seat. It's just the opposite. Picture the difference between sizing 9mm brass and sizing lubed 9mm brass. The difference between seating a CCI or Fiocchi primer and an S&B SPP is even more. There was barely any feedback at all from the press when seating these. If they all reliably go bang, this may be my new favorite primer. Super easy to seat and cheap.
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Old 01-05-2015, 00:00   #2
ilgunguygt
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I loaded a couple thousand 40 S&W for my dad's stash with them. I found them very easy to seat and very reliables hey are also a very pretty color.


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Old 01-05-2015, 11:00   #3
attrapereves
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I've had a few light strikes with the large pistol primers (with my 45 Glocks). Never with the small pistol primers.
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Old 01-05-2015, 11:20   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by attrapereves View Post
I've had a few light strikes with the large pistol primers (with my 45 Glocks). Never with the small pistol primers.
A fully dented primer that fails to fire is a primer issue. As long as the indentation is in the middle of the primer...

A light primer strike is usually due to the primer not being fully seated - a reloading issue, not an issue with the primer. It can also be due to a light strike caused by gunk in the channel liner or a wimpy striker spring. The true light primer strike will often fully seat the primer even though it doesn't detonate.

When this happens, the Sig really shines! Just pull the trigger again... I actually had one of these last week with a Tula primer in .45 ACP. The gun went click (not 'pop' as in 'squib') so I just pulled the trigger again and it fired. Very cool! No tap-rack-bang required!

I'm slowly coming around to Sigs. We have 7 of them so I guess I better get up to speed!

Richard
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Old 01-05-2015, 13:34   #5
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Originally Posted by F106 Fan View Post
A fully dented primer that fails to fire is a primer issue. As long as the indentation is in the middle of the primer...

A light primer strike is usually due to the primer not being fully seated - a reloading issue, not an issue with the primer. It can also be due to a light strike caused by gunk in the channel liner or a wimpy striker spring. The true light primer strike will often fully seat the primer even though it doesn't detonate.

When this happens, the Sig really shines! Just pull the trigger again... I actually had one of these last week with a Tula primer in .45 ACP. The gun went click (not 'pop' as in 'squib') so I just pulled the trigger again and it fired. Very cool! No tap-rack-bang required!

I'm slowly coming around to Sigs. We have 7 of them so I guess I better get up to speed!

Richard
I am old school I never left pistols with hammers and safeties.

On the Glocks I decide to keep they will all get safeties.

I keep a Rug P 95 mk 2 by my bed in town and one with more power at the ranch.
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Old 01-05-2015, 14:01   #6
fredj338
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Never tried the SP, have run the LP & SR fine in both my 550 & 650 priming systems.
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Old 01-05-2015, 15:00   #7
attrapereves
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F106 Fan View Post
A fully dented primer that fails to fire is a primer issue. As long as the indentation is in the middle of the primer...

A light primer strike is usually due to the primer not being fully seated - a reloading issue, not an issue with the primer. It can also be due to a light strike caused by gunk in the channel liner or a wimpy striker spring. The true light primer strike will often fully seat the primer even though it doesn't detonate.

When this happens, the Sig really shines! Just pull the trigger again... I actually had one of these last week with a Tula primer in .45 ACP. The gun went click (not 'pop' as in 'squib') so I just pulled the trigger again and it fired. Very cool! No tap-rack-bang required!

I'm slowly coming around to Sigs. We have 7 of them so I guess I better get up to speed!

Richard
When this would happen, there would be a primer mark, but it wasn't large/deep enough to make the gun go boom. After pulling the slide to the rear to reset the action, the round went bang. I've also had the issue with my M&P, so I can't blame the guns.

Never had a problem with hammer fired guns. I guess they just have more oomph on the primer than striker fired guns.
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Old 01-05-2015, 15:06   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by attrapereves View Post
When this would happen, there would be a primer mark, but it wasn't large/deep enough to make the gun go boom. After pulling the slide to the rear to reset the action, the round went bang. I've also had the issue with my M&P, so I can't blame the guns.

Never had a problem with hammer fired guns. I guess they just have more oomph on the primer than striker fired guns.
This is exactly the case where a primer wasn't fully seated. There's a mark but not nearly deep enough. That's because the energy of the firing pin is wasted reseating the primer.

I get some of these from time to time, not often, but every once in awhile despite paying careful attention to the primer seating process on the 650.

Not such a problem with the 1050. The primer will either seat or detonate but you can't tell which because seating occurs on the downstroke and is masked by the force required to resize. It's really important to catch the SP brass at the swaging station.

Richard
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Old 01-05-2015, 15:25   #9
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I've had very good luck with them in 9mm, not so much in 38 spl.

In 9's I've loaded somewhere north of 8,000 with S&B's and can't recall one ever not going off. All of these were in Glocks.

In 38's -- both in a revolver and a lever action -- I had about 5% not go off on the first hit and have switched to CCI in that caliber. FYI - same press set-up with CCI's and they all have gone off fine in the 38's.

Last edited by techiej; 01-05-2015 at 15:26..
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Old 01-05-2015, 15:36   #10
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No issues with either LP or SP in my semi-autos. Have had 1 SP fail to ignite in my revolver, however.
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Old 01-05-2015, 16:51   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by attrapereves View Post
When this would happen, there would be a primer mark, but it wasn't large/deep enough to make the gun go boom. After pulling the slide to the rear to reset the action, the round went bang. I've also had the issue with my M&P, so I can't blame the guns.

Never had a problem with hammer fired guns. I guess they just have more oomph on the primer than striker fired guns.
Classic high primer.
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Old 01-05-2015, 20:10   #12
njl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techiej View Post
I've had very good luck with them in 9mm, not so much in 38 spl.

In 9's I've loaded somewhere north of 8,000 with S&B's and can't recall one ever not going off. All of these were in Glocks.

In 38's -- both in a revolver and a lever action -- I had about 5% not go off on the first hit and have switched to CCI in that caliber. FYI - same press set-up with CCI's and they all have gone off fine in the 38's.
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No issues with either LP or SP in my semi-autos. Have had 1 SP fail to ignite in my revolver, however.
That seems kind of backwards unless both of you have trigger jobs in your .38s that are causing light hammer strikes. Don't hammer fired guns usually have an easier time igniting hard primers than striker fired ones? I'll be trying these in .38spl as well...eventually.
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